Category: Central Tibet

Central Tibet

The region of Tibet often called “Central” is not so much a geographical designation as a recognition of the centrality of Lhasa in Tibetan history as the home of the Dalai Lama “god-kings”, the imposing Potala Palace and the ancient Jokhang Temple, a place of pilgrimage for all Tibetans. The big three Buddhist monasteries of the Gelugpa sect, Drepung, Sera, and Ganden, are within easy reach of Lhasa itself and give the visitor insight into the unique monastic aspect of traditional Tibetan life. Central Tibet is home to the cradle of Tibetan civilization, Tsetang (south of Lhasa), where the first monastery, Samye monastery, was built in the eighth century. Shigatse is also only a day’s journey from Lhasa and is the traditional home of the Panchen Lama and the Tashi Lhunpo monastery.

People of Central Tibet

Central Tibetans are traditionally farmers and nomads. Outside of Lhasa city in the valleys that follow the parallel rivers of Kyichu and Yarlung Tsampo, sit farming communities that have existed for centuries. Historically, these farmers bring there crops into Lhasa to trade for meat, salt, and other products available through the shop keepers in Lhasa and the nomads that have come to the city from the vast grasslands north of Lhasa. Central Tibetans love festivals and continue to celebrate their heritage with annual religious events such as Losar (the Tibetan New Year) and the Shodön “Yoghurt Festival” which features Tibetan Opera and a yearly unveiling of a huge Thangka or religious painting.

Mountains & Lakes

Famously, Central Tibet is home to the highest mountains on earth. On the border with Nepal sits Mt. Everest (Jomolongma in Tibetan) and 4 other peaks over 8000m: Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma. In far western Tibet, Mt Kailash draws pilgrims from Tibet and across South Asia representing four different religions. Central Tibet is known for two famous emerald lakes: Yamdrok sits between Lhasa and the Himalaya range, while Namtso is north of Lhasa and supports a large nomadic population.

Transportation

Access to Central Tibet from within China is made convenient by domestic flights from many cities across the country, all flights being operated by one of the following airlines: Air China, China Eastern, China Southern, Sichuan, Shenzhen, Hainan, and Tibet airlines. However, purchasing flights to Lhasa direct from one of the above airlines is usually not possible. The reason for this is to prevent foreign travelers from purchasing flights without the needed Tibet Travel Permit (usually happens due to ignorance). For this reason domestic flights to Central Tibet are most often booked by the same travel company through which a traveler obtains his or her TTP. The only international flight that flies into Lhasa Gonggar Airport is from Kathmandu, Nepal.

Next to air travel, the most popular means of travel to Central Tibet is the train. Those who enjoy scenery prefer to see China from the ground. Departing from Beijing or Chengdu requires over 40 hours on the train to reach Lhasa, while boarding in Xining will cut the journey in half and allow travellers to enjoy the scenery of the Tibetan plateau for the duration of the trip. Be sure to book a soft sleeper bed as they are the most comfortable and only have four beds per cabin, as opposed to six per cabin for a hard sleeper. Travel overland to Central Tibet by private vehicle is the least popular due to both the cost and organization required. However, there are many travel companies that will happily arrange a private vehicle for travellers who desire an overland journey to Central Tibet. There are two main advantages: vehicle travel offers the best possible experience of taking in the land and the people, and the several days required for the trip allows you to naturally acclimatize along the way.

For a helpful introduction to the geography of Tibet’s three regions relative to each other and the rest of China, be sure to visit our page on Tibet Travel Essentials.

Yamdrok Yumtso (Yamdrok Lake)

Yamdrok, Yamdroktso (ཡར་འབྲོག་གཡུ་མཚོ། ), or Yamdrok Yumtso, is a breathtaking lake lying between the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, and the town of Gyantse. Yamdrok Lake is viewable along the old Friendship Highway that links Tibet with Nepal, and is a favorite route for those heading to Everest Base Camp. Sitting at an altitude of 4,441 meters above sea level, the lake is 130 kilometers in length and 70 kilometers in wide at its furthest spot. Yamdrok is the largest inland and freshwater lake on the northern Himalayan range with an average depth of 20 to 40 meters, and the deepest point being 60 meters.
Summer time views of the lake offer green carpeted slopes on the surrounding hills.

Yamdrok Lake has a unique coral shape with numerous streams feeding it from nearby mountains, hence the locals refer to it as Coral Lake. It is also sometimes called Green Jade Lake for its smooth surface similar to the fine jade, and its gorgeous color hues from the reflection of sunlight.

Religious Significance of Yamdrok Lake

Yamdrok Lake is one of the four largest sacred lakes of Tibet along with Lake Lhamo Latso, Lake Manasarovar, and Lake Namtso. According to Tibetans, the lake is considered as the life line of the inhabitants. It is said if the lake dries up, Tibet would become an inhabitable place. The lake is considered to be guarded by the goddess Dorje Gegkyi Tso. Tibetans perform pilgrimage to Yamdrok Lake and circumambulate around the lake in seven days to wash away their sins and earn merit. The lake’s spiritual energies are associated with the Second Buddha, Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. Moreover, Buddhists believe Lake Yamdrok helps them find the reincarnated soul of the Dalai Lama. There is also the famous Samding Monastery headed by a female reincarnation on a peninsula near the lake.

Yamdrok Lake with snow capped mountains in the backround

Natural Habitat in and around Yamdrok Lake

The crystal clear, freshwaters of the Yamdrok Lake and its surroundings are home to fish, migratory birds and flocks of sheep. Yamdrok Yumtso Lake has shoals of freshwater fish named Gymnocypris przewalskii, which swim to the shallow water to lay eggs every summer. The lake is the largest habitat for migratory birds in southern Tibet as well. During the season, the lake bank and its islands are dotted with numerous birds and their offspring. There are no wild animals in the region but local Tibetans can be seen grazing herds of goats, sheep and yaks on the rich summer pastures.

