Author: Tsering Tso

Nima’s Homestay

Muni valley is located in Huanglong National Park, 36km west of Songpan County Town, and ranges in altitude between 2800m at the entrance to 4070m on the mountain peak. You will find a very nice local Tibetan homestay called “Nima’s homestay ” in the beautiful Muni valley. Nima’s homestay is one of the most comfortable local homestay in Muni valley.
Muni valley has a stunning landscape, charming local Tibetan villages, and Buddhist monasteries. The most spectacular scenery is found at Zhaga Waterfall and Erdao Lake in Muni valley. When compared with Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, there won’t be as many tourists, so you can walk around and enjoy the beauty of nature in relative peace. Most importantly, while exploring this quiet valley, travelers can stay with a local Tibetan family at Nima’s Homestay. Staying at this cozy and comfortable Tibetan house in such beautiful valley, is guaranteed to be a very special part of your travels.

Nima is the local Tibetan farmer who runs the homestay. Nima means, “sun” in Tibetan, and is a very common name amongst his people. The homestay is convenient to find beside the road and it is very easy to get to. Nima has been running his homestay business for a few years, and he is very interested in receiving visitors. He opened Nima’s homestay because the scenic spots in the area became more developed, thus meaning the extra visitors needed a place to stay.

Nima’s homestay is very clean and comfortable.

While Nima and his wife don’t speak English, they have experience receiving Western clients, and they have done this long enough that they usually know what you want. They will use their body language to greet you and ask if you would like anything to eat or drink. Nima’s wife (Liuhai Yin) is also a very friendly and hardworking lady, and they both try their best to make you happy and comfortable. Your presence will attract friendly and warm smiles, so make sure you smile in return!

There are 12 beds on their second floor which are soft and comfortable. The bathroom is located just outside the house, and is shared among all guests in a simple dormitory style. On the first floor, there is a very nice living room with wood decorations, and a small kitchen where Nima and his wife will prepare the meals. Nima’s wife is the cook and you are welcome to help her as she makes her best traditional Tibetan dishes. If you want to try your hand at Tibetan cooking, Liuhai Yin is happy to be your cooking instructor. If you visit in the summer or fall, you may even be able to help Liuhai Yin pick vegetables from her own farm and vegetable garden to round out the meal with fresh, home grown food.

A great hiking place near the Nima’s village.

There are several great hiking places near the village, including the mountain that rises directly across from the village. On the mountain you will see payer flags, and will be rewarded as you climb with the whole view of the village. If you get up early, travelers may choose to join the kora (walk around the temple) with the local people, or a few minutes of mediation in the temple.

Muni valley is a good place to see some of nature’s beauty and to experience authentic Tibetan culture. If you are traveling to Muni Valley, we recommend you visit Nima’s family at their homestay in order to experience a piece of the real Tibet.

Contact Info:

Address: Shang Zhai Cun (village), Muni Township, Songpan County.

Phone: 13678372526

地址：松潘县牟尼乡上寨村

电话： 13678372526

September 1, 2016
Snow Land Tibetan Massage Center

We all know that traveling can be fun and exciting, but sometimes it can be a very tiring experience. This can be especially true when traversing over some of the more rugged terrain that can be found on the Roof the World – Tibet. Thankfully, to help you relax, refresh, and recuperate from an exhausting trek or hike there is the option of getting a massage. In the town of Songpan, one can find the Snow Land Tibetan Massage Center.
Songpan is one of the popular tourist destinations in the Amdo Tibetan region. Songpan is also very close to the UNESCEO park – Jiuzhaigou Valley. The town itself is full of Tibetan culture and history, making it a beautiful place to explore and experience a piece of Tibet.

The Snow Land Massage Center is a tiny and simple place in the center of Songpan, but a wonderful place to stumble into if you are looking to relax. It was founded by a local Tibetan man named Tenzin Wang Gyal, and it is the first massage center in the town. His father was a Tibetan doctor, so he was able to study some Tibetan medicine and massage from his father. He also learned some about the operating a massage center in Mainland China.

Enjoy Tibetan Massage at Snow Land Tibetan Massage Center

In Songpan tourists like to hike and take horse treks in his hometown, and Tenzin Wang Gyal realized that some horse treks take 3 to 4 days, which can make it a very tiring journey. He thought it would be wonderful if he could offer these visitors a massage center. So he put his idea in practice in 2002 and founded Snow Land Tibetan Massage Center.

In the past years, he has received costumers from all over the world. When scanning his guestbook, his costumers provide him with positive and encouraging feedback. A lot of the commenters agree that they find Tibetan massage to be a wonderful way to relax after siting on bus, trekking, or hiking for hours.

If you are missing a little western food, you can enjoy some comfort food after your Tibetan massage as the neighboring building is a western restaurant, which is run by a friendly Chinese lady. Going by the name of Emma, she speaks fluent English. This restaurant is also pretty well known, making getting to Snow Land that much easier.

Snow Land Tibetan Massage Center is Next to Emma’s Guesthouse

The biggest difference between Chinese and Tibetan massage is the technique. There are several different services at the massage center: Tibetan massage (full or partial), Tibetan treatment for kidneys, Tibetan medical footbath, flower and milk footbath, pedicure, cupping, and electrotherapy. We chose to go with a half hour of massage, because we had never had a Tibetan one before. Obviously we weren’t disappointed, and we ended up wishing we had gone for longer!

Tenzin Wang Gyal has trained more than 20 local massage therapists since 2002. He hopes he can continue to train more Tibetans, and wants to open a branch center in a different Tibetan area.

If you find yourself in Songpan, we encourage you to try Tibetan massage if you have the chance to travel to here.

Contact Info:

Address: Next to Emma’s Kitchen in Songpan, Sichuan, China.

