Category: Amdo Tibet

Amdo Tibet

The region of Amdo Tibet lies on the North Eastern part of the plateau known today as the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It covers a large part of present day Qinghai Province as well as the adjoining parts of Sichuan and Gansu Provinces. This distinct region of Tibet lies the farthest away from Lhasa and is still primarily characterized as nomadic, especially throughout the prefectures of Golog (Golok), Huangnan, Hainan, Aba, and Gannan. Nomadic communities are spread across this vast area yet, unlike Kham Tibet, maintain a common dialect throughout. Amdo herdsmen fit the stereotypical image many people have of Tibetans as nomads, and the Golog tribe of southern Amdo are renowned as the most wild even by Tibetans themselves.

The Amdo Tibetans are unified by their relatively similar forms of the language, mainly based on archaic nomad dialects that seem to have changed relatively little over the centuries. Today the Amdo claim the highest levels of Tibetan literacy and are proud of their scholars both lay and monastic. Relative to Kham Tibet, this region is less mountainous with vast grasslands that are painted in green throughout the summer months while herds of yak and sheep graze under the care of shepherds. Winter brings an especially desperate environment to this part of the Tibetan plateau with low temperatures mixed with relentless winds.

The Chinese cities of Chengdu, Lanzhou, and Xining are the main gateway cities to Amdo Tibet. From these three cities there is convenient access to much of the region via land or air. Public buses are more comfortable than most people think these days, and if you are traveling in a group it is very economical to hire a private vehicle. Your guesthouse or hotel should be able to assist with arranging your ground transport depending on your needs. Airports are also conveniently located in Jiuzhaigou, Xiahe (Labrang), and Hongyuan.

Diebu ( Tewu) County

Diebu county (or “Tewu” “ཐེ་བོ་རྫོང་།” in Tibetan) is one of seven counties located in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is primarily a forested region comprising of a diversity of wildlife, peaceful Tibetan villages, and beautiful mountains. The population of Diebu county is around 60,000. It is 2,300 meters above sea level. In Diebu, the mud-sided, wood-frame houses are made with a style unique from other Tibetan areas. You can easily spend a few days in this area following jungle trails, discovering small villages, and exploring local Buddhist temples.

Top things to do in Diebu

You won’t have a hard time finding a place to stay in Diebu. There are many clean and friendly hotels at acceptable prices. Out of all of them, Luoke Inn is one of the best. It’s in a good location and has a great view of the mountain. Their rooms are comfortable and clean. There is a variety of restaurants in Diebu, offering Tibetan, Han Chinese, or Muslim food. Diebu is famous for its organic pork and wild vegetables. Make sure you try some. The Muslim noodle restaurant in town makes the best fried-noodles. Don’t miss it.

Muslim Noodle In Diebu County Town

Zhagana Rock Mountain

Zhagana is just 30km away from Diebu county town, though its altitude of 3,400 meters is significantly higher than Diebu. If you have any negative high-altitude symptoms in Zhagana, you can always quickly descend back to Diebu.

The View of Zhagana

The Lazikou Pass—Mao’s Last Obstacle

The Lazikou Mountain Pass (about 90km from Tiebu), carries great historical significance. During the Red Army’s Long March, after their crossing of the Zoige (Ruoergai) Marsh grasslands, Lazikou was the last major obstacle for Chairman Mao and his force before reaching northern Gansu. The pass had been fortified with blockades by the Kuomintang Army. It was finally taken by mountaineers led by Yang Chengdu on Sep 16, 1935. If you are at all interested in Chinese history, the Lazikou Pass is an extraordinary place to visit.

The Lazikou Mountain Pass

Bon and Buddhist Monasteries

There are some quaint Tibetan Buddhist and Bon monasteries around the Diebu area. The Baxi Danka Monastery dates back to 1257; it was founded by Master Rangpa in the Gelug tradition. Zuotsang Monastery is a newer Bon monastery that was founded in 1981. Originally, Bon is a Tibetan religion and many Tibetans still practice it and keep its traditions going. There are a few very ancient Bon monasteries in Diebu that were built during the Tubo Kingdom.

A Monk Doing Kora at A Bon Monastery

June 10, 2019
Luqu County

Luqu county ( ཀླུ་ཆུ་རྫོང་། in Tibetan) is an administrative district and one of seven counties of Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Luqu is 3,500-meters-high grassland home.

For a significant part of the year in Luqu, Tibetans still live in traditional nomad tents. However, more and more of them are being resettled in government-provided, concrete villages. This region of the Tibetan plateau is one of the best places to visit if you are interested in the Tibetan nomadic culture and lifestyle.

Nowadays, it’s easy to get to Luqu. Xiahe airport is only 45 km away and road conditions are very good. There is a highway from Lanzhou city to Hezuo. And from Hezuo to Luqu is a well-kept National road. It takes a total of four and a half hours to get from Lanzhou to Luqu.

Things to do in Luqu

Tibetan Dance Competition 

In 2014, Luqu county town was recognized as “the Homeland of the Guozhuo Dance.” Every August thousands of Tibetans from different regions gather in Luqu to take part in the annual Tibetan dance competition.

Tibetan Dance Performance In Luqu County

ZeCha Scenic Area

ZeCha Scenic Area is the most popular destination in the Luqu region. In 1998, it was recognized as a national treasure and made a nature reserve by the central government. It is around 50 km from town and is roughly 22 km long. Grasslands, forests, and stone outcroppings dapple the stunning landscape. There is a local Tibetan village in the area that offers food, accommodation, and horse riding.

Zecha Scenery In Luqu County

Langmu Monasteries

Langmusi is a village on the border of Sichuan and Gansu Province. The mountains here are ideal for hiking and horse trekking. You’ll notice that Langmusi is a very inclusive and friendly place. The two Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in town are the Gansu Serti Monastery and the Sichuan Kirti Monastery. Both monasteries have distinctions that make both well worth a visit.

The Gansu Serti monastery still practices the traditional Tibetan sky burial. Unlike some sky burial locations, this one is open for visitors to come and view. Bodies are first prayed over then chopped up by a man with a large ax. He then calls the vultures to come and eat the remains. Please respect the local culture and refrain from taking pictures or speaking loudly.

Langmu Monastery in Luqu county

Getting to Langmusi

Langmusi is only 89 km from Luqu and takes about an hour and fifteen minutes by bus. There is a bus from Luqu every day. Go to the Luqu bus station to find more information. For a bit more money, you can also hire a small van. Departing Langmusi is also easy. There are regular buses to Zoige, Xiahe, and Hezuo near the Langmusi hotel.

May 10, 2019
Maqu County

In Southwestern Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Region (Gansu Province) you’ll find a gem of Tibetan nomad culture and history—Maqu County. རྨ་ཆུ་རྫོང་། in Tibetan. ) Maqu is named after the Yellow River (it literally means “Yellow River” in Tibetan). It is located at the first bend of the Yellow River, whose abundant resource of nutrient-rich water makes the Maqu Grasslands the most beautiful wetlands in China.

