Tibetpedia

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  • Bsang chu rdzong (xiahe xian )

    Bsang chu rdzong (xiahe xian )

    Located in Gansu Province, bsang chu rdzong (བསང་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), known as Xiahe’s (夏河)in Chinese.The main road runs parallel along the Daxia River. While some areas outside of town may have difficulties with running water or electricity, the well-worn tourist travelled areas does not experience any of these issues.  Within a short distance of the town there are many historic and natural sites to visit. Both the Sangke Grasslands and Ganjia Grasslands are home to many nomadic herders and can be reached by renting bicycle in town. To see forested areas surrounding a beautiful lake near a small Tibetan village, Darzong Lake is only a couple hours away. For those who do not wish to wander on their own, there are many guides who are willing to give walking tours of the surrounding area’s natural and amazing landscape.

    Shopping in Xiahe (Labrang)

    Along the main road in Xiahe there is a vast array of shops selling everything from jewelry and hand-crafted items to modern clothing and fabrics, made by hand from yak wool. Bargaining is a common sight among these shops and with a little negotiation, you will often get great prices. While you may find many unique and beautiful items here among this strip, one thing to stay away from is fur. Although not every fur item here is fake, there are enough in the market to make any visitor cautious. Some fake furs may contain real hide however, and are sometimes obtained illegally from endangered species.

    The Magnificent Labrang Monastery

    The most popular destination here by far is the Labrang Monastery. Some visitors spend days taking in its enormous temple and grounds. Built in 1709, the monastery was expanded over the years and has become one of six great monasteries of the Gelukpa sect of Buddhism in Tibet. Still an active monastery, there is a chance you will find the monks here engaged in a religious ceremony, while you wander freely through prayer halls, living quarters, and open grounds.

    Gongtang Chorten

    Like many monasteries, Labrang’s artifacts, walls, and history were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. During the 1980’s much of the monastery was rebuilt. Some additions are much more recent, such as the Gongtang Chorten. For a small price, you can climb this golden topped Chorten near the river.

    Man Jus’ri Temple

    One of the most impressive sites of the monastery however, is the Man Jus’ri Temple, housing several extravagant Buddha statues within its walls. Often, visitors can hear the monks’ chanting echoing through the halls. Beyond the temple, quietly sitting on a hillside, is the Thangka sunning terrace. Every Tibetan New Year, an enormous Thangka is displayed across this flat slope, but every other day of the year it is a great place to get a view of the entire monastery and the hills behind it.

     

     

  • Labrang Monastery

    Labrang Monastery

    In the Tibetan area of Amdo, the Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu, the Labrang Monastery(བླ་བྲང་དགོན་པ།) houses the largest population of monks outside of the Tibetan Autonomous Region. The site is a popular tourist destination and only a four-hour drive from the provincial capital of Lanzhou.

    History

    To Tibetan Buddhists this is one of the most important monasteries today and sits at a very strategic location between the two cultures of Mongolians and Tibetans. In the early years of the 20th century, it was the most influential and largest monastery in the Amdo region. It not only housed several thousand monks, but was also home to the largest Buddhist monastic university at the time.

    First founded in 1709, through the centuries it has been near the center of many gruesome conflicts and changes in the political landscape. Many of these conflicts, which have continued well into the 1950’s and beyond, have left their mark on the monastery’s legacy. Between 1917 and 1949, several riots and attacks took place against Labrang Monastery from the Chinese Muslim Ma clique, who even occupied the monastery at one point.

    The Assembly hall of the monastery was burned to the ground in early 1985, along with many of its religious and cultural artifacts. It was eventually replaced five years later with a new building.

    Visiting Labrang Monastery

    The monastery combines multiple architectural styles including traditional Indian Vihara and Tibetan styles, to create a beautiful and unique compound. The monastery is so large in fact, that you may need more than a day to see all it has to offer. The compound is made up of six learning institutes, a Sutra debate hall, eighteen separate halls and an abundance of Sutra housed here. Within the halls and Buddhist museum located inside, you can find a massive collection of Buddha statues, murals, and religious artifacts on display.

    During certain times of the year you may come across one of the many Buddhist ceremonies held here and due to its significance and size, many Buddhist festivals are celebrated here with debates, praying and huge ceremonies.

    Notable Stops

    There are several notable locations for visitors to see while in Labrang Monastery that have become popular with tourists over the years, including some new locations. The Thangka Sunning Terrace located on a hillside over a river, is a flat slope made of stone where you can get one of the best views of the Monastery and its surrounding landscape. During the Tibetan New Year, this is where the massive Thangka is unrolled for all to see.

    Many visitors make sure to stop and view the beautifully colored prayer wheels inside. These are continuously spun by pilgrims hoping for rewards in the next life; many also visit the newly built Gongtang Chorten, with its golden top and beautiful views. The most popular stop however, is the Man Jus’ri Temple located towards the rear of the main courtyard. Many pilgrims stop near the yak butter sculptures to make offering and pray to the living Buddhas contained in the silver Chortens nearby. The Temple also houses many extravagant Buddha statues and artifacts along its walls and often time the monks chanting can be heard echoing through the halls.

  • Kawa Gabo

    Kawa Gabo

    Highest Peak

    On the border of Zayu, Zogang, and Deqen County in Yunnan lies Kawa Gabo(ཁ་བ་དཀར་པོ།), the highest peak along the Meili Xue Shan, or the “Mainri Snowy Range”. As a whole, this peak and range are a part of the much larger Hengduan Shan, which borders the eastern side of the Tibetan Plateau as well as western Sichuan. With six peaks that reach over 6,000 meters and twenty more permanently covered in snow, the massive collection of mountains sits between the Lancangjiang River and the Salween River.

    Meili Snow Mountain 1.0
    Stupa in front of Kawa Gabo Mountain.

