Tibetpedia

Tag: Sichuan

  • Pelyul County

    Pelyul County

    Pelyul County (or Pelyul- དཔལ་ཡུལ་རྫོང་།) is located in Kham Tibet and is one of eighteen counties of Ganzi Autonomous prefecture in Western Sichuan Province. In Tibetan, Pelyul means “a holy and happy place.” Pelyul is on the border with the Tibet Autonomous Region and is roughly 3,000 meters above sea level. There are over 50,000 people here with 94% being Tibetan and the rest are Han Chinese and other ethnic minorities.

    Getting to Pelyul

    Traveling to Pelyul from Chengdu is very doable with a little bit of patience. It’s roughly a 900km journey and takes around 18 hours by bus. A new highway from Ya’an to Luding is now open to private vehicles and will be available to public bus traffic in June of 2018. This cuts at least four hours off the journey, making the total ride possible in one day. This is still not recommended though, as it is always best to ascend elevation slowly with regular periods of acclimatization. We suggest spending at least a night or two in Kangding on the way up.

    Well Worth the Trip

    The landscape and scenery are so worth the trip: nomadic grassland, glaciated peaks, deep river valleys, stunning mountain lakes, diverse Tibetan architecture, and the unique culture. Pelyul is only 97 kilometers (a 2 hour drive) south of Dege. Dege is the center of culture, art and medicine in Kham area. It’s one of the best places to experience Tibetan religious culture and learn Kham Tibetan history.

    Sights to See around Pelyul

    You can easily spend two to three days in Pelyul visiting monasteries and nunneries. Pelyul and Katok Monasteries are one of the three biggest Nyingma-tradition monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism in the Kham Tibetan region. Pelyul monastery was founded in 1665 by Kuchen Sherab in Pelyul County. After Pedma Norbu Rinpoche’s death, Karma Kuchen Rinpoche became the monastery’s twelfth leader. The monastery is located in a hillside above the county town and is within walking distance. From the monastery you can get the whole view of the town.

    Katok Monastery was founded by Katok Dampa Deshek in 1159. It’s located on a hillside in a town called Horpo 51 kilometers away from Peyul county. It has a nearly 850 year history and the greatest scholars in Tibet have come out of Katok. Katok is a must-see if you want to dive deep into the history of the Nyingma sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

    Yarchen Monastery was founded by Achuk Rinpoche in 1985. It lies in an isolated valley 4000 meters above sea level. The monastery is associated with the Nyingma traditions of Tibetan Buddhism. It’s the largest concentration of nuns and monks in the world. Nuns drastically outnumber the monks, so much so that Yarchen is also known as “The City of Nuns.” The place is covered with thousands of small huts where nuns do their meditation. Yarchen is an amazing place to learn about Tibetan Buddhist nun’s lifestyle and religious customs. Yarchen is between Pelyul County and Ganzi County, roughly equidistant from both. Traveling from either Pelyul or Ganzi to Yarchen takes about three hours by private vehicle.

  • Dartsendo (Kangding)

    Dartsendo (Kangding)

    Dartsendo (དར་རྩེ་མདོ། ) or Dardo (དར་མདོ། ) is a major gateway city on the eastern side of the Tibetan Plateau. Also known as Kangding (康定) in Chinese, it rises 2,600 meters above sea level and is the first Tibetan city you come to when traveling west from Chengdu. Kangding teeters on the Eastern edge of Tibet and, historically, has been a trading post between Tibetan and Han Chinese cultures. Bricks of tea came by horse over the mountains from Ya’an – the center of westward tea distribution in ancient China – while Tibetans bartered their nomad wares and yak milk products with the Chinese tea merchants.

    Kangding is also the seat of political power for the majority of Kham Tibet.  It is the county seat and prefectural capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan known as Garnze (甘孜 “Ganzi” in Chinese). Unlike most other towns further west and higher on the Tibetan plateau, Kangding is a turbid mixture of Tibetan and Han cultures with an approximately 50/50 split population of 100,000 people, with a small population of other ethinic minorities.

     

    kangding_river_night
    Fed by nearby Gongga Mt and Zheduo Mt, the river cuts Kangding in half and fills the streets with a constant roar

    A small, but rapidly moving river divides the narrow valley city into Northwest and Southeast halves. The noise from the rushing waters echoes throughout the city streets. Summertime is accompanied by higher volumes of rainwater and thus higher volumes of river noise. Wind rips through the valley bringing with it a significant wind chill. Thus, even many Tibetans consider Kangding a colder place to spend the winter months than in their high plateau hometowns. Towering over the Southeast part of the town is the famous Paoma (“Running Horse”) Mountain. Residents and visitors regularly climb to the top of the hill for a view of the city, or for festivals or cultural events that the city hosts.

    While in Kangding there are several places that travelers may wish to explore. With multiple monasteries, the Nanwu Monastery to the west side of town is the most active in the area, but the Ngachu Monastery might be one you wish to visit as it is conveniently located in town and has less traffic. The Lhamo Tse Monastery is about 2 kms from downtown, and Dentok Monastery lies at the top of Mt. Paoma, with travelers either taking the cable car or hiking to the top. Those wandering People’s Square in the morning are likely to find Tai Chi, but at night the square is filled with Tibetan or Western-style dancing. Most travelers enjoy joining in on the community fun.

    There are plenty of options for day hikes around Kangding. A good source for information on nearby activities is Zhilam Hostel which is located on the west side of the valley on the hillside above Kangding Hotel. Outside of Kangding there is plenty to do as well. For active travellers there is the option of arranging a trek in the incomparable alpine wonderland of Mt. Gongga (Minya Konka in Tibetan) south of the city. The area around Gongga Mountain can accommodate any length of trek from one day to multi-day, and even extended backcountry treks for up to two weeks or more. For those who prefer a less active adventure, 40min by car west of the city sits a gorgeous alpine lake known locally as Mugecuo. Though the lake area has become commercialized with tourism in recent years, it still remains a good option for a scenic day trip.