More than 60,000 people reside in Maqu, ninety percent of whom are Tibetans who still live a fairly traditional nomadic lifestyle. In fact, Maqu is probably one of the best destinations to visit if you are interested in witnessing the authentic lifestyle of nomad Tibetans. That said, don’t go in winter! May to October is the best time to travel as the sun and the tents are out in all their glory. Also, make your way up to Maqu slowly. The average altitude is a head-spinning 3,700 meters (12,200 feet) above sea level.

Top Things to do in Maqu 

The No. 1 Bridge on Yellow River

The Yellow River is the second longest river in China. It is reverently regarded as the mother of the Han civilization. The 270 meter-long Number 1 Bridge was built in the upper reaches of the Yellow River in 1979 and offers a gorgeous view of both the sunset and sunrise.

The Yellow River In Maqu County

Gesar Horse Racing festival

The Gesar Horse Racing Festival is held in Maqu County around the middle of August. The festival is not only about horse racing, but also performing Tibetan dances and songs. On August 13th, 2017, more than 600 competitors from different Tibetan areas gathered in Maqu for the dance-off. During the three-day festival, local Tibetans set up their tents, cook delicious Tibetan food, dress up in beautiful local Tibetan dress, reunite with family, and enjoy picnicking.

Horses on grassland

Angwang Cang Wetland Park

Angwang Cang Wetland Park is 57 kilometers away from Maqu. Drive there in the morning and have lunch with nomads. Explore the park in the afternoon and as dusk sets in find a good spot to enjoy the sunset.

The Wetland Park in Maqu County

How to get to Maqu

Xiahe airport to Maqu: 140 km, 2 hours 20 minutes by bus.

Lanzhou city to Maqu: 398 km, 5 hours and 25 minutes by bus.

Langmusi to Maqu: 88 km, 1 hour and 40 minutes by bus.

Xiahe County to Maqu: 197 km, 3 hours and 15 minutes by bus.

April 29, 2019
Geji Nyima Tribe Homestay

Two and a half hours north of Chengdu, there is a valley. In that valley, there is a village. And in that village, there are nearly 200 Tibetan families. Most of those families open their homes to travelers. One of the best that we’ve found is the Geji Nyma Tribe Homestay. The village is Ganbao Tibetan Village and it’s located between Wenchuan and Lixian, 20 minutes away from Tao Ping Qiang Village. At 192 km from Chengdu, it is the nearest Tibetan village to the city.

Inside Geji Nyima Tribe Homestay

Your Helpful And Knowledgeable Host

Geji Nyima Tribe Homestay is one that our travel company (Extravagant Yak) frequently uses. It was opened by a Tibetan family in 2006. The husband teaches at a local primary school. He is extremely knowledgeable about the local Tibetan history and even wrote an introduction to the village’s history and culture for visitors. He offers village tours to guests. If you want a better view of the valley, take one of the hiking trails around the village. In the fall, experience farm life by helping the family bring in the harvest. You’ll have to really push to lend a helping hand because culturally they have a hard time allowing guests to lift a finger.

Join In The Dance!

The homestay can house around 25 people. Rooms are clean and comfortable, and each room has its own bathroom. It’s easy to explore the surrounding area as the homestay is next to the village square, the stupa, and the market. If you’d like, your host can also arrange a local traditional dance if you want to learn Tibetan dancing in the evening. Local women show up in beautiful traditional dresses. Be careful, they’ll pull you in if you show the slightest interest in dancing! Don’t be shy. You only live once.

Stupa and prayer Wheel Nearby Geji Nyima Tribe Homestay

The Price Includes Laughter

For 120 per night per person, you get a cozy room and two meals a day (breakfast and dinner). Here, the food is completely ORGANIC. They make both local Tibetan and Chinese food, but make sure you try the butter momos at least once—they’re very popular with guests. And jump in on the momo-making process. You’ll at least facilitate good laughs all around.

Ganbao Tibetan village is a quick getaway from the high-paced life of the big city. We highly recommend the warm welcome, the great fun, and the delicious food you can find at Geji Nyima Tribe Homestay.

Ganbao Tibetan Village

Contact Info:

Address: Ganbao Village, Li Xian County, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan Province.

地址：四川省阿坝藏族羌族自治州理县甘堡藏寨

Phone: 13540997282

April 24, 2019
Zhuoni – Jonê

Zhuoni (卓尼）is the Chinese name for the Tibetan county of Jonê（ཅོ་ནེ།） located 2,500 meters above sea level in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu province. With over 100,000 people, Jonê is a mix of Tibetan, Han Chinese, Hui, Miao, and Tu minorities. Yet, the majority (70%) is Tibetan.

The History of the Kingdom of Jonê

Historically, the people of Zhouni (Jonê) were ruled by a chiefdom (“Jonê Gyabo” in Tibetan; “Zhuoni Tusi” in Chinese). The Gatsang family established the Jonê Kingdom in the fifteenth century. At the time, the Ming dynasty emperor of China recognized Chief Gatsang as the authorized ruler of Jonê and gave him the Chinese surname Yang. To this day, many Tibetan families in this area have the Yang surname. The Yangs ruled Jonê until 1949.

Summer in Jonê County

Jonê Monastery

The predominant religion of Zhouni ( Jonê) is Tibetan Buddhism. The six Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the region all follow the Gelug tradition. On a hillside half a kilometer northwest of the county seat sits Jonê Monastery. As one of the oldest monasteries in Amdo Tibet, it was originally founded in 1269 by Drogon Ghogyel Phakpa in the Shakya sect. Shortly after the birth of the Gelug sect by Tsongkhapa, the Jonê Monastery became a Gelug monastery (in 1459) and was led by the Gelug master Renqing Lunpo. Unfortunately Jonê Monastery was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but was later rebuilt. At one point, it housed over 5,000 monks. Today, there are only 200.

Jonê County Seat

Cheba Valley

Quaint Tibetan villages pop up along the road that winds through the beautiful Cheba valley. People here make a living from both farming and raising livestock. The youth herd yaks, sheep, and horses in the pasture, while the elderly tend farms. Houses in the Cheba valley are built with wood and are closely connected to defend against thieves and invaders. Nyiba is the largest village in the valley with over 300 households (in Tibetan, Nyiba means “sunny slope”).

One of the Villages in Cheba Valley

Traditional Tibetan Dress In Cheba Valley

Dayu Valley

The Dayu Valley is an eco-tourism area. Nine gullies come together and form a spectacular landscape. Dayu is not a well-known tourism destination (far lesser-known than nearby JiuZhaiGou), but it still offers an abundance of fascinating places to visit. Primitive forests, mountains, rivers, ancient temples, and grasslands are abundant. You can walk and hike to your heart’s content. One trail will take you on a four to five-hour adventure. If that’s too long, there is a shorter trail that is less than half the distance. Wood cabins inside the valley offer cozy accommodation where you can spend a night or two. Entrance tickets are 68 RMB per person. The average elevation of the valley is around 2,500 meters.

