Author: Jacinda Dickie

Bollywood Restaurant

Tucked away in the city of Chengdu, Sichuan, is the Bollywood Restaurant. Run by a local Tibetan named Wanjia, you will find this bustling eatery with a colorful flare serving up Indian rice bowls and nam bread. Yet don’t be fooled, as some of these dishes, while authentic to Indian flavor, can’t help but mix in a little Tibetan culture – can you say yak meat, anyone?
Wangjia is from the Yushu area, in the Kham region, with his hometown being the lowest altitude place in all of Yushu.

Wangjia received his education in China, and he speaks fluent Tibetan, Chinese, and English. He is a very outgoing, and knowledgeable Tibetan man. He realized there were some Indian restaurants in Chengdu, but most of them are far away from the Tibetan area of the city. With the Tibetan connection to Indian spiritually, he wanted one closer. The market research he undertook indicated that the Tibetan area of the city could support an Indian restaurant.

Various seating options allow any number of parties to come and try the Indian/Tibetan food

The Bollywood Restaurant is decorated in blend of Tibetan and Indian style. The restaurant invites guests to host parties in their space for up to 100 people, and there is a meeting room that can hold 20 people. There are 12 staff at the restaurant – all of them are young and enthusiastic Tibetans, two of which are family members, and all of them speak Tibetan, Chinese, and English. Most of their ingredients are imported from India because Wangjia wants to ensure both the quality, and that the food reflects true Indian cuisine.

Extravagant employees showing off some beautiful clothing

The Bollywood Restaurant has two unique products to try while you are there. One is Beef (Yak) Curry, which is one of the Tibetan/Indian fusion dishes that travelers must try. The other is Butter Nam, which is baked in a Tandoor stove using a very hot and fast cooking process.

Wangjia hopes that he can train more Tibetan chefs in the future. He also wants to expand his business to a chain of restaurants either in Chengdu, or to include other major cities. This expansion would hopefully require the training of even more Tibetan chefs in the future!

Contact Info:

地址：成都市武侯区高升桥北街成都A区高华二街69号【宝莱坞印度西餐厅】联系人: 义西求加

电话：15680755882 座机：028-85586914

Address: #69 Gaohua Second Street, First Ring Road, Wuhou District

P: 18782916774 (English speaker )

May 30, 2016
Tsering’s Homestay

Situated on the top of a mountain in the Amdo Tibetan Region, travelers can find Tsering’s Homestay. Overlooking a quiet valley, the farming community is a peaceful place to visit. With only 34 families in the village, one is never far from a pure view of the mountainside.
High on a mountain, you will find a small village in a valley

Tsering received both her bachelor and master’s degrees at a university in Chengdu. She is the only one who has gotten a master’s degree in her village. She values education and has seen the many benefits that she has received as a result of her studies. With this in mind, Tsering has organized workshops in her village to share the importance of education, and to encourage parents to send their kids to school. Tsering has also been assisting a few students in her village with their tuition by helping them to find sponsorship. Tsering loves her village, and by using her education, she wants to help her village flourish.

Tsering is very passionate about introducing Tibetan culture to people. When she was a student at university, she took some of her foreign friends and students to her village. Over the years, her friends and students (to whom she teaches English) have enjoyed staying with her family, exploring the village, hiking, and learning local culture. As a result, her and her family have experience in hosting tourists in their home. So far, her family is the only house in her village that receives tourists. Her hometown is a popular tourist destination, but not her village just yet. Although her house is not fancy, you will have a pleasant stay if you get the chance to visit.

Such breathtaking images shows an amazing landscape, who wouldn’t want to come here?

Tsering hopes that she can bring a positive impact to her community through her small business by educating the local people, encouraging young people to start their own small businesses, and by helping more students with their educational dreams.

By staying with Tsering’s family and having her as your tour guide, you will have the opportunity to experience authentic local Tibetan culture. Guests who have stayed with her family before have had a great time getting to know her family and some of the other villagers. Tsering’s parents think that it is their honor to have guests from all over the world, and they are happy to share their life and home with all of their guests.

Contact Info:

四川阿坝若尔盖县铁布麦刚村。

电话： 13882198591。

Address: Maigang Village, Conger Township, Ruoergai County, Aba Prefercture and Sichuan Province.

Phone: 13882198591

May 30, 2016
Tewaga Tibetan Restaurants

There are two Tewaga Tibetan Restaurants for travellers to enjoy. One in Tiewu (Amdo Region), and the other in Chengdu, operated by the same management.
One of the owners, Asang, is from North East Tibet. He was born a small village in a stunning valley called “Zhagana”. It is considered as one of the most beautiful places in the Amdo Tibetan Region.

Asang went to university in Chengdu where he majored in Tibetan studies. Asang is a very knowledgeable, yet humble man who speaks Tibetan, Chinese, and English. His wife is a well-known Tibetan singer, Karma Jangdrol Drolma. They are both very passionate about education and social entrepreneurship.

Opening of the new restaurant back in 2012. One can see the beautiful singer: Karma Jangdrol Drolma.

Together they opened their first Tibetan restaurant in 2006 in Tiewu county town, which is Asang’s hometown. They realized that a small business could make profit, but more importantly, business can help other people.

The first restaurant encouraged them to take next step, so they opened their second restaurant in Chengdu in 2012. They wanted to continue providing people with healthy and organic, local Tibetan food in the big city of Chengdu.

Healthy, organic Tibetan food offered to all in the big city of Chengdu

Now they have 12 employees in total. A previous employee even opened their own restaurant after working and learning skills for a few years at one of Asang’s restaurants.

Together, Asang and his wife want to continue offering more organic food to their clients, and to provide more job opportunities to Tibetans.

If you visit either restaurant, some of Tewaga’s popular dishes include their Tibetan hotpot, and yak ribs.

