Tibetpedia

Tag: Lhasa

  • Inspiration from a Tibetan Mother

    Inspiration from a Tibetan Mother

    Namdon is the owner of the beautiful Tibet Family Kitchen in Lhasa. More than a restaurant offering mouth-watering Tibetan food, the cooking classes offered here are a cultural experience every traveler must include on their trip to this ancient city. Though her one room kitchen operation has grown into a two-story restaurant with a roof-top patio near the old town, her friendliness and hospitality still ensures every guest experiences the warmth of a “family kitchen”. Extravagant Yak is proud to know her and feature her business on Tibetpedia.com. This is her story.

    Outside Tibet Family Kitchen, Lhasa
    Tibetan Family Kitchen in Lhasa

    My name is Namdon. I was born in Shigatse, a small village of Renbu County, central Tibet. I had a hard childhood compared to many other kids in my village because both of my parents worked away from our hometown. As a child, I spent most my time with my grandma. I looked after our family’s cows in the morning and went to school in the afternoon.  My family’s economic condition didn’t allow me to continue my education journey after primary school. Later on, I moved to Lhasa and stayed with my cousin who helped me with my studies and sent me to a private language school. I picked up English and with this skill, became a guide at my cousin’s travel agency until 2013. I loved the guiding job and it was also during that time I met my husband Lumbum. We married in 2009 and our first daughter was born in 2011. Our parents helped us look after her while we continued guiding, but it was hard for me to be away from her so, I decided to give up my job and take care of her myself. I enjoyed being a full-time mother, but it was challenging for our family to rely solely on my husband’s income. 

    640_1.jpg
    Namdon and Her Lovely Daughters

    With my cousin’s brainstorming and encouragement, I opened a small restaurant on the floor above her office to provide staff meals for her employees. I loved this business as I am passionate about cooking. This is how the “Tibetan Family Kitchen” was born. At the beginning, I cooked, and my husband delivered the food. I love how our family worked as a team. We worked to make income, yet most importantly our family did not need to be apart anymore.  After some time went by, travel agencies added our cooking classes to their activities and they became popular on Trip Advisor. I was honored to receive many international friends at my restaurant and share Tibetan food with them.  In 2015, we had one more new family member, our younger daughter Tenzin Wangmu was born. She has grown up at our restaurant and when she was small, often my guests helped me feed her when she cried. One of my guests wrote some humorous feedback, “the food is amazing, but you need to prepare to be a nanny!” 

    640_2.jpg
    Cooking Class at Tibetan Family Kitchen

    I enjoy introducing Tibetan food to international friends in Lhasa. A special time each afternoon is after 4:30pm when I take my guests to the Lhasa Old Market to purchase food and show them local people’s daily life. After school, my kids spend most of their time at my restaurant doing their homework and sometimes helping me order food or clean the restaurant. I am so lucky and blessed to be with them. Every international children’s day we close the restaurant and celebrate with them. We take them to visit monasteries and go hiking. When it’s low season for our business, we take family trips to different places in Tibet. I want my kids to grow up with happiness, health and peace. I love being a mom and I love my work. Having my family a part of my job each day is a gift. The best love I can give my children is to be with them as they grow up. 

    640_3.jpg
    Namdon and Her Family

    The COVID 19 virus has affected my business and unfortunately also so many others in the world. I hope the virus will be gone soon and people can get back to their normal life. I also hope people treasure their loved ones and maintain health and peace at this difficult time. 

    Being a mother helped me understand and love my mother more and be more compassionate towards others. I hope I can be a role model for my daughters. Enjoy the amazing journey of being a mother. On this Mother’s Day, I wish all mothers the best! Happy Mother’s Day!

  • Tibet Travel Permit

    Tibet Travel Permit

    1. What is a Tibet Travel Permit?

     

    Firstly, a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) is NOT a visa or any other kind of stamp that goes in your passport. It is a completely separate document that is issued by the Tibet Tourism Bureau. It has two pages: the first page is the “permit” page and lists the name of the registered travel agency that is responsible for the organized tour as well as the dates and planned itinerary (place names within the TAR); the second page lists the names, passport numbers, nationality, age, and profession of each group member.