    History of the Climb

    The Kawa Gabo peak itself reaches 6,740 meters, and with dangerous vertical cliffs, it has created near impossible conditions to reach the summit. Numerous attempts have been made over the years, only to meet with tragic results. The primary attempt made by the Joetsu Alpine Club from Japan in 1987 had failed early on. Three years later the Academic Alpine Club from Kyoto University, paired with a Chinese unit, drew large protest from the Tibetans because of the mountain’s significance to their culture and religion. After moving ahead with the climb in spite of protests, the team was met with an avalanche on the night on January 3, 1991; all 17 individuals were presumed dead. The same club returned just five years later in 1996 to give another attempt, but had failed just as their predecessors.

    And finally, an American team guided by Nicholas Clinch made several unsuccessful attempts on different peaks along the mountain between 1988 and 1993. After years of failed attempts, death, injury, and protest, the government banned any future attempts in 2001.

    Kawa Gabo
    The sun hitting Kawa Gabo mountain.

    Protests Surrounding Kawa Gabo

    Tibetan Buddhists believe this mountain to be the spiritual home of the warrior God Kawagarbo and throughout Tibet, it is visited by over 20,000 visitors each year looking to make their 240 kilometer pilgrimage around the peak. The ancient shamanistic religion, Bön, believed in a world filled with good and evil spirits, many of which are still recognized and relevant today.

    Years of protests of climbing parties was due to the fact that Tibetans believe Kawagarbo will abandon them if any human reaches the peak. Stepping foot here would unleash disasters upon their villages and leave them unprotected by the Gods; this was not something the Tibetan people took lightly.

    The Retreating Mingyong Glacier

    From the east of Kawa Gabo, lies the sacred Mingyong Glacier, reaching into the Mekong River valley below. To signify its importance to their religion, two temples have been built on its lower edge.

    One of these temples however, Taizi Temple, holds a significance to the scientific community as well. It has been a key factor in observing the almost 7% decrease of the Mingyong Glacier annually. Many believe this is due to the warming climate in Deqin over the years. This climate shift’s impact on Mingyong Village’s water supply, as well as its considerable effect on the natural biodiversity of the area, has sparked the Chinese government to take control of the ecological systems in the area in an attempt to slow down the rate of melting. So far they have been successful in their efforts.

  • Trochu (Heishui)

    Trochu (Heishui)

    Trochu (ཁྲོ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), under the Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, is part of Sichuan Province. Most of the Tibetans found here are not Amdo speaking. In fact, they are part of a sub-group known as Gyarong, who are Qiangic speaking Tibetans. Known in Chinese as Heishui County (黑水), Trochu has something to offer for every visitor from modern luxuries and hotels to scenic routes and hiking tours of the Dagu Glacier.
    Monastery outside Heishui
    The monastery above Heishui.

    Food to Try

    In town, there’s a wide variety of restaurants. You can find authentic Tibetan cuisine, fast food franchises and Sichuanese restaurants of every kind. If you are on the run, there are plenty of locals selling food as street vendors. The smell of shaokao (Chinese BBQ) fills the air. Choose your skewered meats and vegetables for the vendor to grill. Make sure you tell him how much spice you can handle! Tibetan tea also has a long-standing history here. You can find it on almost every menu you come across.

    Lodging for Visitors

    There are numerous hotels to stay in around the area. Locally-run guesthouses are also available and can have a cozier feel without the luxuries of the larger hotels. They typically offer a comfortable stay for lower prices and much more space. For those going with the guesthouse option, you may also find yourself lucky enough to try some homemade barely wines, as well.

    Lake near Heishui.
    The view on the way to Heishui.

    The Scenic Tour of Heishui

    Visitors come to Heishui for the famous scenery and tours. Not far from town by way of a hike or backpacking tour, you will come across everything from majestic waterfalls to massive rivers and icy lakes. Travelers who find themselves in Heishui in Autumn should pay a visit to Cailin (pronounced “tsai leen”). Cailin means “Colorful Forest.” Between late September and early November the forest leaves change color. Every shade of gold, orange, yellow, and red speckles the mountainsides. The Heishui colored forest is the largest in Asia. This area is formed from the San’ao Mountains, Dagu Glacier and both Kalong Valley and Hongjun Valley. Some of the best views of the forest come from the Kalong Valley, where every aspect of Cailin’s beauty can be seen.

    Heishui Dagu Glacier Lift
    Reaching the Dagu Glacier near Heishui.

    Dagu Glacier: A Magnificent Site to See

    The most popular destination, however, is Dagu Glacier. And while the trip can be a little tiring and though high altitudes may bother some visitors, the views from the top are well worth it. The glacier site is open to visitors year round. However, as mentioned above, for the best views one should go in November.

    What a Ride!

    The journey to the top begins with a shuttle bus to the base of the glacier. During the shuttle ride, you’ll have plenty of chances to catch some great scenic views. After arriving at the base, a cable car takes you to the top of the glacier. The cable car ride provides great views of the lakes, rivers, and forests in the area. You may also spot a few of the many species of plant and animal life on the way up. The views from the cable car are almost as magnificent as the final destination itself. Once at the top of the nearly 5,000-meter peak, you finally have a view of the glacier and valleys. You’ll be able to see clearly how the glacier has dug in and shaped the great valleys below.

  • Dzongsar Monastery

    Dzongsar Monastery

    History of Dzongsar Monastery

    Throughout its dozen or so centuries of history, the Dzongsar Monastery (རྫོང་སར་དགོན།) has seen expansion, transformation, utter destruction and ultimately, rebirth. While it may not have been restored to its former glory, what the monastery has seen and accomplished over the years is nonetheless remarkable.

    Located in Dege County, in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan, the Dzongsar Monastery was founded in 746. From Dege town, it is roughly a 100km drive that takes a couple of hours due to a poor road. The first structure built here was the small Jowo-Lha-Chig-Kar-Chig temple along and shrine by a Bonpo Lama. Sometime between this event and 1275, the temple was changed into a Nyingma temple and then a Kadampa temple. In 1275 however, on a return trip from China, Drogön Chögyal Phagpa founded a new Sakya monastery on the site and has remained a part of that sect until this day.

    Until its destruction in 1958, Dzongsar Monastery housed nearly 500 monks and numerous other visitors who came to the monastery to speak with the monks there. The monastery had expanded to twenty-three temples and dozens more sacred and religious halls and rooms, several of which were retreat centers.

