Tibetpedia

Tag: Sichuan

  • Mt. Yala

    Mt. Yala

    Geography

    Located near the border of Daofu County, Danba County, and Kangding County, of Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture, Yala Mountain (བཞག་བྲ།)is one of the most popular mountain treks in the Sichuan region. With snow covered peaks year round, Mt. Yala has an elevation of 5,820 meters and offers several trek options for mountain enthusiasts. The area around the border of Kangding that includes the mountain range is also a nature preserve.

    History

    Aside from being a large attraction for visitors to the area, it is also one of four holy mountains worshiped by the local Tibetans. It is mentioned in the Epic of King Gesar in this way and held highly by the locals in this regard. In ancient Tibetan texts, the mountain is referred to as “Shambhala the Second” and also “Oriental White Yak” and contains many religious and prayer flags hung all around the mountain. Its name in Chinese is Yala Xueshan. Tibetans have been coming to Mt. Yala for centuries to hang their prayer flags in honor of the mountain spirits.

    Yala mountain and grasslands
    Beautiful contrast with the grasslands and snow capped foothills. (As seen from Tagong)

    Scenery

    Surrounding Yala Mountain to the north and northwest are the Tagong (Lhagong) Grasslands, creating a stunning contrast between the snowy mountain side and the grasslands below.  Nearby villages can also be reached, including Danba, one of the most beautiful valleys in the region. It is popular to begin a few days trek to the mountain starting at Kangding or an even closer point around Zhonglu village, to have the best experience.

    Yala Mt Trek
    Trekking route on the East (Back) side of Yala Mt

    Trekking around or across Mt. Yala can take days and properly preparing should be a priority. Zhonggu sits at an altitude of around 3,000 meters and is a great location to ascend Mt. Yale’s eastern pass, which roughly sits around 4,216 meters. The trek is not steep and can be climbed with not too much difficulty. This can also make the change in elevation easier for those not used to such high altitudes. As Sichuan’s second highest mountain range, on a clear day you can see for miles, making this scenic trek very worthwhile indeed. Off in the distance, you may even be able to spot the peaks of Minya Konka, covered in snow.

    Yala Mt Trek
    Yala Mt offers both great trekking and backcountry cycling options

    Planning a Trip to Mt. Yala

    If you plan on making the long trek and camping out in the area, there are a few things you should prepare for. The temperatures can drop well below 0 degrees at night, so a good four season tent is recommended, as well as sleeping bags that can handle these sub-zero temperatures. Plenty of layers of clothing to adapt to the changing temperatures throughout the day is also critical. Talk to Zhilam Hostel in Kangding if you’re looking to hire a local guide on location in Kangding, or contact Extravagant Yak for a quote on an all inclusive package tour from Chengdu.

  • Manigangou

    Manigangou

    Located in Ganzi Prefecture in Sichuan Province in southwest China, Manigangou (མ་ཎི་གད་མགོ།)is a small yet active town at an elevation of 3,950 meters. It is a town exhibiting typical nomad culture with Tibetan herdsmen riding on horses, Khampas on flashy motorcycles passing by and people enjoying drinks in wooden Tibetan houses. Manigangou is a single-street cowboy town at the edge of the grasslands near Chola Mountain, which has a lot to offer within and around its surroundings.

    Strategic Location of Manigangou

    This small nomad town lies at the intersection of three main roads: Kandze at 85 kilometers to the southeast, Derge at 110 kilometers to southwest, Yushu and Serxu 429 kilometers to the northwest. Truckers coming from and to Tibet make a stop at Manigangou to take a sip of Yak buttered tea and unwind before moving ahead on their journey. In the past, Manigangou was regarded as an important transfer and hiatus station on the Tea Horse Road where caravan fleets would stop.

    Manigangou_yak_trading
    Locals gather to trade yaks in Manigangou.

    Yilhun Lhatso Lake

    Yilhun Lhatso, also known as Xinluhai or Yulong Lake, is a gorgeous lake at an altitude of around 4,200 meters, just 11 kilometers west of Manigangou town. This sacred and beautiful glacial lake is nestled amidst the rocky, snowy Chola Mountains of Trola range. Offering beautiful sceneries, Yilhun Lhatso Lake is a protected nature reserve. On the shores of this lake one can find dozens of religious, carved prayer stones, as this is a holy lake. The stunning alpine lake is said to provide meditation opportunities for those who wish to achieve enlightenment. Several monks come from the nearby monasteries to meditate. The grasslands around Yilhun Lhatso Lake are perfect for hiking, camping and horse riding.

    Dzogchen Gompa Monastery

    About 30 kilometers from Manigangou is the Dzogchen Gompa Monastery. Dzogchen Monastery is among the largest Monasteries of Nyingmapa School in Kham region, and is an active center of spiritual study and practice and a major pilgrimage site. Dzogchen Gompa was built in the late 16th century by First Dzogchen, Pema Rigdzen on the order of the Fifth Dalai Lama. Dzogchen Monastery has been home to many great masters including Khenpo Pema Vajra, Khenpo Shenga, Patrul Rinpoche and Jamgon Ju Mipham Gyatso. The monastery was destroyed by fire in 1936 and was later rebuilt but destroyed again by the Chinese in 1959. As per the directions of the 14th Dalai Lama, the Dzogchen Monastery was re-established in South India in the late 1950s. Since the early 1980s, the original monastery has been undergoing reconstruction.

