Category: Amdo Towns

Amdo Towns

As one of the closest parts of Tibet to the large cities of Western China, Amdo towns can be a great travel destination for those who happen to be visiting Chengdu, Xining, Lanzhou, or even Xian. There is convenient travel to Amdo Tibet from all these cities by either a short flight, or a few hours overland by bus or private vehicle. Train travel is even an option for some Amdo destinations.

For many of the Amdo towns, you will find stunning monasteries, each unique with its own design and style. Xiahe (Labrang in Tibetan) is home to the Labrang Monastery, known to be one of six great monasteries of the Gelukpa sect of Buddhism. It is far more than a monastery, but a monastic community containing temples and stupas (chortens in Tibetan), meeting halls, dwellings and dormitories for monks, and courtyards for festival times. Or perhaps Tongren (Rebkong in Tibetan) will interest you with its fame in all regions of Tibet for its deep history in Thangka painting. This ancient town grew around the Longwu Monastery after it was established back in 1301.

If monasteries do not spark any interest, Songpan holds historical significance as it was a key border city between the ancient Tibetan and Chinese empires and facilitated much trading between the two powers. Part of Songpan’s city wall still remains as a reminder of the tribal factions that used to exist between the different Tibetan peoples in its long history. Travelers can even purchase a ticket and take a tour on top of part of the old wall. Songpan is the gateway city to Jiuzhaigou National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The surrounding area of Songpan offers beautiful mountain views and close access to the nearby grasslands which Amdo Tibet is most known for.

For a helpful introduction to the geography of Tibet’s three regions relative to each other and the rest of China, be sure to visit our page on Tibet Travel Essentials.

Diebu ( Tewu) County

Diebu county (or “Tewu” “ཐེ་བོ་རྫོང་།” in Tibetan) is one of seven counties located in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is primarily a forested region comprising of a diversity of wildlife, peaceful Tibetan villages, and beautiful mountains. The population of Diebu county is around 60,000. It is 2,300 meters above sea level. In Diebu, the mud-sided, wood-frame houses are made with a style unique from other Tibetan areas. You can easily spend a few days in this area following jungle trails, discovering small villages, and exploring local Buddhist temples.

Top things to do in Diebu

You won’t have a hard time finding a place to stay in Diebu. There are many clean and friendly hotels at acceptable prices. Out of all of them, Luoke Inn is one of the best. It’s in a good location and has a great view of the mountain. Their rooms are comfortable and clean. There is a variety of restaurants in Diebu, offering Tibetan, Han Chinese, or Muslim food. Diebu is famous for its organic pork and wild vegetables. Make sure you try some. The Muslim noodle restaurant in town makes the best fried-noodles. Don’t miss it.

Muslim Noodle In Diebu County Town

Zhagana Rock Mountain

Zhagana is just 30km away from Diebu county town, though its altitude of 3,400 meters is significantly higher than Diebu. If you have any negative high-altitude symptoms in Zhagana, you can always quickly descend back to Diebu.

The View of Zhagana

The Lazikou Pass—Mao’s Last Obstacle

The Lazikou Mountain Pass (about 90km from Tiebu), carries great historical significance. During the Red Army’s Long March, after their crossing of the Zoige (Ruoergai) Marsh grasslands, Lazikou was the last major obstacle for Chairman Mao and his force before reaching northern Gansu. The pass had been fortified with blockades by the Kuomintang Army. It was finally taken by mountaineers led by Yang Chengdu on Sep 16, 1935. If you are at all interested in Chinese history, the Lazikou Pass is an extraordinary place to visit.

The Lazikou Mountain Pass

Bon and Buddhist Monasteries

There are some quaint Tibetan Buddhist and Bon monasteries around the Diebu area. The Baxi Danka Monastery dates back to 1257; it was founded by Master Rangpa in the Gelug tradition. Zuotsang Monastery is a newer Bon monastery that was founded in 1981. Originally, Bon is a Tibetan religion and many Tibetans still practice it and keep its traditions going. There are a few very ancient Bon monasteries in Diebu that were built during the Tubo Kingdom.

A Monk Doing Kora at A Bon Monastery

June 10, 2019
Maqu County

In Southwestern Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Region (Gansu Province) you’ll find a gem of Tibetan nomad culture and history—Maqu County. རྨ་ཆུ་རྫོང་། in Tibetan. ) Maqu is named after the Yellow River (it literally means “Yellow River” in Tibetan). It is located at the first bend of the Yellow River, whose abundant resource of nutrient-rich water makes the Maqu Grasslands the most beautiful wetlands in China.