June 21, 2016
Norbulingka Summer Palace

Located on the western edge of Lhasa at the bank of River Kyichu and just a kilometer from the famous Potala Palace, Norbulingka Palace (ནོར་བུ་གླིང་ག) offers the best landscapes in the region. Spread over an area of 360,000 square meters, Norbulingka features the summer palaces of the Dalai Lamas with 374 rooms, and the largest, most beautiful, and well-preserved gardens in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Norbulingka (Luobulinka in Chinese) means Treasure or Jeweled Park in Tibetan. Listed by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 2001, Norbulingka reflects the religious and ethnic aspects of the Tibetan, Han Chinese, and other tribes with its impressive architecture. Norbulingka houses more than 30,000 cultural relics and is a national tourist attraction of the Tibetan region.

An annual Shoton Festival in the first week of July is held at Norbulingka where people enjoy food and drinks, and watch Tibetan operas along with traditional dances.

History of Norbulingka

In the past, the area was prevalent with weeds, scrubs, and wild animals, and was frequently visited by the 7^th Dalai Lama in the summer. Some records suggested the Dalai Lama used the hot springs in the area to cure his health problems. The Imperial Minister of the Qing Dynasty ordered for a Pavilion Palace to be built for the Dalai Lama as a summer retreat.

Later in 1751, a three-floor palace named Kelsang Potrang inside Norbulingka itself was added by the 7^th Dalai Lama which consisted of the Buddha hall, an assembly hall, a reading room, a god temple, and a bedroom. The 8^th Dalai Lama made additions to Norbulingka in the form of palaces such as the Dragon King Temple, the Lake Heart Palace, and Han-style pavilion and gardens. Up until the 14^th Dalai Lama, Norbulingka had seen many extensions, and now is a complex with many palaces, flower gardens, and lakes.

Just a small section, Norbulingka holds one of the largest and well-preserved gardens in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

Palaces of Norbulingka

Norbulingka has five distinct sections: Kelsang Palace, Tsokyil Palace, Golden Linka, Takten Migyur Palace, and Lake Heart Palace. Each palace has three main sections: the palace area, the forest area, and the area in front of the palace. (Note: the Tibetan word for “Palace” is “Potrang”.)

Kelsang Palace

This palace was built by the 7^th Dalai Lama in typical Tibetan style and consists of worship rooms, reading rooms, and bedrooms. The main hall features the throne of the 7^th Dalai Lama amidst statues of Guanyin Bodhisattva and Longevity Buddha.

Tsokyil Palace

It lies to the northwest of Kelsang Palace in the midst of the lake and is the most attractive pavilion built by the 8^th Dalai Lama.

Golden Linka and Chensel Palace

To the northwest of Kelsang Phodrong lies also the Chensel Palace and on the west side of Norbulingka is the Golden Phodron. Both these were built in 1922 by a benefactor for the 13^th Dalai Lama.

Lake Heart Palace

The most beautiful area in southwest Norbulingka, the Lake Heart Palace was built by the 8th Dalai Lama to hold parties with dignitaries.

Takten Migyur Palace

Completed by 1956, Takten Migyur Palace was built by the 14^th Dalai Lama and is also referred to as the New Summer Palace. More magnificent and larger than the other palaces, the New Palace features exquisite murals of Sakyamuni and his eight contemplative disciples, and also those related to the development of Tibet.

June 21, 2016
Jokhang Temple

Standing four stories tall, spread over an area of about 25,000 square meters in the heart of Lhasa, the UNESCO World Heritage Jokhang Temple (ཇོ་ཁང་།) with its golden roof is an esoteric blend of local Tibetan elements with Nepalese, Chinese, and Indian influences.
The spinning of prayer wheels, murmur of mantras, and humble prostrations of devout pilgrims all year long but especially at Losar during the Great Prayer Festival show the significance of this revered spiritual center of Tibet.

Destroyed twice during the anti-Buddhist movements in the late 7th century and middle of the 9th century, and once during the Chinese Cultural Revolution in the 1960s, the spectacular Jokhang Temple has been regularly expanded and extensively reconstructed over the years.

The History Behind Jokhang Temple

The impressive Jokhang Temple was initiated in 647 AD by the famous King Songtsen Gampo, the first King of Unified Tibet during the Tang Dynasty. In order to strengthen ties with neighboring Nepal, he married Princess Bhrikuti in 630AD, who was the Nepalese king’s sister. In her dowry, she brought the statue of Akshobhya Buddha (or Mikyoba). Later on in 641AD, he took Princess Wencheng as his second wife, who was related to Tang Chinese emperor. Princess Wencheng also brought the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha.

In order to house the two statues of Akshobhya Buddha and Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha, two temples were built on Lake Wothang. The Ramoche Temple was built to hold the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni. After some time, the King also ordered the erection of the Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang, another temple to contain the statue of Akshobhya Buddha. After the death of the King in 649 AD, Queen Wencheng transferred the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni from the Ramoche temple and hid it away in the temple of Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang during the Chinese invasion. The Akshobhya Vajra statue then traded places with former and moved to the Ramoche temple. Later in 710 AD, the Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang Temple was renamed Jokhang, which means ‘Shrine of the Jowo’.

Originally the temple consisted of only eight shrines. But later on it was renovated and expanded during the Yuan Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty, and the Qing Dynasty to the massive monastery it is today.