    Dzongzar monastery
    Dwellings for the Dzongsar monastic community

    Flexible Teachings

    Having changed sects on numerous occasions, the teachings here over the years have become very flexible with eight different sects being taught at the school currently. Prior to 1958, in conjuncture with its openness to different sects, Dzongsar Monastery housed a rare collection of Rime teachings and scriptures assembled by advocates of the Rime movement over the course of many years.

    1958 and Beyond

    Due to the violent nature of the rebellion in the late 1950’s in Tibet, all the temples at Dzongsar Monastery were destroyed including the only original structure from 746, the Bonpo Shrine. Starting from nothing, reconstruction on the monastery began in 1983 and today the monastery is only a fraction of its former glory with six temples being built since that time.

    A fair amount of construction was reserved for the rebuilding of residences to house the monastic population. Because of the reconstruction, there are more than two hundred monks housed on site today and the main temples cover an area of roughly 12 acres. After years of sitting without use, the monastic school continues with its policy of openness and flexibility in its teachings.

    Dzongsar valley
    View of the valley from the ridge above Dzongsar monastery

    Incense

    In addition to being known for its history, reconstruction and openness, Dzongsar Monastery is also known for its incense. Dzongsar Tibetan Incense Sticks and Dzongsar Tibetan Incense Powder are the two commercially sold brands from the monastery. The incense has grown popular over the years and is even said to have a kind of healing effect on the mind, body and soul. Created from the natural herbs of the Eastern Tibetan highlands, many say the powerful incense can even prevent infectious diseases.

  • Palyul (Baiyu) Monastery

    Palyul (Baiyu) Monastery

    Location

    Initially built in 1665,  Palyul Monastery (དཔལ་ཡུལ་དགོན།), also known as Baiyu Monastery( 白玉寺） in Chinese  sits above the many homes along the hillside, at the center of a small village in the Ganzi Prefecture in the western part of Sichuan province. The monastery overlooks the town and valley below with an elevation around 3,150 meters. Sticking with the traditional style of Tibetan architecture and planning, the monastery and surrounding homes are built on the slope of the nearby mountain. At its peak, Baiyu Monastery housed hundreds of monks from all over, many of whom travelled great distances from affiliated branch monasteries.

    The Temples

    Baiyu Monastery is one of the six “Mother Monasteries” that follow the Nyingma school of thought, or the Ancient Translation Tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery was founded by Kunzang Sherab, who was the first throne holder as well. In addition to establishing the monastery, he also built several temples that hold enormous significance to the Tibetan monks today.

    One of those important temples, The Chagrakhang, contains a gilded image made of copper depicting Jowo Shakyamuni in the form of Jowo Yeshin Norbu. The Temple also includes frescoes of the Namcho deities and in addition to other extravagant temples and halls, Baiyu Monastery contains an incredible library as well as the Dorsem Lhakhang.

    Life in Baiyu Monastery

    Just past the main halls, the monastery houses its own printing press. Although a small system, it is a very common sight on the second floor of the main hall to see carvers work diligently at crafting delicate scripts here in reverse for printing. Wandering the temples, halls and town nearby, you may also run into some of the 200 monks who are housed at the Baiyu Monastery. While the village has amenities for the monks and villagers to live here, there really isn’t much else to offer for visitors. Other than the Jixiang Hotel, the town itself has no restaurants or guesthouses for tourists to stay and eat at, although if you are lucky, you may find a welcoming villager or monk who will offer you room and board and the possibility of a home-cooked meal. The stupa is a popular gathering area where striking up a conversation with the villagers isn’t uncommon.

     

  • Yak Butter Tea

    Yak Butter Tea

    Yak Butter Tea (འོ་ཇ། )

    Probably the most quintessential Tibetan food. Visitors to Tibet either love it or hate it. If you’ve been to 10 different places in Tibet, you have likely had 10 different varieties. In Shangri-la, peanuts are ground into the tea. In Danba, they put walnuts in it. Some yak butter teas are very bland. Some are very salty. Tsampa may be added to some versions to make it a bit thicker. So if you didn’t like Yak Butter Tea (འོ་ཇ།) the first nine times, try it again. All varieties of Yak butter tea have the following five ingredients in common: black tea, water, milk, salt, and butter.

    Getting Fresher

    Some varieties of Yak butter tea use slightly rancid butter. This is usually because of a lack of supplies or bad refrigeration. As the standard of living has risen in Tibet, rancid yak butter tea has become much less common. As Yak butter tea has gotten fresher, demand for it among non-Tibetans has risen dramatically. Tibetan tea shops are popping up by the dozens. We usually tell visitors, “don’t think hot drink; think soup.” That usually sets expectations more properly and goes a long way to help initiates enjoy their first experience.

    Tibetan woman making Yak Butter Tea.
    A Tibetan woman makes Yak Butter Tea the old-fashioned way.

    A Meal in itself

    Yak butter tea is the most common drink on the plateau. Some nomads drink more than 30 cups a day. Its rich, salty content provides warmth, fats, protein and a bit of caffeine to provide abundant energy for the harsh Tibetan climate. In Tibet, it’s not uncommon to see snow in summer. And winters can get to 20 to 30 degrees below zero (celsius). The butter in the tea also helps Tibetans fight chapped lips.

    Heartwarming, too

    Yak butter tea conjures up the same warm fuzzies for Tibetans that “hot chocolate” does for Americans or “Chai” for Indians. Yak butter tea has received some popularity in recent years, as the inventor of Bullet Coffee (which is a blend of natural butter and coconut oil in coffee) credited his idea to this traditional Tibetan beverage. If you try a cup of Tibetan yak butter tea on your next trip to Tibet, give it at least five tries before you make your final judgment. As an American having traveled extensively in Tibet, I can honestly say there is no other drink I prefer more when I’m on the plateau. And when I’m elsewhere, I’m still happy with my hot chocolate.

  • Chabcha (Gonghe)

    Chabcha (Gonghe)

    Among the grasslands of Qinghai province, sitting in its own valley, lies the ever growing town of Chabcha (ཆབ་ཆ།). Known in Mandarin as Gonghe (共和县), this prefectural capital of Hainan has everything from crowded markets to beautiful landscapes and over the years has become a center point for transportation and goods due to its geographical proximity to many other attractive locations.