More than 60,000 people reside in Maqu, ninety percent of whom are Tibetans who still live a fairly traditional nomadic lifestyle. In fact, Maqu is probably one of the best destinations to visit if you are interested in witnessing the authentic lifestyle of nomad Tibetans. That said, don’t go in winter! May to October is the best time to travel as the sun and the tents are out in all their glory. Also, make your way up to Maqu slowly. The average altitude is a head-spinning 3,700 meters (12,200 feet) above sea level.

Top Things to do in Maqu 

The No. 1 Bridge on Yellow River

The Yellow River is the second longest river in China. It is reverently regarded as the mother of the Han civilization. The 270 meter-long Number 1 Bridge was built in the upper reaches of the Yellow River in 1979 and offers a gorgeous view of both the sunset and sunrise.

The Yellow River In Maqu County

Gesar Horse Racing festival

The Gesar Horse Racing Festival is held in Maqu County around the middle of August. The festival is not only about horse racing, but also performing Tibetan dances and songs. On August 13th, 2017, more than 600 competitors from different Tibetan areas gathered in Maqu for the dance-off. During the three-day festival, local Tibetans set up their tents, cook delicious Tibetan food, dress up in beautiful local Tibetan dress, reunite with family, and enjoy picnicking.

Horses on grassland

Angwang Cang Wetland Park

Angwang Cang Wetland Park is 57 kilometers away from Maqu. Drive there in the morning and have lunch with nomads. Explore the park in the afternoon and as dusk sets in find a good spot to enjoy the sunset.

The Wetland Park in Maqu County

How to get to Maqu

Xiahe airport to Maqu: 140 km, 2 hours 20 minutes by bus.

Lanzhou city to Maqu: 398 km, 5 hours and 25 minutes by bus.

Langmusi to Maqu: 88 km, 1 hour and 40 minutes by bus.

Xiahe County to Maqu: 197 km, 3 hours and 15 minutes by bus.

April 29, 2019
Zhuoni – Jonê

Zhuoni (卓尼）is the Chinese name for the Tibetan county of Jonê（ཅོ་ནེ།） located 2,500 meters above sea level in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu province. With over 100,000 people, Jonê is a mix of Tibetan, Han Chinese, Hui, Miao, and Tu minorities. Yet, the majority (70%) is Tibetan.

The History of the Kingdom of Jonê

Historically, the people of Zhouni (Jonê) were ruled by a chiefdom (“Jonê Gyabo” in Tibetan; “Zhuoni Tusi” in Chinese). The Gatsang family established the Jonê Kingdom in the fifteenth century. At the time, the Ming dynasty emperor of China recognized Chief Gatsang as the authorized ruler of Jonê and gave him the Chinese surname Yang. To this day, many Tibetan families in this area have the Yang surname. The Yangs ruled Jonê until 1949.

Summer in Jonê County

Jonê Monastery

The predominant religion of Zhouni ( Jonê) is Tibetan Buddhism. The six Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the region all follow the Gelug tradition. On a hillside half a kilometer northwest of the county seat sits Jonê Monastery. As one of the oldest monasteries in Amdo Tibet, it was originally founded in 1269 by Drogon Ghogyel Phakpa in the Shakya sect. Shortly after the birth of the Gelug sect by Tsongkhapa, the Jonê Monastery became a Gelug monastery (in 1459) and was led by the Gelug master Renqing Lunpo. Unfortunately Jonê Monastery was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but was later rebuilt. At one point, it housed over 5,000 monks. Today, there are only 200.

Jonê County Seat

Cheba Valley

Quaint Tibetan villages pop up along the road that winds through the beautiful Cheba valley. People here make a living from both farming and raising livestock. The youth herd yaks, sheep, and horses in the pasture, while the elderly tend farms. Houses in the Cheba valley are built with wood and are closely connected to defend against thieves and invaders. Nyiba is the largest village in the valley with over 300 households (in Tibetan, Nyiba means “sunny slope”).

One of the Villages in Cheba Valley

Traditional Tibetan Dress In Cheba Valley

Dayu Valley

The Dayu Valley is an eco-tourism area. Nine gullies come together and form a spectacular landscape. Dayu is not a well-known tourism destination (far lesser-known than nearby JiuZhaiGou), but it still offers an abundance of fascinating places to visit. Primitive forests, mountains, rivers, ancient temples, and grasslands are abundant. You can walk and hike to your heart’s content. One trail will take you on a four to five-hour adventure. If that’s too long, there is a shorter trail that is less than half the distance. Wood cabins inside the valley offer cozy accommodation where you can spend a night or two. Entrance tickets are 68 RMB per person. The average elevation of the valley is around 2,500 meters.