From 8 shrines, Jokhang Temple has grown across many dynasties into the impressive temple it is today

Legends Surrounding the Jokhang Temple

There are various legends surrounding the establishment of the Jokhang Temple. One legend states that Queen Bhrikuti established the temple to contain the statue, while Queen Wencheng picked the location according to the astrological signs and geomancy divination. Lake Wothang was believed to be the center of demonic forces and only a grand temple on the spot would drive away the evils preventing the spread of Buddhism in Tibet.

According to another legend, the King tossed his ring into the air for the spirits to indicate where he should construct the temple. Upon falling into a lake, a stupa surfaced from the water. The temple site at the lake was filled with sand carried by a thousand goats from a faraway mountain, thus giving it its first name, Rasa (‘ra’ is goat and ‘sa’ is earth in Tibetan).

Architectural Highlights

The outside of the temple is adorned with the early representations of Buddhism such as deer and wheel motifs, while the interior presents a maze of chapels devoted to different gods and bodhisattvas and a significant collection of cultural artifacts surrounded by candles and incense. The holiest object in Tibet, a life-size statue of Jowo Shakyamuni adorned with jewels, is the heart of the Jokhang Temple.

June 21, 2016
Lhasa

Lhasa (ལྷ་ས་) has been considered the capital of the Tibetan peoples since as early as the 7th century. After conquering several surrounding kingdoms and two significant political marriages with Chinese and Nepali princesses, Songtsan Gampo became the first leader of a unified Tibetan Empire. He began construction on a palace which formed the foundation and determined the design of the current Potala Palace. In 641, he built the Jokhang Temple to house a treasured gold statue of Siddartha Guattama dating back to the Buddha’s lifetime.
Pilgrims visit Lhasa from all corners of Tibet to worship at the Jokhang Temple

Modern day Lhasa is interesting in and of itself. Though there is a larger Chinese population in the city than Tibetans these days, they have predominatly settled on the Western side of the city. The Central and Eastern parts of town are where you will find the majority of the Tibetan population and all of the significant cultural sights.

When traveling to Lhasa, there are a few things to remember. Due to it’s location within the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), you will need both a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) and a Chinese Visa to enter Lhasa as a foreign traveler. Once you arrive, especially if you have come by air, it is important to remember that with such a dramatic change in elevation every traveler will experience at least minor discomfort. This includes minor headaches, disturbed sleep, lack of appetite, and sometimes minor dizziness, so take things easy for the first couple of days. The body naturally adjusts within two to three days, although some find themselves fine after the first day, but watch yourself and your traveling companions for elevation related symptoms. While the vast majority of people will be fine after two or three days, in serious cases medical evacuation may be neccessary, so don’t take this too lightly.

Drepung monastery sits on the north side of town with a beautiful view of the Lhasa valley

Lhasa (or Lasa (拉萨) in Mandarin) is home to many cultural relics, including three UNESCO world heritage sites – the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, and Norbulingka (and Summer Palace). The three most popular Gelugpa sect monasteries can all be accessed from Lhasa: Drepung and Sera monasteries sit just outside of the city; Ganden monastery is just over an hour away, so many make a day trip out of it. Sera Monastery is famous for their live debates starting at 3pm Monday to Friday (sometimes Saturday), and many visitors are drawn like a bug to the flame to watch these lively conversations. Barkhor Plaza and Old Town surrounds Jokhang Temple with bustling foot traffic. Souvenir shops, jewelry and clothing stores, and restaurants abound, which makes walking the stone paved alleys around Barkhor Plaza and Old Town a cultural experience in and of itself.

A variety of cuisine can be found in Lhasa, and often all within the same menu. You can enjoy a decent burger and fries while, your companion can choose anything from Nepali set meals to Indian curries or Tibetan momos. The majority of chefs at Lhasa’s best restaurants are Nepali.

Your guide can help you book tickets to visit the Potala Palace, which is a must see. The maze of candle lit rooms on the inside is fascinating, and the park on the backside of the palace is refreshingly beautiful. Take an evening after dinner to stroll in the square, and snap some night photography of the Potala Palace.

The beauty of the Potala Palace rises over Lhasa and is visible from anywhere in the Lhasa valley

Though the ticket price is high (seats start at approximately $60 USD), the live outdoor theater performance of Princess Wencheng is impossible to describe with words or capture with a camera. It has a cast of 800 members, along with live yaks, sheep, and horses all featured on the 150m wide stage. With the mountains south of Lhasa as the backdrop, the show begins at dark, and lasts for an hour and a half.

While visiting Lhasa, many travellers make their way outside of the city to Yamdrok Lake. Yamdrok is a freshwater lake over 72kms long, and it is one of the biggest sacred lakes in Tibet. Being located only 100km south of the city makes it a popular day trip.

For travelers who are interested, the New Year (Losar), Saga Dawa, and Chökor Düchen festivals are three of the biggest yearly festivals celebrated in Lhasa. Particularly the New Year and Saga Dawa festivals see the city splashed with colour, with thousands of pilgrims coming to the holy city from all corners of Tibet.