     

    gongga_mt_trek
    Camping within one day’s trek of Kangding, near Gongga Mt. (Minya Konka)

     

    Mugecuo_near_kangding
    Mugecuo is a local alpine lake about 40min drive from Kangding

     

    There are multiple transportation options in and out of Kangding. The bus station sits at the northeast entrance to town just before the road drops toward Chengdu. There are multiple daily departures from Kangding to Chengdu and most major travel nodes in Eastern Tibet (Litang, Ganzi, Dege, etc.). Private vehicles are also for hire around the bus station. Travelers are now also able to fly into and out of Kangding via the recently built airport on the plateau, a 45min drive from the city. Leaving Kangding it is a 30km drive of nonstop climbing to the top of Zheduo Pass to reach the third highest airport in the world at 4,280m. On a clear day the airport has breathtaking views of the nearby Gongga and Yala mountain ranges.

     

    Zheduo_pass_kangding
    Zheduo pass (4200m) between Kangding and the airport

     

  • Chengdu

    Chengdu

    Chengdu is the main gateway city to Tibet, meaning that most travelers will spend some time here before heading onwards in their journey. Located in Sichuan province, this city is also the biggest and most important city in Southwest China.  With a population of 14 million in the greater Chengdu area, this is a large city, but it is known throughout China as a city that still maintains a small town pace of life.

    While in Chengdu there are several things you may want to see, with a lot of travelers finding time in their schedule to visit the famous Giant Panda Breeding Research Base which holds the largest panda population in the world. Located only 12km northeast of the city, go early in the morning to see the pandas when they are most active.

    Chengdu gateway city to Tibet
    Sichuan province is known even in China as an eating out culture and Chengdu is no exception.

     

    The province of Sichuan is known for two culinary related characteristics: eating out is always best, and spicy food is a must! So, if you dare, trying Sichuan hotpot is a must while you are in the province. If possible, you may wish to order the pot that’s split in half so that you have both spicy and not-spicy options to alternate between as you desire. However, while in Sichuan watch out for the tongue numbing spices, and consider yourself forewarned. Whether you call it a “Sichuan pepper”, “Chinese prickly ash”, or “huajiao”, this peppercorn is not one you want to mess with, so watch your chopsticks – this is what makes hotpot, hotpot!

    Jinli St. in Chengdu
    Jinli St. Performance Artists, Chengdu

     

    South of the river is the Wuhou Temple which is the most popular temple to visit. While the entrance fee to the temple itself is reasonable, some guests skip the cost of entrance and wander the souvenir and food stalls, or the tranquil gardens surrounding the temple. The main entrance to Wuhou Temple is located on next to Jinli Street, which is also a popular walk into the historical architecture of China.

    Chengdu_gateway_to_Tibet
    Chengdu is famous for tea culture

     

    Like a lot of places in China, Chengdu is known for their tea drinking, and tea houses abound around the city. There are several tea houses which can be found in the streets around Wuhou Temple and Jinli Street, and also a large traditional tea garden at People’s Park (in the heart of the city). If you’ve never been to a Chinese Tea Ceremony, this might be the time to experience one. South of Chengdu sits the heart of tea in SW China: Mengding Mt. It is possible to arrange a day trip to this quiet area and tour a tea planation, pick your own tea leaves, and even prepare the leaves over the fire to take home as your very own souvenir. While there, you can also enjoy lunch on the grounds with the farmers.

    Chengdu_gateway_to_tibet
    A visit to Chengdu includes the unique option of making your own tea! (At Mengding Mt. south of Chengdu)

     

    As for the Tibetan aspects of this city, there are several things you will not want to miss. Branching off of Jinli Street, and almost directly opposite the entrance to the Wuhou Temple, look for the Tibetan Quarter. You will know when you arrive, but some maps of Chengdu mark one particular street as the Tibetan Art and Culture Street. Here you will find Tibetan restaurants, clothing stores, craft shops, and idol shops.

    Tourists may also choose to wander the grounds of Southwest University for Nationalities, but to do so will require you to walk through a gate past guards. In reality, they won’t stop you, so continue in to see the university with the most Tibetan students in the city. It is no coincidence that this university has historically included a Tibetan studies program and that the Tibetan quarter has grown up around the surrounding neighborhood.

    Hungry? When passing so many Tibetan restaurants, it would be a shame to not try something. It is worth stopping in this part of the city for a meal. Look for dishes such as Tibetan Noodles (almost a stew), yak meat pie, or momos (the Tibetan version of dumplings). And don’t forget, authentic yak butter tea will be available in these local restaurants as well. As a more tame alternative, you may prefer to try the “Lhasa sweet tea”.

    Even if you don’t know what a sign says, it is easy to spot a Tibetan business by their beautiful script. Tibetan is written completely different from Chinese characters. Several of the business will be adorned in prayer flags, and it is not uncommon to see Tibetan’s in their traditional dress, or Buddhist monks and nuns on the streets. As with a lot of cities, Chengdu is a melting pot, meaning that the Tibetan population of the city is made up of people from all different sub-cultures and dialects as the city itself is not actually a part of Tibet.

  • Jiachu’s Homestay

    Jiachu’s Homestay

    In the shadow of the famous Konka Mountain, lies the Yulongxi Village. It is in this majestic setting that one can find Jiachu’s Homestay. The owner, Jiachu, has spent his entire life in the Kham Tibetan Region, making him a local expert.

    It all started one day when Jiachu was asked to drive to his hometown by a few Chinese tourists, so he invited them to stay with his family and provided them with a sample of the local food. This small opportunity stirred up Jiachu’s idea of opening a homestay for tourists. As Jiachu shared this idea with these tourists, they expressed their support for it, and later, in 2004 they began recommending their friends to his homestay. Jiachu has been running the homestay with his family for more than 10 years now. He was the first person to open a homestay in the whole valley.

    From one person to small amounts of travelers, Jiachu offers the accommodations of a Tibetan family.

    In the beginning Jiachu had just a few beds on his floor for tourists, but now there are 5 different rooms for guests to choose from. Jiachu has also since built a public shower room and nice toilet for his guests. Now, Jiachu is planning to expand his homestay by building guest rooms with their own private bathrooms.

    Relax room
    Get the feel for a Tibetan house, full of colorful walls and carpet.

    Jiachu is very passionate about showing his hometown to friends from all over the world. He welcomes people to stay with his family at his cozy and comfortable home, and he is happy to share local food with people, especially his favorite dishes. It is always nice being with local Tibetans to experience their authentic culture. He also provides trekking trips, and he supports his neighbors and friends by hiring them and their horses for the journeys.