  • Barkham (Maerkang)

    Barkham (Maerkang)

    The prefectural capital of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, sometimes known as Barkham (འབར་ཁམས), Maerkang (马尔康) holds a mostly Han Chinese population of around 50,000, with some Tibetans as well. Because of its elevation, Maerkang has a unique climate resting somewhere between subtropical and humid continental, where monsoons are not uncommon.
    Maerkang hillside
    See the large hills around Maerkang

    Sightseeing In the Area

    Maerkang, which in Tibetan means “The Place Lightened by Butter Lamps,” is not the most tourist-friendly place to visit as almost no one speaks English and it can be difficult to find a way to travel to and from here. Many places will not rent rooms or offer a place to sleep to foreigners, although you may get lucky and find a local who is willing to help. Despite all this, there are still plenty of sites to see in the area. The Dazang Temple is a popular destination, with a wonderful view of the ancient block houses below and beautiful views of the snowcapped mountains and plant life in the area. Near the towns of Songgang and Shaerzong, both are nice places to stop for a bite to eat and take in more historical sites.

    The Maerkang Temple

    Located on Zangkou Mountain, the Maerkang Temple is another popular destination for visitors. Not only does this temple offer a look at a historic site, but from the mountainside, views of the valley below are plentiful. From the base of Zangkou Mountain, the Suomo River Canyon flows all the way to the Baiwan Township.

    Maerkang
    View from the hillside, Maerkang is small in comparison to China’s mainland cities.

    A Chance to View History

    Not far from Maerkang, roughly ten minutes away, is the village of Zhoukeji. Here you can see the renovated watchtower fortress, which was formerly occupied by Mao Zedong. He stayed here several times during the Long March. For a steep price you can gain entry and also have another view of the surrounding landscape. Across from the watchtower is a small village featuring many traditional Tibetan architectural structures.

    Take In The Scenic Beauty

    Some of the best scenic locations in the area are only a short distance away from Maerkang, in Miyaluo, which some describe as almost like a fairy tale in autumn. Mostly overgrown vegetation, clear water from the mountains, vast plant and animal life, and the red leaves that cover the area that time of year offer an abundance of photo opportunities. Complete with flowing rivers and waterfalls, giant maple trees and even bubbling hot springs, the area is great for anyone looking for solace or inspiration.

    Events for Visitors

    During certain times of the year, the area is also host to a number of festivals and events including new years and many horse racing events complete with barley wine, music and plenty of traditional food.

  • Lithang (Litang)

    Lithang (Litang)

    Lying at the edge of a vast grassland valley, Lithang (ལི་ཐང་།) is the administrative hub of Litang County. Also known in Chinese as Litang town (理塘) , the town is situated in the southwest of Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province. Litang is a historic town at an altitude of around 4,000 meters above sea level, even higher than Lhasa, which is why it is even known as a ‘town up in the air’.

    This town in the midst of grassy hills is a major center of Tibetan culture in Kham and bustles with trading activities of Tibetan people and nomadic shepherds. The population of Litang town is around 60,000 with the majority being ethnically Tibetan. Litang town is a blend of tradition and modernity with fortress-like brown stone houses, satellite dishes and power lines.

    Litang collection of Tibetan Language in stone
    A stupa is seen surrounded by thousands of inscribed stones in a mani pile.

    Significance of Litang

    Litang town has been home to several important and renowned Buddhist personalities including the seventh Dalai Lama, the tenth Dalai Lama, four Pakpalhas, Zebutsundaba Lama of Mogonia, the 7th Gyamuyang Lama, and the first three Xianggen living Buddha.

    Litang Horse Race Festival

    For hundreds of years, Litang is famed for its horse racing festivities where Khampas gather together from all across Tibet and Southwest China. The festival not only gives a chance for Kham Tibetans to display their sportsmanship skills, but also provides opportunities for trading supplies, singing and dancing. The Horse Race Festival usually takes place in the first week of August and lasts for about a week. Tibetan nomads set up tents on the grasslands and wait anxiously for the big event. The horse festival is not a mere race, but a matter of socio-economic hierarchy, and honor and prestige in the participating Khampas. At the festival, people and horses dress to impress. Women wear their finest robes with impressive jewelry and head gear while participating horses are adorned with colorful fabric.

    Litang Monastery

    The Litang Chöde Monastery lies at the north of the town and was built in 1580, honoring the third Dalai Lama (Sonam Gyatso, 1543-1588). The Litang Monastery is the biggest Gelukpa monestary in the Kham region making it important to Tibetan Buddhists. In 1956, a major portion of the Monastery was destroyed when resistance erupted to communist reforms in Kham. Over time, many buildings of the Monastery have been reconstructed. It is said that the seventh Dalai Lama had resided in one of the chambers of the Monastery.

     

     

  • Lhamo Gompa(Langmusi)

    Lhamo Gompa(Langmusi)

    Different Faiths in Langmusi

    The Sichuan-Gansu border runs right through the center of Lhamo (ལྷ་མོ།) town. Here, Islamic and Buddhist faiths live peaceably together in this monastic village that hosts two Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist monasteries as well as an Islamic Mosque. Lhamo offers visitors a look into both religions and cultures. Although each is located in a different province, Kirti Monastery (ཀིརྟི་དགོན་པ།) and Sertri Monastery (གསེར་ཁྲི་དགོན་པ།) are not far from each other. Some speculate that the reason the border splits the town is because of years of power struggles between the two Langmusi monasteries.