June 20, 2016
Shigatse (Rikaze)

Also known as Rikaze (日喀则), Shigatse (གཞིས་ཀ་རྩེ་ས་) is the second largest city in Central Tibet. It is a prefectural capital city with a population of over 700,000, and is most famously known for Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery is home to the Panchen Lama, the second highest lama in the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, and best survived the excesses of China’s cultural revolution. It still functions as an active monastic community today. Shigatse is easily accessed by road, rail or air from Lhasa, the provincial capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Tourists typically stop through on their way to Everest Base Camp and Nepal, therefore it is known as the “Gateway to Everest.”
The fastest and most direct way to Shigatse from Lhasa by vehicle is the newer Friendship Hwy (also known as the northern Friendship Hwy) that links Tibet with Nepal. This is a 270km trip that takes 5 hours due to strict speed control. It follows the Yarlung Tsampo river valley for most of the route where the farming lifestyle on the Tibetan plateau can be seen along the way. There is also a popular scenic route along the “old” Friendship Hwy that takes you over the Khamba La pass for a sweeping view of Yamdrok Lake, past the Karola Glacier, and through Gyantse – home of the largest stupa in Tibet. Most travelers will request to take the scenic route on one of the directions when traveling to and from Shigatse. A three hour train ride is an option as well.

Entrance to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.

While in Shigatse, a tour of Tashilhunpo Monastery is essential. For those interested in visiting the various chapels and halls within the monastery grounds it is best to go in the morning before they get locked up for lunch soon after 12:00pm. Photographers be aware that photography fees are collected in each chapel and can be as expensive as RMB 150 per chapel! Travelers can opt to join both the locals and pilgrims from afar to do the lingkhor (“holy path”) around the monastery. There are essentially two routes that can be taken. First, is the path around the immediate monastery grounds that can take up to one hour depending on your pace. There is also a longer route that takes you over to the Shigatze Dzong (fort), destroyed in the 1960s but rebuilt in 2007, which can take up to three hours. The fortress perches over the town and resembles the Potala Palace. Walking the lingkhor, or Kora, is a great way to mix with the locals, get some wonderful photos, and further acclimatize spending a day at 3,800 meters above sea level.

As most cities in China are growing rapidly in modernization, this town is no exception, meaning there are several good hotel options available. The Gesar Hotel, though not as convenient to the city center, has beautiful Tibetan themed rooms, a decent breakfast, and several good restaurants nearby. The Manasarova Hotel is in the city center, also Tibetan themed, but older and getting a little run down.

April 7, 2016
Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

Also known as Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ། )in Tibetan, (珠穆朗玛峰 in Chinese), the mere mention of the name “Everest” already evokes enough pictures in our imaginations: ice axes, climbing ropes, avalanches, sherpas, basecamps and lots and lots of snow. The tallest point from sea level on planet earth (8,848m) is assisted to its dizzying heights by the craggy edge of the vaulted Tibetan plateau that it rests on. Since Sir Edmund Hilary’s successful summit in 1953, tens of thousands of climbers have attempted to add their names to the list. Some have given their lives trying. There are over 200 corpses on this mountain, and their remains are humbling reminders of the difficulty of the quest.
The approach to the mountain.

Less known facts about Everest are that it sits on the China Nepal border-the north face on the China side (also known as the “Tibet side”) and the south face on the Nepal side. There are two approaches to climbing this mountain, known respectively as the “South Col Route” and the “North Col Route.” There are two “Everest Base Camps,” on each respective side of the mountain. In fact, there are more than that at different elevations on the climb to the summit. However, tourists without a climbing permit can only visit the lowest Base Camp on either side. Which camp you plan to visit depends on which country you are in: China or Nepal. There is no border crossing at Mt. Everest, although there used to be a border crossing at Dram (Zhangmu) about an eight-hour drive to the West (on the China Tibet side). However, since the Nepal earthquakes in 2015, that border has been closed and another in the Gyirong Valley (even farther west) has been opened in its stead.

Windhorses (prayer flags) flap in the wind outside of the base camp.

The mountain is named in English after Sir George Everest who was the Surveyor General of India in the early 1800s. The original Tibetan name of the mountain, Mount Qomolangma, means “Holy Mother.” The Chinese also refer to the mountain as 圣母峰－ Shengmufeng (“Holy Mother Peak”). One Chinese perspective is that the mountain should not be referred to as “Everest” as that name was prescribed by foreign English geological surveyors in the late 19th century, but should rather be referred to internationally as Qomolangma. The Chinese transliteration of Qomolangma, 珠穆朗玛峰, has been established since the early 18th century.

Mt. Everest by night.

As of early 2015, there is a paved road from New Tingri to Everest Basecamp on the China (Tibet) side. The North Face of Everest arguably offers the most stunning views of the mountain. Many consider the north side views of Everest as the best. The ease of access on the China side has attracted much more tourism, though numbers of tourists are still lower on average than the Nepal side. On the north side, Chinese tourists are the vast majoriy. On the south side, foreign tourists outnumber local Nepalese.

Inside a tent hotel at Everest.

April 7, 2016
Tsetang ( Zedang)

Nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yarlung Tsampo River basin, Tsetang (རྩེད་ཐང་།) was the perfect place to start a new civilization. Referred to as Zedang in Chinese (泽当), Tibetans consider this quaint city the birthplace of their people. According to legend, the union of an ogress and a monkey led to the first Tibetan people. Regardless of how you believe the first Tibetans got to the Yarlung Tsangbo River valley basin, history does attest to this region being the cradle of the earliest Tibetan civilizations on the Qinghai Tibet Plateau. The Tibetan peoples spread out from Zedang over time, venturing to less fertile, harsher areas. The famed first emperor of the entire Tibetan plateau (33rd king), Songtsan Gampo and his father hail from this area.
Zedang is nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yearling River basin.

Visiting Zedang

As the fourth largest town in Tibet, Tsetang city is a bustling town with modern streets. It is the capital city of Shannan Prefecture with nearly 16,000 residents and governs 13 other counties in the region. There is little about the town itself that would merit a visit, but the surrounding area is full of history and beauty. Accommodation options are limited in this remote town, but the Tsetang Hotel offers surprising comfort with decent wifi and friendly staff. Breakfast is passable but certainly not memorable, while other meals would be best enjoyed somewhere else in town.