Inside Dayu Valley

April 18, 2019
Zhagana
Zhagana, “Rock Box”
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Zhagana བྲག་སྒམ་ནང་། in Tibetan )
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Zhagana is in Yiwa Township, Tiewu County, Gannan (Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture), Gansu province. It’s mountain regions on the northeastern rim of the Tibetan plateau, with an average altitude of 3,200 meters. Zhagana means “Rock Box” in Tibetan language, which is fitting as it is surrounded by large rocky spires on all sides. Lush, verdant villages fill the space between the mountains. The morning sun reveals the beauty beneath the rocky surface of the mountains. When the clouds come in, a different kind of beauty emerges. The rocky mountain fortress has historically segregated this precious place, but it also bestows pride to the community within, as it continually communicates what they have is special and ought to be protected. Something deeply mystical and almost magical glitters on the surface of this hidden land. To pay homage to the beauty of this natural setting, the residents burn incense. They believe in and practice a harmonious existence between mankind and nature.

Lush Valley

The stunning landscape, primitive forest, local Tibetan villages and unique culture will make you feel you never want to leave. The locals really haven’t for thousands of years. People do both farming and pasturing work in Zhagana. The best season to visit is from May to October. Summer is the best time to go as everything turns to green and flowers bloom. In autumn, you can find people harvesting in the fields and also witness the changing colors of the trees. Breathtaking.

Hiking Trails

It’s only been a few years since Zhagana has been open for tourists. Visitors must pay a 20RMB entrance fee to go in and explore the village. Local Tibetan people provide homestays and guesthouses for visitors to experience the authentic culture. Zhagana is also an ideal place to hike. Many hiking trails have been developed to enjoy and explore the beautiful vistas. Hike to the monastery if you are interested in knowing more about Tibetan Buddhism, or if you love taking photos, hike to the top village and get the whole view of Zhagana from there.

The altitude in Zhagana is 3,000 to 3,300 meters (9,800 to 11,000 feet) above sea level. To prevent altitude sickness, remember to drink lots of water and not over-exert yourself. However, if you do feel severe symptoms of altitude sickness, the quickest way down is to return to Diebu County (only 34 km away).

Zhagana is a must-stay if you are headed to Eastern Tibet’s Amdo region. If you are anywhere in the neighborhood of Labrang monastery, Langmusi monastery or Zogi grassland, make sure you add Zhagana to your itinerary!
April 4, 2018
Zö ( Hezuo)

A lot Packed into Two Letters

Zö (གཙོས་) means “antelope” in Tibetan. It also signifies the city of Zö (or Hezuo in Chinese). As the capitol of Gannan Tibet Autonomous Prefecture, Zö is naturally the economic, political, educational, and cultural center of the prefecture. Zö lies on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan plateau at an average elevation of 3,000 meters. In 2015, its population was 90,000 people and it represented 24 ethnic groups. The vast majority of residents, however, are Tibetan.

Good lodging and great dining are easy to find in Zö. Want good entertainment? You’re in luck. Zö is home to the largest Tibetan opera theater in Gannan Prefecture. If you want to see professionals dance and sing in traditional Tibetan performances, make sure you go to the opera in town. It is open nightly, except in the winter season. Remarkably, the opera troupe from Zo performed in Israel in December 2017.

Gannan Breakdown

Gannan Tibet Autonomous Prefecture was founded in 1953 with seven counties and one city. Those counties are Lintan county ( Tibetan:ལིན་ཐན་རྫོང་།, Chinese:临潭县), Jonê county ( Tibetan:ཅོ་ནེ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 卓尼县, Luqu county ( Tibetan:ཀླུ་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese: Luqu 碌曲县), Maqu county ( Tibetan:རྨ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།, Chinese: 玛曲县), Tewo county( Tibetan: ཐེ་བོ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 迭部县)，Zhouqu county ( Tibetan: འབྲུག་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 舟曲县), and Xiahe county ( Tibetan: བསང་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese:夏河县) with Hezuo (Zö གཙོས་གྲོང་ཁྱེར) being the city.

Zö – Hezuo Century Square

Right in the middle of the city, as in many other Chinese places, is a town square. Hezuo Century Square was built in 2000 and has become the cultural and communal heart of the city. People gather there in the morning for exercise. Local shows and other forms of entertainment pop up in the square from time to time. Most importantly, every evening at 7:00 pm people of all ages come to the square to dance the traditional Tibetan circle dance. Anyone can jump in.

Milarepa Fame

The famous Milarepa Temple towers above the main road toward Xiahe, about two kilometers from the bus station. Milarepa lived in the twelfth century and stands out among Tibet’s most famous Buddhist teachers (of the Kagyu tradition). The temple in his name was built in 1777. It was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but was rebuilt in 1988. Each of its nine floors displays many varieties of Buddhist statues, deities, and scriptures. Local Tibetans circumambulate the temple daily.

Gansu Normal University for Nationalities is located in southwest Zo, about two kilometers from the center of the city. Founded in 1984, the university is renowned for its beauty. Presently, there are over 10,000 students and 700 faculty.

April 4, 2018
Mtsho khra khrap （Flower Lake）

Officially known as Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve, this area is commonly known in Chinese as Hua Hu which literally translates: Mtsho khra khrap (མཚོ་ཁྲ་ཁྲབ།) In Tibetan. We call it Flower Lake in English. The name comes from the flower shape of the lake, not because it holds an abundance of blooming flowers (a common misconception). Regardless, walking the boardwalk around the marsh leading to the lake itself, travellers are taken with the beauty that is Flower Lake.
Located at an altitude of 3,600 meters above sea level, Flower Lake is the largest plateau marshland in the world, and was officially recognized in 1988 as a national nature reserve. Watching the sky reflect off of the lake in contrast to the colour of the reeds, is part of what makes Flower Lake so popular to visit.

The road to flower lake

The Wildlife

When visiting Flower Lake, keep your eyes open for the wildlife. This marshland is home to several endangered species, and it was recognized in 2005 as the homeland of the Black-Necked Crane. Bird watchers may also spot the red-crowned crane, white crane, swans, and yellow ducks. Other animals within the park include the lake’s fish, and the livestock belonging to the nomads.

Getting There

Flower lake is located approximately halfway between Ruoergai County Town and Langmu Monastery, making this a convenient stop for travellers. When heading north out of Ruoergai, it is approximately a half hour drive with visitors choosing to take the bus, taxi, or private vehicle to get there.

