Category: Amdo Tibet

Amdo Tibet

The region of Amdo Tibet lies on the North Eastern part of the plateau known today as the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It covers a large part of present day Qinghai Province as well as the adjoining parts of Sichuan and Gansu Provinces. This distinct region of Tibet lies the farthest away from Lhasa and is still primarily characterized as nomadic, especially throughout the prefectures of Golog (Golok), Huangnan, Hainan, Aba, and Gannan. Nomadic communities are spread across this vast area yet, unlike Kham Tibet, maintain a common dialect throughout. Amdo herdsmen fit the stereotypical image many people have of Tibetans as nomads, and the Golog tribe of southern Amdo are renowned as the most wild even by Tibetans themselves.

The Amdo Tibetans are unified by their relatively similar forms of the language, mainly based on archaic nomad dialects that seem to have changed relatively little over the centuries. Today the Amdo claim the highest levels of Tibetan literacy and are proud of their scholars both lay and monastic. Relative to Kham Tibet, this region is less mountainous with vast grasslands that are painted in green throughout the summer months while herds of yak and sheep graze under the care of shepherds. Winter brings an especially desperate environment to this part of the Tibetan plateau with low temperatures mixed with relentless winds.

The Chinese cities of Chengdu, Lanzhou, and Xining are the main gateway cities to Amdo Tibet. From these three cities there is convenient access to much of the region via land or air. Public buses are more comfortable than most people think these days, and if you are traveling in a group it is very economical to hire a private vehicle. Your guesthouse or hotel should be able to assist with arranging your ground transport depending on your needs. Airports are also conveniently located in Jiuzhaigou, Xiahe (Labrang), and Hongyuan.

Barkham (Maerkang)

The prefectural capital of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, sometimes known as Barkham (འབར་ཁམས), Maerkang (马尔康) holds a mostly Han Chinese population of around 50,000, with some Tibetans as well. Because of its elevation, Maerkang has a unique climate resting somewhere between subtropical and humid continental, where monsoons are not uncommon.
See the large hills around Maerkang

Sightseeing In the Area

Maerkang, which in Tibetan means “The Place Lightened by Butter Lamps,” is not the most tourist-friendly place to visit as almost no one speaks English and it can be difficult to find a way to travel to and from here. Many places will not rent rooms or offer a place to sleep to foreigners, although you may get lucky and find a local who is willing to help. Despite all this, there are still plenty of sites to see in the area. The Dazang Temple is a popular destination, with a wonderful view of the ancient block houses below and beautiful views of the snowcapped mountains and plant life in the area. Near the towns of Songgang and Shaerzong, both are nice places to stop for a bite to eat and take in more historical sites.

The Maerkang Temple

Located on Zangkou Mountain, the Maerkang Temple is another popular destination for visitors. Not only does this temple offer a look at a historic site, but from the mountainside, views of the valley below are plentiful. From the base of Zangkou Mountain, the Suomo River Canyon flows all the way to the Baiwan Township.

View from the hillside, Maerkang is small in comparison to China’s mainland cities.

A Chance to View History

Not far from Maerkang, roughly ten minutes away, is the village of Zhoukeji. Here you can see the renovated watchtower fortress, which was formerly occupied by Mao Zedong. He stayed here several times during the Long March. For a steep price you can gain entry and also have another view of the surrounding landscape. Across from the watchtower is a small village featuring many traditional Tibetan architectural structures.

Take In The Scenic Beauty

Some of the best scenic locations in the area are only a short distance away from Maerkang, in Miyaluo, which some describe as almost like a fairy tale in autumn. Mostly overgrown vegetation, clear water from the mountains, vast plant and animal life, and the red leaves that cover the area that time of year offer an abundance of photo opportunities. Complete with flowing rivers and waterfalls, giant maple trees and even bubbling hot springs, the area is great for anyone looking for solace or inspiration.

Events for Visitors

During certain times of the year, the area is also host to a number of festivals and events including new years and many horse racing events complete with barley wine, music and plenty of traditional food.