Around Tsetang

Samye monastery is known as the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and is only 30 km from Tsetang. It is a must see. In closer proximity (9km) is Yumbulagang, the first Tibetan palace for the first king of Tibet from the second century BCE. Songtsan Gampo used this as a summer palace in the seventh century CE and it was converted into a Gelugpa sect monastery in the 16th century CE. Yumbulagang is considered the oldest known dwelling in Tibet and its location combined with the style of construction makes it feel more like a fortress than a palace. The easy climb up the winding stairs is well worth the view of the valley from the top and visitors are permitted to enter the small chapel of this ancient palace turned monastery.

Samye Monastery Tsetang

South of Tsetang lies the vast Himalaya Mountain Range that stretches across the southern border of the Tibetan plateau, and to the north of town are the Nyanchen Tanggula mountains. It is in between these two ranges that the Yarlung Tsampo river runs and the valley becomes the widest and most fertile in the Tsetang area. The city sits on the south bank of the river. A popular three day trek in the area begins from Ganden Monastery outside Lhasa and heads south over the Shugu La and Chitu La passes before arriving at Samye Monastery (alternatively you can do it the other direction of course). From there you can hire a local vehicle to take you the 30km to Tsetang.

Transportation

It is a three and a half hour drive (160km) from Lhasa to Tsetang. The trip involves retracing the route to the Lhasa Gonggar Airport, before following the Yarlung Tsampo River as it flows east to Tsetang. Due to its proximity to the airport, some travelers choose to visit Tsetang before going to Lhasa. Besides avoiding retracing your steps after going to Lhasa, the big benefit to visiting Tsetang first is the lower elevation (the town sits at 3100m, more than 500m lower than Lhasa) which helps travelers adjust more naturally to the high elevation of the Tibetan plateau, especially on the first night.

April 1, 2016
Namtso Lake

Located in Central Tibet, on the south side of Namtso Lake (གནམ་མཚོ།), travellers will find a lakeside tourist town selling souvenirs, hot sweet milk tea, selfies with yaks, and very basic accommodations. The route from the 109 highway will lead travellers straight to this town located at the base of the Tashi Dor peninsula. Peak season at Namtso Lake exhibits a carnival atmosphere that is both fun and overwhelming. The fun is found in meeting travellers from all over the world in a remote wonderland of beauty. The over the top side of things is a result of too-eager locals seeking to capitalize on the commercialism in the area. Be aware of people offering pictures with their animals, for which they subsequently request payment beyond what you were expecting. Nonetheless, the hotels have pretty fast internet, and the milk tea hits the spot. The Tashi Dor Monastery with the accompanying hermit caves are located just beyond town on the peninsula.
Visitors on the shore of Namtso Lake.

If you are up for a hike, the 40-minute climb to the top of the Tashi Hill is your best option. There is usually a stream of people heading in the same direction, which makes the trail easy to find. But really, it’s hard to get lost. It’s a narrow peninsula, so just head toward the lake up the hill. You may need to stop a few times on the way up, because, you are approaching 16,000 feet in elevation (4,800 meters). Half-way up, there is a nice view of the lake and fairly decent view of the sun’s descent. Most tourists stop here then turn around. Keep going to the end. It’s very worthwhile. After another 20 minutes of climbing, an almost 360 degree body of water comes into view. The silver, shimmering surface reflects the deep blue sky and the bright colors of the sunset. The colors in the sky change so quickly, that after your 400th shot of the same horizon, your finger begins to tire and your ISO can’t go any higher.

March 28, 2016
Potala Palace

Located in Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region, one can find the famous Potala Palace( ཕོ་བྲང་པོ་ཏ་ལ། ). As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this remarkable set of buildings is visited by thousands of tourists daily. “Potala” itself comes from the Hindi name of a mountain in Southern India, while in Sanskrit it means, “The Abode of the Buddha.” Construction of the palace began in 1643 and was completed (the white part of the building) in 1694 under the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama. The Potala was home to each successive Dalai Lama, until the construction of Norbulingka Summer Palace in the late 18^th century (also one of Lhasa’s three UNESCO sites), at which point the Potala became their primary winter residence.

The site of the Potala Palace is significant because it is built on top of a cave that King Songtsan Gampo fled to in exile during the 8th century after his father was assassinated Julius-Ceasar-style by his ministers. It was Songtsan Gampo that established Lhasa as the new center of political and religious power in Tibet.

The Potala Palace at night makes for a stunning photo.

Previous to the Potala Palace, the seat of political and religious authority in Tibet was the Drepung Monastery, also located in Lhasa. The Drepung Monastery is of the Gelugpa sect, which practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”

The Potala Palace is one of the highest altitude palaces in the world, sitting on Marpo Ri (“Red Hill”) above Lhasa. The palace itself is a construction of over 1000 rooms, and was completed in two parts. The White Palace (Kharpo Podrang) was built first, and was a nine story undertaking that took 3 years. The Red Palace (Marpo Podrang), has a little more of an interesting history. Some believe that the fifth Dalai Lama had the Red Palace built with the intention that it would be his funerary chörten. While that is debated, it is agreed that in 1682, twelve years prior to the completion of the Red Palace, the 5th Dalai Lama died, and the chief minister under him concealed his death until the Palace could be completed to prevent the construction being terminated.

A pilgram walks the Kora around the Potala Palace.