A sawn in the flower lake

Visiting Flower Lake

Once at the entrance to the nature reserve, the entrance price is ¥101 during peak season (May – mid October), while it is only ¥30 the rest of the year. Even though it is more expensive, the recommended time to visit Flower Lake is June-October, as the winter months see the marshes covered in snow. In the summer months the marsh reeds are a luscious green, while in the fall the reeds turn golden yellow with the colder weather.

Once inside the park you will load onto a bus (paid for with your entrance ticket), and drive about 10 minutes until you reach the boardwalk stretching out over the marshland. The boardwalk is fairly wide and well maintained making this site easy to visit. However, the majority of the boardwalk has no railing over the deep marsh water, so parents will want to watch their small children. For travellers with mobility issues, barring the elevated observation platforms, there are only a couple of small steps scattered throughout the boardwalk.

Flower lake is a nice place to experience the beauty of nature

Flower Lake Nature Reserve is open for guests from 6:30am-7:00pm year round. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds, as this is a popular scenic spot for national tourists. By visiting in the morning, you will also avoid the heat of the afternoon sun (although you should still be prepared for the weather).

September 1, 2016
Erdaohai Lake

Located just outside of Songpan in the Mounigou Gulley Scenic Area is the breathtaking Erdaohai Lake. While this is not the only lake or scenic spot located in the park, it is one of the two most famous places in the Mounigou Gulley, ensuring the park is known by this name (The other park in Mounigou Gulley is Zhaga Waterfall.)
Known for its stunning colour, this lake is set at an altitude of 3,385 meters above sea level and covers an area of approximately 16,027 square meters. With karst caves located underneath, the plateau sink-lake is fed by the surging undercurrent. At its deepest point the lake is approximately 28 meters deep, and it is this changing depth of the mountain water that gives the lake its vibrant and shifting colours. Located at such a high elevation, the lake not only reflects the forest around its edges, but the living sky above.

One of the beautiful lakes in Erdaohai

Other Attractions Within the Park

In Erdaohai Park, there are actually a number of different lakes/pools that guests like to visit. Each of the lakes or pools is a different colour, and the sparkling clear mountain water displays the interesting elements of each place. This includes: Lovers Emerald Pool, Jade Lake, Toudaohai Lake, Swan Lake, Singing Spring, the Travertine Annual Rings, Jade-Dropping Pool, Grass Lake, and Hot Spring Lake.

Besides these, one of the lakes is known for the algae that grows in it that looks like the branches of a pine tree, while at another point in the park there is an actual pine tree that seems to grow straight out of a rock face. Also, worth spotting amongst the trees is the Karast Cave Group, with several of the caves extending deep into the earth. No matter where you look the park is beautiful with the forest, wildflowers, occasional animal, and the wide open sky.

Inside Erdaohai Lake

Getting There

When going to Erdaohai Lake, your best option is to take a taxi or private vehicle out of the town. We took a taxi, and for the price quoted us, he was willing to wait for us for the three hours we wanted to spend in the park. At the time of writing, the entrance ticket to Erdaohai Lake cost ¥70, but to see the stunning colour of each of the lakes is well worth it.

Inside Erdaohai Lake

Once inside Erdaohai Lake, the walk will take approximately 2-3 hours depending on the speed at which you want to walk and the amount of times you stop to take in the view. The lakes themselves are set further back into the park with the first appearing after about 15 minutes of walking.

A smooth wooden boardwalk leads visitors through the park making it a nice walk, however, for those with mobility issues, there are a number of steps in the park. Essentially the park tours a mountain side, so the height of the terrain changes as you go further in, but the boardwalk takes it from being a hike to a walk. When walking in the park, you will come to a couple of forks in the road, however, the entire park is set up as a loop, so by taking one road over the other, you aren’t actually missing anything.

Beautiful view from inside Erdaohai lake

If you walk right to the back of the park, guests are rewarded with a hot spring in which you may choose to dip your feet for a few minutes. However, don’t be surprised: the hot spring might not be as “hot” as you expect. The spring deserves this title because it never dips below 10°C in a year, which at the elevation is significant enough to differentiate it from the surrounding lakes. (To the amusement of those who sat at the pool longer, we saw more than one guest startle at their initial test of the water.)

When visiting the park, dress for the weather, and make sure you bring a water bottle. There are gazebos and benches scattered throughout the park if you want to enjoy a picnic lunch, but to do so will require you to bring the food with you from town as there is no place to buy it there.

Prayer flags in Erdaohai Lake

September 1, 2016
Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Driving about an hour and a half north of Aba town, travellers are rewarded with the spectacular views to be found at the Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain (གཉན་པོ་གཡུ་རྩེ།) Scenic Area. With a mountain range surrounding a large lake, the air here feels clear and pure. The area surrounding the Lianbaoyeze Mountain is a scenic park, meaning there are a couple of things to see and do.
Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

The mountain itself is considered holy due to its Tibetan folklore history. The holy mountain is described as having a front gate, and doors on four sides. Each door and side of the gate has a different god associated with it making this mountain the home of six divinities. It is said that to the left of the gate is “Layagawu” (a white divine cattle), with the right being “Jiashidamawu” (a red divine tiger). Meanwhile, the gods of the doors are “Pawengzhiyu” in the north (a cubic magic stone), “Kecainangqian” in the south (an elephant), “Lawengtuoga” to the east (a white-forehead mountain divinity), and “Zhayisecha” to the west (a gold-armored mountain deity).

It also seems that wherever you go in Tibet the epic of King Gesar has a local legend. The Lianbaoyeze area is no different, as the stories say that the area was King Gesar’s battlefield.

A stupa in Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Zhagaercuo Lake

According to the local who took us, there are approximately 360 lakes on this mountain, with Zhagaercuo being just one of them. This lake lies at an elevation of 4,200 meters, and the beautiful clear water occupies 3 square kilometers. Zhagaercuo Lake is hidden from the road when you approach, but after an approximately 20-minute walk on the recently built boardwalk, this stunning highland lake comes into view. (Note: This includes several flights of stairs, and due to the elevation, it may take you longer as you catch your breath).

Zhagarecuo Lake in Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Other Activities

There is space within the grounds of the park to camp alongside the river, or there are a few guest houses at the base of the mountain. If you wish to hike or walk, there is a trail that runs alongside the river from the park entrance to the base of the mountain (at which point it turns into the previously mentioned boardwalk). There are also new roads being built in this park, meaning that new scenic locations are becoming accessible to visitors all the time.

Getting There

The drive to Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain Scenic Area takes about an hour and a half from the town of Aba. As there are no buses running to this area, your best option is a private vehicle hire. While this may seem a bit out of the way, the trip is well worth it.

