Tag: Gateway City

Dartsendo (Kangding)

Dartsendo (དར་རྩེ་མདོ། ) or Dardo (དར་མདོ། ) is a major gateway city on the eastern side of the Tibetan Plateau. Also known as Kangding (康定) in Chinese, it rises 2,600 meters above sea level and is the first Tibetan city you come to when traveling west from Chengdu. Kangding teeters on the Eastern edge of Tibet and, historically, has been a trading post between Tibetan and Han Chinese cultures. Bricks of tea came by horse over the mountains from Ya’an – the center of westward tea distribution in ancient China – while Tibetans bartered their nomad wares and yak milk products with the Chinese tea merchants.
Kangding is also the seat of political power for the majority of Kham Tibet. It is the county seat and prefectural capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan known as Garnze (甘孜 “Ganzi” in Chinese). Unlike most other towns further west and higher on the Tibetan plateau, Kangding is a turbid mixture of Tibetan and Han cultures with an approximately 50/50 split population of 100,000 people, with a small population of other ethinic minorities.

Fed by nearby Gongga Mt and Zheduo Mt, the river cuts Kangding in half and fills the streets with a constant roar

A small, but rapidly moving river divides the narrow valley city into Northwest and Southeast halves. The noise from the rushing waters echoes throughout the city streets. Summertime is accompanied by higher volumes of rainwater and thus higher volumes of river noise. Wind rips through the valley bringing with it a significant wind chill. Thus, even many Tibetans consider Kangding a colder place to spend the winter months than in their high plateau hometowns. Towering over the Southeast part of the town is the famous Paoma (“Running Horse”) Mountain. Residents and visitors regularly climb to the top of the hill for a view of the city, or for festivals or cultural events that the city hosts.

While in Kangding there are several places that travelers may wish to explore. With multiple monasteries, the Nanwu Monastery to the west side of town is the most active in the area, but the Ngachu Monastery might be one you wish to visit as it is conveniently located in town and has less traffic. The Lhamo Tse Monastery is about 2 kms from downtown, and Dentok Monastery lies at the top of Mt. Paoma, with travelers either taking the cable car or hiking to the top. Those wandering People’s Square in the morning are likely to find Tai Chi, but at night the square is filled with Tibetan or Western-style dancing. Most travelers enjoy joining in on the community fun.

There are plenty of options for day hikes around Kangding. A good source for information on nearby activities is Zhilam Hostel which is located on the west side of the valley on the hillside above Kangding Hotel. Outside of Kangding there is plenty to do as well. For active travellers there is the option of arranging a trek in the incomparable alpine wonderland of Mt. Gongga (Minya Konka in Tibetan) south of the city. The area around Gongga Mountain can accommodate any length of trek from one day to multi-day, and even extended backcountry treks for up to two weeks or more. For those who prefer a less active adventure, 40min by car west of the city sits a gorgeous alpine lake known locally as Mugecuo. Though the lake area has become commercialized with tourism in recent years, it still remains a good option for a scenic day trip.

Camping within one day’s trek of Kangding, near Gongga Mt. (Minya Konka)

Mugecuo is a local alpine lake about 40min drive from Kangding

There are multiple transportation options in and out of Kangding. The bus station sits at the northeast entrance to town just before the road drops toward Chengdu. There are multiple daily departures from Kangding to Chengdu and most major travel nodes in Eastern Tibet (Litang, Ganzi, Dege, etc.). Private vehicles are also for hire around the bus station. Travelers are now also able to fly into and out of Kangding via the recently built airport on the plateau, a 45min drive from the city. Leaving Kangding it is a 30km drive of nonstop climbing to the top of Zheduo Pass to reach the third highest airport in the world at 4,280m. On a clear day the airport has breathtaking views of the nearby Gongga and Yala mountain ranges.

Zheduo pass (4200m) between Kangding and the airport

June 20, 2016
Chengdu

Chengdu is the main gateway city to Tibet, meaning that most travelers will spend some time here before heading onwards in their journey. Located in Sichuan province, this city is also the biggest and most important city in Southwest China. With a population of 14 million in the greater Chengdu area, this is a large city, but it is known throughout China as a city that still maintains a small town pace of life.
While in Chengdu there are several things you may want to see, with a lot of travelers finding time in their schedule to visit the famous Giant Panda Breeding Research Base which holds the largest panda population in the world. Located only 12km northeast of the city, go early in the morning to see the pandas when they are most active.

Sichuan province is known even in China as an eating out culture and Chengdu is no exception.

The province of Sichuan is known for two culinary related characteristics: eating out is always best, and spicy food is a must! So, if you dare, trying Sichuan hotpot is a must while you are in the province. If possible, you may wish to order the pot that’s split in half so that you have both spicy and not-spicy options to alternate between as you desire. However, while in Sichuan watch out for the tongue numbing spices, and consider yourself forewarned. Whether you call it a “Sichuan pepper”, “Chinese prickly ash”, or “huajiao”, this peppercorn is not one you want to mess with, so watch your chopsticks – this is what makes hotpot, hotpot!