Phone: 189090443172

地址：中国四川松潘县顺江村小欧洲西餐厅旁

电话： 189090443172

September 1, 2016
Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel

“Xisuo Local Residence” is a small Rgyal rong Tibetan village located in a Zhuokeji in Maerkang. The village was built in the middle of the Qing dynasty, and even today maintains the architecture of these early settlers. On the outside the village houses are made of stone, making it look like an ancient castle town set on the hill. There are approximately 72 local Tibetan families, and they rely primarily on farming. The village is one of several villages that was ruled by the Zhuokeji Chieftain, and the village is only a five-minute walk to the Zhuokeji Tsui Official Manor. This is a gorgeous place to explore and learn local history, culture, and architecture. Located in this village, travelers can find a welcoming and cozy local hostel called ” Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel “.
While almost every family in the village receives visitors today, Luyekang (a local farmer), was the first person to open a hostel in the village. Together, Luyekang and his wife have been running the Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel since 2002. Both of them are about 70 years old, and they are very friendly, kind, and they treat their guests as their family members. While neither of them speak English, they use their sign language to communicate with their guests, which means there is always a warm smile to be had. Their hostel was the first place in the village that had permission to receive foreign guests. Most of their foreign guests are introduced by the local tourism bureau because they provide such good services. If you stay here, you will quickly understand why the government favors them with business.

Entrance to Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel

Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel is very easy to find. The hostel is the first house across the prayer wheel bridge, on the right corner of the alley. A Tibetan grandpa and grandma will welcome you and be ready to take you to your room.

The hostel has three floors. The first floor is the kitchen, the second floor is for both family and guests, and the third floor is more guestrooms. There are about 24 rooms in total, and the hostel is very clean and nicely decorated. Most of the house is made of wooden walls and furniture, and the mural in the second floor lounge definitely deserves a second look! The hostel has two shower rooms on the third floor, and hot water and internet are available. While they don’t offer food in the hostel, you can easily find a place to eat in the village. (However, if you visit the hostel in the fall, you can buy fresh walnuts from your hosts!)

Inside of the Zhuan Jing Bridge Hostel

The local Buddhist temple is next to Zhuan Jing Hostel, so if you want to visit the temple or walk a kora, this is very convenient. It is also fascinating to walk around the village to take photos and enjoy Rgyal rong architecture.

If you are exploring the area, we highly recommend you stay with this lovely older couple at the hostel just across the prayer wheel bridge.

Contact Info:

Address: Right side of the Prayer Bridge, Xisuo Tibetan village, Zhuokeji Township.

Phone: 0837-2829162

地址：马尔康卓克基乡西索居民转经桥右边第一家。

电话：0837-2829162

September 1, 2016
Wrangler Hotel

In Ruoergai County Town, you will find the Wrangler Hotel. As a local nomadic family runs the hotel, the managers – Dorjie and Gengden – are both family. Both brothers are friendly people who are very passionate about social entrepreneurship. They have been helping a lot of local people make their livelihood as they currently have more than 30 employees. Previously, Duojie was fortunate to receive a little bit of training on ecotourism and social entrepreneurship in United States. The training helped him to reshape business in such a way that he provides jobs and training to his staff to raise the quality of Wrangler Hotel in a responsible and sustainable way.
The hotel was opened in April 2015. The family built the hotel because tourism is developing very fast in Ruoergai, and both domestic and international tourists visit the beautiful grasslands to get a glimpse into nomadic life. As a result of this surge in tourism, the hotel wants to provide a nice and comfortable place for visitors to stay. There are single rooms and double rooms each with nice bathrooms attached and complete with wonderful showers and western toilets. The rooms are very clean and the beds are very comfortable, with each of the rooms having their own wifi.

Inside of Wrangler Hotel

You will find a cozy teahouse located on both the 4^th and 5^th floors of the hotel. The 4^th floor teahouse is classical in style and it has a mix of decorations common to both Chinese and Tibetan style teahouses. If you have never gone to tea ceremony, it’s worthwhile to take the time to visit while you are here. The tea table is very nice and you have the option of either making your own tea, or for the authentic experience, the waiters will make it for you if you wish. There are different kinds of Chinese tea available, and while you sip some oolong or green tea, the soft background music is designed to calm and relax you. If you are looking for something a little stronger instead, wines and beer are also available at this teahouse.

The second teahouse on the 5^th floor is decorated as a garden style teahouse. There are many plants, and the height gives you a nice view of Ruoergai town. If you are a little more budget conscious, the tea on this floor is a slightly cheaper than the 4^th floor teahouse, although the selection is not quite as wide. If you get hungry, either tea house provides a range of Chinese dishes for you to choose from.

Wrangler Hotel’s Tea House

If you find yourself visiting Ruoergai County Town in the Aba Prefecture, mosey on over to the Wrangler Hotel for a little shut eye or to enjoy a nice cup of tea.

Contact Info:

Address: Chunxi Road, Ruoergai Town, Aba Prefecture.

Phone: 0837-8966789

地址：四川阿坝若尔盖春熙路

电话： 0837-8966789

September 1, 2016
Black Tent Restaurant

While it’s easy to find a restaurant where you can have authentic Tibetan food, it is hard to find a restaurant in Hong Yuan town, in the Amdo Tibetan Region, where you can experience the local Tibetan style. However, at the Black Tent Restaurant, guests experience both. Run by a young local Tibetan nomad Gasang Gun who only has primary school education, the restaurant stands as a testament to his hard work and dedication to his culture. The restaurant was found in 2007, and it was one of the earliest Tibetan restaurants in the town. As yak meat, butter, cheese, milk, and yogurt are some of the main foods for nomads, Gasang Gun decided to bring a little nomad life to the town.
There are a few restaurants in the town, but on observation Black Tent Restaurant is the most popular among the local people. While many tourists visit Hong Yuan, most are not lucky enough to know about the place. Instead, most of Black Tent’s customers are local nomads who know what the real authentic food tastes like. If you visit the restaurant, it’s not uncommon to see entire Tibetan families – from the grandparents to the toddlers – stopping by for a meal.