September 1, 2016
Ngawa (Aba)

Located in the Northwest of Sichuan Province at an elevation of 3,200 meters above sea level is the town of Ngawa (རྔ་བ་རྫོང།), also known as Aba (阿坝县) in Chinese. Aba is located on the Tibetan plateau, and the town is the seat of Ngawa (Aba) County. The city holds a population of approximately 20,000 people, with 8,000 of them being monks.
Things to See in and around Aba Town

In the city and surrounding area there are 37 monasteries between both Tibetan Buddhism and the traditional Bon religion. Four of the most easily accessed monasteries (Tibetan: gompa) are Kirti Gompa, Setenling Gompa, Nangzhik Gompa, and Topgyel Gompa. Also worth a visit is the nearby Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area about 40 minutes drive from the city.

Kirti Gompa

Also known as Gerdeng Monastery, the full name for this monastery is Kirti Kalari Gon Tashi Lhundrub. A disciple of Tsongkhapa – Rongpa Chenakpa – founded the monastery in 1472 on the northwestern edge of Aba town. This monastery belongs to Tibetan Buddhism’s Gelugpa sect and houses approximately 2,500 monks today. When visiting, the beautiful yellow colouring of the monastery is visible in the distance, which will let you know you have arrived.

Kirti Monastery in Aba

Setenling Gompa

This monastery belongs to the Jonangpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and is about a kilometer from the eastern end of town (follow the main road straight out). Founded in the 13^th and 14^th century by Namnang Dorje, it was reconstituted in the end of the 19^th century by Dro-ge Yonten Gyatso. This monastery is a little more confusing to get inside than Kirti Gompa, and once inside if the temple is not open, there is a phone number to call to request access.

Nangzhik Gompa and Topgyel Gompa

Belonging to the ancient Tibetan religion of Bon, these two monasteries are located just outside of Aba. Estimates say there are between 800 to 1000 monks associated with these two locations. Nangzhik is about a 4 km walk up a hill on the north of town, while Topgyel holds a large stupa on a mountain to the east of Aba. Nangzhik Gompa is said to be the biggest Bon monastery in all of Tibet.

Stupa and prayer flags in Aba

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area

There is no bus running to this mountain, so a private vehicle rental is the way to go. The drive is approximately 60kms, making this a reasonable trip, but one that is well worth it for the view and the opportunity to walk the nature. If you happen to go to the mountain on a clear day, your photos will be spectacular.

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains in Aba

Horse Race Festival

The Aba Horse Race Festival takes place in the middle of July in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. Enjoy the festive atmosphere, and watch the locals participate in a little good natured competition.

Going There and Getting Around

Aba town is the transport hub of the county, with the most common way to travel to Aba being by bus. Some of the daily long haul bus routes running to and from Aba town include Chengdu (344km), Hongyuan/Mewa (157km), and Maerkang/Barkham (254km). Other buses include Mianyang City, Songpan County, Jinchuan County, Wenchuan County, Heishui County, and Xiangtang County.

Wherever you come from, on the drive into town, don’t miss the scenery as you drive past nomads and their yak herds, tent hotels, and the green grasslands.

Once in town it is fairly easy to walk around as it is not too big, however, to walk the full length of town is a significantly long walk. The bus station is located on the main road, so if you arrive this way, getting to the heart of Aba is very easy. Taxis and three-wheelers are available, and due to the size of the town, getting anywhere in one shouldn’t cost you very much.

View from Kirti Gompa in Aba

Things to Know

Due to the elevation on the plateau, even in the midst of summer, it is likely you will need clothes for cooler temperatures and potentially some rain. Yet, when the sun is out, the elevation makes it fairly strong, so sunscreen is a recommended packing list item. It is also good to remember that this town is located at 3,200 meters, so if you are coming directly from a low-lying area (such as Chengdu), your body will need some time to adjust to the elevation.

September 1, 2016
Datshe Khupa (Yueliangwan)

Located just outside of Hong Yuan in the Amdo Tibetan region in Sichuan, one can find the scenic area known as Yueliangwan in Chinese, ཟླ་ཚེས་ཁུག་པ། in Tibetan. Moon Bay in English. The Chinese call this place Yueliangwan, while the Tibetan’s know it as Datsikhepa. Aptly named for the shape the river has formed through the grassland plateau, visitors to this place come to enjoy the vibrant colours of the grass and sky, while watching the grazing herds of yaks and cattle.

Moon Bay sits at an elevation of approximately 3,470 meters above sea level, and the bay itself is actually the snaking White River. This river drains into the headwaters of the Yellow River.

Looking out across the grasslands from the platform on the hill, one can see the scars on the land where the river has changed direction over the years, and it is these distinctive topographical features zigzagging back and forth that draw visitors to this area to see the natural beauty. This area is known for it’s nomads, making this a great place to snap a photo of the traditional black tent, or a grazing herd of yaks.

Inside Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Active Things to do at Moon Bay

While the primary reason for travellers to go to Moon Bay is to see the beauty of the grasslands, a few resourceful locals have banded together to provide other activities for visitors as well. Located at this place there are three main activities that the adventurous may like to try.

Horse Riding

If you dream of riding a horse on the Tibetan Plateau, a group of local nomads bring their horses saddled up and ready to ride. The cost for this is ¥50, but be warned, as far as we could tell, they simply lead you in around a pre-determined path. If you are interested, choose for yourself whether or not the ride is worth the price (there are a lot of other options for this in the area).

Horse riding area Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Zip-Lining

If you want to soar over the grasslands, there is a zip line running from the observation platform to the opposite hill. Trying this ride out will set you back ¥40, but it seemed quite popular. The entire time we were there, the line was in use.

Rafting

If you would rather paddle Moon Bay, there is a boat launch hidden around the corner from the main observation platform (head past the tents selling food). Renting a raft for multiple people costs ¥60. Rafters are launched into the river at the start of the bay, and a boom across the river will catch you in order to unload at the other end.

Rafting area in Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Getting There

Located only 3 kilometers from Hong Yuan, head west out of town and take the right at the first fork in the road. There are several convenient options for getting to Moon Bay. A taxi cost us ¥25 one way, and we walked back to town in approximately 45 minutes. Walking back towards town is downhill, so going there may take you a little longer. There would also be the option of renting a private vehicle if you wish.

In order to see the grasslands at their prime beauty, the recommend time for visiting is between the months of June and September. While you can visit in the winter, the grasslands are covered in snow and the bay is frozen over. On the other hand, in the summer months, wild flowers bloom in the plateau, and the yaks have their calves underfoot.

Wear your sunscreen as the sun at this elevation is strong, but also be prepared for the cool breeze that can blow across the plateau. Don’t forget your camera, as this place presents wonderful opportunities for photos – be it as a backdrop for you and your travelling companions, or as the subject itself. Finally, we recommend that you pack a lunch with you, and take the opportunity to picnic on the Roof of the World.

beautiful green grassland in Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

September 1, 2016
Zoigê (Ruoergai)

The county town of Zoigê (མཛོད་དགེ་རྫོང་།)is located in the Amdo Tibetan region of Sichuan. Known for its Tibetan Nomads, Flower Lake, the Hequ horse, and more, this is a popular place for travellers wishing to see the Tibetan Plateau.Ruoergai (若尔盖) in Chinese.
Things to Visit Around Ruoergai

Flower Lake

Located a half hour drive north of Ruoergai, one can find the Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve. Commonly known in Chinese as Hua Hu, the literal translation is Flower Lake. This marshland is known for the flower shape of the lake (although it does flower in summer), it’s wildlife, and the view of the reeds poking up through the lake. The wildlife includes several endangered species, and is officially the homeland of the black-necked crane.