Contact Info:

总店地址：甘肃省甘南州迭部县扎尕那藏餐宫。联系电话：0941-5623333
Headquarters : Zhagana Tibetan Restaurant, Die Bu County Town, Gannan Prefecture, Ganshu Province. Phone: 0941-5623333

分店地址：成都武侯祠横街9号附2号，特瓦阁茶餐屋。
电话：028-85516122 18010599929
Branch: #9 WuHouCi HengJie, Chengdu.
Phone: 028-85516122 18010599929

May 30, 2016
Charu’s Coworking Space

If you make your way to the 16th floor of a seemingly unspectacular office building, you will discover a unique space that appears to be a cafe, but doubles as a shared coworking space for those looking to escape the office. Filled with books and artwork, an extrovert might find themselves a stimulating conversation to join, while and introvert may prefer losing themselves in one of the many books.
Charu Coworking Space was started in Chengdu by two energetic and positive Tibetan guys – Tsering Tashi and Tsehua. They have been friends for a few years now, and both of them have a similar passion for providing people opportunities to study, train, and exchange ideas.

With a western feel to it, Charu offers a home away from home for foreigners looking to escape Chengdu for awhile.

At the end of 2012, they founded a club called Norzang. The idea behind Norzang was to form a reading club or association for Tibetan entrepreneurs in all sectors and walks of life in order to encourage them to learn better, read more, and exchange even more ideas.

Tsering Tashi and Tsehua found that participants in Norzang needed space and opportunities to learn and exchange effectively in the group, so as a result, they had to think of a way to solve the problem for Norzang. With this motivation, Charu was born in 2015.

Charu is all about links. The name itself has a Tibetan meaning, coming from the word for the toggle that is used to connect all the parts of a black yak hair tent together. Tucked away on the 16th floor, Charu is not your ordinary coffee shop, it is a shared work space and a service centre for entrepreneurs. But you can enjoy the best Tibetan yak milk coffee or yogurt in town. Charu’s unique design combining traditional Tibetan and modern elements provides a friendly and warm space for those who are looking for a peaceful place to work, a different environment, a place to share, exchange, read, and learn. Charu’s is a place where you feel great about who you are and what you are doing, and a place where you feel welcome.

Beautiful view outside the window allows a glimpse at the massive city.

If you find yourself travelling to Chengdu, you can visit Charu to enjoy yak milk coffee, meet different people, browse the interesting book titles that line the shelves, or simply admire the beautiful Tibetan inspired décor that adorns the walls of this open and inviting space. Charu’s is worth the visit.

Contact Info:

四川成都市一环路南四段21号，A栋1单元1607,

电话： 13540871122.

Building A Unit 1, Rm 1607, No .21 First Ring Southern Section 4, Wuhou District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China. Phone：13540871122

May 30, 2016
A Re’s Restaurant

A Re is the name of a very well known chain of restaurants in Chengdu, but also that of the business owner. The namesake herself was born in a very alluring and remote Tibetan valley, Danba, in the Kham Tibetan Region.
A Re didn’t get the chance to attend school to get an education when she was a child, so she came to Chengdu 16 years ago to look for service-oriented jobs. This was her first time visiting Chengdu, and she was surprised to learn that there were no Tibetan restaurants in the area at the time. As a result, she came up with the idea of opening a restaurant in Chengdu, and introducing Tibetan food culture to the city through her restaurant. Fortunately for her, her brother supported her idea and was able to help her, so, A Re opened the first Tibetan restaurant in Chengdu.

Looking to have some traditional Tibetan food? A Re’s Restaurant has made sure you will find a wide variety of foods to try, from meat to vegetarian options.

Now, A Re runs 5 restaurants in Chengdu, two of which are solely vegetarian. She believes that eating healthy food is very critical to the well being of people, so she is continually looking to offer healthier food to her customers. While here, try the Tibetan style hotpot, noodles, or “pizza”.

The restaurant has provided a lot of job opportunities to Tibetans, and now employs over 70 staff. Of the employees, 90% of them are Tibetans.

A Re makes sure that all food is healthy and organic for her customers. She believes this is essential for the well being of all people.

A Re regrets that she couldn’t go to school, so she encourages young Tibetans to get education, and to use their education and skills to help their community. She has been providing training to people who are interested in working as restaurant mangers or chefs. So far, A Re has cultivated about 40 Tibetan restaurants managers and more than 100 Tibetan chefs in just the past few years alone.

Contact Info (for the original restaurant):

武侯祠大街234号(近南郊公园)

#234 WuHouCi Street (Near Jin Li Street)

P: 028-80836677 / 028-85570877

May 30, 2016
Yulshul (Yushu)

Mostly inhabited by Tibetans, Yushu (ཡུལ་ཤུལ།) is located in the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the southern Qinghai province of China. The town, also referred to as Jyekundo (སྐྱེ་དགུ་མདོ།), Gyêgu, Gyêgudo or Jiegu is a multi-ethnic town with Tibetan nomadic residents and Han Chinese traders. Yushu lies at an elevation of 4,000 meters and has the fountainheads of Asia’s three great rivers – the Yellow River, the Yangtze River, and the Mekong River. The rivers are part of the Sanjiangyuan National Nature Reserve in the region. Besides the Tongtian River Bridge, a stone column inscribed with the reserve’s name was given by the former president, Jiang Zemin.
Jyekundo Dondrubling Monastery

The Jyekundo Monastery is found on a hill overlooking Yushu Town and belongs to the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism. In the past, a Bon Temple was present on the site, but later in 1398, Jyekundo Temple was constructed in its place. It consisted of 16 temples and was home to around 500 monks before the earthquake of 2010 hit the area.

Gyanak Mani Temple

About 6 kilometers east of Jyekundo Town is the Gyanak (Jiana) Mani Stone Field which has an enormous collection of carved prayer stones depicting Buddha sculptures ad mantras. There are over 2 million prayer stones stacked on top of each other spread across a square kilometer and reaching a height of 3 meters. Pilgrims from across the region pay a visit to the temple and make koras of the stone pile.

Temple of Princess Wencheng

Located 20 kilometers south outside of Yushu Town, the temple honors Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty when she was on her way to Lhasa in the 7^th century. Every Tibetan New Year, devotees visit the temple and perform a kora. The area surrounding the temple consists of thousands of prayer flags and offers picturesque views of the grasslands below and snowy mountains far away.