Visiting the Potala Palace

When visiting the Potala Palace, travellers will often rely on their guide to secure them entry. During high season, the Palace has a quota in place to help deal with the number of tourists attempting to see this world renowned site. As a result, the day before you intend to visit, your guide will need to go to an office before noon to reserve your time slot. During the winter months (November to April), you should be able to buy a ticket on the spot.

While photography inside the Potala is prohibited, the outside is fair game. Enjoy the stunning palace grounds, and magnificent architecture that this palace is known for. Climb the massive ambling staircase to enter the front of the palace, but be warned that if you are still adjusting to Lhasa’s altitude, it may take longer than one might expect. Once inside, gaze at the exquisite murals, examine some of the personal effects of the Dalai Lama, and view a number of chapels (amongst so much more), before exiting the rear of the Palace.

March 14, 2016
Zhangmu (Dram) Border Crossing

*UPDATE JUNE 2016: due to the Nepal earthquake in April 2015 this border is still closed due to reconstruction. Overland travel between Tibet and Nepal is not possible. An alternative border crossing at Kyirong is expected to open in the summer of 2016.

Zhangmu border crossing is in Zhangmu 樟木 town, known as Dram འགྲ་མ in Tibetan, on the Tibet side of the Tibet-Nepal border. The town sits high above the bridge that forms the border. It is more like a chaotic village strung along the narrow road that winds its way up the precipitous banks of the Tibet side of the river. Transport trucks constantly clog the road and it can be painstakingly slow to pass through the town to or from the border. It strikes you immediately as the kind of place no one would choose to live in, but a place that clearly offers job opportunities that those unfortunate enough to locate here are seeking. The narrow street is brimming with a mix of Tibetans, Chinese, and Nepalese. If you absolutely must overnight here, your best option is the Zhangmu Hotel with an okay breakfast and decent food at the restaurant across the street.

It is a few hundred meters from the lower part of town to the Zhangmu border crossing. As you can imagine, the border is formed by a river and the crossing is a bridge, affectionately named the “China Nepal Friendship Bridge.” Your driver can only take you so close, so you may have to roll your luggage a couple hundred meters to the immigration line. Before you jump in line, be sure to peer over the edge and take a picture of the bridge and the river.

Last pass before the steep descent to the Zhangmu border crossing

After going through security, you wait in line for passing through immigration. At any point in this process, a Nepalese person may approach you and ask if you need a ride in a vehicle on the other side. Negotiate if you like, but our recommendation would be to take him up on the offer. The starting price for one seat to Kathmandu (as of June 2014) was around 1,500 rupees (or 100 yuan). If you have a small group and want to rent a whole vehicle (all eight seats), the starting price will be around 9,000 rupees (or 600 yuan). As soon as you exit the China side immigration, your newly hired driver will carry your bags and walk you through the Nepal side customs. Ours even helped us fill out our visa forms and get through the visa line quickly. Overall, hiring the driver was money well spent. If you decide to take the public bus, be prepared for twice as many riders as seats and any amount of stops along the way. Our private driver made it to our destination near Kathmandu in two and a half hours, while we heard the bus takes four hours or longer.

March 14, 2016
Peiku Tso

Imagine you are a flea on the head of a king with a crown of peaks all around you. The stretch of road on the way to Peiku Tso is something like that. The king’s forehead is facing south with the crown jewel set upon the tallest point – Shisapangma – the 8,013 meter point that is the highest mountain completely within China. The plain that forms the valley between these majestic points is arid and cracked from the baking sun. Nearly 20 kilometers away you begin to see an almost fluorescent blue line on the horizon in the west. It wisps and worms in the heat waves. It is so blue, you think perhaps it is a mirage. It makes the clean deep blue sky look gray in comparison. The road takes you within a kilometer at its nearest point to the lake. The wind nearly blows your hat off as you approach the water and you see what seems to be the white crash of waves on the shoreline. But when you arrive, you are amazed to find there are no waves – in fact, hardly any ripples on the water. And the white strip you saw from a distance is actually a five meter wide strip of dried salt all along the shore. At eye level the lake seems pretty ordinary and you realize it had pulled some mirage-like tricks on you from a distance. The neon turquoise line you saw from a distance no longer appears as stark. But the setting of this jewel among these snowy gods and cotton ball clouds is priceless.

Lake Peiku Tso from a distance.

The 45 minute drive from the Friendship Highway to Peiku Tso is at least half the joy of this journey. Enjoy snapping pics from your vehicle at 80 km per hour. Make sure you have plenty of space on your memory card! You may also enjoy the view of Peiku Tso from the Shisapangma Basecamp. At around 5,800 meters, it is about a two hour drive from the ticket entrance of the road. From there you can enjoy a more comprehensive view of Peiku Tso’s beauty and shape.

March 14, 2016
Drepung Monastery

Historically, the most significant monastery in Tibetan Buddhism, Drepung Monastery(འབྲས་སྤུངས་དགོན་པ།) used to be the seat of political and religious power in Tibet (before the Potala Palace was built). This significance came in part due to its location just outside of Lhasa, and in part due to it being the primary seat of the Gelugpa sect. The Gelugpa sect practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, and it is also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”
Drepung was founded in 1416 by a monk by the name of Jamyang Chöje, who was a disciple of Tsongkhapa (a reformer and the founder of the Gelugpa sect). Jamyang Chöje was a very charismatic monk, and within one year of completing the monastery, Drepung already had over 2000 monks living there. At its peak, Drepung Monastery used to be home to over 15,000 monks and was one of the most prestigious Buddhist institutions in the land. Now, there is a meager 300 monks living in Drepung and its sheer size makes the place feel almost like a ghost town.