    One of the two Langmusi Monasteries known as the Kirti Monastery.

    Behind the Name

    The Tibetan Buddhist monasteries are known as the Dacang Lhamo Gerdeng Monasteries. Dacang means “Tigers’ den” and, as the story goes, there was a large tiger den near where the Monastery now sits. The word Lhamo means “fairy maiden.” In nearby caves, the shape of the stones resemble the female body. The literal translation of Dacang Lhamo, then, is “a fairy maiden in the tiger’s den.”

    Monks enter the meeting hall at Kirti Monastery in Langmusi.

    Langmusi Monasteries

    Kirti Monastery

    Both of the monasteries are well regarded and historically significant. Kirti Monastery, however, is the larger and more impressive of the two. Kirti sits on the Sichuan side of town. Seven hundred monks call Kirti home. The first of its temples was built in 1713 by a descendant of Kirti-incarnated lamas, named Tala. By 1748, three temples were built in total and the area was expanded into a much larger compound. There are many caves behind Kirti Monastery. In one of these caves, you can find the statue of the Tibetan Goddess, Palden Lhamo. The Namo Gorge, which is the source of the Bailong River, is also nearby.

    Kirti Monastery Caves
    A cave near Kirti Monastery
    Sertri Monastery

    The Sertri Monastery is also called the Gansu Monastery. It is on the northern hill on the other side of the river. This monastery dates back to 1748 and is one of the few remaining locations of Tibetan Sky Burials. These ceremonies are usually private. Sertri Monastery is home to nearly 350 monks, making it the smaller of the two monasteries. Despite its smaller size and less impressive reputation, many Tibetan pilgrims begin their Kora at Sertri.

    Sertri Monastery Langmusi
    Sertri Monastery in Gansu
  • Garze (Ganzi)

    Garze (Ganzi)

    Lying in the vast expanse of the beautiful Ganzi Valley (甘孜) at an altitude of 3,800 meters, surrounded by the majestic Chola Mountain, green hills dotted with yaks and rocky ridges, is the active Ganzi town. Ganzi town (also known as Garnze, Ganze, and Kandze (དཀར་མཛེས་རྫོང་།)) is the capital of Ganzi County situated in Garze Autonomous Prefecture in western Sichuan Province of China. The town, about 385 kilometers northwest from Kangding town, overlooks the stunning snow-peaked mountains of Minya Konka (Mt. Gongga / Gongga Shan) range and has Rongcha River passing through it.

    Ganzi

    Ganzi Town

    The lively market town is populated by a majority of Tibetan people, and is an interesting area in terms of landscape and culture as it is traditionally part of the Kham Tibetan region. The town radiates a strong sense of Tibetan tradition and culture as tough Khampas (the name given to the people of Kham) and yaks can be seen roaming around town. The main intersection is crowded with people, trucks, cabs, motorcycles, and even a few horses. A central street in the town is Chuanzang Road, which is lined with small shops selling traditional Tibetan clothing, jewelry and others accessories. There are also shops that display antiques, traditional Tibetan hand-carved furniture, as well as monk’s garments, and religious artefacts. The town also features modern supermarkets selling food, beer, Chinese wine, music CDs, and DVDs.

    Ganzi Monastery

    Ganzi Monastery, known as Ganzi Gompa in Tibetan, is found at the north of the town and belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This large monastery was built in 1642 by Mongols after they took control of the area. During the Chinese Revolution, the monastery was partially destroyed, but was later rebuilt in Han Chinese style with white tiles and plastic window panes.

    Therefore, when compared with other monasteries, Ganzi Monastery has lost its original Tibetan charm and is now a fusion of Tibetan and Chinese architecture. With over 1,500 monks, the Ganzi Monastery is the largest Gelugpa religious site besides the Litang and Chamdo Monasteries in the Kham region. The halls and terraces of the monastery offer amazing views of the surrounding beautiful valley with its lofty hills and the bustling Ganzi town.

    Ganzi monastery

    This 540-year old monastery is adorned with a considerable amount of gold. The walls of the grand main hall are lined with hundreds of small golden Buddha statues (Sakyamunis) while an inspiring, large statue of Jampa (Maitreya or Future Buddha) clad in a silk robe stands in a smaller hall to the west of the main hall. With many resident monks and devotees from the town and nearby areas circling the little chapels with giant prayer wheels, the temple is bustling throughout the day.

     

  • Derge (Dege )

    Derge (Dege )

    Derge (སྡེ་དགེ ) in the native tongue which means land of mercy in Tibetan, is located in the Garze Tibet Autonomous Prefecture in the Kham area of the Tibetan Plateau. The town is regarded as the cultural hub of the Kham region in the northwest of Sichuan province, close to the border with the Tibetan Autonomous Region. The town of Dege sits in a valley close to the Tibetan border and is made up of a mix of traditional Tibetan colorful houses and modern Chinese concrete buildings.

    History of Dege

    This town, along with Lhasa and Xiahe, was a historic center of Tibetan culture and the seat of kings of the Dege Kingdom. Being an influential kingdom in Kham, the Kingdom of Dege was recognized as a hub for politics, religion and industry. In the 15th century, the town became the kingdom’s capital under the rule of Lodro Tobden. The Chinese government took control of the kingdom in 1727, and in 1733, its king was elevated to the status of Hsuan Wei Ssu. In 1895, the town was taken over by forces sent by the Governor-General of Szechuan, and the king and his family was taken as prisoners to Chengdu. By the time China intervened, the king died leaving behind two sons who struggled to take over the throne. From 1908 to 1918, China had direct control over Dege.