     

    Without a Tibet Travel Permit, you cannot enter Tibet. You will not even be permitted to board a flight or a train to Lhasa. Foreign travelers must have the original permit in their possession; a copy is not permitted. Furthermore, it is highly likely that the smallest mistake on the permit will result in being prohibited to board your flight/train or to enter Tibet. This document and it’s accuracy are very important.

     

    2. Who needs a Tibet Travel Permit?

     
    With the exception of Hong Kong and Macau citizens, all foreigner travelers are required to process a TTP to enter Tibet. Diplomats, journalists, and certain professional media photographers are not permitted to enter on a TTP and must apply through the diplomatic channels of their respective countries, or media company they represent.
     

    3. How do I process a Tibet Travel Permit?

     

    The first step to processing a TTP is to obtain a Chinese tourist visa. You cannot process a TTP on your own. A registered travel agency in Tibet must be hired to process your Tibet Travel Permit for you. Why? The law in Tibet (TAR only) requires foreigners to book a tour with a registered Tibet travel agency and to have a guide accompany them for the duration of their time in Tibet. After you purchase a tour package or agree on an itinerary with your chosen Tibet travel agency, they need two items from you to process your TTP: 1. a scanned copy of your passport and, 2. a scanned copy of your Chinese visa.

     

    Be aware that travel agencies in Tibet are prohibited by law from mailing the completed permit overseas, and do so at risk of losing their license. They are only permitted to mail the permit to a domestic address in China. Therefore Tibet travel agencies work with partner agencies in other Chinese cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, etc. to deliver the permit to travelers at their hotels before boarding their flight/train to Lhasa.

     

    Chinese embassies and consulates cannot process Tibet Travel Permits*.  Unbelievably, they have no authority to do so. Only the Tibet Tourism Bureau has the authority to issue a TTP, and the application must be made on your behalf by a registered travel agency.

     

    *ENTERING TIBET FROM KATHMANDU. The one exception to this is for travelers who are entering Tibet from Kathmandu, Nepal. In this case a GROUP VISA needs to be applied for through the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu. For such visitors entering from Kathmandu, the group visa consists of one piece of paper that lists all travelers’ names. The group must both enter and exit the TAR together and the visit is limited to 15 days. Extensions are generally not permitted.

    Chinese visas issued from other places are not valid for travel to China from Kathmandu.
     

    4. How much does a Tibet Travel Permit cost?

     
    The Tibet Tourism Bureau does not charge anything to issue the permit. Any cost associated with processing the TTP is charged by the travel agency that you hire, and is usually just included in your tour price. Such charges are understandable due to the time and hassle required by the agency to send staff in person to both submit the application and return to pick it up. Online submissions are not possible.
     

    5. How long does it take to process a Tibet Travel Permit?

     
    Processing a TTP can take up to two weeks. In theory, it can be completed as quickly as 3-4 days but often takes longer. This means that travel to TAR must be planned in advance by booking a tour with a registered travel agency ahead of time so they can obtain your TTP for you. Then they must get the original permit (not a copy) to you before you board your flight or train to Tibet.
     

    6. From which cities can I enter Tibet with my Tibet Travel Permit?

     

    Foreigners can enter Tibet with their TTP from any city within mainland China that offers a flight and/or train. This includes cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Xian, Xining, Kunming, etc. There are increasing numbers of cities that offer flights to Lhasa, including small county level airports in places like Kangding, Labrang (Xiahe), and Shangri-la.

     

    *The ONLY international flight that operates to Tibet is from Kathmandu. All other flights originate from mainland China.

     

    7. When is a Tibet Travel Permit checked while traveling in Tibet?

     
    Foreign travelers are checked for their TTP at the following times and places:
    • the departure city for Lhasa, Tibet
      • train stations
      • airports
    • the entrance port on arrival in Tibet: Zhangmu, Lhasa, Tuotuohe River (when traveling overland from Xining)
    • each hotel/guesthouse visited in Tibet
    • major Tibet attraction sites (Potala Palace, Everest, etc.)
     

    *Once you arrive in Tibet your guide will assume responsibility for your TTP and use it for checking you into your hotel, purchasing tickets to tourist attractions, and processing the permit when traveling outside of Lhasa.