Today the monastery holds seven colleges – Gomang, Loseling, Deyang, Shagkor, Gyelwa, Tosamling, Dulwa, and Ngagpa – and each teach different aspects of Tibetan Buddhism.

Visiting Drepung Monastery

Approximately 8kms west of Central Lhasa, and placed high on a steep mountainside, travellers will find Drepung Monastery. The alleyways are walled and narrow, and feel labyrinthine. The main meeting hall is massive and it is said it can fit up to 7,000 monks at a time. It is the largest meeting hall I have ever seen in a monastery. Adjacent to it is the kitchen, which is also said to be the largest kitchen in Tibet. It is easy to believe as the pots they use for cooking look like small swimming pools … for elephants.

Surrounding the monastery one will see a great number of residences with white roofs. Due to it’s location on Mount Gephel, and the number of white roofs that were required to house 15,000 monks, Drepung garnered the name of “rice heap” monastery.

Everywhere you look in Drepung is an opportunity for a photo, so keep your finger on the trigger. Be aware though about taking photos inside the temple areas and meeting halls. Usually there is a 20 to 50 yuan charge for photography inside these rooms.

March 14, 2016
Samye Monastery

History of Samye Monastery

Two hours drive southeast of Lhasa sits Samye Monastery(བསམ་ཡས་དགོན་པ།) – the oldest Buddhist training institution in Tibet, established in the lifetime of Padmasambhava in the eight century. The temple monastery compound is enclosed by a circular brick wall. It is said that from above, the circular wall and its contents resemble a Mandala – a Hindu and Buddhist representation of the universe. Mandalas are typically balanced uniformly with circle, square and triangle shapes throughout. Legend has it that Samye was constructed as a joint partnership between humans and demons – humans worked on it through the day and demons worked through the night.

Visiting Samye

Travelers can purchase an entrance ticket and enjoy access to the temple. There are three main levels to the temple in the center. The main level is stylistically Tibetan; the second level has a Chinese influence; and the third level, Indian. Though Samye Monastery now belongs to the majority Gelugpa sect, it still leans heavily toward its Nyingma sect origins, which is Tantric in nature. All around the typical cast of idols, there are offerings of tsampa and butter in overtly phallic molds. There are four identical stupas, apart from their color, outside the four corners of the temple. If you enjoy photography, a decent photo can be got of the whole compound from a hill nearby.

There is a convenience store oddly placed within the temple grounds. Surprisingly, the store has many import foods and drinks that are difficult to find in other areas in China. If you’re thirsting for a vanilla Coke, you have come to the right place!

Transportation

Visiting Samye is a day trip from either Lhasa or nearby Tsedang. Some people prefer to head directly to Tsedang after arriving at Lhasa Gonggar Airport and begin their trip by visiting the cradle of Tibet’s civilization (including Samye). As with travel throughout all of Central Tibet, you must pre-arrange transportation through the travel company that arranged your Tibet Travel Permit (TTP).

March 14, 2016
Ganden Monastery

Located 50 km northeast of Lhasa, Ganden Monastery (དགའ་ལྡན་དགོན་པ།)is a relatively quick trip outside of Lhasa for visitors who wish to see the monastery, and enjoy the beautiful view of the valley below. Ganden Monastery is the biggest of the Gelugpa Monasteries, and was the first founded in the sect.

Tsongkhapa was the founder of the Gelugpa sect (also known as Geluk), and through his work, he is revered as a reformer of Tibetan Buddhism. With the support of the local authorities and the people, Tsongkhapa founded Ganden Monastery in the 15 century. In order to enlarge the influence of the Gelugpa sect, and to help Tibetan Buddhism with the chaotic and disordered situation, Tsongkhapa performed the first Monlam Prayer Festival in Lhasa. This festival gathered more than 10,000 local people, monks, and nuns to pray, and even today the Gelugpa sect still keeps the tradition of the Monlam Festival alive. Starting after the Tibetan New Year, the festival lasts for 15 days and many come together around the community to perform rituals, pronounce blessings, and of course, to pray.

Kedrub Je and Gyatsab Je were the most influential of Tsonkhapa’ students, and when Tsonkhapa passed away in 1411, the abbotship of the monastery passed to these two students. These students were also the next in line to hold the post that came to be known as the Ganden Tripa – a position earned through merit, and is the title given to the leader of the Gelugpa sect. Thus, the Ganden Tripa transmission system was established, and today over 100 scholars have held the position.

Currently there are a couple hundred monks living in the Ganden Monastery, and guests are welcome to watch and observe as monks debate, chant their prayers, and go about their daily life. Some visitors take a few minutes to meditate and pray themselves, although there is no expectation placed on guests to do so if they do not feel comfortable. As with any monastery, the primary expectation is that guests would be respectful in their observation, and that they would not be disruptive of those who are there to worship.

March 14, 2016
Kang Rinpoche (Mt. Kailash)

Mt. Kailash (Kang Rinpoche/གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ) in Western Tibet (TAR) is one of the most venerated religious sites in the world. Four separate religions consider the mountain holy, so it is no surprise that it is pilgrimaged by thousands each year. Conceivably, that number would most likely be greater if it weren’t so difficult to obtain permits to the area. Kailash is viewed by many in the Hindu-Buddhist worldview as the center of the world. Theories regarding its supernatural power abound, with some even claiming it is a pyramid that was built by aliens. Regardless of your personal belief, there are some very interesting facts about the mountain, many of which have only served to add to the various religious beliefs.
Kailash Trekkers at the foot of the mountain.