    As more tourists visit his hometown, environmental protection has begun to get his attention. Jiachu has started working with a few organizations to educate local people about protecting the beautiful landscape that they call home. Jiachu has gained a lot of experience and benefits by running his homestay business, so he shared his experience with other people in the valley. Since starting his homestay, there are now 6 homestays in the valley as others have followed his lead.

    Whether you wish to trek Konka Mountain, or simply want to wake up to a stunning view, Jiachu’s Homestay could be the quiet resting place you are looking for.

    Contact Info:

    地址： 四川省甘孜州康定县贡嘎山乡玉龙西村。

    电话：13778391377.

    Address: Yulongxi Village, Gongga Township, Kangding County, Ganzi Prefecture, Sichuan Provine.

    Phone: 13778391377

  • Tenpa’s Homestay

    Tenpa’s Homestay

    In the quiet little Tibetan village of Duorang, travellers can find Tenpa’s Homestay. The namesake – Tenpa – is from the Kham Minya area. Tenpa studied English for few years, so he speaks fluent English, Chinese, and Tibetan. He has been working as a guide and driver in the Kham Tibetan region for more than 7 years, and his experience shows. Unlike others in the area, Tenpa and his wife do not have farmland, so their income comes not from farming, but curious travellers. Tenpa is a very outgoing, humorous, and positive person, meaning those who travel with him have a lot of fun.

    Tenpa’s village is on the way to the mountain of Minya Konka. A new road was built through his hometown two years ago, allowing more and more tourist to come to Tenpa’s hometown to visit the mountain.

    Tenpa's Homestay living quarters
    Come, stay and relax in the common area.

    Tenpa wants tourists to experience the culture and customs of Tibet. In 2015, Tenpa opened a homestay with his wife – Tenzin Zhuoga. Together, Tenpa and his wife run the homestay for their guests. There are about 20 beds in the homestay, all of which are very clean and comfortable.  There is also a big living room in the home. With a fireplace in the middle of the room, travellers can come and sit by a fire with Tenpa’s family and cozily sip some yak butter tea, a must have while anywhere in Tibet.

    Tenpa's 4
    Learn more about the Tibetan culture by chatting with the family.

    If you are planning a trip to Minya Konka, or find yourself wandering through the Kham Minya area, consider paying a visit to Tenpa and his family at their homestay.

    Contact Info:

    地址：康定县朋布西乡 朵让村

    电话：15983739877

    Address: Duorang Village, Pengbu Township, Kangding County, Ganzi Prefecture.

    Phone: 1598373 9877

     

  • Dolma La Restaurant

    Dolma La Restaurant

    Stepping inside the Dolma La Tibetan restaurant, one is immediately taken by the richly coloured wooden walls and furniture. I spied the stairs leading up to the second floor dining area and couldn’t resist climbing them to discover what lay above me. Upstairs the  natural light filters in through the wooden window frames to illuminate the Tibetan artwork which adorns the walls. While here, I sampled the Amdo Noodle with Yak Meat, and thoroughly enjoyed it to the last morsel.
    Dolma La Interior
    Inside, one can see the comfortable setting offered by the Tibetan restaurant

    The Dolma La was founded in 2015 and is run by two young and energetic Tibetan men who like taking risks and tackling challenges head on. Wongxur and Renqing both come from nomadic tribes in North East Tibet, so they decided to introduce the nomadic food to the big city.  They wanted to provide the people of Chengdu with healthy and organic Tibetan food at reasonable prices, so Dolma La was born.

    On the first floor you will find the bathroom, front desk, kitchen, and about half of the tables accompanied by quaint wooden chairs. However, if you climb the steep staircase to the second floor you will find the other half of the dining area is fit with couches perfect for a relaxing over a lazy meal. There are also two private rooms on the second floor if you happen to have a larger group.

    Dolma La
    Delicious Tibetan Food

    This is a cozy restaurant with a small, friendly set of staff. One of the staff in particular speaks fluent English, so the Dolma La has offered their space to be used every Tuesday night as an English corner. This gives the locals of Chengdu the opportunity to sit with ex-pats, and other English speakers who wish to volunteer their time, to practice their language skills, and no doubt, to exchange a little culture as well.

    If you are out exploring Chengdu in the evening, every night at around 10:00pm Dolma La has live performances of traditional Tibetan music. Guests often use this time as a chance to sample the flavors of Tibetan wine and beer as they enjoy music steeped in a deep cultural history.

    Contact Info:

    地址： 成都市高升桥东路北站罗马假日广场B2-305.

    电话： 028-85108297

    Address: Rome Holiday Square. Gaosheng Bridge, East Road. North Station. B2-305.

    Phone: 028-85108297

  • Zhongde Tan Cafe

    Zhongde Tan Cafe

    Zhongde is located in town of Ruoergai, Aba prefecture, of the Sichuan province. For the past year, two Tibetan university graduates have been running their unique coffee bookshop here – Zhongde.
    Yangtan and Pabazu are are full of passion, pride, and love for their culture. These brave grads decided to stand on their own feet instead of working for others. both went to a university, yet they dreamed of being entrepreneurs. They dreamed of introducing and preserving their culture and Tibetan heritage. Now, they are making their dreams a reality.
    Zhongde Tan Caffe 2 3
    Lecture taking place in the cafe. Come enjoy learning and educating yourself with the locals and fellow travellers.

    There are 4 employees in the coffee bookshop so far. The company is very unique in Ruoergai because it is the first coffee shop that provides books, Tibetan food, coffee, and opportunities to study and receive training, all in one spot.
    If you visit Zhongde, you can enjoy coffee, local milk tea, and books – a book lovers favorite thing! You also can join workshops and training to exchange ideas and share you own stories with others. Discussions in this bookstore range from cultural preservation to environmental protection. The hope for Zhongde is that people can learn different skills and ideas through their platform. They want more and more local people to join them, and to learn and share with one another. Isn’t that the fastest way for knowledge to spread?

    Zhongde Tan Caffe
    With such a relaxing setting, you will forget the outside world.

    They invite friends from all over the world to enjoy food and coffee with them. They will be happy to serve you, and encourage guests to come, to share, and to continue learning with them. They hope that they can be model entrepreneurs for local people and encourage young Tibetans to start their own small businesses too!

    Contact Info:

    地址：若尔盖文明市场.