     

    Remember, a Tibet Travel Permit is only required if you plan to visit the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) where Lhasa and other iconic sites such as Yamdrok Lake and Everest are found. If you are interested in having the most culturally authentic experience possible in Tibet, this will be found in the Kham and Amdo areas outside of the TAR where there are far less tourists. For travel in Kham and Amdo Tibet, nothing more is required than a Chinese visa.

     

  • Tibetan Family Kitchen

    Tibetan Family Kitchen

    Tibetan Family Kitchen is becoming a landmark in Lhasa for good reason. It was founded by a young and enthusiastic Tibetan couple in 2013. Namdon and Lumbum were tour guides for many years, but unfortunately in 2012 there were far too few tour groups to make a living. With the help and encouragement of Namdom’s sister, they decided to open a home-style restaurant, as both of them are great at making local Tibetan food and have experience in working with foreign guests. Seven years later they have progressed well beyond this small beginning.

    Tibetan cooking classes
    Tibetan cooking classes offered at Tibetan Family Kitchen.

    More than a restaurant offering mouth-watering Tibetan food, the cooking classes offered here are a cultural experience every traveler must include on their trip to this ancient city. Though the one room kitchen operation they started in back in 2013 has grown into a two-story restaurant with a roof-top patio near the old town, the friendliness and hospitality of the staff still ensures every guest experiences the warmth and welcome of a “family kitchen”. They also offer cooking classes if you are interested in the local food culture and learning how to make some of the dishes yourself.

    Delicious spread of Tibetan food
    Guests enjoying themselves at the Tibetan Family Kitchen

    The unique entrance to the Tibetan Kitchen takes you straight past the open concept kitchen, before passing through to the dining area. As most kitchens are hidden in the back of restaurants, its almost as if Namdon is intentionally showing off one the cleanest kitchens in the whole city of Lhasa, and offering travelers peace of mind before they even order their food. If the weather is agreeable we highly recommend requesting a table on the roof-top which offers a special panorama view of the the city.

    Rooftop dining in Lhasa Tibet
    Rooftop dining offers panoramic views of Lhasa Tibet

    Namdon and her husband Lumbum have years of guiding experience between the two of them, having taken foreign guests to Everest and beyond for many years. They have excellent English and are a great source of travel information both in Lhasa and all areas throughout Tibet. They are eager to please and only hope in return that foreign guests will have an enjoyable and memorable experience of Tibet.

    The entrance to Tibetan Family Kitchen
    The entrance to Tibetan Family Kitchen

    Finding the entrance to the Tibetan Family Kitchen requires some careful searching. Use the address below and keep an eye out for the sign on top of the building, as well as the one on the street level. It is located on the second floor off of Dan Jie Lin Road leading to the Barkhor area. The entranceway is a small passageway up some stairs between local shops. It is well worth searching for!

    Contact Info:

    Address: 西藏拉萨市丹杰林路 6-2-5

    Phone: 13889015053

    Address: Dan Jie Lin Road 6-2-5

    Phone:  13889015053

  • Sonam International Youth Hostel

    Sonam International Youth Hostel

    Sonam International Youth Hostel was founded by a capable Tibetan lady, Nizhen, in 2008.  As a result of the train to Lhasa opening in 2006, the tourism in the area developed greatly. As Nizhen had a few years of experience in running a hostel in mainland, China, she decided to open a Tibetan style hostel in Lhasa. The hostel was one of the first three in Lhasa. The name “Sonam” means “eternal blessing” in Tibetan. Nizhen came up with the name because she hopes people will be blessed by practicing kindness and compassion whilst they visit.

    The hostel has been doing really well, and in 2013 it was chosen, as “the trusted hostel” from among 300 hotels by the local tourism bureau. There are 12 employees at the Sonam, and they are very kind and helpful to their guests.

    Sonam Hostel Entrance
    Entrance to Sonam Hostel

    The hostel is a real home away from home for weary travelers. Entering off the busy main street through a small alley, you pass through a gateway into a traditional courtyard that blocks out the sounds of the city. The courtyard is an oasis of green life with grass, trees and a wooden deck that gives everything a slight cottage feel. There are a couple picnic tables to sit at while enjoying a cold drink, complete with umbrellas to shield from the sun during the middle of the day.

    Sonam courtyard
    The Sonam Hostel has a wonderful courtyard for guests to enjoy.