May 25, 2016
Lhamo Gompa（Langmusi）

Different Faiths in Langmusi

The Sichuan-Gansu border runs right through the center of Lhamo (ལྷ་མོ།) town. Here, Islamic and Buddhist faiths live peaceably together in this monastic village that hosts two Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist monasteries as well as an Islamic Mosque. Lhamo offers visitors a look into both religions and cultures. Although each is located in a different province, Kirti Monastery (ཀིརྟི་དགོན་པ།) and Sertri Monastery (གསེར་ཁྲི་དགོན་པ།) are not far from each other. Some speculate that the reason the border splits the town is because of years of power struggles between the two Langmusi monasteries.

One of the two Langmusi Monasteries known as the Kirti Monastery.

Behind the Name

The Tibetan Buddhist monasteries are known as the Dacang Lhamo Gerdeng Monasteries. Dacang means “Tigers’ den” and, as the story goes, there was a large tiger den near where the Monastery now sits. The word Lhamo means “fairy maiden.” In nearby caves, the shape of the stones resemble the female body. The literal translation of Dacang Lhamo, then, is “a fairy maiden in the tiger’s den.”

Monks enter the meeting hall at Kirti Monastery in Langmusi.

Langmusi Monasteries

Kirti Monastery

Both of the monasteries are well regarded and historically significant. Kirti Monastery, however, is the larger and more impressive of the two. Kirti sits on the Sichuan side of town. Seven hundred monks call Kirti home. The first of its temples was built in 1713 by a descendant of Kirti-incarnated lamas, named Tala. By 1748, three temples were built in total and the area was expanded into a much larger compound. There are many caves behind Kirti Monastery. In one of these caves, you can find the statue of the Tibetan Goddess, Palden Lhamo. The Namo Gorge, which is the source of the Bailong River, is also nearby.

A cave near Kirti Monastery

Sertri Monastery

The Sertri Monastery is also called the Gansu Monastery. It is on the northern hill on the other side of the river. This monastery dates back to 1748 and is one of the few remaining locations of Tibetan Sky Burials. These ceremonies are usually private. Sertri Monastery is home to nearly 350 monks, making it the smaller of the two monasteries. Despite its smaller size and less impressive reputation, many Tibetan pilgrims begin their Kora at Sertri.

Sertri Monastery in Gansu

May 25, 2016
Bsang chu rdzong (xiahe xian )

Located in Gansu Province, bsang chu rdzong (བསང་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), known as Xiahe’s (夏河)in Chinese.The main road runs parallel along the Daxia River. While some areas outside of town may have difficulties with running water or electricity, the well-worn tourist travelled areas does not experience any of these issues. Within a short distance of the town there are many historic and natural sites to visit. Both the Sangke Grasslands and Ganjia Grasslands are home to many nomadic herders and can be reached by renting bicycle in town. To see forested areas surrounding a beautiful lake near a small Tibetan village, Darzong Lake is only a couple hours away. For those who do not wish to wander on their own, there are many guides who are willing to give walking tours of the surrounding area’s natural and amazing landscape.
Shopping in Xiahe (Labrang)

Along the main road in Xiahe there is a vast array of shops selling everything from jewelry and hand-crafted items to modern clothing and fabrics, made by hand from yak wool. Bargaining is a common sight among these shops and with a little negotiation, you will often get great prices. While you may find many unique and beautiful items here among this strip, one thing to stay away from is fur. Although not every fur item here is fake, there are enough in the market to make any visitor cautious. Some fake furs may contain real hide however, and are sometimes obtained illegally from endangered species.

The Magnificent Labrang Monastery

The most popular destination here by far is the Labrang Monastery. Some visitors spend days taking in its enormous temple and grounds. Built in 1709, the monastery was expanded over the years and has become one of six great monasteries of the Gelukpa sect of Buddhism in Tibet. Still an active monastery, there is a chance you will find the monks here engaged in a religious ceremony, while you wander freely through prayer halls, living quarters, and open grounds.