Momos at the black tent restaurant

Hong Yuan is known for their yak dairy products, so if you are looking for Tibetan yak meat and yogurt, Black Tent restaurant is one of the best places! While here, we tried their momos, rice with yak meat, yogurt, and yak milk tea, and Gasang Gun’s cooking does not disappoint!

Gasang Gun was able to expand his restaurant in the past few years with his hard work, and passion for food and culture. He opened two more restaurants in both Hong Yuan town and Aba town, and currently employs 13 Tibetan staff between his 3 restaurants. He is the main chef and manager for the Black Tent Restaurant in Hong Yuan, with his other chefs being trained by him. Gasang Gun said that it usually takes a few months to train each of his chefs properly, but he is very happy to take the time to do it for the quality of the food, and the education of his staff. In the future, Gasang Gun wants to open more restaurants in some of the other Tibetan towns to let more people experience the flavors of nomad food.

The road to the black tent restaurant

Contact Info:

Address: East Road of Jiangxi, Honyuan County town.

Phone: 0837-2661055

地址：红原县绛熙东街13号（民政局附近）

电话：0837-2661055

September 1, 2016
Mtsho khra khrap （Flower Lake）

Officially known as Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve, this area is commonly known in Chinese as Hua Hu which literally translates: Mtsho khra khrap (མཚོ་ཁྲ་ཁྲབ།) In Tibetan. We call it Flower Lake in English. The name comes from the flower shape of the lake, not because it holds an abundance of blooming flowers (a common misconception). Regardless, walking the boardwalk around the marsh leading to the lake itself, travellers are taken with the beauty that is Flower Lake.
Located at an altitude of 3,600 meters above sea level, Flower Lake is the largest plateau marshland in the world, and was officially recognized in 1988 as a national nature reserve. Watching the sky reflect off of the lake in contrast to the colour of the reeds, is part of what makes Flower Lake so popular to visit.

The road to flower lake

The Wildlife

When visiting Flower Lake, keep your eyes open for the wildlife. This marshland is home to several endangered species, and it was recognized in 2005 as the homeland of the Black-Necked Crane. Bird watchers may also spot the red-crowned crane, white crane, swans, and yellow ducks. Other animals within the park include the lake’s fish, and the livestock belonging to the nomads.

Getting There

Flower lake is located approximately halfway between Ruoergai County Town and Langmu Monastery, making this a convenient stop for travellers. When heading north out of Ruoergai, it is approximately a half hour drive with visitors choosing to take the bus, taxi, or private vehicle to get there.

A sawn in the flower lake

Visiting Flower Lake

Once at the entrance to the nature reserve, the entrance price is ¥101 during peak season (May – mid October), while it is only ¥30 the rest of the year. Even though it is more expensive, the recommended time to visit Flower Lake is June-October, as the winter months see the marshes covered in snow. In the summer months the marsh reeds are a luscious green, while in the fall the reeds turn golden yellow with the colder weather.

Once inside the park you will load onto a bus (paid for with your entrance ticket), and drive about 10 minutes until you reach the boardwalk stretching out over the marshland. The boardwalk is fairly wide and well maintained making this site easy to visit. However, the majority of the boardwalk has no railing over the deep marsh water, so parents will want to watch their small children. For travellers with mobility issues, barring the elevated observation platforms, there are only a couple of small steps scattered throughout the boardwalk.

Flower lake is a nice place to experience the beauty of nature

Flower Lake Nature Reserve is open for guests from 6:30am-7:00pm year round. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds, as this is a popular scenic spot for national tourists. By visiting in the morning, you will also avoid the heat of the afternoon sun (although you should still be prepared for the weather).

September 1, 2016
Xiangxiong Guesthouse

Songpan ancient town is the best place to learn and explore local history and culture in the entire county town. As the Ancient Town was first built in the Ming Dynasty, the old city walls and the building architecture still maintains charm from this period. Today visitors will find many small shops, restaurants, teahouses, and guesthouses in the area, giving it a very quaint feel perfect for a casual stroll or a little shopping. You will also notice that there are three visible people groups in Songpan: Han Chinese, Muslim, and the local Tibetan people. If you are looking to stay in the midst of the beautiful old Songpan, we are happy to recommend the Tibetan owned Xiangxiong Guesthouse where you will be cared for by locals, and where your business is supporting a very hardworking entrepreneur.
Xiangxiong Guesthouse is located in the old town, which is close to the North gate. Only 2-3 minutes walk from the gate and easy to find, the location of the guesthouse is very good as it is situated on one of the quiet side streets of old Songpan.

A very capable Tibetan lady – Aheng Tso – founded the guesthouse in October of 2015. She used to run another hotel in Chuanzhusi, which is approximately 20 minutes drive from Songpan county town. This hotel did good business during the busy tour seasons. However, the hotel didn’t have any Tibetan flavor and she also had to close the hotel each year for a few months of the winter as there are not tourists during that period. So instead, she decided to build a Tibetan style guesthouse in Songpan. Her guesthouse is popular among local Tibetans, with her often receiving good feedback from her Tibetan customers that they like the Tibetan decorations and flavor. (If the locals themselves like it, you know it’s good!)

Room with two beds at Xiangxiong guesthouse

You can ask the staff if you need any information on the town. While they are not the most fluent English speakers, they will readily try understand what you are asking for and to provide the information you that might helpful to you.