Mt. Kailash: The Holiest Mountain

Buddhism

Mt. Kailash is believed to be the abode of Demchok and Dorje Phagmo. Demchok is one of the Buddhist gods, and is also known as Samvara. Dorje Phagmo is the highest female reincarnation, and the third highest person ranking in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama.

No one has ever climbed Kailash, except the legendary Mila Repa (a sage), who apparently did battle with the forces of darkness on top of the mountain and won a victory for Tibetan Buddhism (see Bon below for the parallel).

Of note for Buddhists is the natural shape on the south face of the mountain. Also called, “the Swastika mountain”, the South face appears to have a natural swastika running from top to bottom and from side to side. This swastika is the result of a vertical cleft running down the center of the rock face, combined with a layer of horizontal strata that appears to complete the symbol. The swastika is used to depict spiritual strength in Buddhism, thus only elevating the significance of this holy mountain.

Hinduism

Hindus have come to believe that Kailash is the mountain spoken of in their epic tales: Mt. Meru – home of the gods. As such, Kailash is believed to be the residing place of Shiva, the god of destruction, and his consort Pirvati. For Hindus, making the difficult pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash and viewing the darshan (divine view) of Shiva’s dwelling place is said to attain release from the clutches of ignorance and delusion.

Jainism

Mount Kailash is known by the Jains of India as Astapada. It is believed that this mountain was the place where the first of their saints (tirthankara) – one by the name of Rishaba – entered Nirvana.

Bon (Ancient Tibetan Religion)

To the Bon-po believers, the mountain is called Tise, and is held as the seat of the sky goddess Sipaimen. It is also said to be here that the Buddhist sage Mila Repa (as previously mentioned), battled the Bon shaman Naro Bon-chung to displace Bon as the primary religion of Tibet. This battle of sorcery between the two religions is said to have taken place during the 12th century.

Kailash’s Natural Significance

However you choose to regard the religious significance of this peak, you cannot argue with its natural beauty, and geographical significance. Mt. Kailash has four faces perpendicular to each other, and each face aligns perfectly with the four cardinal directions. Four great rivers originate from this mountain and flow into the Indian subcontinent (Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra, and the Karnali which feeds into the Ganges), and this area is also key to the drainage system of the Tibetan plateau. Tibetan Buddhists call the mountain Kang Rimpoche, the ‘Precious One of Glacial Snow’, as the peak is snowcapped year-round.

Many travelers choose to trek around the base of Mt. Kailash and join the many pilgrims walking the kora around the mountain. The kora typically takes 3 days to complete (although it can be more) with Buddhists going clockwise, and Bon adherents counter-clockwise. Accommodation along the kora can be found in semi-permanent seasonal tents provided by local entrepreneurs making a living from both foreigners and local pilgrims alike. While hiking around the mountain is allowed, summiting the mountain is not. Permission has only been granted on a few occasions in history, none of which were successful in summiting. As could be expected, the sacredness of this mountain to the local Tibetan community means that there is significant resistance to climbers attempting to reach the summit. For the sake of peace, the Chinese Government maintains the mountain is off limits to climbers.

March 14, 2016
Sera Monastery

Sera Monastery (སེ་ར་དགོན་པ།) is one of the most beautiful monastery compounds you will see in Tibet, and one of Lhasa’s several great religious institutes. Built on the gentle slope of a mountain overlooking Lhasa, its white stone roads and walkways feel almost Mediterranean. The roads are lined with beautiful trees and the debating courtyard looks like a private garden for kings. It appears cleaner and better maintained than most of the other monasteries. As you walk into the main meeting hall, look to your left before you enter the door. On the wall is the Tibetan Buddhist Circle of Life. Make sure your tour guide explains to you all of the parts of the image, as it will help you better understand the Tibetan worldview. If you have time, also stop by the bookstore, which has all of the Buddhist scriptures in paperback form, including some volumes in English.
Entrance to the main meeting hall at Sera Monastery.

Sera Monk Debates

Don’t linger too long at the bookstore and miss the main attraction at Sera Monastery: the debates. Between 3 and 5 pm (Mon-Fri), young monks can be found scattered in groups of two to four all throughout the courtyard practicing their philosophy through debating one another. It is an interesting form of debate, as the speaker makes each of his points with his whole body. The thrust of his argument climaxing with raised voice and an enthusiastic clap of the hands downward toward his “opponent.” Some of them add their own flavor to the gesture, which makes things quite entertaining. Some of the monks can’t keep from laughing, and you won’t either!

About Sera Monastery

Sera Monastery is part of the Gelgupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe. Sakya Yeshe was a disciple of Tsongkhapa, a revered reformer of Tibetan Buddhism, and the founder of the Gelgupa sect.

The monastery sits in a northern suburb of Lhasa at the base of Pubuchok Mountain (or Tatipu Hill). The monastery is still said to include 28 acres, or 11 hectares, of land. At it’s prime, Sera Monastery held 5 separate colleges of instruction and 5000 monks, but the monastery today is significantly smaller in size. Unlike a lot of others, this monastery managed to escape complete destruction during the Cultural Revolution, primarily losing some of the buildings related to the smaller of its five colleges. As a result, Sera has undergone restorations, and guests today can still visit the three remaining functioning educational institutes.

Sera Me College

This college was founded with the monastery. It is known for teaching the fundamental precepts of Tibetan Buddhism.

Sera Ngagpa College

This is also one of the oldest structures at Sera Monastery. The college itself specializes in Tantric studies.

Sera Je College

Sera Je teaches itinerant monks from outside of the TAR, and is the largest of the three functioning educational institutes at the monastery.

March 14, 2016