    Barkhang (Parkhang) Scripture Printing House

    The Dege Parkhang Printing House is a cultural treasure in Tibet, housing publications of different sects of Tibetan Buddhism and culture as well as works of science and technology, medicine, history, mathematics and language among others. With over 250,000 hand-engraved wooden blocks of knowledge, the Dege Barkhang is home to 70% of Tibet’s literary heritage. Even today, artisans continue to carve wood to preserve Buddhist scriptures, and expert printing staff handprint books.

    Dege Printing House

    Derge Sutra Printing Temple, as it is also known, was established in 1729 by the fortieth Dege King, Kemba Tsering and took about 21 years to be constructed. Surprisingly, the Dege Parkhang remained unaffected during the campaigns of Gonpo Namgyal, the early twentieth century succession struggles and religious and cultural suppression under the Chinese Communist Party.

    The Barkhang also holds religious significance to Tibetans who come here from across the region to walk holy koras around it.

    Gonchen Monastery

    Gonchen Monastery, also known as a Derge Monastery, is a huge Sakya sect Tibetan Buddhist Monastery. It was built in 1448 by renowned Buddhist polymath and physician, Thang Tong Gyalpo. Derge Monastery came under attack during the Cultural Revolution but was restored in the eighties and is now home to about 300 monks. The monastery boasts a unique design and is adorned with white, dark red and gray colors linked with the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

  • Dawu ( Daofu)

    Dawu ( Daofu)

    An agricultural region dotted with big, beautiful Tibetan houses, Dawu (རྟའུ།) lies in the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northwestern Sichuan Province, China. Dawu, known as Daofu (道孚) in the Chinese language, is accessible by road from Kangding (219 kilometers) and Chengdu (585 kilometers). Daofu region lies at an average altitude of 2,560 meters above sea level at the southeastern edge of Qingzang Plateau. It is nestled between the counties of Kangding and Yajiang to the south, Xinlong to the west, and Jinchuan, Zamtang, and Luhuo to the north. It is known for its high-quality Tibetan architecture displayed in its folk houses as well as furniture.

    Traditional Daofu Folk Houses

    In Daofu, Tibetans have built their houses on mountains surrounded by green woods. These rows upon rows of white and brown houses are built with wood, stone, and earth. Apart from the white exterior walls, the houses have a gold-painted roof that shines brightly under the sun. The roof is constructed in shape similar to the Chinese character “井”. The window frames and eaves of the houses are intricately carved with complex, amazing patterns of dragons, phoenixes, giraffes, cranes, flowers, birds, and clouds.

    The interior of the houses consist of spacious and bright rooms providing a comfortable living environment. Representing a folk art museum, exquisite and classic Tibetan paintings are adorned on the doors, girders, pillars, and walls. Adding to this, hand-carved, colorful Tibetan furniture and décor add a unique charm to the rooms. Every Tibetan house has a meditation room, which is decorated with Thangka and colorful lights, and Buddhist sculptures surrounded by pretty flowers. The rooms carry a relaxing aroma in the air to reinforce the meditation process.

    Daofu architecture
    Daofu is known for their unique style of architecture.

    These Tibetan houses are built close to the rivers and mountains facing east towards the sun so that they are cool in summer and warm in winter. Because of the solid, simple structure of the houses, they are also earthquake resistant. In Daofu today, these Tibetan villas on the hills stand together with modern hotels, shops, and restaurants downtown.

    Referred to as ‘Double Wonder’, the local Tibetan residential houses display the rich ethnic culture of Daofu and their local customs. Even the local Daofu food is very different from Chinese regions and has traditional rich flavor.

    Nique Gompa Monastery

    Located at the center of town, Nique Gompa belongs to the Geluk sect of Tibetan Buddhism. It offers a good vantage point of the three sacred mountains in the surrounding area. It was built in 1662 and houses famous sculptures made from Highland Barley Butter (tsampa).

  • Dabpa (Daocheng)

    Dabpa (Daocheng)

    Dapba (འདབ་པ།) is located in Daocheng County in the Garze Autonomous Prefecture in Southwest Sichuan, close to the border of Northwest Yunnan. The town is at an altitude of 3,750 meters and is the best starting point for the Tibetan areas of western and southern Sichuan. Dapba is known as Daocheng Town (稻城) in Chinese.

    The town itself is a thinly populated, dusty two-street town that lives off agriculture, where farms with crops, tractors, and livestock are commonly seen. The area around the town consists of wild countryside with lofty hills, and winding rivers and valleys. The local Tibetan residents consider their hills and mountains sacred.

    Daocheng town offers a passage to the famed Yading’s Nature Reserve.

    Scenic Daocheng
    Yading is known for the land’s natural beauty.

    Yading Nature Reserve

    The famous explorer, Dr. Joseph Rock, on his exploration journey of the southeast Tibetan Plateau, stumbled upon the nature and beauty of Yading and photographed the entire area. Later in 1931, an issue of National Geographic detailed Dr. Rock’s exploration of the area together with incredible photographs of Yading. Tibetans have cherished Yading Nature Reserve for a long time and associated the three majestic peaks of Yading – Chenresig, Jampelyang, and Chanadorje – with the abode of their gods. Even today, local Tibetans make a Kora of the highest peak, Mount Chenrezig, at least once a year.