Xiangxioang guesthouse is the most unique and beautiful guesthouse in the town. With all the Tibetan wooden furniture, decorations, and other aspects of the colourful culture on display, this hotel is lovely and filled with unique aspects. The hotel has three floors. The first floor is used as a lobby and has a small shop attached to it, a tea room, and a breakfast area. The hotel provides both Chinese and Tibetan style breakfast. The Chinese breakfast includes porridge, eggs, steamed bread, and a few other dishes, while the Tibetan breakfast includes tsampa (barley), butter, dried yak cheese, and yak milk. The second and third floors are guestrooms which contain a total of 36 rooms, each with a nice bathroom attached. Of these rooms, 21 are double rooms, while 15 of them are single bedrooms. All of the rooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable.

You also can enjoy at Xiangxiong guesthouse

So far, most of her costumers are Tibetans and Chinese, but she hopes more westerners will visit her hometown and enjoy staying at her beautiful Tibetan guesthouse. If you are looking for a hotel in Songpan, you needn’t look far as Xiangxiong Guesthouse was one of our highlights when staying in Songpan!

Contact Info:

Address: 2-3 minutes walk from North gate if the ancient town, Songpan county town.

Phone: 18782171308

地址：松潘县顺城北街12号象雄客栈

电话： 18782171308

September 1, 2016
Erdaohai Lake

Located just outside of Songpan in the Mounigou Gulley Scenic Area is the breathtaking Erdaohai Lake. While this is not the only lake or scenic spot located in the park, it is one of the two most famous places in the Mounigou Gulley, ensuring the park is known by this name (The other park in Mounigou Gulley is Zhaga Waterfall.)
Known for its stunning colour, this lake is set at an altitude of 3,385 meters above sea level and covers an area of approximately 16,027 square meters. With karst caves located underneath, the plateau sink-lake is fed by the surging undercurrent. At its deepest point the lake is approximately 28 meters deep, and it is this changing depth of the mountain water that gives the lake its vibrant and shifting colours. Located at such a high elevation, the lake not only reflects the forest around its edges, but the living sky above.

One of the beautiful lakes in Erdaohai

Other Attractions Within the Park

In Erdaohai Park, there are actually a number of different lakes/pools that guests like to visit. Each of the lakes or pools is a different colour, and the sparkling clear mountain water displays the interesting elements of each place. This includes: Lovers Emerald Pool, Jade Lake, Toudaohai Lake, Swan Lake, Singing Spring, the Travertine Annual Rings, Jade-Dropping Pool, Grass Lake, and Hot Spring Lake.

Besides these, one of the lakes is known for the algae that grows in it that looks like the branches of a pine tree, while at another point in the park there is an actual pine tree that seems to grow straight out of a rock face. Also, worth spotting amongst the trees is the Karast Cave Group, with several of the caves extending deep into the earth. No matter where you look the park is beautiful with the forest, wildflowers, occasional animal, and the wide open sky.

Inside Erdaohai Lake

Getting There

When going to Erdaohai Lake, your best option is to take a taxi or private vehicle out of the town. We took a taxi, and for the price quoted us, he was willing to wait for us for the three hours we wanted to spend in the park. At the time of writing, the entrance ticket to Erdaohai Lake cost ¥70, but to see the stunning colour of each of the lakes is well worth it.

Inside Erdaohai Lake

Once inside Erdaohai Lake, the walk will take approximately 2-3 hours depending on the speed at which you want to walk and the amount of times you stop to take in the view. The lakes themselves are set further back into the park with the first appearing after about 15 minutes of walking.

A smooth wooden boardwalk leads visitors through the park making it a nice walk, however, for those with mobility issues, there are a number of steps in the park. Essentially the park tours a mountain side, so the height of the terrain changes as you go further in, but the boardwalk takes it from being a hike to a walk. When walking in the park, you will come to a couple of forks in the road, however, the entire park is set up as a loop, so by taking one road over the other, you aren’t actually missing anything.

Beautiful view from inside Erdaohai lake

If you walk right to the back of the park, guests are rewarded with a hot spring in which you may choose to dip your feet for a few minutes. However, don’t be surprised: the hot spring might not be as “hot” as you expect. The spring deserves this title because it never dips below 10°C in a year, which at the elevation is significant enough to differentiate it from the surrounding lakes. (To the amusement of those who sat at the pool longer, we saw more than one guest startle at their initial test of the water.)

When visiting the park, dress for the weather, and make sure you bring a water bottle. There are gazebos and benches scattered throughout the park if you want to enjoy a picnic lunch, but to do so will require you to bring the food with you from town as there is no place to buy it there.

Prayer flags in Erdaohai Lake

September 1, 2016
Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Driving about an hour and a half north of Aba town, travellers are rewarded with the spectacular views to be found at the Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain (གཉན་པོ་གཡུ་རྩེ།) Scenic Area. With a mountain range surrounding a large lake, the air here feels clear and pure. The area surrounding the Lianbaoyeze Mountain is a scenic park, meaning there are a couple of things to see and do.
Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

The mountain itself is considered holy due to its Tibetan folklore history. The holy mountain is described as having a front gate, and doors on four sides. Each door and side of the gate has a different god associated with it making this mountain the home of six divinities. It is said that to the left of the gate is “Layagawu” (a white divine cattle), with the right being “Jiashidamawu” (a red divine tiger). Meanwhile, the gods of the doors are “Pawengzhiyu” in the north (a cubic magic stone), “Kecainangqian” in the south (an elephant), “Lawengtuoga” to the east (a white-forehead mountain divinity), and “Zhayisecha” to the west (a gold-armored mountain deity).

It also seems that wherever you go in Tibet the epic of King Gesar has a local legend. The Lianbaoyeze area is no different, as the stories say that the area was King Gesar’s battlefield.

A stupa in Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Zhagaercuo Lake

According to the local who took us, there are approximately 360 lakes on this mountain, with Zhagaercuo being just one of them. This lake lies at an elevation of 4,200 meters, and the beautiful clear water occupies 3 square kilometers. Zhagaercuo Lake is hidden from the road when you approach, but after an approximately 20-minute walk on the recently built boardwalk, this stunning highland lake comes into view. (Note: This includes several flights of stairs, and due to the elevation, it may take you longer as you catch your breath).