Yellow River’s First Bend

Affectionately known as the Mother River of China, the Yellow River is the second largest river in the PRC. Located on the border between the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the first turn in the Yellow River is a well traversed scenic spot located to the west of the town.

Flower lake in Ruoergai

Daza Temple

Officially know as Daza Temple of the Propitious & Goodness, this temple is located in the Northeast of Ruoergai town. Founded during the Qing Dynasty, today this temple belongs to the Gelugpa Sect with travellers coming to marvel at the architecture and cultural relics. Tours are available in Chinese and English for visitors.

Teiwu Valley

This valley is not as well known as some of the other scenic spots in Ruoergai County, but this is simply because it has yet to be discovered by mainstream tourism. Known as being the “Homeland of Deer”, this valley is a tranquil place to visit.

Daza Monastery in Ruoergai

Langmu Monasteries

Located on the border of the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the Kirit Gompa belongs to the county of Ruoergai, while the Girti monastery belongs to Gansu. While this town is small, with almost a third of the population coming from the resident monks at the monastery alone, if you find yourself in Ruoergai, it is well worth the visit.

Getting There

When visiting Ruoergai, there are busses running to the area daily, with a bus from Chengdu (a gateway city to the Tibetan regions) taking approximately 12 hours. If you are not starting in Ruoergai, but rather it is simply a stop on your journey, bus or private vehicles are fairly easy to arrange from place to place.

On the other hand, if you choose to fly, there are airports located in Shaqu, Jiuzhaigou, or Hong Yuan, from which travelling by vehicle is not too difficult. (Depending on which airport you travel to will determine if a taxi or private vehicle hire is more economical).

Ruoergai Grassland

September 1, 2016
Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Located 8 kilometers outside of the prefectural capital of Maerkang lies the sleepy Rgyalrong Tibetan town of Zhuokeji. Follow the signs to the Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor and take a step back in time as you explore this village to get a feel for ancient Tibetan lifestyle, art, and architecture.

The History

Originally built in 1286, the village was destroyed by fire in 1936. However, instead of losing such a precious cultural site, the 16^th chieftain rebuilt the village in 1938 at the original site. As the chieftain was the highest official in charge of political, economic, and martial power in the area, the name Zhuokeji is the word for “supremacy” in Tibetan.

The Architecture

The village covers an area of 5,400 square meters, with the main building (the chieftain’s residence) built as a six story manor surrounding a central courtyard. This building has 63 rooms, with each room presenting an aspect of Tibetan lifestyle during the chieftains’ time. Set in the North at the back of the courtyard, rises six stories of the main building, with a five story wing on both the east and the west of the courtyard.

The courtyard and outside stairs are made of stone, and the building is a mix between a stone walled outer shell, and a wooden interior. The carving, painting, and character in this building is wonderful, and it is little wonder that it has been turned into a museum.

Inside Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Inside Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Every floor of this building holds something different about the lifestyle of Tibet in times gone by. While the first two floors show life in the village, the top floors are dedicated to the home of the chieftain and his family, and Tibetan cultural artifacts. These artifacts include silverwork, clothing, and Tibetan Opera costumes. Also on the upper floors are a few Buddhist temples, and a dinning hall for the monks.

Going There

Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor is located at the top of a hill overlooking the city, so be prepared to climb a few stairs to reach the museum. These stairs are wide and easy, but it is the stairs inside to be careful on as the traditional Tibetan staircase is quite steep with narrow steeps.

The entrance fee to get inside the Chieftain’s residence was ¥60 (at the time of writing), and surrounding the main building itself is a wonderful town that you will want to wander at least briefly.

September 1, 2016
TurJe Chen Po (Guanyin Temple)

Located in the Jinchuan County of the Rgyalrong Tibetan Region, one will find the TurJe Chen Po(ཁྲོ་སྐྱབས་ཐུགས་རྗེ་ཆེན་པོ།). Known in Chinese as Guanyin Temple（观音庙）, this is the most pilgrimaged site in Amdo Tibet. The monastery is located at the top of Guanyin Mountain, and overlooks the Checen River as it flows through Guanyin Town.
History of the Guanyin Temple

In the 7^th century A.D. Rgyalrong Tibetan Region there were 18 Tusi Kings. At this time, the Guanyin Temple originally belonged to the Tshoscap King. Now the monastery is run by the Checen (Jinchuan) sect instead.

In recent years the monastery has been renovated and expanded upon. At the monastery today, one will find Guanyin Temple, Lotus Hall (all three layers of it), a restaurant, a bookstore, and more. The road up the side of the mountain has also recently been widened and repaved, making the journey a little less hair-raising for guests.

Every year, people come from Amdo, Kham, and sometimes even Lhasa to visit the Guanyin Temple. For some, this is a pilgrimage that begins in their hometown and ends at the monastery, and for those particularly devoted, it will include full body prostrations the entire way. In the Tibetan Buddhist’s mind, it is held with almost the same regard as Lhasa’s famous pilgrimage site, and therefore is commonly known as “the Second Potala Palace”. (Tagong Monastery is also held with similar regard.)

The peak season for Guanyin Temple is in the winter when the locals have the time to make the pilgrimage. It is during the Spring Festival (which is actually held at the end of winter) that the monastery tends to see some of its largest crowds.

Outside Guanyin Temple (Thurje Chen po)

Getting There

Guests traveling from Maerkang to the temple can take the bus to the town of Guanyin, before making their way up the mountain to the monastery. The bus between Maerkang and Guanyin town takes approximately two hours leaving Maerkang at 7:00am, and returning from Guanyin at 3:00pm (current at the time of writing).

Once in Guanyin town, travellers have two options of actually reaching the top of Guanyin Mountain. If you choose to walk it, there are stairs leading up the mountain which cut out some of the winding back and forth that the road takes. Alternatively, from Guanyin Town, it is relatively cheap and easy to rent a car to take you up the mountain (and again back down).

Beautiful View from Guanyin Temple (TurJe Chen Po)

Visiting

When you have arrived at Guanyin Monastery, guests may respectfully participate in the religious activities if they choose. If you enter Guanyin Temple, you will be asked to remove your shoes, but Lotus Hall does not require this. There is no entrance fee for the monastery, although you will see donations inside at the altars. Feel free to take photos outside of the stunning valley, or the ornate architecture, but respect that inside the buildings others are there to worship.