    电话： 18894562777

    Address: Wenming Market, Ruoergai County Town.

    Phone: 18894562777

  • Malaya Tibetan Restaurant

    Malaya Tibetan Restaurant

    The Malaya Tibetan Restaurant was founded in 2006.  Located in the heart of the town of Kangding, it is the oldest and best Tibetan Restaurant in town. The restaurant is run by a young and knowledgeable Tibetan guy – Xirao – who is from Minyak, in the Kham region. Xirao received his education in China, and he speaks fluent Tibetan, Chinese, and English. He is passionate about Tibetan culture, especially culture that is shown through food.
    Malaya interior
    Inside the Malaya Tibetan Restaurant

    Inside Malaya, the decorations are very beautiful and unique. In order to give clients a healthy and comfortable environment, Xirao renovated the restaurant in 2014. There are 14 staff at the restaurant, all of whom are Tibetan. The Malaya restaurant has been providing job opportunities to young, local Tibetans, which has been accompanied by providing the necessary training to see their staff continue to grow. The staff welcome their diners with enthusiasm, and they are always happy to provide the best food and service to their customers.

    Inside the restaurant, there are 5 different private rooms, and a large dining hall which can hold more than 100 people. Such a large dining room allows them to offer the space for large parties and events. Malaya has a beautiful view which is complemented with the delicious food and Tibetan music. While visiting Malaya, try their Tibetan butter tea or local Tibetan wines. As a result of Malaya’s enjoyable food and their quality of the service, the restaurant was recognized in 2015 as the “most unique local restaurant” by the local tourist administration.
    Malaya

    Contact Info:

    地址： 康定水井电梯公寓6楼。

    电话：0836-2877111

    Address: Shui Jing Apartment 6 Floor, Kangding City Town, Ganzi Prefecture, Sichuan Province.

    Phone:  0836-2877111

  • Bollywood Restaurant

    Bollywood Restaurant

    Tucked away in the city of Chengdu, Sichuan, is the Bollywood Restaurant. Run by a local Tibetan named Wanjia, you will find this bustling eatery with a colorful flare serving up Indian rice bowls and nam bread. Yet don’t be fooled, as some of these dishes, while authentic to Indian flavor, can’t help but mix in a little Tibetan culture – can you say yak meat, anyone?

    Wangjia is from the Yushu area, in the Kham region, with his hometown being the lowest altitude place in all of Yushu.

    Wangjia received his education in China, and he speaks fluent Tibetan, Chinese, and English. He is a very outgoing, and knowledgeable Tibetan man. He realized there were some Indian restaurants in Chengdu, but most of them are far away from the Tibetan area of the city. With the Tibetan connection to Indian spiritually, he wanted one closer. The market research he undertook indicated that the Tibetan area of the city could support an Indian restaurant.

    Bollywood Resturant interior
    Various seating options allow any number of parties to come and try the Indian/Tibetan food

    The Bollywood Restaurant is decorated in blend of Tibetan and Indian style. The restaurant invites guests to host parties in their space for up to 100 people, and there is a meeting room that can hold 20 people. There are 12 staff at the restaurant – all of them are young and enthusiastic Tibetans, two of which are family members, and all of them speak Tibetan, Chinese, and English. Most of their ingredients are imported from India because Wangjia wants to ensure both the quality, and that the food reflects true Indian cuisine.

    Bollywood Resturant workforce
    Extravagant employees showing off some beautiful clothing

    The Bollywood Restaurant has two unique products to try while you are there. One is Beef (Yak) Curry, which is one of the Tibetan/Indian fusion dishes that travelers must try. The other is Butter Nam, which is baked in a Tandoor stove using a very hot and fast cooking process.

    Wangjia hopes that he can train more Tibetan chefs in the future. He also wants to expand his business to a chain of restaurants either in Chengdu, or to include other major cities. This expansion would hopefully require the training of even more Tibetan chefs in the future!

    Contact Info:

    地址：成都市武侯区高升桥北街成都A区高华二街69号【宝莱坞印度西餐厅】联系人: 义西求加

    电话：15680755882 座机：028-85586914

    Address: #69 Gaohua Second Street, First Ring Road, Wuhou District

    P: 18782916774 (English speaker )

  • Tewaga Tibetan Restaurants

    Tewaga Tibetan Restaurants

    There are two Tewaga Tibetan Restaurants for travellers to enjoy. One in Tiewu (Amdo Region), and the other in Chengdu, operated by the same management.

    One of the owners, Asang, is from North East Tibet. He was born a small village in a stunning valley called “Zhagana”. It is considered as one of the most beautiful places in the Amdo Tibetan Region.

    Asang went to university in Chengdu where he majored in Tibetan studies. Asang is a very knowledgeable, yet humble man who speaks Tibetan, Chinese, and English. His wife is a well-known Tibetan singer, Karma Jangdrol Drolma. They are both very passionate about education and social entrepreneurship.

    Tewage advertising
    Opening of the new restaurant back in 2012. One can see the beautiful singer: Karma Jangdrol Drolma.

    Together they opened their first Tibetan restaurant in 2006 in Tiewu county town, which is Asang’s hometown. They realized that a small business could make profit, but more importantly, business can help other people.

    The first restaurant encouraged them to take next step, so they opened their second restaurant in Chengdu in 2012. They wanted to continue providing people with healthy and organic, local Tibetan food in the big city of Chengdu.

    Tewage cuisine
    Healthy, organic Tibetan food offered to all in the big city of Chengdu

    Now they have 12 employees in total. A previous employee even opened their own restaurant after working and learning skills for a few years at one of Asang’s restaurants.

    Together, Asang and his wife want to continue offering more organic food to their clients, and to provide more job opportunities to Tibetans.

    If you visit either restaurant, some of Tewaga’s popular dishes include their Tibetan hotpot, and yak ribs.

    Contact Info:

    总店地址：甘肃省甘南州迭部县扎尕那藏餐宫。                                                                                                                           联系电话：0941-5623333
    Headquarters : Zhagana Tibetan Restaurant, Die Bu County Town, Gannan Prefecture, Ganshu Province.          Phone: 0941-5623333

    分店地址：成都武侯祠横街9号附2号，特瓦阁茶餐屋。
    电话：028-85516122      18010599929
    Branch:  #9  WuHouCi HengJie, Chengdu.
    Phone: 028-85516122      18010599929

     

  • Charu’s Coworking Space

    Charu’s Coworking Space

    If you make your way to the 16th floor of a seemingly unspectacular office building, you will discover a unique space that appears to be a cafe, but doubles as a shared coworking space for those looking to escape the office. Filled with books and artwork, an extrovert might find themselves a stimulating conversation to join, while and introvert may prefer losing themselves in one of the many books.