    Daocheng Yading Airport

    The Daocheng Yading Airport is situated 50 kilometers north of town and about 130 kilometers from Yading Nature Reserve. It holds the record of being the world’s highest civilian airport at an altitude of 4,411 meters – making Qamdo Bamda Airport in Tibet (4334 meters) the second highest airport. It was built in two years and cost around $255 million to build. The airport can handle up to 280,000 passengers annually and is serviced by Air China, China Eastern Airlines, and Sichuan Airlines.

    Mount Haizi (Mountain of Lakes)

    Mount Haizi or Mount Zhara Lhatse peaks at an altitude of 4,500 meters and boasts an amazing number of lakes – 1,145 in total. Mount Haizi is a national nature reserve that is covered with unique geological formations as a result of glacial erosion. On way to town, Mount Haizi can be seen in parallel with the Daocheng River. Mount Zhara Lhatse is also known as the ‘old ice cap of Daocheng’.

    Other Sights around the town

    Gonggaling Lamasery was constructed in the 15th century and is located 62 kilometers south of the town along the road to Yading. It is the biggest monastery in the county, and it holds an exquisite bronze statue of Maitreya (the Future Buddha) given by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Also in the area, about 4 kilometers outside of Daocheng are the famous Rubachaka Hot Springs.

     

  • Rongtrak (Danba)

    Rongtrak (Danba)

    Rongtrak (རོང་བྲག), also known in Chinese as Danba County (丹巴),  is situated around 350 kilometers west of Chengdu, in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of western Sichuan Province. As the county seat, it is a bustling town that sits in a tight canyon on the banks of the Dadu River at the convergence of three valleys. ‘Kingdom of Watchtowers’ and ‘Beauty Valley’ are two titles given to Danba County because of its many watchtowers and beautiful Tibetan women!

    Danba Villages

    Tibetan villages on the slopes above the valley below are culturally rich places that have been dubbed as paradise on earth. The famous among these include Jiaju, Zhonglu, and Suopo – littered with watchtowers and traditional Tibetan fortress houses. Each of these villages is on a separate mountain a short distance from one another. All three Tibetan villages have their own unique architecture and culture depicted in their housing style.

    Tibetan architecture
    Ancient architecture still dots the landscape in Zhonglu Village, Danba County

    Watchtowers

    Danba County is scattered with stone watchtowers ranging from 300 to 1,500 years old. These watchtowers were constructed in different polygonal shapes and with differing heights up to 60 meters using refined construction techniques. Some are clustered together while others stand alone on hills. The majority of these watchtowers are found in the villages of Zhonglu and Jiaju.

     

    Danba Watchtowers
    A view of Danba’s Watchtowers.

    Their Historical Uses

    Moreover, different types of watchtowers at different locations served unique purposes. These include Yao’ai (Strategic Pass), which was erected at strategic places such as mountain passes to deter entrance. Jia (Dwelling) was built within villages to connect houses and served as storage during peace and as defense during war. The Zhai tower (Village) was set up at the entrance to villages for protection. Lastly, Fenghuo (Beacon-Fire) watchtowers were positioned at hilltops for communication purposes using flames/fires.

    Current Day Usage

    Danba’s towers were not only used for protection from enemies but also signified a family’s influential status. Today these watchtowers are used by farmers to store equipment on the ground floor.

    Danba Kham Tibet
    Farms in Zhonglu Village, Danba County

    Valley of Beauties

    Tibetan women in the villages of Danba County have gained the reputation of being attractive and graceful. Their stunning beauty thus gives the valley its name – Beauty Valley. Many women have now left the villages for better job opportunities as hostesses, office assistants, and models in bigger cities. According to a myth, a phoenix that flew to Mo’erduo Mountain (Holy Mountain) transformed into thousands of pretty women, which is why women are blessed with beauty in the area. Every three years, a beauty contest is held in the County to select the prettiest girl. Danba girls are usually seen to be wearing a headdress, turquoise and coral ornaments into their plaited hair, and an ethnic style red dress.

  • Bathang (Batang)

    Bathang (Batang)

    Lying in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province of China, Bathang (འབའ་ཐང་།) also known as Batang Town (巴塘) in Chinese , is a fertile area at an altitude of 2,700 meters. The town is located on the main road between Lhasa and Chengdu, overlooking the Jinsha River (translated as Golden Sands River which is the Upper Yangtse River) to its west. This valley town relies mainly on agriculture because of its highly fertile soil. In the past, Batang was an important element of the horse and tea trade between Tibet, China, and India. It functioned as a stopover point on the Tea Horse Road between Lhasa and Ya’an. The houses in town are close to the river at the mountain’s base, and are made of mud rather than wood or stone.

    Batang Farm
    Horses graze near town.

    Etymology of Batang

    Historically, the town was called M’Bah in Tibetan language. The word Batang comes from ‘ba’ which is the noise that sheep make and ‘tang’ which means plain. Therefore, the town name implies wide grasslands where sheep can be heard from everywhere.