Row of stupas in Yushu

Qinghai Yushu Horse Racing Festival

Every year on 25th July, a Horse Racing Festival is held in the grasslands of the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the Qinghai Province for sturdy Khampas to display their sportsmanship. The Yushu Horse Racing Festival is attended by Tibetan nomads across the Kham region, who set up tents for the week-long festivities. The warm weather transforms the valley into lush green spaces ideal for camping and horse racing. Apart from the traditional horse races, there is also folk singing and dancing, Buddhist ceremonies and various other sports and activities as part of the festival. Tibetan herbs and handicrafts are also widely sold during the event. Women dress in their best traditional gowns and ornaments, while monks are seen clad in red robes. The tribal men wear robes with tiger stripes or panther skins.

May 27, 2016
Nyiden (Yading)

Yading Village is small rural establishment in Daocheng County of the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province of China. Located on the eastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Yading village is 3,700 meters above sea level. Yading village and its surrounding sights are part of the Shangri-la Natural Tourist Zone. Yading in Tibetan is referred to as Nyiden (ཉིན་སྟེང་།), which means ‘facing the sun’. Yading Village serves as base for exploration to the breathtaking Yading Nature Reserve.
Field found in Yading with beautiful landscape of the mountains in the background, untouched by industrialization.

Yading Nature Reserve

Honored as the last Shangri-la, the last pure land on earth and the holy land in the sun, Yading Nature Reserve is characterized by snow-covered mountains, vast green meadows, crystal clear rivers, glacier-fed lakes, and dense forests. It occupies an area of 1,344 square kilometers and has an average altitude of well over 4,000 meters. This mountain sanctuary comprises of the three holy mountains that have an altitude of around 6,000 meters – Chenrezig, Jampayang, and Chenadorje. The Yading Reserve serves as an important Tibetan pilgrimage location as the Fifth Dalai Lama sanctified the three mountain peaks.

The three holy mountains are in a triangle formation cradling clear rivers, forested valleys, pristine lakes and exquisite wildlife. The area surrounding the three mountains is called Rigsum Gonpo. The highest of the three is Mount Chenrezig at 6,032 meters and signifies the Bodhisattva of Mercy. At the foot of the mountain is the clear Pearl Lake (Zhenzhu Hai). Mount Jambeyang, with an altitude of 5,958 meters, represents the Bodhisattva of Wisdom while Mount Chanadorje, with similar height, represents the Bodhisattva of Power.

Gongga Chonggu Temple

This 800-year old temple built during the Yuan Dynasty is now just fragments of broken walls as it has been severely damaged over the years. The remnants of Chonggu Monastery lie at the foot of Mount Chenrezig and consist of a Shijia sculpture in the chapel. Nevertheless, lamas can be seen reading Buddhist scriptures and murmuring religious songs at the Chonggu Monastery.

Luorong Pasture

Luorong Grassland is an elevated plateau (4,150 meters) that offers a spectacular vantage point of the three sacred mountains. It consists of lush green grass and winding streams and ponds. Not only does it offer a place for cattle and sheep to graze, but also lodging facilities to visitors.

Wusu (Five Color Lake) and Niunai Lake (Milk Lake)

The jewel like lakes in Yading are fed by glacier run-off. This one is known as “milk lake”

Milk Lake is created from a glacier runoff and boasts a milky turquoise color. It is bordered on one side by mountain-sized cliffs. Close to Milk Lake is the Five Color Lake which is surrounded by mountains on three sides and flows into the Zheduo River. Both these lakes are between Chenrezig and Jambeyang mountains and in sunlight, present an awesome burst of kaleidoscope colors.

May 27, 2016
Yachen Monastery

History of Yachen Monastery

Hidden away in a remote valley between Garze (Ganzi) town and Baiyu town, Sichuan, is the isolated Yachen Monastery ( ཡ་ཆེན་དགོན་པ།). Established in 1985 by a Nyingma Rinpoche, the current population of this monastic community is approximately 17,000 monks and nuns, with nuns holding the majority. Despite living conditions becoming more difficult and strains on supplies becoming more common as the population grows, people are still coming to the monastery to live and have shown remarkable perseverance in doing so.

A several story high image of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava) dominates the landscape at Yachen Monastery. This Indian tantric master is regarded to have established Buddhism in Tibet

Remote Living Conditions

Many people call the area surrounding this Nyingma Sect Monastery a camp, and they don’t seem to be very far off. At over 4,000 meters elevation, temperatures here can drop well below freezing at times, making living conditions dangerous. Yachen Monastery is simply running out of living space, yet the population continues to rise. Food and water shortages have recently become an issue, with supplies running dangerously low. Even clothing is scarce, adding health risks to the list of challenges this monastic community faces each and every day.

Electricity is almost nonexistent and there is only a short window from 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. where electricity is available for use. However, with a large portion of the population living in only tents and crudely constructed huts, electricity is not an option for everybody. While the monastery does not see too many visitors outside of the region, there are still a few places for visitors to stay. Most lack any bathroom or toilets with rooms that are often shared with other people, and keys are not provided. The exception is the large hotel on the right hand side as you arrive at the main gate. It has both decent rooms and good food in the attached restaurant. During the summer season, finding sleeping arrangements can be challenging for tourists, and it is highly recommended to bring ample amounts of water, food, and even camping equipment if necessary.

The winter landscape of the village and surrounding geography.

Lama Achuk Rinpoche

Most recently, Lama Achuk Rinpoche was the last to reside over the sect at Yachen Monastery. A former head of the Nyingma Sect in China, Lama Achuk Rinpoche was an incarnation of Longsal Nyingpo of Kathok Monastery, who was an incarnation of Amitabha Buddha. Born in 1927, he spent 43 years in retreat with Tulku Arik Rinpoche, his master. After becoming a realized Buddhist Master, he was highly regarded up until his passing in late 2011.

May 27, 2016
Chaktreng (Xiangcheng)

Located in the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Region of Sichuan province in China, the town of Xiangcheng (乡城) is in a scenic valley which stands at an altitude of 3,200 meters. Xiangcheng Town is also referred to as Chaktreng Town (ཕྱག་ཕྲེང་།) in Tibetan, which means ‘rosaries in Buddha’s hands’.