    Charu Coworking Space was started in Chengdu by two energetic and positive Tibetan guys – Tsering Tashi and Tsehua. They have been friends for a few years now, and both of them have a similar passion for providing people opportunities to study, train, and exchange ideas.

    Charu Interior look
    With a western feel to it, Charu offers a home away from home for foreigners looking to escape Chengdu for awhile.

    At the end of 2012, they founded a club called Norzang. The idea behind Norzang was to form a reading club or association for Tibetan entrepreneurs in all sectors and walks of life in order to encourage them to learn better, read more, and exchange even more ideas.

    Tsering Tashi and Tsehua found that participants in Norzang needed space and opportunities to learn and exchange effectively in the group, so as a result, they had to think of a way to solve the problem for Norzang. With this motivation, Charu was born in 2015.

    Charu is all about links. The name itself has a Tibetan meaning, coming from the word for the toggle that is used to connect all the parts of a black yak hair tent together. Tucked away on the 16th floor, Charu is not your ordinary coffee shop,  it is a shared work space and a service centre for entrepreneurs. But you can enjoy the best Tibetan yak milk coffee or yogurt in town. Charu’s unique design combining traditional Tibetan and modern elements provides a friendly and warm space for those who are looking for a peaceful place to work, a different environment, a place to share, exchange, read, and learn. Charu’s is a place where you feel great about who you are and what you are doing, and a place where you feel welcome.

    Charu window view
    Beautiful view outside the window allows a glimpse at the massive city.

    If you find yourself travelling to Chengdu, you can visit Charu to enjoy yak milk coffee, meet different people, browse the interesting book titles that line the shelves, or simply admire the beautiful Tibetan inspired décor that adorns the walls of this open and inviting space. Charu’s is worth the visit.

    Contact Info:

    四川成都市一环路南四段21号，A栋1单元1607,

    电话： 13540871122.

    Building A Unit 1, Rm 1607, No .21 First Ring Southern Section 4, Wuhou District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China. Phone：13540871122

  • A Re’s Restaurant

    A Re’s Restaurant

    A Re is the name of a very well known chain of restaurants in Chengdu, but also that of the business owner. The namesake herself was born in a very alluring and remote Tibetan valley, Danba, in the Kham Tibetan Region.

    A Re didn’t get the chance to attend school to get an education when she was a child, so she came to Chengdu 16 years ago to look for service-oriented jobs. This was her first time visiting Chengdu, and she was surprised to learn that there were no Tibetan restaurants in the area at the time. As a result, she came up with the idea of opening a restaurant in Chengdu, and introducing Tibetan food culture to the city through her restaurant. Fortunately for her, her brother supported her idea and was able to help her, so, A Re opened the first Tibetan restaurant in Chengdu.

    A Re dish
    Looking to have some traditional Tibetan food? A Re’s Restaurant has made sure you will find a wide variety of foods to try, from meat to vegetarian options.

    Now, A Re runs 5 restaurants in Chengdu, two of which are solely vegetarian. She believes that eating healthy food is very critical to the well being of people, so she is continually looking to offer healthier food to her customers. While here, try the Tibetan style hotpot, noodles, or “pizza”.

    The restaurant has provided a lot of job opportunities to Tibetans, and now employs over 70 staff. Of the employees, 90% of them are Tibetans.

    A Re delicious food options
    A Re makes sure that all food is healthy and organic for her customers. She believes this is essential for the well being of all people.

    A Re regrets that she couldn’t go to school, so she encourages young Tibetans to get education, and to use their education and skills to help their community. She has been providing training to people who are interested in working as restaurant mangers or chefs. So far, A Re has cultivated about 40 Tibetan restaurants managers and more than 100 Tibetan chefs in just the past few years alone.

    Contact Info (for the original restaurant):

    武侯祠大街234号(近南郊公园)

    #234 WuHouCi Street (Near Jin Li Street)

    P: 028-80836677 / 028-85570877

  • Nyiden (Yading)

    Nyiden (Yading)

    Yading Village is small rural establishment in Daocheng County of the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province of China. Located on the eastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Yading village is 3,700 meters above sea level. Yading village and its surrounding sights are part of the Shangri-la Natural Tourist Zone. Yading in Tibetan is referred to as Nyiden (ཉིན་སྟེང་།), which means ‘facing the sun’. Yading Village serves as base for exploration to the breathtaking Yading Nature Reserve.
    Yading Village Field Tibet
    Field found in Yading with beautiful landscape of the mountains in the background, untouched by industrialization.

    Yading Nature Reserve

    Honored as the last Shangri-la, the last pure land on earth and the holy land in the sun, Yading Nature Reserve is characterized by snow-covered mountains, vast green meadows, crystal clear rivers, glacier-fed lakes, and dense forests. It occupies an area of 1,344 square kilometers and has an average altitude of well over 4,000 meters. This mountain sanctuary comprises of the three holy mountains that have an altitude of around 6,000 meters – Chenrezig, Jampayang, and Chenadorje. The Yading Reserve serves as an important Tibetan pilgrimage location as the Fifth Dalai Lama sanctified the three mountain peaks.

    The three holy mountains are in a triangle formation cradling clear rivers, forested valleys, pristine lakes and exquisite wildlife. The area surrounding the three mountains is called Rigsum Gonpo. The highest of the three is Mount Chenrezig at 6,032 meters and signifies the Bodhisattva of Mercy. At the foot of the mountain is the clear Pearl Lake (Zhenzhu Hai). Mount Jambeyang, with an altitude of 5,958 meters, represents the Bodhisattva of Wisdom while Mount Chanadorje, with similar height, represents the Bodhisattva of Power.

    Gongga Chonggu Temple

    This 800-year old temple built during the Yuan Dynasty is now just fragments of broken walls as it has been severely damaged over the years. The remnants of Chonggu Monastery lie at the foot of Mount Chenrezig and consist of a Shijia sculpture in the chapel. Nevertheless, lamas can be seen reading Buddhist scriptures and murmuring religious songs at the Chonggu Monastery.