Zhagarecuo Lake in Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain

Other Activities

There is space within the grounds of the park to camp alongside the river, or there are a few guest houses at the base of the mountain. If you wish to hike or walk, there is a trail that runs alongside the river from the park entrance to the base of the mountain (at which point it turns into the previously mentioned boardwalk). There are also new roads being built in this park, meaning that new scenic locations are becoming accessible to visitors all the time.

Getting There

The drive to Lianbaoyeze Holy Mountain Scenic Area takes about an hour and a half from the town of Aba. As there are no buses running to this area, your best option is a private vehicle hire. While this may seem a bit out of the way, the trip is well worth it.

September 1, 2016
Ngawa (Aba)

Located in the Northwest of Sichuan Province at an elevation of 3,200 meters above sea level is the town of Ngawa (རྔ་བ་རྫོང།), also known as Aba (阿坝县) in Chinese. Aba is located on the Tibetan plateau, and the town is the seat of Ngawa (Aba) County. The city holds a population of approximately 20,000 people, with 8,000 of them being monks.
Things to See in and around Aba Town

In the city and surrounding area there are 37 monasteries between both Tibetan Buddhism and the traditional Bon religion. Four of the most easily accessed monasteries (Tibetan: gompa) are Kirti Gompa, Setenling Gompa, Nangzhik Gompa, and Topgyel Gompa. Also worth a visit is the nearby Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area about 40 minutes drive from the city.

Kirti Gompa

Also known as Gerdeng Monastery, the full name for this monastery is Kirti Kalari Gon Tashi Lhundrub. A disciple of Tsongkhapa – Rongpa Chenakpa – founded the monastery in 1472 on the northwestern edge of Aba town. This monastery belongs to Tibetan Buddhism’s Gelugpa sect and houses approximately 2,500 monks today. When visiting, the beautiful yellow colouring of the monastery is visible in the distance, which will let you know you have arrived.

Kirti Monastery in Aba

Setenling Gompa

This monastery belongs to the Jonangpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and is about a kilometer from the eastern end of town (follow the main road straight out). Founded in the 13^th and 14^th century by Namnang Dorje, it was reconstituted in the end of the 19^th century by Dro-ge Yonten Gyatso. This monastery is a little more confusing to get inside than Kirti Gompa, and once inside if the temple is not open, there is a phone number to call to request access.

Nangzhik Gompa and Topgyel Gompa

Belonging to the ancient Tibetan religion of Bon, these two monasteries are located just outside of Aba. Estimates say there are between 800 to 1000 monks associated with these two locations. Nangzhik is about a 4 km walk up a hill on the north of town, while Topgyel holds a large stupa on a mountain to the east of Aba. Nangzhik Gompa is said to be the biggest Bon monastery in all of Tibet.

Stupa and prayer flags in Aba

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains Scenic Area

There is no bus running to this mountain, so a private vehicle rental is the way to go. The drive is approximately 60kms, making this a reasonable trip, but one that is well worth it for the view and the opportunity to walk the nature. If you happen to go to the mountain on a clear day, your photos will be spectacular.

Lianbao Yeze Holy Mountains in Aba

Horse Race Festival

The Aba Horse Race Festival takes place in the middle of July in accordance with the Lunar Calendar. Enjoy the festive atmosphere, and watch the locals participate in a little good natured competition.

Going There and Getting Around

Aba town is the transport hub of the county, with the most common way to travel to Aba being by bus. Some of the daily long haul bus routes running to and from Aba town include Chengdu (344km), Hongyuan/Mewa (157km), and Maerkang/Barkham (254km). Other buses include Mianyang City, Songpan County, Jinchuan County, Wenchuan County, Heishui County, and Xiangtang County.

Wherever you come from, on the drive into town, don’t miss the scenery as you drive past nomads and their yak herds, tent hotels, and the green grasslands.

Once in town it is fairly easy to walk around as it is not too big, however, to walk the full length of town is a significantly long walk. The bus station is located on the main road, so if you arrive this way, getting to the heart of Aba is very easy. Taxis and three-wheelers are available, and due to the size of the town, getting anywhere in one shouldn’t cost you very much.

View from Kirti Gompa in Aba

Things to Know

Due to the elevation on the plateau, even in the midst of summer, it is likely you will need clothes for cooler temperatures and potentially some rain. Yet, when the sun is out, the elevation makes it fairly strong, so sunscreen is a recommended packing list item. It is also good to remember that this town is located at 3,200 meters, so if you are coming directly from a low-lying area (such as Chengdu), your body will need some time to adjust to the elevation.

September 1, 2016
Datshe Khupa (Yueliangwan)

Located just outside of Hong Yuan in the Amdo Tibetan region in Sichuan, one can find the scenic area known as Yueliangwan in Chinese, ཟླ་ཚེས་ཁུག་པ། in Tibetan. Moon Bay in English. The Chinese call this place Yueliangwan, while the Tibetan’s know it as Datsikhepa. Aptly named for the shape the river has formed through the grassland plateau, visitors to this place come to enjoy the vibrant colours of the grass and sky, while watching the grazing herds of yaks and cattle.

Moon Bay sits at an elevation of approximately 3,470 meters above sea level, and the bay itself is actually the snaking White River. This river drains into the headwaters of the Yellow River.

Looking out across the grasslands from the platform on the hill, one can see the scars on the land where the river has changed direction over the years, and it is these distinctive topographical features zigzagging back and forth that draw visitors to this area to see the natural beauty. This area is known for it’s nomads, making this a great place to snap a photo of the traditional black tent, or a grazing herd of yaks.

Inside Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Active Things to do at Moon Bay

While the primary reason for travellers to go to Moon Bay is to see the beauty of the grasslands, a few resourceful locals have banded together to provide other activities for visitors as well. Located at this place there are three main activities that the adventurous may like to try.