Gongtang Chorten

Like many monasteries, Labrang’s artifacts, walls, and history were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. During the 1980’s much of the monastery was rebuilt. Some additions are much more recent, such as the Gongtang Chorten. For a small price, you can climb this golden topped Chorten near the river.

Man Jus’ri Temple

One of the most impressive sites of the monastery however, is the Man Jus’ri Temple, housing several extravagant Buddha statues within its walls. Often, visitors can hear the monks’ chanting echoing through the halls. Beyond the temple, quietly sitting on a hillside, is the Thangka sunning terrace. Every Tibetan New Year, an enormous Thangka is displayed across this flat slope, but every other day of the year it is a great place to get a view of the entire monastery and the hills behind it.

April 15, 2016
Labrang Monastery

In the Tibetan area of Amdo, the Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu, the Labrang Monastery(བླ་བྲང་དགོན་པ།) houses the largest population of monks outside of the Tibetan Autonomous Region. The site is a popular tourist destination and only a four-hour drive from the provincial capital of Lanzhou.
History

To Tibetan Buddhists this is one of the most important monasteries today and sits at a very strategic location between the two cultures of Mongolians and Tibetans. In the early years of the 20^th century, it was the most influential and largest monastery in the Amdo region. It not only housed several thousand monks, but was also home to the largest Buddhist monastic university at the time.

First founded in 1709, through the centuries it has been near the center of many gruesome conflicts and changes in the political landscape. Many of these conflicts, which have continued well into the 1950’s and beyond, have left their mark on the monastery’s legacy. Between 1917 and 1949, several riots and attacks took place against Labrang Monastery from the Chinese Muslim Ma clique, who even occupied the monastery at one point.

The Assembly hall of the monastery was burned to the ground in early 1985, along with many of its religious and cultural artifacts. It was eventually replaced five years later with a new building.

Visiting Labrang Monastery

The monastery combines multiple architectural styles including traditional Indian Vihara and Tibetan styles, to create a beautiful and unique compound. The monastery is so large in fact, that you may need more than a day to see all it has to offer. The compound is made up of six learning institutes, a Sutra debate hall, eighteen separate halls and an abundance of Sutra housed here. Within the halls and Buddhist museum located inside, you can find a massive collection of Buddha statues, murals, and religious artifacts on display.

During certain times of the year you may come across one of the many Buddhist ceremonies held here and due to its significance and size, many Buddhist festivals are celebrated here with debates, praying and huge ceremonies.

Notable Stops

There are several notable locations for visitors to see while in Labrang Monastery that have become popular with tourists over the years, including some new locations. The Thangka Sunning Terrace located on a hillside over a river, is a flat slope made of stone where you can get one of the best views of the Monastery and its surrounding landscape. During the Tibetan New Year, this is where the massive Thangka is unrolled for all to see.

Many visitors make sure to stop and view the beautifully colored prayer wheels inside. These are continuously spun by pilgrims hoping for rewards in the next life; many also visit the newly built Gongtang Chorten, with its golden top and beautiful views. The most popular stop however, is the Man Jus’ri Temple located towards the rear of the main courtyard. Many pilgrims stop near the yak butter sculptures to make offering and pray to the living Buddhas contained in the silver Chortens nearby. The Temple also houses many extravagant Buddha statues and artifacts along its walls and often time the monks chanting can be heard echoing through the halls.

April 15, 2016
Trochu (Heishui)

Trochu (ཁྲོ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), under the Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, is part of Sichuan Province. Most of the Tibetans found here are not Amdo speaking. In fact, they are part of a sub-group known as Gyarong, who are Qiangic speaking Tibetans. Known in Chinese as Heishui County (黑水), Trochu has something to offer for every visitor from modern luxuries and hotels to scenic routes and hiking tours of the Dagu Glacier.
The monastery above Heishui.