    The courtyard is surrounded by guest rooms and the café. The café sits on the first floor and offers decent western-friendly food and drinks. The breakfast at Sonum is particularly worthy of a mention. The décor of the café will be appreciated by those who like the slightly traditional and rustic feel that wood brings.

    Sonam offers both dorm style rooms with shared bathing facilities, and private rooms with ensuite baths. All rooms are exceptionally clean and the staff reflects the warmth of Tibetan hospitality. There are washing machines available as well for travelers who have reached that point in their travels!

    Sonam Hostel Single Bed
    A single bed at Sonam

    Sonam hostel is located away from the madness of Lhasa’s tourist core, but close enough to walk to the Potala Palace within 15 minutes. Also, within a few minute walk of the hostel you can reach the quiet banks of the Kyichu River for a walk through the manicured gardens along its banks. It is approximately a five to seven minute taxi ride to the Barkhor area.

    If you have a chance to visit Lhasa, you will find your Tibetan home if you stay at Sonam Hostel.

     

    Contact info:

    地址:西藏拉萨市德吉南路11号

    电话: +86 (0) 891-6927969

    Address: 11 South De Ji Road, Lhasa, Tibet

    Phone: +86 (0) 891-6927969

  • Metok Karpo Restaurant

    Metok Karpo Restaurant

    Metok Karpo is a gem of a restaurant located near Barkor in central Lhasa. Though it is hidden away in a narrow alley beside the Snowlands restaurant, it is well worth the effort to track it down. The low doorway is on your right hand side if you are walking from the main street, and it is usually full of mostly local clientele due to the appeal of the authentic flavors of the nomadic cooks! Your presence will attract some friendly smiles so be sure to smile in return!

    Metok Karpo Entrance
    The entrance to Metok Karpo Restaurant.

    The restaurant was founded by young Tibetan nomadic lady Thupten Choemo in 2008.  She is a single mother with a daughter. While sending kids to school in Lhasa is free, there are some expenses for her daughter because they are from nomadic area. Choemo wants her daughter to get a good education.  She has never run a business before in her life, but she is very interested in making Tibetan food. Her religion teaches her that everything one does should be done with one’s best effort, and so this spills over into not just her life, but her food as well. Therefore, Choemo believes that to make good food, you must put your heart and soul into every aspect of the preparation.

    Once you step inside you encounter a very funky atmosphere reminiscent of a Spanish grotto. The small interior immediately gives it a family kitchen feel complimented by the warm smiles of Choemo. An English menu is offered for the convenience of foreign travelers, and everything on the menu is always fresh. As the hosts do not speak English (or Chinese for that matter), simply point at the menu items that appeal to your appetite!

    Metok Karpo Interior
    Inside the Metok Karpo Restaurant

    The menu is not extensive, but is diverse and represents the favorites of the local population. The Lhasa sweet tea brings welcome refreshment after a morning of visiting the sites around Lhasa. Cold beer is also on hand if that is your preferred refreshment. If you enjoy meat, the dishes with yak meat are extremely delicious, but for those who prefer vegetarian, the menu caters to this as well. For dessert there is usually fresh yoghurt available, and it often fits as a perfect way to finish your meal.

    In the future, Choemo wants to expand her restaurant, and we wish her all the best as she makes her dream come true. If you find yourself traveling in Lhasa, we recommend you pay a visit to the lovely nomadic lady Choemo for a hearty meal.

    Contact Info:

    地址:丹杰林路 6-1-14.

    电话: 08916326933

    Address: Danjieling road No 6-1-14 (Five minutes walking distance to Jokhang temple in Barkor)

    Phone: 08916326933

  • Po Ba Tsang Restaurant

    Po Ba Tsang Restaurant

    Located in Lhasa, the Po Ba Tsang Restaurant is serving guests more than just food, and they are proving that being at the roof of the world is a rewarding, yet challenging task. Guests to Lhasa are continually amazed by the local historical and cultural sites, and they are often touched by the local peoples’ devotion to their religion, and hospitality for their visitors.

    Unfortunately though, due to political issues, homestays are not allowed to operate in Lhasa, but if they were, travelers would undoubtedly enjoy this option. Instead, those looking for a fabulous experience of Tibetan traditional food, performance, and hospitality should stop by Po Ba Tsang Restaurant in order to experience the spirit of local Tibet. A cozy and welcoming restaurant, Po Ba Tsang was a deliberately chosen name, as “Po Ba” means Tibetan, and “Tsang” means home & family. Travelers are always welcome to visit Po Ba Tsang if they have a chance to visit the holy city of Lhasa.