Inside Dayu Valley

April 18, 2019
Zö ( Hezuo)

A lot Packed into Two Letters

Zö (གཙོས་) means “antelope” in Tibetan. It also signifies the city of Zö (or Hezuo in Chinese). As the capitol of Gannan Tibet Autonomous Prefecture, Zö is naturally the economic, political, educational, and cultural center of the prefecture. Zö lies on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan plateau at an average elevation of 3,000 meters. In 2015, its population was 90,000 people and it represented 24 ethnic groups. The vast majority of residents, however, are Tibetan.

Good lodging and great dining are easy to find in Zö. Want good entertainment? You’re in luck. Zö is home to the largest Tibetan opera theater in Gannan Prefecture. If you want to see professionals dance and sing in traditional Tibetan performances, make sure you go to the opera in town. It is open nightly, except in the winter season. Remarkably, the opera troupe from Zo performed in Israel in December 2017.

Gannan Breakdown

Gannan Tibet Autonomous Prefecture was founded in 1953 with seven counties and one city. Those counties are Lintan county ( Tibetan:ལིན་ཐན་རྫོང་།, Chinese:临潭县), Jonê county ( Tibetan:ཅོ་ནེ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 卓尼县, Luqu county ( Tibetan:ཀླུ་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese: Luqu 碌曲县), Maqu county ( Tibetan:རྨ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།, Chinese: 玛曲县), Tewo county( Tibetan: ཐེ་བོ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 迭部县)，Zhouqu county ( Tibetan: འབྲུག་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese: 舟曲县), and Xiahe county ( Tibetan: བསང་ཆུ་རྫོང་། Chinese:夏河县) with Hezuo (Zö གཙོས་གྲོང་ཁྱེར) being the city.

Zö – Hezuo Century Square

Right in the middle of the city, as in many other Chinese places, is a town square. Hezuo Century Square was built in 2000 and has become the cultural and communal heart of the city. People gather there in the morning for exercise. Local shows and other forms of entertainment pop up in the square from time to time. Most importantly, every evening at 7:00 pm people of all ages come to the square to dance the traditional Tibetan circle dance. Anyone can jump in.

Milarepa Fame

The famous Milarepa Temple towers above the main road toward Xiahe, about two kilometers from the bus station. Milarepa lived in the twelfth century and stands out among Tibet’s most famous Buddhist teachers (of the Kagyu tradition). The temple in his name was built in 1777. It was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but was rebuilt in 1988. Each of its nine floors displays many varieties of Buddhist statues, deities, and scriptures. Local Tibetans circumambulate the temple daily.

Gansu Normal University for Nationalities is located in southwest Zo, about two kilometers from the center of the city. Founded in 1984, the university is renowned for its beauty. Presently, there are over 10,000 students and 700 faculty.

April 4, 2018
Ngawa (Aba)

Located in the Northwest of Sichuan Province at an elevation of 3,200 meters above sea level is the town of Ngawa (རྔ་བ་རྫོང།), also known as Aba (阿坝县) in Chinese. Aba is located on the Tibetan plateau, and the town is the seat of Ngawa (Aba) County. The city holds a population of approximately 20,000 people, with 8,000 of them being monks.
Things to See in and around Aba Town

In the city and surrounding area there are 37 monasteries between both Tibetan Buddhism and the traditional Bon religion. Four of the most easily accessed monasteries (Tibetan: gompa) are Kirti Gompa, Setenling Gompa, Nangzhik Gompa, and Topgyel Gompa. Also worth a visit is the nearby Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area about 40 minutes drive from the city.

Kirti Gompa

Also known as Gerdeng Monastery, the full name for this monastery is Kirti Kalari Gon Tashi Lhundrub. A disciple of Tsongkhapa – Rongpa Chenakpa – founded the monastery in 1472 on the northwestern edge of Aba town. This monastery belongs to Tibetan Buddhism’s Gelugpa sect and houses approximately 2,500 monks today. When visiting, the beautiful yellow colouring of the monastery is visible in the distance, which will let you know you have arrived.

Kirti Monastery in Aba

Setenling Gompa

This monastery belongs to the Jonangpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and is about a kilometer from the eastern end of town (follow the main road straight out). Founded in the 13^th and 14^th century by Namnang Dorje, it was reconstituted in the end of the 19^th century by Dro-ge Yonten Gyatso. This monastery is a little more confusing to get inside than Kirti Gompa, and once inside if the temple is not open, there is a phone number to call to request access.