    Luorong Pasture

    Luorong Grassland is an elevated plateau (4,150 meters) that offers a spectacular vantage point of the three sacred mountains. It consists of lush green grass and winding streams and ponds. Not only does it offer a place for cattle and sheep to graze, but also lodging facilities to visitors.

    Wusu (Five Color Lake) and Niunai Lake (Milk Lake)

    Yading Milk Lake
    The jewel like lakes in Yading are fed by glacier run-off. This one is known as “milk lake”

    Milk Lake is created from a glacier runoff and boasts a milky turquoise color. It is bordered on one side by mountain-sized cliffs. Close to Milk Lake is the Five Color Lake which is surrounded by mountains on three sides and flows into the Zheduo River. Both these lakes are between Chenrezig and Jambeyang mountains and in sunlight, present an awesome burst of kaleidoscope colors.

  • Yachen Monastery

    Yachen Monastery

    History of Yachen Monastery

    Hidden away in a remote valley between Garze (Ganzi) town and Baiyu town, Sichuan, is the isolated Yachen Monastery ( ཡ་ཆེན་དགོན་པ།). Established in 1985 by a Nyingma Rinpoche, the current population of this monastic community is approximately 17,000 monks and nuns, with nuns holding the majority. Despite living conditions becoming more difficult and strains on supplies becoming more common as the population grows, people are still coming to the monastery to live and have shown remarkable perseverance in doing so.

    Yachen Monastery: Padmasambhava Idol (Guru Rimpoche)
    A several story high image of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava) dominates the landscape at Yachen Monastery. This Indian tantric master is regarded to have established Buddhism in Tibet

    Remote Living Conditions

    Many people call the area surrounding this Nyingma Sect Monastery a camp, and they don’t seem to be very far off. At over 4,000 meters elevation, temperatures here can drop well below freezing at times, making living conditions dangerous. Yachen Monastery is simply running out of living space, yet the population continues to rise. Food and water shortages have recently become an issue, with supplies running dangerously low. Even clothing is scarce, adding health risks to the list of challenges this monastic community faces each and every day.

    Electricity is almost nonexistent and there is only a short window from 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. where electricity is available for use. However, with a large portion of the population living in only tents and crudely constructed huts, electricity is not an option for everybody. While the monastery does not see too many visitors outside of the region, there are still a few places for visitors to stay. Most lack any bathroom or toilets with rooms that are often shared with other people, and keys are not provided. The exception is the large hotel on the right hand side as you arrive at the main gate. It has both decent rooms and good food in the attached restaurant. During the summer season, finding sleeping arrangements can be challenging for tourists, and it is highly recommended to bring ample amounts of water, food, and even camping equipment if necessary.

    Yachen monastery
    The winter landscape of the village and surrounding geography.

    Lama Achuk Rinpoche

    Most recently, Lama Achuk Rinpoche was the last to reside over the sect at Yachen Monastery. A former head of the Nyingma Sect in China, Lama Achuk Rinpoche was an incarnation of Longsal Nyingpo of Kathok Monastery, who was an incarnation of Amitabha Buddha. Born in 1927, he spent 43 years in retreat with Tulku Arik Rinpoche, his master. After becoming a realized Buddhist Master, he was highly regarded up until his passing in late 2011.

  • Chaktreng (Xiangcheng)

    Chaktreng (Xiangcheng)

    Located in the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Region of Sichuan province in China, the town of Xiangcheng (乡城) is in a scenic valley which stands at an altitude of 3,200 meters. Xiangcheng Town is also referred to as Chaktreng Town (ཕྱག་ཕྲེང་།) in Tibetan, which means ‘rosaries in Buddha’s hands’.

    From a Small Village to a Bustling Town

    Previously, Xiangcheng was a small village up in the highlands of northern Tibet. Relying heavily on agriculture, Xiangcheng Village was nestled between wheat paddy fields, and produced dairy products to sell across the county. Local Tibetans built large, cubical stone houses with white walls and colorful decorations around the windows, located alongside the Shuqu River. These small castle-like houses are very different from traditional Khampa houses and radiate a North African flair.

    Today, Xiangcheng Town still has acres of wheat fields and traditional square houses, but has seen heavy development converting it into a bustling rural town. Hotels, restaurants, outdoor cafes and stores selling essentials and Tibetan artifacts have sprung up in town. Xiangcheng Town, is a beautiful valley village with a modern Chinese downtown.

    History of Xiangcheng Village

    Xiangcheng was regarded as the White Wolf State during the rule of Eastern Han, Three Kingdoms, Wei, Jin, and the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Since the Xiangcheng region is surrounded by huge mountains from all sides, it remained as a remote location along the ancient caravan route that connected Yunan with Sichuan and Tibet. Strategically located, Xiangcheng people had firm characters displaying ruthlessness and unfriendliness to outsiders. When Joseph Rock came to see the area more than 80 years ago, he found Xiangcheng difficult to access as it was ruled by Sashatimba, who was an outlaw chief living at the Sangpiliang Monastery.

    Chaktreng Monastery

    Chaktreng Monastery, also known as Chaktreng Gompa or Xiangcheng Monastery, was originally built in 1669 and belongs to the Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The Chaktreng Monastery stands above the town and provides great views of the agricultural valley and stone houses. The Chaktreng Gompa overlooks the Chinese Martyr’s Cemetery. The Chaktreng Gompa has been reconstructed beautifully by painters, carvers, and carpenters to reflect the original temple.

    Bamu Mountain

    Bamu Mountain falls just outside the two to the west and is an impressive peak of many granite spires. There are a lot of waterfalls, the famous Bamu Lake, bizarre stones, protected animals, and rare flora in the Bamu mountainous area. Bamu Mountain and Lake are spread over 432 hectares. Bamu Mountain is considered to be holy as the spirit Jawarenga is said to dwell in the mountain.

     

  • Lhagang (Tagong)

    Lhagang (Tagong)

    A small, picturesque town located in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of western Sichuan Province, Lhagang (ལྷ་སྒང་།) is home to scenic grasslands, devoted monks and Tibetan nomads with their thousands of thick-coated yaks. Lhagang, also known as Tagong (塔公) in Chinese, is situated in the ancient Kham region in southwest China at an altitude of 3,700m. This treasured place in the foothills of the Tibetan plateau is around 110 kilometers from Kangding city. The town of Tagong features traditional Tibetan-style houses built from stone.