    Po Ba Tsang Performers.
    Performers at Po Ba Tsang Restaurant.

    The restaurant was founded in 2009 by a young, talented, and well-educated local Tibetan man named Chemey. Chemey used to work as an emcee, chef, and teacher, and even today he stills teaches, just not as much as he once did. Now he focuses on his restaurant business, and is very passionate about showing people traditional food, and classical song and dance performances. Po Ba Tsang has around 30 employees, with this including his artists and performers.

    Every night the restaurant performs time-honored songs and dances with traditional dress and instruments. The soft and peaceful music will bring you back to a time in history when there was no hustle and bustle of today’s modern day city to be heard.  Rather, the listener can easily imagine themselves in the midst of a grassland surrounded by nomadic herders, and many come to wonder if the Tibetan love of singing comes from living so close to the roof of the world. With the performers voices seemingly as high as Mt. Everest, and as pure as the land they spring from, dinners in the evening linger just a little longer than they should.

    Tibetan Hotpot
    Traditional Tibetan Hotpot is served at Po Ba Tsang Restaurant

    Patrons of Po Ba Tsang don’t only come for the song and dance, but because the restaurant specializes in Tibetan Hotpot. With dinner and a show, guests often sample the flavors of locally made Tibetan beer and wine.

    In the past fear years, Chemey has faced challenges, but he has also gained valuable experience about the restaurant business.  He has trained many staff, and he hopes that Po Ba Tsang continues to show and preserve the local performing arts, all while providing healthy, delicious, and authentic local food to his guests.

    Contact Info:

    地址: 北京东路错美林路口向丹杰林100米右手二楼(光明港琼甜茶馆对面)

    订做电话0891-6899000

    Address: Dan Jie lin Road (  Right In Front of Guangming Gangqiong Tian Cha House).

    Phone: 0891-6899000

  • Jokhang Temple

    Jokhang Temple

    Standing four stories tall, spread over an area of about 25,000 square meters in the heart of Lhasa, the UNESCO World Heritage Jokhang Temple (ཇོ་ཁང་།) with its golden roof is an esoteric blend of local Tibetan elements with Nepalese, Chinese, and Indian influences.

    The spinning of prayer wheels, murmur of mantras, and humble prostrations of devout pilgrims all year long but especially at Losar during the Great Prayer Festival show the significance of this revered spiritual center of Tibet.

    Destroyed twice during the anti-Buddhist movements in the late 7th century and middle of the 9th century, and once during the Chinese Cultural Revolution in the 1960s, the spectacular Jokhang Temple has been regularly expanded and extensively reconstructed over the years.

    The History Behind Jokhang Temple

    The impressive Jokhang Temple was initiated in 647 AD by the famous King Songtsen Gampo, the first King of Unified Tibet during the Tang Dynasty. In order to strengthen ties with neighboring Nepal, he married Princess Bhrikuti in 630AD, who was the Nepalese king’s sister. In her dowry, she brought the statue of Akshobhya Buddha (or Mikyoba). Later on in 641AD, he took Princess Wencheng as his second wife, who was related to Tang Chinese emperor. Princess Wencheng also brought the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha.

    In order to house the two statues of Akshobhya Buddha and Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha, two temples were built on Lake Wothang. The Ramoche Temple was built to hold the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni. After some time, the King also ordered the erection of the Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang, another temple to contain the statue of Akshobhya Buddha. After the death of the King in 649 AD, Queen Wencheng transferred the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni from the Ramoche temple and hid it away in the temple of Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang during the Chinese invasion. The Akshobhya Vajra statue then traded places with former and moved to the Ramoche temple. Later in 710 AD, the Rasa Trulnang Tsuglag Khang Temple was renamed Jokhang, which means ‘Shrine of the Jowo’.

    Originally the temple consisted of only eight shrines. But later on it was renovated and expanded during the Yuan Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty, and the Qing Dynasty to the massive monastery it is today.