Jinli St. Performance Artists, Chengdu

South of the river is the Wuhou Temple which is the most popular temple to visit. While the entrance fee to the temple itself is reasonable, some guests skip the cost of entrance and wander the souvenir and food stalls, or the tranquil gardens surrounding the temple. The main entrance to Wuhou Temple is located on next to Jinli Street, which is also a popular walk into the historical architecture of China.

Chengdu is famous for tea culture

Like a lot of places in China, Chengdu is known for their tea drinking, and tea houses abound around the city. There are several tea houses which can be found in the streets around Wuhou Temple and Jinli Street, and also a large traditional tea garden at People’s Park (in the heart of the city). If you’ve never been to a Chinese Tea Ceremony, this might be the time to experience one. South of Chengdu sits the heart of tea in SW China: Mengding Mt. It is possible to arrange a day trip to this quiet area and tour a tea planation, pick your own tea leaves, and even prepare the leaves over the fire to take home as your very own souvenir. While there, you can also enjoy lunch on the grounds with the farmers.

A visit to Chengdu includes the unique option of making your own tea! (At Mengding Mt. south of Chengdu)

As for the Tibetan aspects of this city, there are several things you will not want to miss. Branching off of Jinli Street, and almost directly opposite the entrance to the Wuhou Temple, look for the Tibetan Quarter. You will know when you arrive, but some maps of Chengdu mark one particular street as the Tibetan Art and Culture Street. Here you will find Tibetan restaurants, clothing stores, craft shops, and idol shops.

Tourists may also choose to wander the grounds of Southwest University for Nationalities, but to do so will require you to walk through a gate past guards. In reality, they won’t stop you, so continue in to see the university with the most Tibetan students in the city. It is no coincidence that this university has historically included a Tibetan studies program and that the Tibetan quarter has grown up around the surrounding neighborhood.

Hungry? When passing so many Tibetan restaurants, it would be a shame to not try something. It is worth stopping in this part of the city for a meal. Look for dishes such as Tibetan Noodles (almost a stew), yak meat pie, or momos (the Tibetan version of dumplings). And don’t forget, authentic yak butter tea will be available in these local restaurants as well. As a more tame alternative, you may prefer to try the “Lhasa sweet tea”.

Even if you don’t know what a sign says, it is easy to spot a Tibetan business by their beautiful script. Tibetan is written completely different from Chinese characters. Several of the business will be adorned in prayer flags, and it is not uncommon to see Tibetan’s in their traditional dress, or Buddhist monks and nuns on the streets. As with a lot of cities, Chengdu is a melting pot, meaning that the Tibetan population of the city is made up of people from all different sub-cultures and dialects as the city itself is not actually a part of Tibet.

June 20, 2016
Shigatse (Rikaze)

Also known as Rikaze (日喀则), Shigatse (གཞིས་ཀ་རྩེ་ས་) is the second largest city in Central Tibet. It is a prefectural capital city with a population of over 700,000, and is most famously known for Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery is home to the Panchen Lama, the second highest lama in the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, and best survived the excesses of China’s cultural revolution. It still functions as an active monastic community today. Shigatse is easily accessed by road, rail or air from Lhasa, the provincial capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Tourists typically stop through on their way to Everest Base Camp and Nepal, therefore it is known as the “Gateway to Everest.”
The fastest and most direct way to Shigatse from Lhasa by vehicle is the newer Friendship Hwy (also known as the northern Friendship Hwy) that links Tibet with Nepal. This is a 270km trip that takes 5 hours due to strict speed control. It follows the Yarlung Tsampo river valley for most of the route where the farming lifestyle on the Tibetan plateau can be seen along the way. There is also a popular scenic route along the “old” Friendship Hwy that takes you over the Khamba La pass for a sweeping view of Yamdrok Lake, past the Karola Glacier, and through Gyantse – home of the largest stupa in Tibet. Most travelers will request to take the scenic route on one of the directions when traveling to and from Shigatse. A three hour train ride is an option as well.

Entrance to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.

While in Shigatse, a tour of Tashilhunpo Monastery is essential. For those interested in visiting the various chapels and halls within the monastery grounds it is best to go in the morning before they get locked up for lunch soon after 12:00pm. Photographers be aware that photography fees are collected in each chapel and can be as expensive as RMB 150 per chapel! Travelers can opt to join both the locals and pilgrims from afar to do the lingkhor (“holy path”) around the monastery. There are essentially two routes that can be taken. First, is the path around the immediate monastery grounds that can take up to one hour depending on your pace. There is also a longer route that takes you over to the Shigatze Dzong (fort), destroyed in the 1960s but rebuilt in 2007, which can take up to three hours. The fortress perches over the town and resembles the Potala Palace. Walking the lingkhor, or Kora, is a great way to mix with the locals, get some wonderful photos, and further acclimatize spending a day at 3,800 meters above sea level.

As most cities in China are growing rapidly in modernization, this town is no exception, meaning there are several good hotel options available. The Gesar Hotel, though not as convenient to the city center, has beautiful Tibetan themed rooms, a decent breakfast, and several good restaurants nearby. The Manasarova Hotel is in the city center, also Tibetan themed, but older and getting a little run down.

April 7, 2016