    As a tourist attraction, Tagong is a Wild West town offering an insight into the local Tibetan Buddhist culture with its monasteries, as well as horse riding, hiking, and Tibetan homestays.

    Historical Temples

    Tagong, meaning ‘favorite place of bodhisattva’ in the local language, is home to Tagong Monastery and Lhagang Monastery. The historic Tagong Monastery (Lhagang Gompa) is right in the town center while the Lhagang Monastery is at a ten minute walk south of the town center.

    Tagong Monastery (Small Jokhang Temple)

    The famous Tagong Monastery was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1911) to honor the journey of Princess Wencheng on her way to Lhasa for her wedding to Tibetan King, Songtsen Gampo. It houses the replica of the sacred statue of Jowo Sakya-muni Buddha at Jokhang Temple in Lhasa along with scriptures of the Sakya Buddhist sect and other cultural relics more than 10,000 years old. A major three-day Buddha event is held at the end of June every year at the Monastery.

    Lhagang Monastery

    At the foothills of the sacred snowcapped mountain lies the Lhagang Monastery. The Lhagang Monastery consists of the Muya Golden Pagoda, which was built in 1997. The Muya Golden Pagoda was gifted by a Living Buddha of Zhuqing Monastery. It has a 100-kilogram pure gold roof in the center of the monastery’s four towers and honors the Living Buddha 10th Panchan.

    Tagong People of Tibet
    Meeting at the monastery to learn and pray.

    Tagong Grasslands

    Tagong Grasslands are a vast expanse of meadow covering an area of 712.37 square kilometers. These beautiful grasslands are home to Tibetan nomads grazing their herds of yaks and living in traditional black yak wool tents. A Horse Race Festival is held in the grasslands every year at the beginning of the eight month of the lunar calendar. Local Tibetan herdsmen in great numbers get together to watch the sport and attend the Tibetan opera. These festivities are witness to the authentic Kham Tibetan culture.

    Yaks near Tagong
    Yaks travelling across the grasslands of Tagong

    Mount Yala

    Mount Yala is located at an altitude of 5,820m in the midst of Danba, Kangding and Daofu and is covered with snow all year round. With the magnificent Golden Padoga and captivating grasslands, Mount Yala presents spectacular views and hiking opportunities. Mount Yala is worshiped by Tibetan people as the area’s patron saint. The Yala river sprouts from the Yala Mountain and merges with the Dadu river up ahead.

     

  • Sungchu (Songpan )

    Sungchu (Songpan )

    Located in the North of Sichuan Province, with a population over 68,000, is Sungchu (ཟུང་ཆུ). Until recently it was an agriculturally dominated community, but with an influx of foreign students and travelers to and from Huanglong, Sungchu, known in Chinese Songpan County (松潘), has added tourism to being one of its top sectors.

    Songpan’s Strategic Location

    Built during the Tang Dynasty and expanded during the Ming Dynasty, for many years this was an important military location. When it was established, it sat at the border of the Chinese and Tibetan empires, and at many points in history the Tibetans staged invasions into China from its strategic location.

    Songpan valley
    View of the city from atop of a hill

    Deep History

    In 641, in order to broker a truce between the two empires, Emperor Tang offered Princess WenCheng to the Tibetan King in Songpan. There are several statues of Princess WenCheng in town which symbolize this time of peace and it is not uncommon to find many tourist admiring and taking photos. Plenty of historic sites exist as well, with much of the city’s walls still standing, including its gates.

    Exploring Adventurously

    The surrounding areas have much to offer – enormous valleys, rolling hills, and seemingly endless forests and guides can be found all around Songpan and its neighboring areas. Mountain bike tours of the area can take most of the day and offer access to areas too far for a hike or backpacking trip, but the options are still there. Many tourists spend more than a day or two out in the mountains, hiking and camping along the way to smaller villages filled with livestock and farming.

    Songpan streets
    City street not similar to the noisy streets of major cities in Mainland China.

    For the Brave

    Hiking and mountain biking can get you far, but there is no better way to experience all Songpan’s beautiful landscape has to offer than with a horseback tour. Day trips and overnight treks are common and some agencies in the area offer an even more, in depth trek lasting anywhere from four to seven days with a combination of camping and sleeping in villages.

    Shopping for Tourists

    Shopping in a more tourist-oriented town can sometimes be tricky, as furs and hides can be fake or even worse, poached from endangered animals. The best choices for souvenirs here are the silver jewelry and hand-crafted clothing. You can often find a silversmith working on a new piece near the southern end of the main strip where some of the silver shops are located. This southern area also tends to have better prices as it is farther from the high foot traffic areas near the center.

    Songpan Tea Tibet
    Some delicious Songpan tea to enjoy and relax after an exciting day in the city

    Western styled foods and shops often come within territory of tourist based towns, and Songpan is no exception. For pizza, coffee and Wi-Fi, Emma’s Kitchen is the place to be, right off the main road. However, there are still many restaurants with traditional Chinese and Tibetan food and drink, including butter tea. This drink of butter, milk, egg, sesame, walnut, and red tea has a long standing history in Songpan and many Tibetans keep a pot on the stove, ready to serve at a moment’s notice.

  • Sershul (Shiqu)

    Sershul (Shiqu)

    Shiqu Town (石渠), also known as Sershul (སེར་ཤུལ།), Serxu, Dzachuka, or Shiquis, is a town in Shiqu County in the Garze Autonomous Prefecture in the northern part of the Chinese Sichuan Province. Shiqu County is spread over 25,000 square kilometers and lies approximately 4,200 meters above sea level on average. Mostly covered by green pastures and grazing yaks, Shiqu is home to a majority of ethnic Tibetans with most of them being nomadic herdsmen.

    Shiqu has become an important center for trade for nomads who regularly arrive in town to buy and sell goods. The town now also has restaurants serving local food and decent hotels for visitors.