Horse Riding

If you dream of riding a horse on the Tibetan Plateau, a group of local nomads bring their horses saddled up and ready to ride. The cost for this is ¥50, but be warned, as far as we could tell, they simply lead you in around a pre-determined path. If you are interested, choose for yourself whether or not the ride is worth the price (there are a lot of other options for this in the area).

Horse riding area Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Zip-Lining

If you want to soar over the grasslands, there is a zip line running from the observation platform to the opposite hill. Trying this ride out will set you back ¥40, but it seemed quite popular. The entire time we were there, the line was in use.

Rafting

If you would rather paddle Moon Bay, there is a boat launch hidden around the corner from the main observation platform (head past the tents selling food). Renting a raft for multiple people costs ¥60. Rafters are launched into the river at the start of the bay, and a boom across the river will catch you in order to unload at the other end.

Rafting area in Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

Getting There

Located only 3 kilometers from Hong Yuan, head west out of town and take the right at the first fork in the road. There are several convenient options for getting to Moon Bay. A taxi cost us ¥25 one way, and we walked back to town in approximately 45 minutes. Walking back towards town is downhill, so going there may take you a little longer. There would also be the option of renting a private vehicle if you wish.

In order to see the grasslands at their prime beauty, the recommend time for visiting is between the months of June and September. While you can visit in the winter, the grasslands are covered in snow and the bay is frozen over. On the other hand, in the summer months, wild flowers bloom in the plateau, and the yaks have their calves underfoot.

Wear your sunscreen as the sun at this elevation is strong, but also be prepared for the cool breeze that can blow across the plateau. Don’t forget your camera, as this place presents wonderful opportunities for photos – be it as a backdrop for you and your travelling companions, or as the subject itself. Finally, we recommend that you pack a lunch with you, and take the opportunity to picnic on the Roof of the World.

beautiful green grassland in Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

September 1, 2016
Zoigê (Ruoergai)

The county town of Zoigê (མཛོད་དགེ་རྫོང་།)is located in the Amdo Tibetan region of Sichuan. Known for its Tibetan Nomads, Flower Lake, the Hequ horse, and more, this is a popular place for travellers wishing to see the Tibetan Plateau.Ruoergai (若尔盖) in Chinese.
Things to Visit Around Ruoergai

Flower Lake

Located a half hour drive north of Ruoergai, one can find the Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve. Commonly known in Chinese as Hua Hu, the literal translation is Flower Lake. This marshland is known for the flower shape of the lake (although it does flower in summer), it’s wildlife, and the view of the reeds poking up through the lake. The wildlife includes several endangered species, and is officially the homeland of the black-necked crane.

Yellow River’s First Bend

Affectionately known as the Mother River of China, the Yellow River is the second largest river in the PRC. Located on the border between the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the first turn in the Yellow River is a well traversed scenic spot located to the west of the town.

Flower lake in Ruoergai

Daza Temple

Officially know as Daza Temple of the Propitious & Goodness, this temple is located in the Northeast of Ruoergai town. Founded during the Qing Dynasty, today this temple belongs to the Gelugpa Sect with travellers coming to marvel at the architecture and cultural relics. Tours are available in Chinese and English for visitors.

Teiwu Valley

This valley is not as well known as some of the other scenic spots in Ruoergai County, but this is simply because it has yet to be discovered by mainstream tourism. Known as being the “Homeland of Deer”, this valley is a tranquil place to visit.

Daza Monastery in Ruoergai

Langmu Monasteries

Located on the border of the Sichuan and Gansu provinces, the Kirit Gompa belongs to the county of Ruoergai, while the Girti monastery belongs to Gansu. While this town is small, with almost a third of the population coming from the resident monks at the monastery alone, if you find yourself in Ruoergai, it is well worth the visit.

Getting There

When visiting Ruoergai, there are busses running to the area daily, with a bus from Chengdu (a gateway city to the Tibetan regions) taking approximately 12 hours. If you are not starting in Ruoergai, but rather it is simply a stop on your journey, bus or private vehicles are fairly easy to arrange from place to place.

On the other hand, if you choose to fly, there are airports located in Shaqu, Jiuzhaigou, or Hong Yuan, from which travelling by vehicle is not too difficult. (Depending on which airport you travel to will determine if a taxi or private vehicle hire is more economical).

Ruoergai Grassland

September 1, 2016
Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Located 8 kilometers outside of the prefectural capital of Maerkang lies the sleepy Rgyalrong Tibetan town of Zhuokeji. Follow the signs to the Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor and take a step back in time as you explore this village to get a feel for ancient Tibetan lifestyle, art, and architecture.

The History

Originally built in 1286, the village was destroyed by fire in 1936. However, instead of losing such a precious cultural site, the 16^th chieftain rebuilt the village in 1938 at the original site. As the chieftain was the highest official in charge of political, economic, and martial power in the area, the name Zhuokeji is the word for “supremacy” in Tibetan.

The Architecture

The village covers an area of 5,400 square meters, with the main building (the chieftain’s residence) built as a six story manor surrounding a central courtyard. This building has 63 rooms, with each room presenting an aspect of Tibetan lifestyle during the chieftains’ time. Set in the North at the back of the courtyard, rises six stories of the main building, with a five story wing on both the east and the west of the courtyard.

The courtyard and outside stairs are made of stone, and the building is a mix between a stone walled outer shell, and a wooden interior. The carving, painting, and character in this building is wonderful, and it is little wonder that it has been turned into a museum.

Inside Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Inside Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor

Every floor of this building holds something different about the lifestyle of Tibet in times gone by. While the first two floors show life in the village, the top floors are dedicated to the home of the chieftain and his family, and Tibetan cultural artifacts. These artifacts include silverwork, clothing, and Tibetan Opera costumes. Also on the upper floors are a few Buddhist temples, and a dinning hall for the monks.