    History of Batang

    After the Great War between Tibet and China, the boundary between the two was defined in 1726 between the head-waters of the Yangtse and Mekong Rivers. A stone monument was erected to the southwest of Batang to signify boundaries. The area to the west of the pillar including Litang, Derge, Nyarong, five Hor and Batang counties belonged to Tibetans, while that to the right came under Chinese control. An earthquake in 1871 heavily damaged Batang. In 1904, the Qing government tried to regain control of Kham and Amdo by sending in Zhao Erfeng, Governer of Xining. The area was heavily destroyed with monasteries and sacred texts being violated and aiming at populating the area with the poor farmers of Sichuan. By 1932, Tibetans had lost much territory and asked the Indian government to intervene. A ceasefire agreement was signed in 1934 whereby all areas to the east of Yangtze River were given to Chinese control.

    View of Batang
    A rainbow over Batang.

    Chöde Gaden Pendeling Monastery

    The Gelugpa Chöde Gaden Pendeling Monastery is located at the southwestern end of town near the bank of Batang River. The Chöde Pendling Monastery comprises of dramatic structures is encompassed by a high white wall, and nestled within beautiful willow and cypress trees. Similar to the Litang Monastery, Batang’s Monastery also boasts two huge golden roofs and a number of towers. The Chöden Gaden Monastery houses about 1300 to 1700 monks or lamas and is constantly thronged by priests who come in for pilgrimage. Every year, around the 26th of the ninth Tibetan month, a performance of colorful cham dances is held near the bank of River Batang which is attended by lamas as well as the town’s residents.

    Cham Dancers
    A cham dance is performed.

  • Axu

    Axu

    Axu (ཨ་ཕྱུག)Town and Axu Grasslands are situated in Dege County in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan, China. It is an isolated region in eastern Tibet that includes green pastures dotted with sturdy yaks, snowy, lofty and rugged mountains and crystal clear lakes. The small Axu Town and its surrounding grasslands are inhabited by nomadic herdsmen and their grazing yaks.

    Axu Grasslands

    Axu Grasslands are located about 230 kilometers northeast of Dege Town. Axu Grasslands cover an area of 800 sq. kilometers, and have the Yalong River flowing through it. These grasslands not only provide picturesque sceneries, but are also known for their harsh climatic conditions. The Chinese government plans to initiate projects of large-scale farming of wheat and barley, and gas exploration in Axu Grasslands. Since the grasslands are at an altitude of over 4,500 meters, they thus remain frozen for six to nine months a year. Nonetheless, this harsh and inhospitable area is believed to be the hometown of the famous Tibetan, King Gesar.

    The Legendary King Gesar

    A famous hero and warrior, King Gesar is said to have been born in the Axu Grasslands and was the ruler of Ling Kingdom in east Tibet during the 11th century. He is considered to be a fearless leader who waged war against all the enemies of the kingdom and protected the poor. Different versions of King Gesar and his life exist across Tibet and Central Asia including a number of Tibetan versions, a Mongolian version, a Buryat version, a Lower Ladakhi version, a Salar version, and a Bhutan version.

    The Famous Temple

    The temple of King Gesar was constructed in the Axu Grasslands in 1970 by Ling Cong and was later renamed Memorial Hall of King Gesar. An enormous statue of King Gesar riding a horse stands in the main hall of the temple. The heroic tales of King Gesar are widely told by the inhabitants of Axu Grasslands in the form of stories, songs and dances. The ‘Epic of King Gesar’, the greatest literature work on the life of King Gesar, is popular in Tibet, Sichuan, Inner Mongol, Gansu, Qinghai and other places. In the Axu Grasslands, celebrations to honor the legendary warrior take place often.

    The Epic of King Gesar

    Similar to Iliad of Greeks and King Arthur of medieval Europeans, Tibetans have the Epic of King Gesar. Rooted deep into folklore, stories of King Gesar had been passed down generations orally while its written beginnings are found back in 1716 when it was, upon Qing Emperor’s order, translated from Tibetan. This Oriental Iliad covers important reigns of Tibetan social development and also descriptions of countless tribes and regions. The Epic of King Gesar is the longest work of literature in the world with over 120 volumes and 20 million words in more than 1 million verses.

     

  • Dancing Yak Handicrafts

    Dancing Yak Handicrafts

    Dancing Yak Handicrafts was founded in Chengdu in 2012. Inside locals and tourists alike stop to browse the beautiful selection of yak and sheep wool materials, carefully crafted into bags, pillows, and more.

    The owner of the company is a Swiss lady named Katja. She realised that traditionally Tibetan women worked with their hands to weave tents made out of Yak wool, but now as those of the Tibetan culture find themselves increasingly living indoors in towns and cities, Katja did not want to see the traditions of their culture disappear. Instead, Katja is helping entrepreneurial Tibetan ladies take what is traditional and transition their skills into the modern world. She travels around Tibet to collect yak wool and uses it to make different Tibetan bags, table runners, and pillowcases, etc.

    Dancing Yak shop
    Dancing Yak is a cozy shop full of various trinkets and gifts waiting to find a home.

    Now, she has 4 employees, and all of them are female Tibetans. Katja usually provides one year of training to her employees with regards to sewing and cutting material. She is not only training her staff, but also encouraging them to use their own creativity to create modern Tibetan style fusion products. She is also hoping to hire more Tibetan woman, and with that, Katja looks for employees who are open minded, willing to learn, and teachable.
    Katja opened Danging Yak in Chengdu in 2013, where all of her handicrafts products are on display, and if you have chance to travel to Chengdu, you can visit the store to see samples of the women’s work. The women themselves benefit from the proceeds of the items they create. It’s a worthwhile visit to see the blend of traditional and modern culture come together in beautifully designed products. One of the best selling products is their hand-woven, yak wool bags.