Nangzhik Gompa and Topgyel Gompa

Belonging to the ancient Tibetan religion of Bon, these two monasteries are located just outside of Aba. Estimates say there are between 800 to 1000 monks associated with these two locations. Nangzhik is about a 4 km walk up a hill on the north of town, while Topgyel holds a large stupa on a mountain to the east of Aba. Nangzhik Gompa is said to be the biggest Bon monastery in all of Tibet.

Stupa and prayer flags in Aba

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area

There is no bus running to this mountain, so a private vehicle rental is the way to go. The drive is approximately 60kms, making this a reasonable trip, but one that is well worth it for the view and the opportunity to walk the nature. If you happen to go to the mountain on a clear day, your photos will be spectacular.

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains in Aba

Horse Race Festival

The Aba Horse Race Festival takes place in the middle of July in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. Enjoy the festive atmosphere, and watch the locals participate in a little good natured competition.

Going There and Getting Around

Aba town is the transport hub of the county, with the most common way to travel to Aba being by bus. Some of the daily long haul bus routes running to and from Aba town include Chengdu (344km), Hongyuan/Mewa (157km), and Maerkang/Barkham (254km). Other buses include Mianyang City, Songpan County, Jinchuan County, Wenchuan County, Heishui County, and Xiangtang County.

Wherever you come from, on the drive into town, don’t miss the scenery as you drive past nomads and their yak herds, tent hotels, and the green grasslands.

Once in town it is fairly easy to walk around as it is not too big, however, to walk the full length of town is a significantly long walk. The bus station is located on the main road, so if you arrive this way, getting to the heart of Aba is very easy. Taxis and three-wheelers are available, and due to the size of the town, getting anywhere in one shouldn’t cost you very much.

View from Kirti Gompa in Aba

Things to Know

Due to the elevation on the plateau, even in the midst of summer, it is likely you will need clothes for cooler temperatures and potentially some rain. Yet, when the sun is out, the elevation makes it fairly strong, so sunscreen is a recommended packing list item. It is also good to remember that this town is located at 3,200 meters, so if you are coming directly from a low-lying area (such as Chengdu), your body will need some time to adjust to the elevation.

September 1, 2016
Zoigê (Ruoergai)

The county town of Zoigê (མཛོད་དགེ་རྫོང་།)is located in the Amdo Tibetan region of Sichuan. Known for its Tibetan Nomads, Flower Lake, the Hequ horse, and more, this is a popular place for travellers wishing to see the Tibetan Plateau.Ruoergai (若尔盖) in Chinese.
Things to Visit Around Ruoergai

Flower Lake

Located a half hour drive north of Ruoergai, one can find the Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve. Commonly known in Chinese as Hua Hu, the literal translation is Flower Lake. This marshland is known for the flower shape of the lake (although it does flower in summer), it’s wildlife, and the view of the reeds poking up through the lake. The wildlife includes several endangered species, and is officially the homeland of the black-necked crane.

Yellow River’s First Bend

Affectionately known as the Mother River of China, the Yellow River is the second largest river in the PRC. Located on the border between the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the first turn in the Yellow River is a well traversed scenic spot located to the west of the town.

Flower lake in Ruoergai

Daza Temple

Officially know as Daza Temple of the Propitious & Goodness, this temple is located in the Northeast of Ruoergai town. Founded during the Qing Dynasty, today this temple belongs to the Gelugpa Sect with travellers coming to marvel at the architecture and cultural relics. Tours are available in Chinese and English for visitors.

Teiwu Valley

This valley is not as well known as some of the other scenic spots in Ruoergai County, but this is simply because it has yet to be discovered by mainstream tourism. Known as being the “Homeland of Deer”, this valley is a tranquil place to visit.

Daza Monastery in Ruoergai

Langmu Monasteries

Located on the border of the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the Kirit Gompa belongs to the county of Ruoergai, while the Girti monastery belongs to Gansu. While this town is small, with almost a third of the population coming from the resident monks at the monastery alone, if you find yourself in Ruoergai, it is well worth the visit.

Getting There

When visiting Ruoergai, there are busses running to the area daily, with a bus from Chengdu (a gateway city to the Tibetan regions) taking approximately 12 hours. If you are not starting in Ruoergai, but rather it is simply a stop on your journey, bus or private vehicles are fairly easy to arrange from place to place.