Going There

Zhuokeji Tusi Official Manor is located at the top of a hill overlooking the city, so be prepared to climb a few stairs to reach the museum. These stairs are wide and easy, but it is the stairs inside to be careful on as the traditional Tibetan staircase is quite steep with narrow steeps.

The entrance fee to get inside the Chieftain’s residence was ¥60 (at the time of writing), and surrounding the main building itself is a wonderful town that you will want to wander at least briefly.

September 1, 2016
TurJe Chen Po (Guanyin Temple)

Located in the Jinchuan County of the Rgyalrong Tibetan Region, one will find the TurJe Chen Po(ཁྲོ་སྐྱབས་ཐུགས་རྗེ་ཆེན་པོ།). Known in Chinese as Guanyin Temple（观音庙）, this is the most pilgrimaged site in Amdo Tibet. The monastery is located at the top of Guanyin Mountain, and overlooks the Checen River as it flows through Guanyin Town.
History of the Guanyin Temple

In the 7^th century A.D. Rgyalrong Tibetan Region there were 18 Tusi Kings. At this time, the Guanyin Temple originally belonged to the Tshoscap King. Now the monastery is run by the Checen (Jinchuan) sect instead.

In recent years the monastery has been renovated and expanded upon. At the monastery today, one will find Guanyin Temple, Lotus Hall (all three layers of it), a restaurant, a bookstore, and more. The road up the side of the mountain has also recently been widened and repaved, making the journey a little less hair-raising for guests.

Every year, people come from Amdo, Kham, and sometimes even Lhasa to visit the Guanyin Temple. For some, this is a pilgrimage that begins in their hometown and ends at the monastery, and for those particularly devoted, it will include full body prostrations the entire way. In the Tibetan Buddhist’s mind, it is held with almost the same regard as Lhasa’s famous pilgrimage site, and therefore is commonly known as “the Second Potala Palace”. (Tagong Monastery is also held with similar regard.)

The peak season for Guanyin Temple is in the winter when the locals have the time to make the pilgrimage. It is during the Spring Festival (which is actually held at the end of winter) that the monastery tends to see some of its largest crowds.

Outside Guanyin Temple (Thurje Chen po)

Getting There

Guests traveling from Maerkang to the temple can take the bus to the town of Guanyin, before making their way up the mountain to the monastery. The bus between Maerkang and Guanyin town takes approximately two hours leaving Maerkang at 7:00am, and returning from Guanyin at 3:00pm (current at the time of writing).

Once in Guanyin town, travellers have two options of actually reaching the top of Guanyin Mountain. If you choose to walk it, there are stairs leading up the mountain which cut out some of the winding back and forth that the road takes. Alternatively, from Guanyin Town, it is relatively cheap and easy to rent a car to take you up the mountain (and again back down).

Beautiful View from Guanyin Temple (TurJe Chen Po)

Visiting

When you have arrived at Guanyin Monastery, guests may respectfully participate in the religious activities if they choose. If you enter Guanyin Temple, you will be asked to remove your shoes, but Lotus Hall does not require this. There is no entrance fee for the monastery, although you will see donations inside at the altars. Feel free to take photos outside of the stunning valley, or the ornate architecture, but respect that inside the buildings others are there to worship.

Besides this aspect, guests enjoy the view from the monastery of the luscious green valley below. The trip to the top of the mountain is worth it for the breath-taking view alone! Standing on the platform down the stairs directly across from Guanyin Temple, play a little game of eye-spy to find the elephant shaped mountain or the giant prayer wheel in the midst of town.

A stupa in Guanyin Temple (TurJe Chen Po)

If you get hungry, at the bottom of the stairs to the right there is another staircase leading down to a restaurant that is reasonably priced. There is a bookstore located just past the temple if you are looking for something to remember your visit by, however, English books are in short supply.

September 1, 2016
Aba Zang Feng Hotel

In Aba, you will find the Aba Zang Feng Hotel where travelers go to experience a little bit of the local Tibetan hospitality and kindness. You will also find that the hotel is one of the most comfortable and cleanest in town. A local Tibetan couple Nima and his wife Norbu Tso run the hotel, and they welcome guests from all over the world as they have the legal permission to accommodate both domestic and international visitors. Opened in 2015, this was the first locally-owned Tibetan home-style hotel in the town of Aba.
Both Nima and Norbu Tso are teachers at the local Tibetan middle school. Their polite and warm service will make your journey easier and more enjoyable. They are always happy to help you out if you want them to assist you with anything. For example, they will help you if you need to rent a car to drive around the town or visit any of the scenery in Aba. Nima has a small car, so he may even offer to drive you himself if he is not busy. As locals in the area, they have a host of information up their sleeve which they will willingly provide to you as you need it.

The Aba Zang Feng Hotel has single, double, and triple rooms, and one “family style” room to accommodate their guests. The Family Style room is a big space with a comfortable sofa/lounge area, bathroom, and a private kitchen, making this perfect if you are traveling with your family or friends and want a little more space. Internet is available at the hotel, along with plenty of hot water, so your stay at their hotel should be relatively refreshing.

Aba Zang Feng Hotel’s family style room.

The entire hotel has Tibetan decorations, although the architecture is not quite in the Tibetan style. The top floor of the hotel gives a great view of the entire town, allowing guests to appreciate their surroundings. If you ask for it, the couple is happy to provide you with local milk tea or green tea. The stairs leading to each floor open onto a hallway landing complete with a quaint set of table and chairs perfect for enjoying your tea, or waiting for a friend. The hotel location is also conveniently located near the supermarket, antique market, and the Kirti Monastery.

None of the hotels in Aba town are fully Tibetan in style, so Nima and Norbu Tso are planning to build another hotel in Aba that will be designed and decorated in the traditional Tibetan architecture. As teachers, both of them are very passionate about education, so they also hope to support poor students with their school fees in the future. We hope to see Nima and Norbu Tso continue to fulfill their dreams as they are a very sweet and hardworking couple.