From a Small Village to a Bustling Town

Previously, Xiangcheng was a small village up in the highlands of northern Tibet. Relying heavily on agriculture, Xiangcheng Village was nestled between wheat paddy fields, and produced dairy products to sell across the county. Local Tibetans built large, cubical stone houses with white walls and colorful decorations around the windows, located alongside the Shuqu River. These small castle-like houses are very different from traditional Khampa houses and radiate a North African flair.

Today, Xiangcheng Town still has acres of wheat fields and traditional square houses, but has seen heavy development converting it into a bustling rural town. Hotels, restaurants, outdoor cafes and stores selling essentials and Tibetan artifacts have sprung up in town. Xiangcheng Town, is a beautiful valley village with a modern Chinese downtown.

History of Xiangcheng Village

Xiangcheng was regarded as the White Wolf State during the rule of Eastern Han, Three Kingdoms, Wei, Jin, and the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Since the Xiangcheng region is surrounded by huge mountains from all sides, it remained as a remote location along the ancient caravan route that connected Yunan with Sichuan and Tibet. Strategically located, Xiangcheng people had firm characters displaying ruthlessness and unfriendliness to outsiders. When Joseph Rock came to see the area more than 80 years ago, he found Xiangcheng difficult to access as it was ruled by Sashatimba, who was an outlaw chief living at the Sangpiliang Monastery.

Chaktreng Monastery

Chaktreng Monastery, also known as Chaktreng Gompa or Xiangcheng Monastery, was originally built in 1669 and belongs to the Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The Chaktreng Monastery stands above the town and provides great views of the agricultural valley and stone houses. The Chaktreng Gompa overlooks the Chinese Martyr’s Cemetery. The Chaktreng Gompa has been reconstructed beautifully by painters, carvers, and carpenters to reflect the original temple.

Bamu Mountain

Bamu Mountain falls just outside the two to the west and is an impressive peak of many granite spires. There are a lot of waterfalls, the famous Bamu Lake, bizarre stones, protected animals, and rare flora in the Bamu mountainous area. Bamu Mountain and Lake are spread over 432 hectares. Bamu Mountain is considered to be holy as the spirit Jawarenga is said to dwell in the mountain.

May 27, 2016
Windhorse

The Windhorse (དར་ལྕོག) is a legendary Tibetan creature, considered to carry prayers from the earth to the heavenly gods using the strength and speed of the wind. This basic symbol is thought to possess powerful energy—an energy that carries colossal power to the lives of all beings who come into contact with the wind.

Prayer Flags in front of Mt. Everest

Windhorse Prayer Flags

Also known as Lung-ta in Tibetan, the Windhorse coupled with the “Wish Fulfilling Jewel of Enlightenment” is an important symbol inscribed onto Tibetan prayer flags. Although they represent good fortune and luck, Tibetans believe they actually have the power to influence events in nature and society.

Windhorse prayer flags are the most common prayer flags among Buddhists. The image of the Windhorse is drawn on the center of the prayer flag while the outside corners are guarded by the four great animals (Four Dignities): garuda (wisdom), dragon (gentle power), tiger (confidence) and snow lion (fearless joy). These guardian animals can be represented in either pictorial form or as a written word. There are also inscriptions of sutras or mantras on the flag. It is said that when the Windhorse prayer flags flap in the wind, the spiritual powers of the sacred images and scriptures benefit all those in the area.

Hanging Windhorse prayer flags is considered an act of merit that increases positive opportunities. Prayer flags are hung from high points such as trees, eaves, or on wooden poles.

Prayer Flags over the road in the Everest region.

History and Significance of Prayer Flags

The history of prayer flags can be traced back to the Bon traditions in pre-Buddhist Tibet when Bonpo priests used colored flags in healing ceremonies. Each color represents a primary element: earth (yellow), fire (red), space (blue), water (green), and air (white). According to the tradition, when set up around the sick, these prayer flags created a balance of these five elements in the body producing high levels of mental and physical health. These colored flags were also hung in mountains, valleys, and lakes to please local gods and to receive their blessings. If the gods and spirits became unhappy, disease and natural disasters were believed to spread.

The Rise and Fall and Rise Again of Prayer Flags in China

When Buddhism first came to Tibet, Guru Rinpoche himself wrote scriptures and drew images on prayer flags. In the 15^thcentury, printing by wooden blocks was introduced. Famous Buddhist masters created prayer flag designs while lay craftsmen engaged in making copies. During the Cultural Revolution in Tibet, the hanging of prayer flags was discouraged, but today the tradition lives on.

Fallen Flags in the Mt. Kailash Region

May 27, 2016
Rebkong (Tongren)

The town of Rebkong (རེབ་གོང་།) in the Huangnan Prefecture has much to offer travelers. Known throughout the years for its art, monasteries, agricultural and mining community, and even for its cultural revolution, visitors can spend days taking in all this historic town has to offer. While the town of Tongren is known as such in Mandarin (同仁).
Its Humble Beginnings

The town that was established around the Longwu Monastery centuries ago in 1301, and would eventually come to form an administrative system that seamlessly combined the Chinese dynastic rule of the time with Buddhism. The town and Monastery were both widely expanded upon during the Ming Dynasty and had turned what was considered a useless region, into a flourishing town mostly filled with soldiers. Today, the monastery is the home of three separate academic institutions, houses several hundred monks, and sees visitors from around the world on a daily basis.

The architecture for the monestary is full of wild colors and designs.

Beauty In Art

Longwu isn’t the only monastery nearby, nor is it the most visited. In fact, many travelers to the area prefer the Wutong Monastery because of its numerous Thangka paintings created by the monastery’s monks. While many of the original pieces were destroyed in the fallout of the Cultural Revolution, the style and beauty that once was, still lives on with the current population of artistically talented monks. Hand ground pigments and gold leaf are still used with the traditional styles that garnered this monastery’s far reaching reputation.

Authentic Items For Sale

These pieces can take anywhere from a few months to a couple years to create, and this is reflected in the price as well as their unbelievable detail. A large piece can sometimes sell for upwards of ¥50,000 (approximately $820 USD), with much smaller pieces usually selling for around ¥500 (approximately $80 USD). There is still plenty of exotic, fashionable clothing sold in the market, alongside souvenirs and local trinkets as well.