Besides this aspect, guests enjoy the view from the monastery of the luscious green valley below. The trip to the top of the mountain is worth it for the breath-taking view alone! Standing on the platform down the stairs directly across from Guanyin Temple, play a little game of eye-spy to find the elephant shaped mountain or the giant prayer wheel in the midst of town.

A stupa in Guanyin Temple (TurJe Chen Po)

If you get hungry, at the bottom of the stairs to the right there is another staircase leading down to a restaurant that is reasonably priced. There is a bookstore located just past the temple if you are looking for something to remember your visit by, however, English books are in short supply.

September 1, 2016
Hong Yuan (Krhongche)

The city of Hong Yuan（红原) is located on the Tibetan Plateau in the Amdo region of Sichuan, and is also known in Tibetan as Krhongche (ཁྱུང་མཆུ།). Hong Yuan sits at an altitude of 3,400m (11,000ft.), and has a population of about 50,000 people. The town was named in 1960 by the Chinese Prime Minister Zhouenlai in memory of the Long March by the Red Army through the grasslands in the 1930s. This town is known for several things including the surrounding grasslands, nomads, and for producing yak meat and dairy products.
Things to Do in Hong Yuan

There are several things to do in and around Hong Yuan including a visit to Moon Bay, enjoying the nomadic life, and trying your coordination at the community Tibetan Dancing.

Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

The most well known of these is a visit to Moon Bay located just 3kms to the west of the town. Moon Bay is a wonderful site to see White River zigzagging its way through the grasslands filled with yak herds. Organized activities here include a zip-line, short horse rides, and rafting, while this also makes a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Beautiful Moon Bay in Hong Yuan

Nomadic Life

For those wishing to experience Nomadic Tibetan Life, there are several places in the area that have opened tent hotels and offer guests trail rides across the plateau. Those who choose to stay in one of these options do so for the sake of experiencing nomadic life complete with tent, campfires, and stars.

Tibetan Dancing

Every night all ages can be found dancing in the town square in the traditional Tibetan style. This is open to the public, and as this is a circle dance, joining in is easy. While you will get some curious smiles as you learn the steps, the dancers are friendly to those willing to try, so copy the person in front of you, and you will soon catch on.

Tips for the non-dancer: some of the dances are more complicated than others, so if one if proving a little too challenging, take a breather, and enjoy watching the pros. Also, if you are really struggling with the footwork, concentrate on the arms, and shuffle your way along. Otherwise, relax, enjoy yourself, and keep trying (they all learned this once too)!

Yaks grazing on the beautiful Hong Yuan Grassland.

Flower Sea

During the months of June and July visitors to Hong Yuan enjoy a visit to Flower Sea. This “sea” is actually a carpet of grassland wildflowers, and is approximately 30 minutes drive from the town.

Things to Know in Hong Yuan

When looking for a meal in town, there are two primary streets for food. While the main street (S 209 Road) holds quite a few nice restaurants, the prices here indicate they profit a bit from the tourists. If you are looking for the more reasonably price food, head over to Jiangxi Street to find the places the locals tend to frequent.

When looking down the streets of Hong Yuan, it seems that there are concrete and bricks being laid everywhere! This city appears to have had quite the facelift in recent years, making for some fairly pretty and fairly wide streets.

The river running through Hong Yuan County Town.

Getting There

Hong Yuan Airport is located 48kms southwest of the town, and is only open for certain months of the year. The exact dates of operation change slightly every year, but the rule of thumb is flights tend to only run in the summer months. This airport is fairly new as it only opened in August of 2014.

If you don’t choose to fly, one of the best ways to get into Hong Yuan is the bus which comes from most of the major towns in the area daily (Chengdu, Maerkang, Aba, Ruoergai, etc.). The bus station has just been renovated, and is conveniently located on the main road of the town.

August 19, 2016
Tsongon Po (Qinghai Lake)

Known as Qinghai Lake in Chinese (meaning Green Lake), Kokonor in Mongolian (meaning Blue Lake) and Tsongon Po (མཚོ་སྔོན་པོ།) in Tibetan (meaning Teal Sea), this largest inland saltwater lake in China is found in the Qinghai Province. Amidst the lofty mountains of Xiangpi, Datong, Riyue, and the South Mountain, Qinghai Lake is spread over an area of 4,500 square kilometers at an elevation of 3,200 meters. The natives believe Qinghai Lake is a miracle bestowed by a deity.
The vast grasslands surrounding Qinghai Lake are dotted with flocks of sheep and goats, shepherds’ tents, golden rape seed flowers, and wheat fields. The Qinghai Lake is dotted with five unique-shaped islands including the Haixin Hill, Gucha Hill, Bird Island, Haixi Hill, and Sand Island.

Bird Island (Niaodao)

To the west of the Qinghai Lake is the Niaodao, which is the ‘Kingdom of Birds’. Bird Island covers an area of 0.11 square kilometers and reaches ten meters above the lake. The island is a natural habitat for more than 100,000 birds of diverse species such as swan, gull, sandpipers, wild goose, crane, and even the rare black-necked crane. During the spring and summer months, thousands of birds from as far as Southeast Asia flock to their kingdom to breed.

Haixin Hill (Hill of the Sea Heart)

25 kilometers from the Bird Island is Haixin Hill, also known as ‘Immortal Hill’. It lies to the south of the central Qinghai Lake. Haixin Hill is covered with granite rocks, sandy soil, and vegetation. Achnatherum splendens, Kobresia, Thermopsis lancaolata, wheatgrass, and Oxytropis falcate Bunge are the common plants species found on the island. The Hill of the Sea Heart also has temples and clear springs.

Marine Life in Qinghai Lake

The Qinghai Lake is abundant in fish, especially the Huang fish reputed for being the King of the Lake by locals, and the lone alpine saltwater fish in China. In northwest China, the Qinghai Lake is the largest natural fish habitat. During the breeding season in April and May, schools of Huang fish swim to the nearby rivers to lay eggs.

The ‘Tour of Qinghai Lake’ Cycle Race

The international ‘Tour of Qinghai Lake’ Cycle Race takes place around Qinghai Lake during July and August every year. Since 2002, this event is among Asia’s top cycling events, and is known for having the highest altitude, averaging over 3,000 meters, of all the international cycling races. With twenty teams, and more than a hundred cyclists from all over the world, the race covers a distance of 1,300 kilometers and takes nine days to complete.

June 21, 2016
Rebkong (Tongren)

The town of Rebkong (རེབ་གོང་།) in the Huangnan Prefecture has much to offer travelers. Known throughout the years for its art, monasteries, agricultural and mining community, and even for its cultural revolution, visitors can spend days taking in all this historic town has to offer. While the town of Tongren is known as such in Mandarin (同仁).
Its Humble Beginnings

The town that was established around the Longwu Monastery centuries ago in 1301, and would eventually come to form an administrative system that seamlessly combined the Chinese dynastic rule of the time with Buddhism. The town and Monastery were both widely expanded upon during the Ming Dynasty and had turned what was considered a useless region, into a flourishing town mostly filled with soldiers. Today, the monastery is the home of three separate academic institutions, houses several hundred monks, and sees visitors from around the world on a daily basis.