    Outside a section of Jokang Temple
    From 8 shrines, Jokhang Temple has grown across many dynasties into the impressive temple it is today

    Legends Surrounding the Jokhang Temple

    There are various legends surrounding the establishment of the Jokhang Temple. One legend states that Queen Bhrikuti established the temple to contain the statue, while Queen Wencheng picked the location according to the astrological signs and geomancy divination. Lake Wothang was believed to be the center of demonic forces and only a grand temple on the spot would drive away the evils preventing the spread of Buddhism in Tibet.

    According to another legend, the King tossed his ring into the air for the spirits to indicate where he should construct the temple. Upon falling into a lake, a stupa surfaced from the water. The temple site at the lake was filled with sand carried by a thousand goats from a faraway mountain, thus giving it its first name, Rasa (‘ra’ is goat and ‘sa’ is earth in Tibetan).

    Architectural Highlights

    The outside of the temple is adorned with the early representations of Buddhism such as deer and wheel motifs, while the interior presents a maze of chapels devoted to different gods and bodhisattvas and a significant collection of cultural artifacts surrounded by candles and incense. The holiest object in Tibet, a life-size statue of Jowo Shakyamuni adorned with jewels, is the heart of the Jokhang Temple.

  • Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

    Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

    Also known as Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ། )in Tibetan, (珠穆朗玛峰 in Chinese), the mere mention of the name “Everest” already evokes enough pictures in our imaginations: ice axes, climbing ropes, avalanches, sherpas, basecamps and lots and lots of snow. The tallest point from sea level on planet earth (8,848m) is assisted to its dizzying heights by the craggy edge of the vaulted Tibetan plateau that it rests on. Since Sir Edmund Hilary’s successful summit in 1953, tens of thousands of climbers have attempted to add their names to the list. Some have given their lives trying. There are over 200 corpses on this mountain, and their remains are humbling reminders of the difficulty of the quest.

    Approaching the mountain.
    The approach to the mountain.

    Less known facts about Everest are that it sits on the China Nepal border-the north face on the China side (also known as the “Tibet side”) and the south face on the Nepal side. There are two approaches to climbing this mountain, known respectively as the “South Col Route” and the “North Col Route.” There are two “Everest Base Camps,” on each respective side of the mountain. In fact, there are more than that at different elevations on the climb to the summit. However, tourists without a climbing permit can only visit the lowest Base Camp on either side. Which camp you plan to visit depends on which country you are in: China or Nepal. There is no border crossing at Mt. Everest, although there used to be a border crossing at Dram (Zhangmu) about an eight-hour drive to the West (on the China Tibet side). However, since the Nepal earthquakes in 2015, that border has been closed and another in the Gyirong Valley (even farther west) has been opened in its stead.

    Everest Base Camp
    Windhorses (prayer flags) flap in the wind outside of the base camp.

    The mountain is named in English after Sir George Everest who was the Surveyor General of India in the early 1800s. The original Tibetan name of the mountain, Mount Qomolangma, means “Holy Mother.” The Chinese also refer to the mountain as 圣母峰 - Shengmufeng (“Holy Mother Peak”). One Chinese perspective is that the mountain should not be referred to as “Everest” as that name was prescribed by foreign English geological surveyors in the late 19th century, but should rather be referred to internationally as Qomolangma. The Chinese transliteration of Qomolangma, 珠穆朗玛峰, has been established since the early 18th century.

    Mt. Everest at night.
    Mt. Everest by night.

    As of early 2015, there is a paved road from New Tingri to Everest Basecamp on the China (Tibet) side. The North Face of Everest arguably offers the most stunning views of the mountain. Many consider the north side views of Everest as the best. The ease of access on the China side has attracted much more tourism, though numbers of tourists are still lower on average than the Nepal side. On the north side, Chinese tourists are the vast majoriy. On the south side, foreign tourists outnumber local Nepalese.

    Tent hotel at Everest
    Inside a tent hotel at Everest.