One can see the beautiful Tibetan craftsmanship in there buildings

Taking in The Culture

To really blend in with the locals, you will need to eat and play like the locals. Vendors along the streets often sell a variety of unique delicacies, with dried sheep’s head and yak butter tea being among them. For the less adventurous, freshly made yak milk yogurt can be found being sold by some vendors, and many Tibetan restaurants line the streets with more traditional foods. Roaming the streets between the sights, meals, and shopping, you can usually find a few locals gambling the day away with their own style of card and dice games, but welcoming any new players who are willing to take a chance.

Scenic Beauty

For those more interested in the Tibetan landscapes, snowcapped mountains and natural beauty that is prevalent on the Tibetan Plateau, Tongren does not cease to amaze. Within a reasonable walking distance from here, you can find breathtaking hills and grasslands; sparsely spread out on acres with mountains in the background and the common sights of sheep and yak tended to among the acres.

May 27, 2016
Tibetan Buddhism

Tibetan Buddhism (བོད་བརྒྱུད་ནང་བསྟན། ) is the major religion of Tibetans around the world. It covers the teachings of Mahayana Buddhism along with Tantric and Shamanic rituals, and is in some part influenced by Bon, the ancient, indigenous religion of Tibet. Apart from the traditions of koras, prayer flags, mantras, and sutras, Tibetan Buddhism is also known for the presence of several deities and reincarnation of Lamas.
History of Tibetan Buddhism

The Bon were exposed to Buddhism in the 7^th century when King Songtsen Gampo married two Buddhist women, Princess Wencheng from China, and Princess Bhrikuti Devi from Nepal. He tried to enforce Buddhism in the region, but faced a lot of opposition from the followers of the native Bon religion. Towards the end of the 8^th century, King Trisong Detsen invited two Buddhist masters from India to Tibet, the mystic Padmasambhava and Shantarakshita.

Master Shantarakshita built the first monastery in Tibet, while master Padmasambhava used his power to dispel the evil forces preventing the spread of Buddhism. Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) combined the teachings of tantric Buddhism with the local Bon religion and founded Tibetan Buddhism. He translated numerous Buddhist scriptures into Tibetan. This lead to the establishment of the first school of Tibetan Buddhism – Nyingma.

One of the Tibetan Buddhism Temples teaches the religion created a thousand years ago.

Four Sects of Tibetan Buddhism

1.     Nyingmapa Sect

The Nyingmapa Sect also known as the Red Hat sect is the oldest and first school of Tibetan Buddhism. Founded by Padmasambhava towards the end of the 8^th century, the Nyingma School emphasizes tantric practices, local theologies used from the local Bon religion, teachings attributed to Padmasambhava and Dzogchen (Great Perfection) doctrines. It was widely practiced in the region until the 11^th century when other schools of thought arose.

2.     Kagyupa Sect

The Kagyupa Sect is the third largest school in Tibetan Buddhism and is known as the White Hats sect. in the 11^th century, a Tibetan named Marpa went to India to learn Buddhism under Master Yogin Naropa. He then spread his teachings to his student, Milarepa after putting him under harsh trial. In 12^th century, Milarepa’s student Gampopa fouded the Kagyu Sect. This school stresses on the communication of knowledge from teacher to the student, and hence, is also referred as Oral Transmission School. Kagyupa’s central teachings revolve around Mahamudra system of meditation and Six Doctrines of Naropa, also known as Naro Chödrug.

3.     Sakyapa Sect

The smallest among the four total schools of Tibetan Buddhism, Sakyapa Sect was founded by Sakya Kunga Nyingpo with its main monastery, Sagya Monastery in southern Tibet. The central teachings of the Sakyapa School are based on Lamdrey (the Path and its Fruit), systematic tantrism and Buddhist logic. It creates a balance between study and meditation.

4.     Gelugpa Sect

The Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) Sect is the newest, largest and most important school of Tibetan Buddhism. The Gelugpa (Gelug) sect was founded by Tsongkhapa, a reformist monk and great Tibetan scholar. It is headed by the Dalai Lama. Its practices revolve around Lamrim, from the teachings of Atisha, which focuses on the journey to enlightenment as taught by Buddha.

May 27, 2016
Lhagang (Tagong)

A small, picturesque town located in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of western Sichuan Province, Lhagang (ལྷ་སྒང་།) is home to scenic grasslands, devoted monks and Tibetan nomads with their thousands of thick-coated yaks. Lhagang, also known as Tagong (塔公) in Chinese, is situated in the ancient Kham region in southwest China at an altitude of 3,700m. This treasured place in the foothills of the Tibetan plateau is around 110 kilometers from Kangding city. The town of Tagong features traditional Tibetan-style houses built from stone.

As a tourist attraction, Tagong is a Wild West town offering an insight into the local Tibetan Buddhist culture with its monasteries, as well as horse riding, hiking, and Tibetan homestays.

Historical Temples

Tagong, meaning ‘favorite place of bodhisattva’ in the local language, is home to Tagong Monastery and Lhagang Monastery. The historic Tagong Monastery (Lhagang Gompa) is right in the town center while the Lhagang Monastery is at a ten minute walk south of the town center.

Tagong Monastery (Small Jokhang Temple)

The famous Tagong Monastery was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1911) to honor the journey of Princess Wencheng on her way to Lhasa for her wedding to Tibetan King, Songtsen Gampo. It houses the replica of the sacred statue of Jowo Sakya-muni Buddha at Jokhang Temple in Lhasa along with scriptures of the Sakya Buddhist sect and other cultural relics more than 10,000 years old. A major three-day Buddha event is held at the end of June every year at the Monastery.

Lhagang Monastery

At the foothills of the sacred snowcapped mountain lies the Lhagang Monastery. The Lhagang Monastery consists of the Muya Golden Pagoda, which was built in 1997. The Muya Golden Pagoda was gifted by a Living Buddha of Zhuqing Monastery. It has a 100-kilogram pure gold roof in the center of the monastery’s four towers and honors the Living Buddha 10th Panchan.

Meeting at the monastery to learn and pray.