The hall of the hotel is a very nice place to enjoy local tea.

We strongly believe that by staying at the Aba Zang Feng Hotel you will have a culturally rewarding and pleasant stay. When we visited here, the couple continued to go above and beyond our expectations, continually offering us services we didn’t even know we wanted, but really ended up thankful for! We walked in their front door as complete strangers, and after the couple of days we spent at their hotel, we left feeling as if we had just made a friends with their family.

Contact Info:

Address: 40 meters on the right side of Aba Township Government Building, Aba Town.

Phone: 13568799927

地址：阿坝镇政府新办公大楼旁

联系电话：13568799927

August 24, 2016
Hua Hai Hotel

Hong Yuan is a very good place for travelers to explore the Tibetan nomadic life. When staying in the area there are a few tent hotels available but this option often means a private shower is not possible. However, if you are looking for a nice and comfortable bed with a private shower and pretty good internet, we are happy to recommend you Hua Hai hotel. The hotel itself is about what you would expect in your average hotel, but we appreciate the young entrepreneurial spirit of the ownership.
The hotel is located just off of Hong Yuan’s main road, meaning it is not one of the most visible places to stay in town. Still, it is a wonderfully quiet street, and conveniently located close to the grasslands. We also like that the price is reasonable for guests, and with 24 double rooms in the hotel, there should be plenty of space for you and your traveling companions. If you are traveling with a vehicle or bike, guests are also able to park these inside the hotel’s gates each night for a little added security.

Inside of the Hua Hai Hotel

Founded in May of 2016 by a young local Tibetan guy named Lengzhou, Hua Hai Hotel is his first crack at the entrepreneurial can. Lengzhou has been volunteering for an organization since he graduated from college where he is mainly in charge of sponsoring local low-income students and taking care of vulnerable seniors. Lengzhou enjoyed his work but at the same time he was hungry to become an entrepreneur. He opened the hotel with his family’s support, and while currently there are only 2 employees now, he is hoping to hire more local staff in the future.

Lengzhou also said that he would like to build another hotel with Tibetan style and decoration after he has gained some experience running and managing the Hua Hai Hotel. We wish him success in his entrepreneurship journey that he may help more local people and the travelers who find their way in his front door!

Front desk of Hua Hai Hotel

Contact Info:

Address: East of Gangre street of Qiongxi town, Hongyuan county town.

Phone: 18227711633

地址：四川省红原县邛溪镇岗热街东侧

电话： 18227711633

August 19, 2016
Hong Yuan (Krhongche)

The city of Hong Yuan（红原) is located on the Tibetan Plateau in the Amdo region of Sichuan, and is also known in Tibetan as Krhongche (ཁྱུང་མཆུ།). Hong Yuan sits at an altitude of 3,400m (11,000ft.), and has a population of about 50,000 people. The town was named in 1960 by the Chinese Prime Minister Zhouenlai in memory of the Long March by the Red Army through the grasslands in the 1930s. This town is known for several things including the surrounding grasslands, nomads, and for producing yak meat and dairy products.
Things to Do in Hong Yuan

There are several things to do in and around Hong Yuan including a visit to Moon Bay, enjoying the nomadic life, and trying your coordination at the community Tibetan Dancing.

Moon Bay (Yueliangwan)

The most well known of these is a visit to Moon Bay located just 3kms to the west of the town. Moon Bay is a wonderful site to see White River zigzagging its way through the grasslands filled with yak herds. Organized activities here include a zip-line, short horse rides, and rafting, while this also makes a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Beautiful Moon Bay in Hong Yuan

Nomadic Life

For those wishing to experience Nomadic Tibetan Life, there are several places in the area that have opened tent hotels and offer guests trail rides across the plateau. Those who choose to stay in one of these options do so for the sake of experiencing nomadic life complete with tent, campfires, and stars.

Tibetan Dancing

Every night all ages can be found dancing in the town square in the traditional Tibetan style. This is open to the public, and as this is a circle dance, joining in is easy. While you will get some curious smiles as you learn the steps, the dancers are friendly to those willing to try, so copy the person in front of you, and you will soon catch on.

Tips for the non-dancer: some of the dances are more complicated than others, so if one if proving a little too challenging, take a breather, and enjoy watching the pros. Also, if you are really struggling with the footwork, concentrate on the arms, and shuffle your way along. Otherwise, relax, enjoy yourself, and keep trying (they all learned this once too)!

Yaks grazing on the beautiful Hong Yuan Grassland.

Flower Sea

During the months of June and July visitors to Hong Yuan enjoy a visit to Flower Sea. This “sea” is actually a carpet of grassland wildflowers, and is approximately 30 minutes drive from the town.

Things to Know in Hong Yuan

When looking for a meal in town, there are two primary streets for food. While the main street (S 209 Road) holds quite a few nice restaurants, the prices here indicate they profit a bit from the tourists. If you are looking for the more reasonably price food, head over to Jiangxi Street to find the places the locals tend to frequent.

When looking down the streets of Hong Yuan, it seems that there are concrete and bricks being laid everywhere! This city appears to have had quite the facelift in recent years, making for some fairly pretty and fairly wide streets.

The river running through Hong Yuan County Town.

Getting There

Hong Yuan Airport is located 48kms southwest of the town, and is only open for certain months of the year. The exact dates of operation change slightly every year, but the rule of thumb is flights tend to only run in the summer months. This airport is fairly new as it only opened in August of 2014.

If you don’t choose to fly, one of the best ways to get into Hong Yuan is the bus which comes from most of the major towns in the area daily (Chengdu, Maerkang, Aba, Ruoergai, etc.). The bus station has just been renovated, and is conveniently located on the main road of the town.

August 19, 2016