    Sershul Tekchen Dargyeling Monastery

    The Sershul Monastery is large monastery in Shiqu which belongs to the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddism. The monastery, housing the Buddhist Monastic University, has authorization to teach the highest Tibetan Buddhist Geshe Degree. The monastery consists of six main temples, several halls and a residential building housing hundreds of monks. Two huge chanting halls with artifacts dedicated to the founder, Je Tsongkhapa, are present in the largest temple. There are also other rare and sacred Buddhist pieces in the monastery, some of which date back to 2,000 years. Every year, a Molam Festival or Prayer Festival is held in the monastery in October which is heavily attended by nomads from Dege, Yushu and Nagchu.

    Shiqu Horse Festival

    Every summer in July, a Horse Festival is held in Shiqu where nomads from across the region gather to show their sportsmanship and engage in several different sporting events. The Shiqu Horse Festival creates a festive atmosphere for Tibetans who dance, drink and enjoy horse races. During the festival, Tibetan women are seen wearing colorful robes and decorative waist bands, huge necklaces, amber hair decorations and fancy embroidered hats.

    Shiqu Statue Tibet - Copy
    Shiqu statue showing King Gesar.

    The Legend of Sershul

    According to legend, when King Gesar defeated one of King Hal’s brothers i.e. the King of Yellow Tent, he let some of his previous followers stay in the region. Although they lived peacefully, they felt the need of a place of worship. A man named Sershul suggested them to build a monastery after seeking permission from the descendant of King Gesar, the Derge King. The former followers of Hal Kingdom sent Kagyu Lohrong Dondeng to convince the King of Derge to allow a religious site to be set up. The local people named the monastery as Sershul Monastery once it was built to laud the person who proposed this idea.

     

  • Sertar (Seda)

    Sertar (Seda)

    Seda (色达) is located at an elevation of about 4,000 meters in a remote valley on the Tibetan Plateau, in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the western part of Sichuan province in China. The Tibetans know Seda by the name of Sertar (གསེར་ཐར།), which means Golden Horse.

    Though Sertar is located in the historical Kham region of the Garze Prefecture, it is traditionally part of the Golok region where natives speak Amdo Tibetan language. This is why Sertar is referred by to by Tibetans as Golok Sertar. The Setar region, a treeless remote valley, has gained immense popularity because it is home to the largest Tibetan Buddhist school in the world.

    Seda Larung Wuming Tibetan Buddhist Monastery

    At a distance of about 780 kilometers from Chengdu, this monastery in Larung Gar, Sertar, is home to 40,000 Tibetan monks who have devoted their lives to studying Buddhism. The institute, belonging to the Nyingma sect (red sect) of Tibetan Buddhism, is where tens of thousands of Lamas (local male Buddhists) and Juemus (local female Buddhists) practice monastic study. They practice in red houses, thousands of which look like red dots scattered around this spiritual valley.

    The surrounding hills of the monastery are also sprinkled with tiny, red, wooden houses built close together. The monks and nuns are separated by a massive wall right across the middle of Larung Gar. Monks and nuns are required to stay in their designated area. Only the area in front of the main monastery assembly hall is open to both.

    Seda city
    View of both the Monestary and the population of monks coming to live and study in Seda

    Establishment of the Buddhist Academy

    The living Buddha, Jinmei Pengcuo, founded this Buddhist Academy in Larong, Seda in 1980. Back then, this Bhuddism sect had only 32 followers and was approved by the Seda government in 1985. The academy received its official name of Seda Larung Wuming Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in 1997. Since then it has developed into the largest Buddhist institute in the world.

    The Larung Buddhist Monastery in the highest grassland plateau is open to all devotees from various sects of Tibetan Buddhism: Gelug, Nyingma, Kagyu and Sakya unlike other monasteries. Buddhism is taught at the Monastery in both Tibetan and Mandarin languages because students come here not only from Tibetan areas but also from across the rest of China, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Taiwan and Singapore. It takes six years of study to complete formal training while higher levels of Monastic study require up to thirteen years.  Apart from monks, nuns and students, the Monastery attracts thousands of pilgrims across Tibet. Visitors to the institute can watch readings in the morning and student debates in the evening.

    Note 

    As of 2017 Sertar  Monastery is not open to western travellers. We don’t have exact information of an opening date. But we will update once we know the opening date.

     

  • Sertar Larung Gar (school & monastery)

    Sertar Larung Gar (school & monastery)

    Population Explosion at Sertar Larung Gar

    Known around the world as the largest school for Tibetan Buddhism, Sertar Larung Gar Tibetan Buddhist Institute and Monastery (གསེར་རྟ་བླ་རུང་དགོན་པ།) has caused the population of its surrounding town to grow exponentially in recent years. This monastic community is located in a remote and treeless valley of Garze Tibetan Autonomous Region, in Sichuan Province. The dormitories nearby house over 10,000 monks from all schools of Tibetan Buddhism including Gelug, Kagyu, Sakya, and Nyingma. At the center of the academy you can find the main Monastery, surrounded by living quarters, elaborately decorated Buddhists statues, and large halls for the 5:00 p.m. debates on scripture, which are open to the public.

    Larung Gar wide view
    Wide view of the city, one can see the compacted housing inside Larung Gar

    History

    Sertar Larung Gar first began in 1980 after the Cultural Revolution and has been growing ever since, starting with small numbers and an even smaller community. It was founded by Master Jin Mei Pengcuo with only 32 followers. It took nearly five years for the Seda government to approve of the Buddhist’s teachings at the academy and two more years before a committee was put together to even nominate its pending name, the Seda Larung Wuming Buddhist Academy. It wasn’t until 1997 however, that the school finally received its official name and the population explosion began.

    Community Today

    Today, people have flocked to the area, known to the Tibetans as Serthar, building homes that place the monastery at the center of the town, with some simply travelling from far away just to pray here. In fact, it is one of the most popular locations today as a final destination for those ending their pilgrimage. Many of the monks who come here to learn will stay with two or three other monks, living in small quarters for periods upwards of three years at a time.

    Monastery stands tall, with the movement of many monks coming to study the religion.

    A Unique School

    In contrast to many Monasteries today, Wuming Buddhist Academy is open to practically anyone wishing to learn. In fact, students can be taught in Mandarin as well as the Tibetan language and currently there are over a thousand mandarin speaking students in the community. These students mostly come from Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia, and Hong Kong. Also surprising is the fact that almost half of the students here are women, a number not often heard around other Monastic academies.