On the other hand, if you choose to fly, there are airports located in Shaqu, Jiuzhaigou, or Hong Yuan, from which travelling by vehicle is not too difficult. (Depending on which airport you travel to will determine if a taxi or private vehicle hire is more economical).

Ruoergai Grassland

September 1, 2016
Hong Yuan (Krhongche)

The city of Hong Yuan（红原) is located on the Tibetan Plateau in the Amdo region of Sichuan, and is also known in Tibetan as Krhongche (ཁྱུང་མཆུ།). Hong Yuan sits at an altitude of 3,400m (11,000ft.), and has a population of about 50,000 people. The town was named in 1960 by the Chinese Prime Minister Zhouenlai in memory of the Long March by the Red Army through the grasslands in the 1930s. This town is known for several things including the surrounding grasslands, nomads, and for producing yak meat and dairy products.
Things to Do in Hong Yuan

There are several things to do in and around Hong Yuan including a visit to Moon Bay, enjoying the nomadic life, and trying your coordination at the community Tibetan Dancing.

Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

The most well known of these is a visit to Moon Bay located just 3kms to the west of the town. Moon Bay is a wonderful site to see White River zigzagging its way through the grasslands filled with yak herds. Organized activities here include a zip-line, short horse rides, and rafting, while this also makes a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Beautiful Moon Bay in Hong Yuan

Nomadic Life

For those wishing to experience Nomadic Tibetan Life, there are several places in the area that have opened tent hotels and offer guests trail rides across the plateau. Those who choose to stay in one of these options do so for the sake of experiencing nomadic life complete with tent, campfires, and stars.

Tibetan Dancing

Every night all ages can be found dancing in the town square in the traditional Tibetan style. This is open to the public, and as this is a circle dance, joining in is easy. While you will get some curious smiles as you learn the steps, the dancers are friendly to those willing to try, so copy the person in front of you, and you will soon catch on.

Tips for the non-dancer: some of the dances are more complicated than others, so if one if proving a little too challenging, take a breather, and enjoy watching the pros. Also, if you are really struggling with the footwork, concentrate on the arms, and shuffle your way along. Otherwise, relax, enjoy yourself, and keep trying (they all learned this once too)!

Yaks grazing on the beautiful Hong Yuan Grassland.

Flower Sea

During the months of June and July visitors to Hong Yuan enjoy a visit to Flower Sea. This “sea” is actually a carpet of grassland wildflowers, and is approximately 30 minutes drive from the town.

Things to Know in Hong Yuan

When looking for a meal in town, there are two primary streets for food. While the main street (S 209 Road) holds quite a few nice restaurants, the prices here indicate they profit a bit from the tourists. If you are looking for the more reasonably price food, head over to Jiangxi Street to find the places the locals tend to frequent.

When looking down the streets of Hong Yuan, it seems that there are concrete and bricks being laid everywhere! This city appears to have had quite the facelift in recent years, making for some fairly pretty and fairly wide streets.

The river running through Hong Yuan County Town.

Getting There

Hong Yuan Airport is located 48kms southwest of the town, and is only open for certain months of the year. The exact dates of operation change slightly every year, but the rule of thumb is flights tend to only run in the summer months. This airport is fairly new as it only opened in August of 2014.

If you don’t choose to fly, one of the best ways to get into Hong Yuan is the bus which comes from most of the major towns in the area daily (Chengdu, Maerkang, Aba, Ruoergai, etc.). The bus station has just been renovated, and is conveniently located on the main road of the town.

August 19, 2016
Rebkong (Tongren)

The town of Rebkong (རེབ་གོང་།) in the Huangnan Prefecture has much to offer travelers. Known throughout the years for its art, monasteries, agricultural and mining community, and even for its cultural revolution, visitors can spend days taking in all this historic town has to offer. While the town of Tongren is known as such in Mandarin (同仁).
Its Humble Beginnings

The town that was established around the Longwu Monastery centuries ago in 1301, and would eventually come to form an administrative system that seamlessly combined the Chinese dynastic rule of the time with Buddhism. The town and Monastery were both widely expanded upon during the Ming Dynasty and had turned what was considered a useless region, into a flourishing town mostly filled with soldiers. Today, the monastery is the home of three separate academic institutions, houses several hundred monks, and sees visitors from around the world on a daily basis.

The architecture for the monestary is full of wild colors and designs.