    Dancing Yak custom bags
    Custom bags created by Katiya’s Tibetan employees.

    Katiya has been supporting the local economy by buying locally made and sourced products. She has also been raising the quality of life for Tibetan women by empowering them as they grow in their own skills, abilities, and cultural pride. Katja hopes that there will continue to be more and more Tibetan female entrepreneurs in future.

    If you are looking for a souvenir to add a colourful splash to your house, or an item to serve a more functional purpose, take a stroll down Shuhan Dong Road to visit the Dancing Yak.

    Contact Info:

    地址: 四川省成都市武侯区蜀汉东街7号附12号民族手工业品店。

    电话: 13709010130

    Address: Shuhan Dong Rd,7/12 Chengdu, Sichuan, China. (200m Opposite the Minority University Westgate) Subway line 3 Gaoshengqiao station exit C.

    Phone: 13709010130

    Website: dancingyakhandicrafts.com

  • Blue Sheep Handicrafts & Giftshop

    Blue Sheep Handicrafts & Giftshop

    Tucked away in the streets of Chengdu shoppers can find Blue Sheep Handicrafts & Giftshop. Surrounded by restaurants and other stores, the locals frequent this area as well, telling me that we have come to the right place. Continuing inside the store, I am surprised by how spacious the shop feels, even with so many unique items on display. I immediately spy a few items that I wouldn’t mind adding to my personal collection. Here I meet Dr. Ray, a woman who radiates joy and compassion.

    Blue Sheep merchandise
    From toys to bags to even mugs, Blue Sheep offers a wide variety of handcrafted gifts to bring home to anyone

    Dr. Ray is a British lady who has spent most of her life living and working overseas. She is passionate about taking healthcare where there is none, and in 1999 started running surgery camps in Tibet. However, she soon realized that for Tibetans and the other ethnic minorities she was working with, it was very hard to pay for necessary things such as healthcare and education if you didn’t have a very good source of income. As a result, she and her husband began offering skills training to the locals in sewing, carving, carpentry, painting, and beekeeping, etc.

    But the problem still remained: even with the skills, if you can’t sell your products to a larger market, how do locals make the necessary money to support their family?

    The answer came in the form of Blue Sheep. In 2014 Dr. Ray opened the shop, and now buys from over 35 producers. These producers are selected for their quality, fair trade principles, and ecological sustainability, but they also represent over 600 people who are directly involved in the creation of these products. These direct beneficiaries have others relying on them for the income as well, so it’s not hard to see how this little store in Chengdu is truly impacting lives in China! Most of the profit from the Blue Sheep goes back to the producers to provide even more enterprise training, or to assist in disaster relief efforts.

    Blue Sheep merchandise 2
    Blue Sheep is a “one stop craft shop with a difference where you shop with a purpose!”

    When asked what she wanted her customers to know, Dr. Ray says that the Blue Sheep is a “one stop craft shop with a difference where you shop with a purpose!” There are stories attached to most of the products, and information is also available on a rack at the front door about some of the different suppliers.

    If you do stop by and get a chance to meet Dr. Ray, ask her how she named the shop, and she will tell a story of woman versus sheep at the edge of a cliff.

    Contact Info:

    地址:一环路南四段高升桥北街1号, 成都A 区1楼35号商铺。

    电话:15882336584

    Address: Shop 35, A Qu, Gaoshengqiao North Street (Near Walmart at Roman Holiday Plaza)

    Phone: 15882336584

  • Trochu (Heishui)

    Trochu (Heishui)

    Trochu (ཁྲོ་ཆུ་རྫོང་།), under the Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, is part of Sichuan Province. Most of the Tibetans found here are not Amdo speaking. In fact, they are part of a sub-group known as Gyarong, who are Qiangic speaking Tibetans. Known in Chinese as Heishui County (黑水), Trochu has something to offer for every visitor from modern luxuries and hotels to scenic routes and hiking tours of the Dagu Glacier.

    Monastery outside Heishui
    The monastery above Heishui.

    Food to Try

    In town, there’s a wide variety of restaurants. You can find authentic Tibetan cuisine, fast food franchises and Sichuanese restaurants of every kind. If you are on the run, there are plenty of locals selling food as street vendors. The smell of shaokao (Chinese BBQ) fills the air. Choose your skewered meats and vegetables for the vendor to grill. Make sure you tell him how much spice you can handle! Tibetan tea also has a long-standing history here. You can find it on almost every menu you come across.

    Lodging for Visitors

    There are numerous hotels to stay in around the area. Locally-run guesthouses are also available and can have a cozier feel without the luxuries of the larger hotels. They typically offer a comfortable stay for lower prices and much more space. For those going with the guesthouse option, you may also find yourself lucky enough to try some homemade barely wines, as well.

    Lake near Heishui.
    The view on the way to Heishui.

    The Scenic Tour of Heishui

    Visitors come to Heishui for the famous scenery and tours. Not far from town by way of a hike or backpacking tour, you will come across everything from majestic waterfalls to massive rivers and icy lakes. Travelers who find themselves in Heishui in Autumn should pay a visit to Cailin (pronounced “tsai leen”). Cailin means “Colorful Forest.” Between late September and early November the forest leaves change color. Every shade of gold, orange, yellow, and red speckles the mountainsides. The Heishui colored forest is the largest in Asia. This area is formed from the San’ao Mountains, Dagu Glacier and both Kalong Valley and Hongjun Valley. Some of the best views of the forest come from the Kalong Valley, where every aspect of Cailin’s beauty can be seen.