  • Drepung Monastery

    Drepung Monastery

    Historically, the most significant monastery in Tibetan Buddhism, Drepung Monastery(འབྲས་སྤུངས་དགོན་པ།) used to be the seat of political and religious power in Tibet (before the Potala Palace was built). This significance came in part due to its location just outside of Lhasa, and in part due to it being the primary seat of the Gelugpa sect. The Gelugpa sect practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, and it is also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”

    Drepung was founded in 1416 by a monk by the name of Jamyang Chöje, who was a disciple of Tsongkhapa (a reformer and the founder of the Gelugpa sect). Jamyang Chöje was a very charismatic monk, and within one year of completing the monastery, Drepung already had over 2000 monks living there. At its peak, Drepung Monastery used to be home to over 15,000 monks and was one of the most prestigious Buddhist institutions in the land. Now, there is a meager 300 monks living in Drepung and its sheer size makes the place feel almost like a ghost town.

    Today the monastery holds seven colleges – Gomang, Loseling, Deyang, Shagkor, Gyelwa, Tosamling, Dulwa, and Ngagpa – and each teach different aspects of Tibetan Buddhism.

    Visiting Drepung Monastery

    Approximately 8kms west of Central Lhasa, and placed high on a steep mountainside, travellers will find Drepung Monastery. The alleyways are walled and narrow, and feel labyrinthine. The main meeting hall is massive and it is said it can fit up to 7,000 monks at a time. It is the largest meeting hall I have ever seen in a monastery. Adjacent to it is the kitchen, which is also said to be the largest kitchen in Tibet. It is easy to believe as the pots they use for cooking look like small swimming pools … for elephants.

    drepung_monastery_kitchen

    Surrounding the monastery one will see a great number of residences with white roofs. Due to it’s location on Mount Gephel, and the number of white roofs that were required to house 15,000 monks, Drepung garnered the name of “rice heap” monastery.

    Everywhere you look in Drepung is an opportunity for a photo, so keep your finger on the trigger. Be aware though about taking photos inside the temple areas and meeting halls. Usually there is a 20 to 50 yuan charge for photography inside these rooms.

    drepung_monastery_kora

  • Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery (སེ་ར་དགོན་པ།) is one of the most beautiful monastery compounds you will see in Tibet, and one of Lhasa’s several great religious institutes. Built on the gentle slope of a mountain overlooking Lhasa, its white stone roads and walkways feel almost Mediterranean. The roads are lined with beautiful trees and the debating courtyard looks like a private garden for kings. It appears cleaner and better maintained than most of the other monasteries. As you walk into the main meeting hall, look to your left before you enter the door. On the wall is the Tibetan Buddhist Circle of Life. Make sure your tour guide explains to you all of the parts of the image, as it will help you better understand the Tibetan worldview. If you have time, also stop by the bookstore, which has all of the Buddhist scriptures in paperback form, including some volumes in English.

    Sera Monastery
    Entrance to the main meeting hall at Sera Monastery.

    Sera Monk Debates

    Don’t linger too long at the bookstore and miss the main attraction at Sera Monastery: the debates. Between 3 and 5 pm (Mon-Fri), young monks can be found scattered in groups of two to four all throughout the courtyard practicing their philosophy through debating one another. It is an interesting form of debate, as the speaker makes each of his points with his whole body. The thrust of his argument climaxing with raised voice and an enthusiastic clap of the hands downward toward his “opponent.” Some of them add their own flavor to the gesture, which makes things quite entertaining. Some of the monks can’t keep from laughing, and you won’t either!

    About Sera Monastery

    Sera Monastery is part of the Gelgupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe. Sakya Yeshe was a disciple of Tsongkhapa, a revered reformer of Tibetan Buddhism, and the founder of the Gelgupa sect.

    The monastery sits in a northern suburb of Lhasa at the base of Pubuchok Mountain (or Tatipu Hill). The monastery is still said to include 28 acres, or 11 hectares, of land. At it’s prime, Sera Monastery held 5 separate colleges of instruction and 5000 monks, but the monastery today is significantly smaller in size. Unlike a lot of others, this monastery managed to escape complete destruction during the Cultural Revolution, primarily losing some of the buildings related to the smaller of its five colleges. As a result, Sera has undergone restorations, and guests today can still visit the three remaining functioning educational institutes.

    Sera Me College

    This college was founded with the monastery. It is known for teaching the fundamental precepts of Tibetan Buddhism.

    Sera Ngagpa College

    This is also one of the oldest structures at Sera Monastery. The college itself specializes in Tantric studies.

    Sera Je College

    Sera Je teaches itinerant monks from outside of the TAR, and is the largest of the three functioning educational institutes at the monastery.