Food to Try

In town, there’s a wide variety of restaurants. You can find authentic Tibetan cuisine, fast food franchises and Sichuanese restaurants of every kind. If you are on the run, there are plenty of locals selling food as street vendors. The smell of shaokao (Chinese BBQ) fills the air. Choose your skewered meats and vegetables for the vendor to grill. Make sure you tell him how much spice you can handle! Tibetan tea also has a long-standing history here. You can find it on almost every menu you come across.

Lodging for Visitors

There are numerous hotels to stay in around the area. Locally-run guesthouses are also available and can have a cozier feel without the luxuries of the larger hotels. They typically offer a comfortable stay for lower prices and much more space. For those going with the guesthouse option, you may also find yourself lucky enough to try some homemade barely wines, as well.

The view on the way to Heishui.

The Scenic Tour of Heishui

Visitors come to Heishui for the famous scenery and tours. Not far from town by way of a hike or backpacking tour, you will come across everything from majestic waterfalls to massive rivers and icy lakes. Travelers who find themselves in Heishui in Autumn should pay a visit to Cailin (pronounced “tsai leen”). Cailin means “Colorful Forest.” Between late September and early November the forest leaves change color. Every shade of gold, orange, yellow, and red speckles the mountainsides. The Heishui colored forest is the largest in Asia. This area is formed from the San’ao Mountains, Dagu Glacier and both Kalong Valley and Hongjun Valley. Some of the best views of the forest come from the Kalong Valley, where every aspect of Cailin’s beauty can be seen.

Reaching the Dagu Glacier near Heishui.

Dagu Glacier: A Magnificent Site to See

The most popular destination, however, is Dagu Glacier. And while the trip can be a little tiring and though high altitudes may bother some visitors, the views from the top are well worth it. The glacier site is open to visitors year round. However, as mentioned above, for the best views one should go in November.

What a Ride!

The journey to the top begins with a shuttle bus to the base of the glacier. During the shuttle ride, you’ll have plenty of chances to catch some great scenic views. After arriving at the base, a cable car takes you to the top of the glacier. The cable car ride provides great views of the lakes, rivers, and forests in the area. You may also spot a few of the many species of plant and animal life on the way up. The views from the cable car are almost as magnificent as the final destination itself. Once at the top of the nearly 5,000-meter peak, you finally have a view of the glacier and valleys. You’ll be able to see clearly how the glacier has dug in and shaped the great valleys below.

April 15, 2016
Chabcha (Gonghe)

Among the grasslands of Qinghai province, sitting in its own valley, lies the ever growing town of Chabcha (ཆབ་ཆ།). Known in Mandarin as Gonghe (共和县), this prefectural capital of Hainan has everything from crowded markets to beautiful landscapes and over the years has become a center point for transportation and goods due to its geographical proximity to many other attractive locations.
To the north of Chabcha, you can see the edge of Lake Qinghai, the largest fresh water lake on the Qinghai-Tibet plateau and a popular grazing location for local nomadic herders. Nomadic practices were historically predominant and spread throughout most of Asia. These grasslands were perfect for raising livestock as opposed to growing crops in an unsuitable terrain. It is thought that because of these grasslands, the nomadic populations of the region were able to occupy and colonize the area much earlier than other parts of Asia. Among the grasslands above, you can still find many nomads camping and raising livestock.

Surrounding the town are several monasteries and temples, including the Panchen Lama Memorial Stupa. Here the monks have started selling butter candles to both pilgrims and tourists alike, as a source of income. These efforts were put in place to fund efforts to increase international tourism and have since been very helpful. Not far from here you can also find the Jiayi Temple as well.

One of the most notable locations in the area is the branch campus of Qinghai Normal University. Founded in 1956, QHNU has become one of the key universities at the provincial level in China with major focuses on Science and Liberal Arts. Since then the university has established 2 more colleges, 14 departments, a research institute, and 3 branch locations, including the site in Chabcha (Gonghe). It is very common for students to begin their education at this site before moving on to finish their degrees at the university’s main campus.

April 7, 2016