    To the north of Chabcha, you can see the edge of Lake Qinghai, the largest fresh water lake on the Qinghai-Tibet plateau and a popular grazing location for local nomadic herders. Nomadic practices were historically predominant and spread throughout most of Asia. These grasslands were perfect for raising livestock as opposed to growing crops in an unsuitable terrain. It is thought that because of these grasslands, the nomadic populations of the region were able to occupy and colonize the area much earlier than other parts of Asia. Among the grasslands above, you can still find many nomads camping and raising livestock.

    Surrounding the town are several monasteries and temples, including the Panchen Lama Memorial Stupa. Here the monks have started selling butter candles to both pilgrims and tourists alike, as a source of income. These efforts were put in place to fund efforts to increase international tourism and have since been very helpful. Not far from here you can also find the Jiayi Temple as well.

    One of the most notable locations in the area is the branch campus of Qinghai Normal University. Founded in 1956, QHNU has become one of the key universities at the provincial level in China with major focuses on Science and Liberal Arts. Since then the university has established 2 more colleges, 14 departments, a research institute, and 3 branch locations, including the site in Chabcha (Gonghe). It is very common for students to begin their education at this site before moving on to finish their degrees at the university’s main campus.

  • Shigatse (Rikaze)

    Shigatse (Rikaze)

    Also known as Rikaze (日喀则), Shigatse (གཞིས་ཀ་རྩེ་ས་) is the second largest city in Central Tibet. It is a prefectural capital city with a population of over 700,000, and is most famously known for Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery is home to the Panchen Lama, the second highest lama in the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, and best survived the excesses of China’s cultural revolution. It still functions as an active monastic community today. Shigatse is easily accessed by road, rail or air from Lhasa, the provincial capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Tourists typically stop through on their way to Everest Base Camp and Nepal, therefore it is known as the “Gateway to Everest.”

    The fastest and most direct way to Shigatse from Lhasa by vehicle is the newer Friendship Hwy (also known as the northern Friendship Hwy) that links Tibet with Nepal. This is a 270km trip that takes 5 hours due to strict speed control. It follows the Yarlung Tsampo river valley for most of the route where the farming lifestyle on the Tibetan plateau can be seen along the way. There is also a popular scenic route along the “old” Friendship Hwy that takes you over the Khamba La pass for a sweeping view of Yamdrok Lake, past the Karola Glacier, and through Gyantse – home of the largest stupa in Tibet. Most travelers will request to take the scenic route on one of the directions when traveling to and from Shigatse. A three hour train ride is an option as well.

    Shigatse tashilungpo
    Entrance to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.

    While in Shigatse, a tour of Tashilhunpo Monastery is essential. For those interested in visiting the various chapels and halls within the monastery grounds it is best to go in the morning before they get locked up for lunch soon after 12:00pm. Photographers be aware that photography fees are collected in each chapel and can be as expensive as RMB 150 per chapel! Travelers can opt to join both the locals and pilgrims from afar to do the lingkhor (“holy path”) around the monastery. There are essentially two routes that can be taken. First, is the path around the immediate monastery grounds that can take up to one hour depending on your pace. There is also a longer route that takes you over to the Shigatze Dzong (fort), destroyed in the 1960s but rebuilt in 2007, which can take up to three hours. The fortress perches over the town and resembles the Potala Palace. Walking the lingkhor, or Kora, is a great way to mix with the locals, get some wonderful photos, and further acclimatize spending a day at 3,800 meters above sea level.

    As most cities in China are growing rapidly in modernization, this town is no exception, meaning there are several good hotel options available. The Gesar Hotel, though not as convenient to the city center, has beautiful Tibetan themed rooms, a decent breakfast, and several good restaurants nearby. The Manasarova Hotel is in the city center, also Tibetan themed, but older and getting a little run down.

  • Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

    Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

    Also known as Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ། )in Tibetan, (珠穆朗玛峰 in Chinese), the mere mention of the name “Everest” already evokes enough pictures in our imaginations: ice axes, climbing ropes, avalanches, sherpas, basecamps and lots and lots of snow. The tallest point from sea level on planet earth (8,848m) is assisted to its dizzying heights by the craggy edge of the vaulted Tibetan plateau that it rests on. Since Sir Edmund Hilary’s successful summit in 1953, tens of thousands of climbers have attempted to add their names to the list. Some have given their lives trying. There are over 200 corpses on this mountain, and their remains are humbling reminders of the difficulty of the quest.
    Approaching the mountain.
    The approach to the mountain.

    Less known facts about Everest are that it sits on the China Nepal border-the north face on the China side (also known as the “Tibet side”) and the south face on the Nepal side. There are two approaches to climbing this mountain, known respectively as the “South Col Route” and the “North Col Route.” There are two “Everest Base Camps,” on each respective side of the mountain. In fact, there are more than that at different elevations on the climb to the summit. However, tourists without a climbing permit can only visit the lowest Base Camp on either side. Which camp you plan to visit depends on which country you are in: China or Nepal. There is no border crossing at Mt. Everest, although there used to be a border crossing at Dram (Zhangmu) about an eight-hour drive to the West (on the China Tibet side). However, since the Nepal earthquakes in 2015, that border has been closed and another in the Gyirong Valley (even farther west) has been opened in its stead.

    Everest Base Camp
    Windhorses (prayer flags) flap in the wind outside of the base camp.

    The mountain is named in English after Sir George Everest who was the Surveyor General of India in the early 1800s. The original Tibetan name of the mountain, Mount Qomolangma, means “Holy Mother.” The Chinese also refer to the mountain as 圣母峰 － Shengmufeng (“Holy Mother Peak”). One Chinese perspective is that the mountain should not be referred to as “Everest” as that name was prescribed by foreign English geological surveyors in the late 19th century, but should rather be referred to internationally as Qomolangma. The Chinese transliteration of Qomolangma, 珠穆朗玛峰, has been established since the early 18th century.

    Mt. Everest at night.
    Mt. Everest by night.