Tagong Grasslands

Tagong Grasslands are a vast expanse of meadow covering an area of 712.37 square kilometers. These beautiful grasslands are home to Tibetan nomads grazing their herds of yaks and living in traditional black yak wool tents. A Horse Race Festival is held in the grasslands every year at the beginning of the eight month of the lunar calendar. Local Tibetan herdsmen in great numbers get together to watch the sport and attend the Tibetan opera. These festivities are witness to the authentic Kham Tibetan culture.

Yaks travelling across the grasslands of Tagong

Mount Yala

Mount Yala is located at an altitude of 5,820m in the midst of Danba, Kangding and Daofu and is covered with snow all year round. With the magnificent Golden Padoga and captivating grasslands, Mount Yala presents spectacular views and hiking opportunities. Mount Yala is worshiped by Tibetan people as the area’s patron saint. The Yala river sprouts from the Yala Mountain and merges with the Dadu river up ahead.

May 26, 2016
Sungchu (Songpan )

Located in the North of Sichuan Province, with a population over 68,000, is Sungchu (ཟུང་ཆུ). Until recently it was an agriculturally dominated community, but with an influx of foreign students and travelers to and from Huanglong, Sungchu, known in Chinese Songpan County (松潘), has added tourism to being one of its top sectors.
Songpan’s Strategic Location

Built during the Tang Dynasty and expanded during the Ming Dynasty, for many years this was an important military location. When it was established, it sat at the border of the Chinese and Tibetan empires, and at many points in history the Tibetans staged invasions into China from its strategic location.

View of the city from atop of a hill

Deep History

In 641, in order to broker a truce between the two empires, Emperor Tang offered Princess WenCheng to the Tibetan King in Songpan. There are several statues of Princess WenCheng in town which symbolize this time of peace and it is not uncommon to find many tourist admiring and taking photos. Plenty of historic sites exist as well, with much of the city’s walls still standing, including its gates.

Exploring Adventurously

The surrounding areas have much to offer – enormous valleys, rolling hills, and seemingly endless forests and guides can be found all around Songpan and its neighboring areas. Mountain bike tours of the area can take most of the day and offer access to areas too far for a hike or backpacking trip, but the options are still there. Many tourists spend more than a day or two out in the mountains, hiking and camping along the way to smaller villages filled with livestock and farming.

City street not similar to the noisy streets of major cities in Mainland China.

For the Brave

Hiking and mountain biking can get you far, but there is no better way to experience all Songpan’s beautiful landscape has to offer than with a horseback tour. Day trips and overnight treks are common and some agencies in the area offer an even more, in depth trek lasting anywhere from four to seven days with a combination of camping and sleeping in villages.

Shopping for Tourists

Shopping in a more tourist-oriented town can sometimes be tricky, as furs and hides can be fake or even worse, poached from endangered animals. The best choices for souvenirs here are the silver jewelry and hand-crafted clothing. You can often find a silversmith working on a new piece near the southern end of the main strip where some of the silver shops are located. This southern area also tends to have better prices as it is farther from the high foot traffic areas near the center.

Some delicious Songpan tea to enjoy and relax after an exciting day in the city

Western styled foods and shops often come within territory of tourist based towns, and Songpan is no exception. For pizza, coffee and Wi-Fi, Emma’s Kitchen is the place to be, right off the main road. However, there are still many restaurants with traditional Chinese and Tibetan food and drink, including butter tea. This drink of butter, milk, egg, sesame, walnut, and red tea has a long standing history in Songpan and many Tibetans keep a pot on the stove, ready to serve at a moment’s notice.

May 25, 2016
Sershul (Shiqu)

Shiqu Town (石渠), also known as Sershul (སེར་ཤུལ།), Serxu, Dzachuka, or Shiquis, is a town in Shiqu County in the Garze Autonomous Prefecture in the northern part of the Chinese Sichuan Province. Shiqu County is spread over 25,000 square kilometers and lies approximately 4,200 meters above sea level on average. Mostly covered by green pastures and grazing yaks, Shiqu is home to a majority of ethnic Tibetans with most of them being nomadic herdsmen.
Shiqu has become an important center for trade for nomads who regularly arrive in town to buy and sell goods. The town now also has restaurants serving local food and decent hotels for visitors.

Sershul Tekchen Dargyeling Monastery

The Sershul Monastery is large monastery in Shiqu which belongs to the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddism. The monastery, housing the Buddhist Monastic University, has authorization to teach the highest Tibetan Buddhist Geshe Degree. The monastery consists of six main temples, several halls and a residential building housing hundreds of monks. Two huge chanting halls with artifacts dedicated to the founder, Je Tsongkhapa, are present in the largest temple. There are also other rare and sacred Buddhist pieces in the monastery, some of which date back to 2,000 years. Every year, a Molam Festival or Prayer Festival is held in the monastery in October which is heavily attended by nomads from Dege, Yushu and Nagchu.

Shiqu Horse Festival

Every summer in July, a Horse Festival is held in Shiqu where nomads from across the region gather to show their sportsmanship and engage in several different sporting events. The Shiqu Horse Festival creates a festive atmosphere for Tibetans who dance, drink and enjoy horse races. During the festival, Tibetan women are seen wearing colorful robes and decorative waist bands, huge necklaces, amber hair decorations and fancy embroidered hats.

Shiqu statue showing King Gesar.

The Legend of Sershul

According to legend, when King Gesar defeated one of King Hal’s brothers i.e. the King of Yellow Tent, he let some of his previous followers stay in the region. Although they lived peacefully, they felt the need of a place of worship. A man named Sershul suggested them to build a monastery after seeking permission from the descendant of King Gesar, the Derge King. The former followers of Hal Kingdom sent Kagyu Lohrong Dondeng to convince the King of Derge to allow a religious site to be set up. The local people named the monastery as Sershul Monastery once it was built to laud the person who proposed this idea.