Beauty In Art

Longwu isn’t the only monastery nearby, nor is it the most visited. In fact, many travelers to the area prefer the Wutong Monastery because of its numerous Thangka paintings created by the monastery’s monks. While many of the original pieces were destroyed in the fallout of the Cultural Revolution, the style and beauty that once was, still lives on with the current population of artistically talented monks. Hand ground pigments and gold leaf are still used with the traditional styles that garnered this monastery’s far reaching reputation.

Authentic Items For Sale

These pieces can take anywhere from a few months to a couple years to create, and this is reflected in the price as well as their unbelievable detail. A large piece can sometimes sell for upwards of ¥50,000 (approximately $820 USD), with much smaller pieces usually selling for around ¥500 (approximately $80 USD). There is still plenty of exotic, fashionable clothing sold in the market, alongside souvenirs and local trinkets as well.

One can see the beautiful Tibetan craftsmanship in there buildings

Taking in The Culture

To really blend in with the locals, you will need to eat and play like the locals. Vendors along the streets often sell a variety of unique delicacies, with dried sheep’s head and yak butter tea being among them. For the less adventurous, freshly made yak milk yogurt can be found being sold by some vendors, and many Tibetan restaurants line the streets with more traditional foods. Roaming the streets between the sights, meals, and shopping, you can usually find a few locals gambling the day away with their own style of card and dice games, but welcoming any new players who are willing to take a chance.

Scenic Beauty

For those more interested in the Tibetan landscapes, snowcapped mountains and natural beauty that is prevalent on the Tibetan Plateau, Tongren does not cease to amaze. Within a reasonable walking distance from here, you can find breathtaking hills and grasslands; sparsely spread out on acres with mountains in the background and the common sights of sheep and yak tended to among the acres.

May 27, 2016
Sungchu (Songpan )

Located in the North of Sichuan Province, with a population over 68,000, is Sungchu (ཟུང་ཆུ). Until recently it was an agriculturally dominated community, but with an influx of foreign students and travelers to and from Huanglong, Sungchu, known in Chinese Songpan County (松潘), has added tourism to being one of its top sectors.
Songpan’s Strategic Location

Built during the Tang Dynasty and expanded during the Ming Dynasty, for many years this was an important military location. When it was established, it sat at the border of the Chinese and Tibetan empires, and at many points in history the Tibetans staged invasions into China from its strategic location.

View of the city from atop of a hill

Deep History

In 641, in order to broker a truce between the two empires, Emperor Tang offered Princess WenCheng to the Tibetan King in Songpan. There are several statues of Princess WenCheng in town which symbolize this time of peace and it is not uncommon to find many tourist admiring and taking photos. Plenty of historic sites exist as well, with much of the city’s walls still standing, including its gates.

Exploring Adventurously

The surrounding areas have much to offer – enormous valleys, rolling hills, and seemingly endless forests and guides can be found all around Songpan and its neighboring areas. Mountain bike tours of the area can take most of the day and offer access to areas too far for a hike or backpacking trip, but the options are still there. Many tourists spend more than a day or two out in the mountains, hiking and camping along the way to smaller villages filled with livestock and farming.

City street not similar to the noisy streets of major cities in Mainland China.

For the Brave

Hiking and mountain biking can get you far, but there is no better way to experience all Songpan’s beautiful landscape has to offer than with a horseback tour. Day trips and overnight treks are common and some agencies in the area offer an even more, in depth trek lasting anywhere from four to seven days with a combination of camping and sleeping in villages.

Shopping for Tourists

Shopping in a more tourist-oriented town can sometimes be tricky, as furs and hides can be fake or even worse, poached from endangered animals. The best choices for souvenirs here are the silver jewelry and hand-crafted clothing. You can often find a silversmith working on a new piece near the southern end of the main strip where some of the silver shops are located. This southern area also tends to have better prices as it is farther from the high foot traffic areas near the center.

Some delicious Songpan tea to enjoy and relax after an exciting day in the city

Western styled foods and shops often come within territory of tourist based towns, and Songpan is no exception. For pizza, coffee and Wi-Fi, Emma’s Kitchen is the place to be, right off the main road. However, there are still many restaurants with traditional Chinese and Tibetan food and drink, including butter tea. This drink of butter, milk, egg, sesame, walnut, and red tea has a long standing history in Songpan and many Tibetans keep a pot on the stove, ready to serve at a moment’s notice.