    As of early 2015, there is a paved road from New Tingri to Everest Basecamp on the China (Tibet) side. The North Face of Everest arguably offers the most stunning views of the mountain. Many consider the north side views of Everest as the best. The ease of access on the China side has attracted much more tourism, though numbers of tourists are still lower on average than the Nepal side. On the north side, Chinese tourists are the vast majoriy. On the south side, foreign tourists outnumber local Nepalese.

    Tent hotel at Everest
    Inside a tent hotel at Everest.

  • Tsetang ( Zedang)

    Tsetang ( Zedang)

    Nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yarlung Tsampo River basin, Tsetang (རྩེད་ཐང་།) was the perfect place to start a new civilization. Referred to as Zedang in Chinese (泽当), Tibetans consider this quaint city the birthplace of their people. According to legend, the union of an ogress and a monkey led to the first Tibetan people. Regardless of how you believe the first Tibetans got to the Yarlung Tsangbo River valley basin, history does attest to this region being the cradle of the earliest Tibetan civilizations on the Qinghai Tibet Plateau. The Tibetan peoples spread out from Zedang over time, venturing to less fertile, harsher areas. The famed first emperor of the entire Tibetan plateau (33rd king), Songtsan Gampo and his father hail from this area.
    Overlooking Tsedang
    Zedang is nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yearling River basin.

    Visiting Zedang

    As the fourth largest town in Tibet, Tsetang city is a bustling town with modern streets. It is the capital city of Shannan Prefecture with nearly 16,000 residents and governs 13 other counties in the region. There is little about the town itself that would merit a visit, but the surrounding area is full of history and beauty. Accommodation options are limited in this remote town, but the Tsetang Hotel offers surprising comfort with decent wifi and friendly staff. Breakfast is passable but certainly not memorable, while other meals would be best enjoyed somewhere else in town.

    Around Tsetang

    Samye monastery is known as the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and is only 30 km from Tsetang. It is a must see. In closer proximity (9km) is Yumbulagang, the first Tibetan palace for the first king of Tibet from the second century BCE. Songtsan Gampo used this as a summer palace in the seventh century CE and it was converted into a Gelugpa sect monastery in the 16th century CE. Yumbulagang is considered the oldest known dwelling in Tibet and its location combined with the style of construction makes it feel more like a fortress than a palace. The easy climb up the winding stairs is well worth the view of the valley from the top and visitors are permitted to enter the small chapel of this ancient palace turned monastery.

    Samye Monastery
    Samye Monastery Tsetang

    South of Tsetang lies the vast Himalaya Mountain Range that stretches across the southern border of the Tibetan plateau, and to the north of town are the Nyanchen Tanggula mountains. It is in between these two ranges that the Yarlung Tsampo river runs and the valley becomes the widest and most fertile in the Tsetang area. The city sits on the south bank of the river. A popular three day trek in the area begins from Ganden Monastery outside Lhasa and heads south over the Shugu La and Chitu La passes before arriving at Samye Monastery (alternatively you can do it the other direction of course). From there you can hire a local vehicle to take you the 30km to Tsetang.

    Transportation

    It is a three and a half hour drive (160km) from Lhasa to Tsetang. The trip involves retracing the route to the Lhasa Gonggar Airport, before following the Yarlung Tsampo River as it flows east to Tsetang. Due to its proximity to the airport, some travelers choose to visit Tsetang before going to Lhasa. Besides avoiding retracing your steps after going to Lhasa, the big benefit to visiting Tsetang first is the lower elevation (the town sits at 3100m, more than 500m lower than Lhasa) which helps travelers adjust more naturally to the high elevation of the Tibetan plateau, especially on the first night.

     

  • Namtso Lake

    Namtso Lake

    Located in Central Tibet, on the south side of Namtso Lake (གནམ་མཚོ།), travellers will find a lakeside tourist town selling souvenirs, hot sweet milk tea, selfies with yaks, and very basic accommodations. The route from the 109 highway will lead travellers straight to this town located at the base of the Tashi Dor peninsula. Peak season at Namtso Lake exhibits a carnival atmosphere that is both fun and overwhelming. The fun is found in meeting travellers from all over the world in a remote wonderland of beauty. The over the top side of things is a result of too-eager locals seeking to capitalize on the commercialism in the area. Be aware of people offering pictures with their animals, for which they subsequently request payment beyond what you were expecting. Nonetheless, the hotels have pretty fast internet, and the milk tea hits the spot. The Tashi Dor Monastery with the accompanying hermit caves are located just beyond town on the peninsula.
    Namtso Lake with a mountain backdrop.
    Visitors on the shore of Namtso Lake.

    If you are up for a hike, the 40-minute climb to the top of the Tashi Hill is your best option. There is usually a stream of people heading in the same direction, which makes the trail easy to find. But really, it’s hard to get lost. It’s a narrow peninsula, so just head toward the lake up the hill. You may need to stop a few times on the way up, because, you are approaching 16,000 feet in elevation (4,800 meters). Half-way up, there is a nice view of the lake and fairly decent view of the sun’s descent. Most tourists stop here then turn around. Keep going to the end. It’s very worthwhile. After another 20 minutes of climbing, an almost 360 degree body of water comes into view. The silver, shimmering surface reflects the deep blue sky and the bright colors of the sunset. The colors in the sky change so quickly, that after your 400th shot of the same horizon, your finger begins to tire and your ISO can’t go any higher.

  • Potala Palace

    Potala Palace

    Located in Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region, one can find the famous Potala Palace(  ཕོ་བྲང་པོ་ཏ་ལ། ). As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this remarkable set of buildings is visited by thousands of tourists daily. “Potala” itself comes from the Hindi name of a mountain in Southern India, while in Sanskrit it means, “The Abode of the Buddha.” Construction of the palace began in 1643 and was completed (the white part of the building) in 1694 under the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama. The Potala was home to each successive Dalai Lama, until the construction of Norbulingka Summer Palace in the late 18th century (also one of Lhasa’s three UNESCO sites), at which point the Potala became their primary winter residence.