May 25, 2016
Shangri-La

Shangri-La (སེམས་ཀྱི་ཉི་ཟླ།) is a name that conjures images of an idyllic paradise: cloud-carpeted sunrises with grassy outcroppings in a utopian society that lives in perfect harmony with nature. Zhongdian, Yunnan (now known as Shangri-La) is definitely some of those things. It has snow-capped mountains, clouds, sunrises (and sunsets), a mighty river, and remarkable gorges. It stands at an elevation of 3,000 meters in the northwestern corner of Yunnan, China.
Farms in Shangrila, on the outskirts of town

Shangri-La is the capital of Deqin Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is sandwiched between the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) to its west and Sichuan to its east. It is about 315 kilometers to the north of Dali and 659 kilometers from Kunming. Shangri-la town is at the southeastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and is a door to the UNESCO World Heritage Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas. These three major rivers include the Salween, the Yangtze, and the Mekong. They all flow in the same north-to-south direction among the mountains.

From Zhongdian to Shangri-la

Once known as Zhongdian, the town’s name was changed to ‘Shangri-la’ to attract tourists after James Hilton’s famous novel The Lost Horizon featured a lost paradise in the Tibetan highlands. Every town in the region rushed to claim to the title. But after much effort by Zhongdian’s mayor, it won the right to wear the crown: Shangri-la. In Tibetan, Shangri-La translates to the Land of Peace and Sacredness. Originally, its Tibetan name is Gyaitang or Gyalthang which means Royal Plains. Shangri-la town is home to mostly Tibetan and Han residents. Small pockets of Yi, Naxi, Lisu, and Bai minorities also hail from here. Outside the city, the countryside is dotted with Tibetan nomads.

Shangrila old town

Songzanlin Monastery (Ganden Sumtseling Monastery)

The Songzanlin Monastery is perched on a hill a few kilometers to the north of Shangri-La town. Being the largest Tibetan monastery in Yunnan, Songzanlin is home to about 700 “Yellow Hat” monks. This impressive structure represents Tibetan culture and was built in the style of the Potala Palace in Lhasa. This spiritual center hosts images of Tsongkapa and Sakyamuni. It also contains portraits of the revered tenth Panchen Lama, an important religious figure in Tibetan Buddhism. The Songzanlin Monastery was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but has been rebuilt to reflect its past glory.

Pudacuo National Park

Pudacuo National Park, a treasure trove of flora and fauna, is 20 kilometers east of Shangri-la town at an elevation of 3,500 to 4,000 meters. It is one of the first National Parks in China and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Three Parallel Rivers Scenic Area. The Pudacuo Park has diverse topography and a variety of wild animals and plants. Lakes Bita and Shudu are nestled there between forest-covered mountains.

May 25, 2016
Saka Dawa
Saka Dawa (also known as Saga Dawa) (ས་ག་ཟླ་བ།) represents the holiest and most sacred days in Tibetan Buddhism. Falling on the fourth month of the Tibetan Calendar, the religious festivities of Saka Dawa peak on the 15^th Lunar Day when there is a full moon. This day is associated with three major events in the life of Shakyamuni Buddha – his birth, his enlightenment on a full moon night, and his parinirvana. In Tibetan, Dawa means “month” while Saka means the “name of the closet star to the earth” during the lunar month which is prominently visible. In Tibetan astrological calculations, Saka is one of the 28 known major stars.
On the main Saka Dawa day, a special puja is carried out by monks in the monasteries early in the morning. Additionally, sutras are recited and Cham dances are also performed at the monastery. After this, Tibetans take an oath of the Eight Mahayana precepts to be observed during the day.

Saka Dawa – A Meritorious Month

Saka Dawa is regarded as a great time to earn merits and attain spirituality, purification and enlightenment by Tibetans. This meritorious month carries a special aspect whereby any good deeds performed during the month are rewarded with one hundred million times greater good karma. These meritorious activities revolve around early teachings of sila (morality), dana (generosity) and bhavana (meditation).

The meritorious worthy acts include:
- Pilgrimages to sacred Tibetan places such as mountains, lakes and caves, notable monasteries, and temples.
- Performing koras in a clockwise direction around a shrine or other holy places. Pilgrims pray, prostrate themselves, and chant mantras such as the “Om Mani Padme Hum, Buddha Shakyamuni” mantra or White or Green Tara mantras.
- Giving donations to monasteries, monks and nuns.
- Giving charity to the poor.
- Eradicating the dark forces by lighting butter lamps.
- Refraining from eating meat.
- Setting animals free into their habitat.
Observing Mahayana Precepts

During Saka Dawa, Tibetans observe eight major precepts on holy days such as the full moon and new moon days of the month. Since the full moon is the holiest of days, the devotees engage in observing these actions with much fervor.
1. Avoid killing and taking life
2. Shunning from acts of stealing
3. Avoiding sexual contact
4. Staying away from lying and deceiving others
5. Not taking alcohol, tobacco and recreation drugs
6. Eating one meal a day before noon which should not include onions, garlic, radishes, meat or eggs.
7. Not sleeping on a high-raised bed or sitting on chair with pride
8. Not participating in singing and dancing, nor wearing jewelry and other adornments, such as makeup or perfume.
Among the several schools of Tibetan Buddhism, a range of rituals and ceremonies are performed during Saka Dawa.
May 25, 2016
Rongwu Monastery

History of Rongwu Monastery

Named for the Rongwu River, which it is located alongside, the Rongwu Monastery (རོང་པོ་དགོན་པ།)rests in Tongren County, Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture and is less than 200 km from Xining, the capital of Qinghai Province. The Monastery first began as a site for three temples in 1341. Initially established by Rongwu Samten Rinpoche, his younger brother was the designer and architect for the compound. The Temple of Three Buddhas was the first to be built, followed by the Golden Temple. It wasn’t until the first reincarnation of Rongwu Samten Rinpoche was recognized however, that the monastery was founded at the site of the three temples. Interestingly enough, the Monastery initially began under the Sakya Sect Monastery, however, over the years it became part of the Gelugpa Sect of Buddhism.

Expansion

Over the centuries, Rongwu Monastery has been expanded and updated and in 1991, when the eighth incarnation of Rongwu Samten Rinpoche was recognized, Yarba Chogyi, the Monastery received its newest building and further expansions. Yarba Chogyi built stupas at the four corners of the Monastery as well as a Victory Stupa. He had sayings of Buddha written in gold in various locations and even commissioned statues of Tsong Kapa. His greatest addition however, was the large prayer hall within the compound. Today, there are several significant buildings at Rongwu Monastery including The Great Sutra Hall, The Manjushri Hall, and the Main Assembly Hall.