May 25, 2016
Barkham (Maerkang)

The prefectural capital of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, sometimes known as Barkham (འབར་ཁམས), Maerkang (马尔康) holds a mostly Han Chinese population of around 50,000, with some Tibetans as well. Because of its elevation, Maerkang has a unique climate resting somewhere between subtropical and humid continental, where monsoons are not uncommon.
See the large hills around Maerkang

Sightseeing In the Area

Maerkang, which in Tibetan means “The Place Lightened by Butter Lamps,” is not the most tourist-friendly place to visit as almost no one speaks English and it can be difficult to find a way to travel to and from here. Many places will not rent rooms or offer a place to sleep to foreigners, although you may get lucky and find a local who is willing to help. Despite all this, there are still plenty of sites to see in the area. The Dazang Temple is a popular destination, with a wonderful view of the ancient block houses below and beautiful views of the snowcapped mountains and plant life in the area. Near the towns of Songgang and Shaerzong, both are nice places to stop for a bite to eat and take in more historical sites.

The Maerkang Temple

Located on Zangkou Mountain, the Maerkang Temple is another popular destination for visitors. Not only does this temple offer a look at a historic site, but from the mountainside, views of the valley below are plentiful. From the base of Zangkou Mountain, the Suomo River Canyon flows all the way to the Baiwan Township.

View from the hillside, Maerkang is small in comparison to China’s mainland cities.

A Chance to View History

Not far from Maerkang, roughly ten minutes away, is the village of Zhoukeji. Here you can see the renovated watchtower fortress, which was formerly occupied by Mao Zedong. He stayed here several times during the Long March. For a steep price you can gain entry and also have another view of the surrounding landscape. Across from the watchtower is a small village featuring many traditional Tibetan architectural structures.

Take In The Scenic Beauty

Some of the best scenic locations in the area are only a short distance away from Maerkang, in Miyaluo, which some describe as almost like a fairy tale in autumn. Mostly overgrown vegetation, clear water from the mountains, vast plant and animal life, and the red leaves that cover the area that time of year offer an abundance of photo opportunities. Complete with flowing rivers and waterfalls, giant maple trees and even bubbling hot springs, the area is great for anyone looking for solace or inspiration.

Events for Visitors

During certain times of the year, the area is also host to a number of festivals and events including new years and many horse racing events complete with barley wine, music and plenty of traditional food.

May 25, 2016
Bsang chu rdzong (xiahe xian )

Located in Gansu Province, bsang chu rdzong (བསང་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), known as Xiahe’s (夏河)in Chinese.The main road runs parallel along the Daxia River. While some areas outside of town may have difficulties with running water or electricity, the well-worn tourist travelled areas does not experience any of these issues. Within a short distance of the town there are many historic and natural sites to visit. Both the Sangke Grasslands and Ganjia Grasslands are home to many nomadic herders and can be reached by renting bicycle in town. To see forested areas surrounding a beautiful lake near a small Tibetan village, Darzong Lake is only a couple hours away. For those who do not wish to wander on their own, there are many guides who are willing to give walking tours of the surrounding area’s natural and amazing landscape.
Shopping in Xiahe (Labrang)

Along the main road in Xiahe there is a vast array of shops selling everything from jewelry and hand-crafted items to modern clothing and fabrics, made by hand from yak wool. Bargaining is a common sight among these shops and with a little negotiation, you will often get great prices. While you may find many unique and beautiful items here among this strip, one thing to stay away from is fur. Although not every fur item here is fake, there are enough in the market to make any visitor cautious. Some fake furs may contain real hide however, and are sometimes obtained illegally from endangered species.

The Magnificent Labrang Monastery

The most popular destination here by far is the Labrang Monastery. Some visitors spend days taking in its enormous temple and grounds. Built in 1709, the monastery was expanded over the years and has become one of six great monasteries of the Gelukpa sect of Buddhism in Tibet. Still an active monastery, there is a chance you will find the monks here engaged in a religious ceremony, while you wander freely through prayer halls, living quarters, and open grounds.

Gongtang Chorten

Like many monasteries, Labrang’s artifacts, walls, and history were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. During the 1980’s much of the monastery was rebuilt. Some additions are much more recent, such as the Gongtang Chorten. For a small price, you can climb this golden topped Chorten near the river.

Man Jus’ri Temple

One of the most impressive sites of the monastery however, is the Man Jus’ri Temple, housing several extravagant Buddha statues within its walls. Often, visitors can hear the monks’ chanting echoing through the halls. Beyond the temple, quietly sitting on a hillside, is the Thangka sunning terrace. Every Tibetan New Year, an enormous Thangka is displayed across this flat slope, but every other day of the year it is a great place to get a view of the entire monastery and the hills behind it.