    The site of the Potala Palace is significant because it is built on top of a cave that King Songtsan Gampo fled to in exile during the 8th century after his father was assassinated Julius-Ceasar-style by his ministers. It was Songtsan Gampo that established Lhasa as the new center of political and religious power in Tibet.

     

    Potala Palace at night.
    The Potala Palace at night makes for a stunning photo.

    Previous to the Potala Palace, the seat of political and religious authority in Tibet was the Drepung Monastery, also located in Lhasa. The Drepung Monastery is of the Gelugpa sect, which practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”

    The Potala Palace is one of the highest altitude palaces in the world, sitting on Marpo Ri (“Red Hill”) above Lhasa. The palace itself is a construction of over 1000 rooms, and was completed in two parts. The White Palace (Kharpo Podrang) was built first, and was a nine story undertaking that took 3 years. The Red Palace (Marpo Podrang), has a little more of an interesting history. Some believe that the fifth Dalai Lama had the Red Palace built with the intention that it would be his funerary chörten. While that is debated, it is agreed that in 1682, twelve years prior to the completion of the Red Palace, the 5th Dalai Lama died, and the chief minister under him concealed his death until the Palace could be completed to prevent the construction being terminated.

    A pilgram's Kora around the Potala Palace
    A pilgram walks the Kora around the Potala Palace.

    Visiting the Potala Palace

    When visiting the Potala Palace, travellers will often rely on their guide to secure them entry. During high season, the Palace has a quota in place to help deal with the number of tourists attempting to see this world renowned site. As a result, the day before you intend to visit, your guide will need to go to an office before noon to reserve your time slot. During the winter months (November to April), you should be able to buy a ticket on the spot.

    While photography inside the Potala is prohibited, the outside is fair game. Enjoy the stunning palace grounds, and magnificent architecture that this palace is known for. Climb the massive ambling staircase to enter the front of the palace, but be warned that if you are still adjusting to Lhasa’s altitude, it may take longer than one might expect. Once inside, gaze at the exquisite murals, examine some of the personal effects of the Dalai Lama, and view a number of chapels (amongst so much more), before exiting the rear of the Palace.

  • Zhangmu (Dram) Border Crossing

    Zhangmu (Dram) Border Crossing

     

    *UPDATE JUNE 2016: due to the Nepal earthquake in April 2015 this border is still closed due to reconstruction. Overland travel between Tibet and Nepal is not possible. An alternative border crossing at Kyirong is expected to open in the summer of 2016.

    Zhangmu border crossing is in Zhangmu 樟木 town, known as Dram འགྲ་མ in Tibetan, on the Tibet side of the Tibet-Nepal border. The town sits high above the bridge that forms the border. It is more like a chaotic village strung along the narrow road that winds its way up the precipitous banks of the Tibet side of the river. Transport trucks constantly clog the road and it can be painstakingly slow to pass through the town to or from the border. It strikes you immediately as the kind of place no one would choose to live in, but a place that clearly offers job opportunities that those unfortunate enough to locate here are seeking. The narrow street is brimming with a mix of Tibetans, Chinese, and Nepalese. If you absolutely must overnight here, your best option is the Zhangmu Hotel with an okay breakfast and decent food at the restaurant across the street.

    It is a few hundred meters from the lower part of town to the Zhangmu border crossing. As you can imagine, the border is formed by a river and the crossing is a bridge, affectionately named the “China Nepal Friendship Bridge.” Your driver can only take you so close, so you may have to roll your luggage a couple hundred meters to the immigration line. Before you jump in line, be sure to peer over the edge and take a picture of the bridge and the river.

    Last pass before Zhangmu
    Last pass before the steep descent to the Zhangmu border crossing

    After going through security, you wait in line for passing through immigration. At any point in this process, a Nepalese person may approach you and ask if you need a ride in a vehicle on the other side. Negotiate if you like, but our recommendation would be to take him up on the offer. The starting price for one seat to Kathmandu (as of June 2014) was around 1,500 rupees (or 100 yuan). If you have a small group and want to rent a whole vehicle (all eight seats), the starting price will be around 9,000 rupees (or 600 yuan). As soon as you exit the China side immigration, your newly hired driver will carry your bags and walk you through the Nepal side customs. Ours even helped us fill out our visa forms and get through the visa line quickly. Overall, hiring the driver was money well spent. If you decide to take the public bus, be prepared for twice as many riders as seats and any amount of stops along the way. Our private driver made it to our destination near Kathmandu in two and a half hours, while we heard the bus takes four hours or longer.

  • Peiku Tso

    Peiku Tso

    Imagine you are a flea on the head of a king with a crown of peaks all around you. The stretch of road on the way to Peiku Tso is something like that. The king’s forehead is facing south with the crown jewel set upon the tallest point – Shisapangma – the 8,013 meter point that is the highest mountain completely within China. The plain that forms the valley between these majestic points is arid and cracked from the baking sun. Nearly 20 kilometers away you begin to see an almost fluorescent blue line on the horizon in the west. It wisps and worms in the heat waves. It is so blue, you think perhaps it is a mirage. It makes the clean deep blue sky look gray in comparison. The road takes you within a kilometer at its nearest point to the lake. The wind nearly blows your hat off as you approach the water and you see what seems to be the white crash of waves on the shoreline. But when you arrive, you are amazed to find there are no waves – in fact, hardly any ripples on the water. And the white strip you saw from a distance is actually a five meter wide strip of dried salt all along the shore. At eye level the lake seems pretty ordinary and you realize it had pulled some mirage-like tricks on you from a distance. The neon turquoise line you saw from a distance no longer appears as stark. But the setting of this jewel among these snowy gods and cotton ball clouds is priceless.

    Peiku Tso Lake
    Lake Peiku Tso from a distance.
    The 45 minute drive from the Friendship Highway to Peiku Tso is at least half the joy of this journey. Enjoy snapping pics from your vehicle at 80 km per hour. Make sure you have plenty of space on your memory card!  You may also enjoy the view of Peiku Tso from the Shisapangma Basecamp. At around 5,800 meters, it is about a two hour drive from the ticket entrance of the road. From there you can enjoy a more comprehensive view of Peiku Tso’s beauty and shape.