Monastic Colleges

The first monastic college was established by Shartsang Gyatso in 1630, in which multiple Buddhist dialects were taught. Following several re-incarnations of Shartsang Lobsang Trinley Longtok Gyatso, the college was expanded and new halls were built to host the new colleges that were to come. The Gyamat Tratsang, or The Lower Tantric College, was established next, focusing on the study of the scriptures. This was followed by The Duikor Tratsang, or the college of Kalachakra, the study of the wheel of time.

Cham Dance

Performed during the Monlam Prayer Festival, the Cham Dance is a common sight at the Rongwu Monastery. The dance consists of traditional Tibetan instruments played by the monks and is meant to be a form of meditation and offering to the Gods. While it is not found in all sects of Buddhism, the monks at Rongwu Monastery are known for their impressive displays.

May 25, 2016
Mt. Yala

Geography

Located near the border of Daofu County, Danba County, and Kangding County, of Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture, Yala Mountain (བཞག་བྲ།)is one of the most popular mountain treks in the Sichuan region. With snow covered peaks year round, Mt. Yala has an elevation of 5,820 meters and offers several trek options for mountain enthusiasts. The area around the border of Kangding that includes the mountain range is also a nature preserve.

History

Aside from being a large attraction for visitors to the area, it is also one of four holy mountains worshiped by the local Tibetans. It is mentioned in the Epic of King Gesar in this way and held highly by the locals in this regard. In ancient Tibetan texts, the mountain is referred to as “Shambhala the Second” and also “Oriental White Yak” and contains many religious and prayer flags hung all around the mountain. Its name in Chinese is Yala Xueshan. Tibetans have been coming to Mt. Yala for centuries to hang their prayer flags in honor of the mountain spirits.

Beautiful contrast with the grasslands and snow capped foothills. (As seen from Tagong)

Scenery

Surrounding Yala Mountain to the north and northwest are the Tagong (Lhagong) Grasslands, creating a stunning contrast between the snowy mountain side and the grasslands below. Nearby villages can also be reached, including Danba, one of the most beautiful valleys in the region. It is popular to begin a few days trek to the mountain starting at Kangding or an even closer point around Zhonglu village, to have the best experience.

Trekking route on the East (Back) side of Yala Mt

Trekking around or across Mt. Yala can take days and properly preparing should be a priority. Zhonggu sits at an altitude of around 3,000 meters and is a great location to ascend Mt. Yale’s eastern pass, which roughly sits around 4,216 meters. The trek is not steep and can be climbed with not too much difficulty. This can also make the change in elevation easier for those not used to such high altitudes. As Sichuan’s second highest mountain range, on a clear day you can see for miles, making this scenic trek very worthwhile indeed. Off in the distance, you may even be able to spot the peaks of Minya Konka, covered in snow.

Yala Mt offers both great trekking and backcountry cycling options

Planning a Trip to Mt. Yala

If you plan on making the long trek and camping out in the area, there are a few things you should prepare for. The temperatures can drop well below 0 degrees at night, so a good four season tent is recommended, as well as sleeping bags that can handle these sub-zero temperatures. Plenty of layers of clothing to adapt to the changing temperatures throughout the day is also critical. Talk to Zhilam Hostel in Kangding if you’re looking to hire a local guide on location in Kangding, or contact Extravagant Yak for a quote on an all inclusive package tour from Chengdu.

May 25, 2016
Losar (Tibetan New Year)

The Tibetan New Year (བོད་ཀྱི་ལོ་གསར། ) is referred to as Losar. The Tibetan Calendar is based on the lunar calendar and consists of twelve (or thirteen) months. Losar starts on the first day of the first month of the Tibetan Calendar when the new moon is sighted. Oftentimes, Losar and the Chinese New Year begin on the same date, but sometimes they might have a difference of a day, or even a lunar month.

To mark the Losar, a three-day festival is celebrated by Tibetans worldwide with prayers, hanging prayer flags, ceremonies, folk dances, passing fire torches among gatherings, and friends and family reunions. As one of the most widely celebrated Tibetan festivals, Losar is a time when Tibetan cultural values are greatly exhibited. Warm greetings are exchanged with everyone from family members to neighbors. Delicious Tibetan food such as Dresi, Kabsay, Guthuk, different varieties of meat, bread, butter tea and other dishes are served to guests who are invited into homes. Families visit temples to offer prayers and give gifts to monks.

Losar of the Past

The Losar festivities have roots dating back to the pre-Buddhist period when Tibetans were followers of the Bon religion. Every winter, a spiritual ceremony was organized in which local spirits and deities were given offerings such as incense to please them. Later on this religious festival became an annual Buddhist farmers’ festival held during the blossoming of flowers on apricot trees. Over time, when the lunar calendar came into being, the farmers’ festival journeyed to becoming the festival of Losar.

Celebration of Losar

Preparation for the festivities begin a month before the end of the year. Houses are cleaned thoroughly, new clothes are made for the family to wear during the festival, and different food offerings are made on the family alter. The eight auspicious symbols and other signs are drawn on the house walls using white powder or are hung as wall hangings. The monasteries are also decorated and the protector deities are respected with devotional rituals.

Some of the traditional dancing that takes place during the festivals.

Day 1

The first day of the New Year is called Lama Losar when all the Tibetan Buddhists greet their respective gurus and wish each other prosperity for the year ahead. For a good harvest, offerings of barley seeds and tsampa are made to home alters. Tibetan women get up early to cook barley wine and prepare a dish called Dresi. Families visits the local monastery to offer prayers and attend sermons.

Day 2

The second day is King’s Losar when the revered Dalai Lama exchanges greetings with national leaders. In ancient times a tribute was paid to the kings who would also offer gifts to the public.

Day 3

Offerings are given to the various Gods and protectors on Choe-kyong Losar, the 3rd day of the New Year. Prayer flags are hung and devotees visit monasteries, shrines and stupas.

After the three days, Tibetans engage in parties and get-togethers for 15 days ending the festivities with Chunga Choepa, the Butter Lamp Festival at the first full moon.

May 25, 2016