April 15, 2016
Trochu (Heishui)

Trochu (ཁྲོ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), under the Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, is part of Sichuan Province. Most of the Tibetans found here are not Amdo speaking. In fact, they are part of a sub-group known as Gyarong, who are Qiangic speaking Tibetans. Known in Chinese as Heishui County (黑水), Trochu has something to offer for every visitor from modern luxuries and hotels to scenic routes and hiking tours of the Dagu Glacier.
The monastery above Heishui.

Food to Try

In town, there’s a wide variety of restaurants. You can find authentic Tibetan cuisine, fast food franchises and Sichuanese restaurants of every kind. If you are on the run, there are plenty of locals selling food as street vendors. The smell of shaokao (Chinese BBQ) fills the air. Choose your skewered meats and vegetables for the vendor to grill. Make sure you tell him how much spice you can handle! Tibetan tea also has a long-standing history here. You can find it on almost every menu you come across.

Lodging for Visitors

There are numerous hotels to stay in around the area. Locally-run guesthouses are also available and can have a cozier feel without the luxuries of the larger hotels. They typically offer a comfortable stay for lower prices and much more space. For those going with the guesthouse option, you may also find yourself lucky enough to try some homemade barely wines, as well.

The view on the way to Heishui.

The Scenic Tour of Heishui

Visitors come to Heishui for the famous scenery and tours. Not far from town by way of a hike or backpacking tour, you will come across everything from majestic waterfalls to massive rivers and icy lakes. Travelers who find themselves in Heishui in Autumn should pay a visit to Cailin (pronounced “tsai leen”). Cailin means “Colorful Forest.” Between late September and early November the forest leaves change color. Every shade of gold, orange, yellow, and red speckles the mountainsides. The Heishui colored forest is the largest in Asia. This area is formed from the San’ao Mountains, Dagu Glacier and both Kalong Valley and Hongjun Valley. Some of the best views of the forest come from the Kalong Valley, where every aspect of Cailin’s beauty can be seen.

Reaching the Dagu Glacier near Heishui.

Dagu Glacier: A Magnificent Site to See

The most popular destination, however, is Dagu Glacier. And while the trip can be a little tiring and though high altitudes may bother some visitors, the views from the top are well worth it. The glacier site is open to visitors year round. However, as mentioned above, for the best views one should go in November.

What a Ride!

The journey to the top begins with a shuttle bus to the base of the glacier. During the shuttle ride, you’ll have plenty of chances to catch some great scenic views. After arriving at the base, a cable car takes you to the top of the glacier. The cable car ride provides great views of the lakes, rivers, and forests in the area. You may also spot a few of the many species of plant and animal life on the way up. The views from the cable car are almost as magnificent as the final destination itself. Once at the top of the nearly 5,000-meter peak, you finally have a view of the glacier and valleys. You’ll be able to see clearly how the glacier has dug in and shaped the great valleys below.

April 15, 2016
Chabcha (Gonghe)

Among the grasslands of Qinghai province, sitting in its own valley, lies the ever growing town of Chabcha (ཆབ་ཆ།). Known in Mandarin as Gonghe (共和县), this prefectural capital of Hainan has everything from crowded markets to beautiful landscapes and over the years has become a center point for transportation and goods due to its geographical proximity to many other attractive locations.
To the north of Chabcha, you can see the edge of Lake Qinghai, the largest fresh water lake on the Qinghai-Tibet plateau and a popular grazing location for local nomadic herders. Nomadic practices were historically predominant and spread throughout most of Asia. These grasslands were perfect for raising livestock as opposed to growing crops in an unsuitable terrain. It is thought that because of these grasslands, the nomadic populations of the region were able to occupy and colonize the area much earlier than other parts of Asia. Among the grasslands above, you can still find many nomads camping and raising livestock.

Surrounding the town are several monasteries and temples, including the Panchen Lama Memorial Stupa. Here the monks have started selling butter candles to both pilgrims and tourists alike, as a source of income. These efforts were put in place to fund efforts to increase international tourism and have since been very helpful. Not far from here you can also find the Jiayi Temple as well.

One of the most notable locations in the area is the branch campus of Qinghai Normal University. Founded in 1956, QHNU has become one of the key universities at the provincial level in China with major focuses on Science and Liberal Arts. Since then the university has established 2 more colleges, 14 departments, a research institute, and 3 branch locations, including the site in Chabcha (Gonghe). It is very common for students to begin their education at this site before moving on to finish their degrees at the university’s main campus.

April 7, 2016