  • Drepung Monastery

    Drepung Monastery

    Historically, the most significant monastery in Tibetan Buddhism, Drepung Monastery(འབྲས་སྤུངས་དགོན་པ།) used to be the seat of political and religious power in Tibet (before the Potala Palace was built). This significance came in part due to its location just outside of Lhasa, and in part due to it being the primary seat of the Gelugpa sect. The Gelugpa sect practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, and it is also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”

    Drepung was founded in 1416 by a monk by the name of Jamyang Chöje, who was a disciple of Tsongkhapa (a reformer and the founder of the Gelugpa sect). Jamyang Chöje was a very charismatic monk, and within one year of completing the monastery, Drepung already had over 2000 monks living there. At its peak, Drepung Monastery used to be home to over 15,000 monks and was one of the most prestigious Buddhist institutions in the land. Now, there is a meager 300 monks living in Drepung and its sheer size makes the place feel almost like a ghost town.

    Today the monastery holds seven colleges – Gomang, Loseling, Deyang, Shagkor, Gyelwa, Tosamling, Dulwa, and Ngagpa – and each teach different aspects of Tibetan Buddhism.

    Visiting Drepung Monastery

    Approximately 8kms west of Central Lhasa, and placed high on a steep mountainside, travellers will find Drepung Monastery. The alleyways are walled and narrow, and feel labyrinthine. The main meeting hall is massive and it is said it can fit up to 7,000 monks at a time. It is the largest meeting hall I have ever seen in a monastery. Adjacent to it is the kitchen, which is also said to be the largest kitchen in Tibet. It is easy to believe as the pots they use for cooking look like small swimming pools … for elephants.

    drepung_monastery_kitchen

    Surrounding the monastery one will see a great number of residences with white roofs. Due to it’s location on Mount Gephel, and the number of white roofs that were required to house 15,000 monks, Drepung garnered the name of “rice heap” monastery.

    Everywhere you look in Drepung is an opportunity for a photo, so keep your finger on the trigger. Be aware though about taking photos inside the temple areas and meeting halls. Usually there is a 20 to 50 yuan charge for photography inside these rooms.

    drepung_monastery_kora

  • Samye Monastery

    Samye Monastery

    History of Samye Monastery

    Two hours drive southeast of Lhasa sits Samye Monastery(བསམ་ཡས་དགོན་པ།) – the oldest Buddhist training institution in Tibet, established in the lifetime of Padmasambhava in the eight century. The temple monastery compound is enclosed by a circular brick wall. It is said that from above, the circular wall and its contents resemble a Mandala – a Hindu and Buddhist representation of the universe. Mandalas are typically balanced uniformly with circle, square and triangle shapes throughout. Legend has it that Samye was constructed as a joint partnership between humans and demons – humans worked on it through the day and demons worked through the night.

    Visiting Samye

    Travelers can purchase an entrance ticket and enjoy access to the temple. There are three main levels to the temple in the center. The main level is stylistically Tibetan; the second level has a Chinese influence; and the third level, Indian. Though Samye Monastery now belongs to the majority Gelugpa sect, it still leans heavily toward its Nyingma sect origins, which is Tantric in nature. All around the typical cast of idols, there are offerings of tsampa and butter in overtly phallic molds. There are four identical stupas, apart from their color, outside the four corners of the temple. If you enjoy photography, a decent photo can be got of the whole compound from a hill nearby.

    There is a convenience store oddly placed within the temple grounds. Surprisingly, the store has many import foods and drinks that are difficult to find in other areas in China. If you’re thirsting for a vanilla Coke, you have come to the right place!

    Transportation

    Visiting Samye is a day trip from either Lhasa or nearby Tsedang. Some people prefer to head directly to Tsedang after arriving at Lhasa Gonggar Airport and begin their trip by visiting the cradle of Tibet’s civilization (including Samye). As with travel throughout all of Central Tibet, you must pre-arrange transportation through the travel company that arranged your Tibet Travel Permit (TTP).

  • Ganden Monastery

    Ganden Monastery

    Located 50 km northeast of Lhasa, Ganden Monastery (དགའ་ལྡན་དགོན་པ།)is a relatively quick trip outside of Lhasa for visitors who wish to see the monastery, and enjoy the beautiful view of the valley below. Ganden Monastery is the biggest of the Gelugpa Monasteries, and was the first founded in the sect.

    Tsongkhapa was the founder of the Gelugpa sect (also known as Geluk), and through his work, he is revered as a reformer of Tibetan Buddhism. With the support of the local authorities and the people, Tsongkhapa founded Ganden Monastery in the 15 century. In order to enlarge the influence of the Gelugpa sect, and to help Tibetan Buddhism with the chaotic and disordered situation, Tsongkhapa performed the first Monlam Prayer Festival in Lhasa. This festival gathered more than 10,000 local people, monks, and nuns to pray, and even today the Gelugpa sect still keeps the tradition of the Monlam Festival alive. Starting after the Tibetan New Year, the festival lasts for 15 days and many come together around the community to perform rituals, pronounce blessings, and of course, to pray.

    Kedrub Je and Gyatsab Je were the most influential of Tsonkhapa’ students, and when Tsonkhapa passed away in 1411, the abbotship of the monastery passed to these two students. These students were also the next in line to hold the post that came to be known as the Ganden Tripa – a position earned through merit, and is the title given to the leader of the Gelugpa sect. Thus, the Ganden Tripa transmission system was established, and today over 100 scholars have held the position.

    Currently there are a couple hundred monks living in the Ganden Monastery, and guests are welcome to watch and observe as monks debate, chant their prayers, and go about their daily life. Some visitors take a few minutes to meditate and pray themselves, although there is no expectation placed on guests to do so if they do not feel comfortable. As with any monastery, the primary expectation is that guests would be respectful in their observation, and that they would not be disruptive of those who are there to worship.