The architecture for the monestary is full of wild colors and designs.

Beauty In Art

Longwu isn’t the only monastery nearby, nor is it the most visited. In fact, many travelers to the area prefer the Wutong Monastery because of its numerous Thangka paintings created by the monastery’s monks. While many of the original pieces were destroyed in the fallout of the Cultural Revolution, the style and beauty that once was, still lives on with the current population of artistically talented monks. Hand ground pigments and gold leaf are still used with the traditional styles that garnered this monastery’s far reaching reputation.

Authentic Items For Sale

These pieces can take anywhere from a few months to a couple years to create, and this is reflected in the price as well as their unbelievable detail. A large piece can sometimes sell for upwards of ¥50,000 (approximately $820 USD), with much smaller pieces usually selling for around ¥500 (approximately $80 USD). There is still plenty of exotic, fashionable clothing sold in the market, alongside souvenirs and local trinkets as well.

One can see the beautiful Tibetan craftsmanship in there buildings

Taking in The Culture

To really blend in with the locals, you will need to eat and play like the locals. Vendors along the streets often sell a variety of unique delicacies, with dried sheep’s head and yak butter tea being among them. For the less adventurous, freshly made yak milk yogurt can be found being sold by some vendors, and many Tibetan restaurants line the streets with more traditional foods. Roaming the streets between the sights, meals, and shopping, you can usually find a few locals gambling the day away with their own style of card and dice games, but welcoming any new players who are willing to take a chance.

Scenic Beauty

For those more interested in the Tibetan landscapes, snowcapped mountains and natural beauty that is prevalent on the Tibetan Plateau, Tongren does not cease to amaze. Within a reasonable walking distance from here, you can find breathtaking hills and grasslands; sparsely spread out on acres with mountains in the background and the common sights of sheep and yak tended to among the acres.

May 27, 2016
Sungchu (Songpan )

Located in the North of Sichuan Province, with a population over 68,000, is Sungchu (ཟུང་ཆུ). Until recently it was an agriculturally dominated community, but with an influx of foreign students and travelers to and from Huanglong, Sungchu, known in Chinese Songpan County (松潘), has added tourism to being one of its top sectors.
Songpan’s Strategic Location

Built during the Tang Dynasty and expanded during the Ming Dynasty, for many years this was an important military location. When it was established, it sat at the border of the Chinese and Tibetan empires, and at many points in history the Tibetans staged invasions into China from its strategic location.

View of the city from atop of a hill

Deep History

In 641, in order to broker a truce between the two empires, Emperor Tang offered Princess WenCheng to the Tibetan King in Songpan. There are several statues of Princess WenCheng in town which symbolize this time of peace and it is not uncommon to find many tourist admiring and taking photos. Plenty of historic sites exist as well, with much of the city’s walls still standing, including its gates.

Exploring Adventurously

The surrounding areas have much to offer – enormous valleys, rolling hills, and seemingly endless forests and guides can be found all around Songpan and its neighboring areas. Mountain bike tours of the area can take most of the day and offer access to areas too far for a hike or backpacking trip, but the options are still there. Many tourists spend more than a day or two out in the mountains, hiking and camping along the way to smaller villages filled with livestock and farming.

City street not similar to the noisy streets of major cities in Mainland China.

For the Brave

Hiking and mountain biking can get you far, but there is no better way to experience all Songpan’s beautiful landscape has to offer than with a horseback tour. Day trips and overnight treks are common and some agencies in the area offer an even more, in depth trek lasting anywhere from four to seven days with a combination of camping and sleeping in villages.

Shopping for Tourists

Shopping in a more tourist-oriented town can sometimes be tricky, as furs and hides can be fake or even worse, poached from endangered animals. The best choices for souvenirs here are the silver jewelry and hand-crafted clothing. You can often find a silversmith working on a new piece near the southern end of the main strip where some of the silver shops are located. This southern area also tends to have better prices as it is farther from the high foot traffic areas near the center.

Some delicious Songpan tea to enjoy and relax after an exciting day in the city

Western styled foods and shops often come within territory of tourist based towns, and Songpan is no exception. For pizza, coffee and Wi-Fi, Emma’s Kitchen is the place to be, right off the main road. However, there are still many restaurants with traditional Chinese and Tibetan food and drink, including butter tea. This drink of butter, milk, egg, sesame, walnut, and red tea has a long standing history in Songpan and many Tibetans keep a pot on the stove, ready to serve at a moment’s notice.

May 25, 2016
Rongwu Monastery

History of Rongwu Monastery

Named for the Rongwu River, which it is located alongside, the Rongwu Monastery (རོང་པོ་དགོན་པ།)rests in Tongren County, Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture and is less than 200 km from Xining, the capital of Qinghai Province. The Monastery first began as a site for three temples in 1341. Initially established by Rongwu Samten Rinpoche, his younger brother was the designer and architect for the compound. The Temple of Three Buddhas was the first to be built, followed by the Golden Temple. It wasn’t until the first reincarnation of Rongwu Samten Rinpoche was recognized however, that the monastery was founded at the site of the three temples. Interestingly enough, the Monastery initially began under the Sakya Sect Monastery, however, over the years it became part of the Gelugpa Sect of Buddhism.

Expansion

Over the centuries, Rongwu Monastery has been expanded and updated and in 1991, when the eighth incarnation of Rongwu Samten Rinpoche was recognized, Yarba Chogyi, the Monastery received its newest building and further expansions. Yarba Chogyi built stupas at the four corners of the Monastery as well as a Victory Stupa. He had sayings of Buddha written in gold in various locations and even commissioned statues of Tsong Kapa. His greatest addition however, was the large prayer hall within the compound. Today, there are several significant buildings at Rongwu Monastery including The Great Sutra Hall, The Manjushri Hall, and the Main Assembly Hall.

Monastic Colleges

The first monastic college was established by Shartsang Gyatso in 1630, in which multiple Buddhist dialects were taught. Following several re-incarnations of Shartsang Lobsang Trinley Longtok Gyatso, the college was expanded and new halls were built to host the new colleges that were to come. The Gyamat Tratsang, or The Lower Tantric College, was established next, focusing on the study of the scriptures. This was followed by The Duikor Tratsang, or the college of Kalachakra, the study of the wheel of time.

Cham Dance

Performed during the Monlam Prayer Festival, the Cham Dance is a common sight at the Rongwu Monastery. The dance consists of traditional Tibetan instruments played by the monks and is meant to be a form of meditation and offering to the Gods. While it is not found in all sects of Buddhism, the monks at Rongwu Monastery are known for their impressive displays.

May 25, 2016