  • Kang Rinpoche (Mt. Kailash)

    Kang Rinpoche (Mt. Kailash)

    Mt. Kailash (Kang Rinpoche/གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ) in Western Tibet (TAR) is one of the most venerated religious sites in the world. Four separate religions consider the mountain holy, so it is no surprise that it is pilgrimaged by thousands each year. Conceivably, that number would most likely be greater if it weren’t so difficult to obtain permits to the area. Kailash is viewed by many in the Hindu-Buddhist worldview as the center of the world. Theories regarding its supernatural power abound, with some even claiming it is a pyramid that was built by aliens. Regardless of your personal belief, there are some very interesting facts about the mountain, many of which have only served to add to the various religious beliefs.
    Kailash Trekkers at the foot of the mountain.
    Kailash Trekkers at the foot of the mountain.

    Mt. Kailash: The Holiest Mountain

    Buddhism

    Mt. Kailash is believed to be the abode of Demchok and Dorje Phagmo. Demchok is one of the Buddhist gods, and is also known as Samvara. Dorje Phagmo is the highest female reincarnation, and the third highest person ranking in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama.

    No one has ever climbed Kailash, except the legendary Mila Repa (a sage), who apparently did battle with the forces of darkness on top of the mountain and won a victory for Tibetan Buddhism (see Bon below for the parallel).

    Of note for Buddhists is the natural shape on the south face of the mountain. Also called, “the Swastika mountain”, the South face appears to have a natural swastika running from top to bottom and from side to side. This swastika is the result of a vertical cleft running down the center of the rock face, combined with a layer of horizontal strata that appears to complete the symbol. The swastika is used to depict spiritual strength in Buddhism, thus only elevating the significance of this holy mountain.

    Hinduism

    Hindus have come to believe that Kailash is the mountain spoken of in their epic tales: Mt. Meru – home of the gods. As such, Kailash is believed to be the residing place of Shiva, the god of destruction, and his consort Pirvati. For Hindus, making the difficult pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash and viewing the darshan (divine view) of Shiva’s dwelling place is said to attain release from the clutches of ignorance and delusion.

    Jainism

    Mount Kailash is known by the Jains of India as Astapada. It is believed that this mountain was the place where the first of their saints (tirthankara) – one by the name of Rishaba – entered Nirvana.

    Bon (Ancient Tibetan Religion)

    To the Bon-po believers, the mountain is called Tise, and is held as the seat of the sky goddess Sipaimen. It is also said to be here that the Buddhist sage Mila Repa (as previously mentioned), battled the Bon shaman Naro Bon-chung to displace Bon as the primary religion of Tibet. This battle of sorcery between the two religions is said to have taken place during the 12th century.

    Kailash’s Natural Significance

    However you choose to regard the religious significance of this peak, you cannot argue with its natural beauty, and geographical significance. Mt. Kailash has four faces perpendicular to each other, and each face aligns perfectly with the four cardinal directions. Four great rivers originate from this mountain and flow into the Indian subcontinent (Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra, and the Karnali which feeds into the Ganges), and this area is also key to the drainage system of the Tibetan plateau. Tibetan Buddhists call the mountain Kang Rimpoche, the ‘Precious One of Glacial Snow’, as the peak is snowcapped year-round.

    Many travelers choose to trek around the base of Mt. Kailash and join the many pilgrims walking the kora around the mountain. The kora typically takes 3 days to complete (although it can be more) with Buddhists going clockwise, and Bon adherents counter-clockwise. Accommodation along the kora can be found in semi-permanent seasonal tents provided by local entrepreneurs making a living from both foreigners and local pilgrims alike. While hiking around the mountain is allowed, summiting the mountain is not. Permission has only been granted on a few occasions in history, none of which were successful in summiting. As could be expected, the sacredness of this mountain to the local Tibetan community means that there is significant resistance to climbers attempting to reach the summit. For the sake of peace, the Chinese Government maintains the mountain is off limits to climbers.

  • Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery (སེ་ར་དགོན་པ།) is one of the most beautiful monastery compounds you will see in Tibet, and one of Lhasa’s several great religious institutes. Built on the gentle slope of a mountain overlooking Lhasa, its white stone roads and walkways feel almost Mediterranean. The roads are lined with beautiful trees and the debating courtyard looks like a private garden for kings. It appears cleaner and better maintained than most of the other monasteries. As you walk into the main meeting hall, look to your left before you enter the door. On the wall is the Tibetan Buddhist Circle of Life. Make sure your tour guide explains to you all of the parts of the image, as it will help you better understand the Tibetan worldview. If you have time, also stop by the bookstore, which has all of the Buddhist scriptures in paperback form, including some volumes in English.
    Sera Monastery
    Entrance to the main meeting hall at Sera Monastery.

    Sera Monk Debates

    Don’t linger too long at the bookstore and miss the main attraction at Sera Monastery: the debates. Between 3 and 5 pm (Mon-Fri), young monks can be found scattered in groups of two to four all throughout the courtyard practicing their philosophy through debating one another. It is an interesting form of debate, as the speaker makes each of his points with his whole body. The thrust of his argument climaxing with raised voice and an enthusiastic clap of the hands downward toward his “opponent.” Some of them add their own flavor to the gesture, which makes things quite entertaining. Some of the monks can’t keep from laughing, and you won’t either!

    About Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery is part of the Gelgupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe. Sakya Yeshe was a disciple of Tsongkhapa, a revered reformer of Tibetan Buddhism, and the founder of the Gelgupa sect.

    The monastery sits in a northern suburb of Lhasa at the base of Pubuchok Mountain (or Tatipu Hill). The monastery is still said to include 28 acres, or 11 hectares, of land. At it’s prime, Sera Monastery held 5 separate colleges of instruction and 5000 monks, but the monastery today is significantly smaller in size. Unlike a lot of others, this monastery managed to escape complete destruction during the Cultural Revolution, primarily losing some of the buildings related to the smaller of its five colleges. As a result, Sera has undergone restorations, and guests today can still visit the three remaining functioning educational institutes.

    Sera Me College

    This college was founded with the monastery. It is known for teaching the fundamental precepts of Tibetan Buddhism.

    Sera Ngagpa College

    This is also one of the oldest structures at Sera Monastery. The college itself specializes in Tantric studies.

    Sera Je College

    Sera Je teaches itinerant monks from outside of the TAR, and is the largest of the three functioning educational institutes at the monastery.