    Heishui Dagu Glacier Lift
    Reaching the Dagu Glacier near Heishui.

    Dagu Glacier: A Magnificent Site to See

    The most popular destination, however, is Dagu Glacier. And while the trip can be a little tiring and though high altitudes may bother some visitors, the views from the top are well worth it. The glacier site is open to visitors year round. However, as mentioned above, for the best views one should go in November.

    What a Ride!

    The journey to the top begins with a shuttle bus to the base of the glacier. During the shuttle ride, you’ll have plenty of chances to catch some great scenic views. After arriving at the base, a cable car takes you to the top of the glacier. The cable car ride provides great views of the lakes, rivers, and forests in the area. You may also spot a few of the many species of plant and animal life on the way up. The views from the cable car are almost as magnificent as the final destination itself. Once at the top of the nearly 5,000-meter peak, you finally have a view of the glacier and valleys. You’ll be able to see clearly how the glacier has dug in and shaped the great valleys below.

  • Dzongsar Monastery

    Dzongsar Monastery

    History of Dzongsar Monastery

    Throughout its dozen or so centuries of history, the Dzongsar Monastery (རྫོང་སར་དགོན།) has seen expansion, transformation, utter destruction and ultimately, rebirth. While it may not have been restored to its former glory, what the monastery has seen and accomplished over the years is nonetheless remarkable.

    Located in Dege County, in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan, the Dzongsar Monastery was founded in 746. From Dege town, it is roughly a 100km drive that takes a couple of hours due to a poor road. The first structure built here was the small Jowo-Lha-Chig-Kar-Chig temple along and shrine by a Bonpo Lama. Sometime between this event and 1275, the temple was changed into a Nyingma temple and then a Kadampa temple. In 1275 however, on a return trip from China, Drogön Chögyal Phagpa founded a new Sakya monastery on the site and has remained a part of that sect until this day.

    Until its destruction in 1958, Dzongsar Monastery housed nearly 500 monks and numerous other visitors who came to the monastery to speak with the monks there. The monastery had expanded to twenty-three temples and dozens more sacred and religious halls and rooms, several of which were retreat centers.

    Dzongzar monastery
    Dwellings for the Dzongsar monastic community

    Flexible Teachings

    Having changed sects on numerous occasions, the teachings here over the years have become very flexible with eight different sects being taught at the school currently. Prior to 1958, in conjuncture with its openness to different sects, Dzongsar Monastery housed a rare collection of Rime teachings and scriptures assembled by advocates of the Rime movement over the course of many years.

    1958 and Beyond

    Due to the violent nature of the rebellion in the late 1950’s in Tibet, all the temples at Dzongsar Monastery were destroyed including the only original structure from 746, the Bonpo Shrine. Starting from nothing, reconstruction on the monastery began in 1983 and today the monastery is only a fraction of its former glory with six temples being built since that time.

    A fair amount of construction was reserved for the rebuilding of residences to house the monastic population. Because of the reconstruction, there are more than two hundred monks housed on site today and the main temples cover an area of roughly 12 acres. After years of sitting without use, the monastic school continues with its policy of openness and flexibility in its teachings.

    Dzongsar valley
    View of the valley from the ridge above Dzongsar monastery

    Incense

    In addition to being known for its history, reconstruction and openness, Dzongsar Monastery is also known for its incense. Dzongsar Tibetan Incense Sticks and Dzongsar Tibetan Incense Powder are the two commercially sold brands from the monastery. The incense has grown popular over the years and is even said to have a kind of healing effect on the mind, body and soul. Created from the natural herbs of the Eastern Tibetan highlands, many say the powerful incense can even prevent infectious diseases.

  • Palyul (Baiyu) Monastery

    Palyul (Baiyu) Monastery

    Location

    Initially built in 1665,  Palyul Monastery (དཔལ་ཡུལ་དགོན།), also known as Baiyu Monastery( 白玉寺) in Chinese  sits above the many homes along the hillside, at the center of a small village in the Ganzi Prefecture in the western part of Sichuan province. The monastery overlooks the town and valley below with an elevation around 3,150 meters. Sticking with the traditional style of Tibetan architecture and planning, the monastery and surrounding homes are built on the slope of the nearby mountain. At its peak, Baiyu Monastery housed hundreds of monks from all over, many of whom travelled great distances from affiliated branch monasteries.

    The Temples

    Baiyu Monastery is one of the six “Mother Monasteries” that follow the Nyingma school of thought, or the Ancient Translation Tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery was founded by Kunzang Sherab, who was the first throne holder as well. In addition to establishing the monastery, he also built several temples that hold enormous significance to the Tibetan monks today.

    One of those important temples, The Chagrakhang, contains a gilded image made of copper depicting Jowo Shakyamuni in the form of Jowo Yeshin Norbu. The Temple also includes frescoes of the Namcho deities and in addition to other extravagant temples and halls, Baiyu Monastery contains an incredible library as well as the Dorsem Lhakhang.

    Life in Baiyu Monastery

    Just past the main halls, the monastery houses its own printing press. Although a small system, it is a very common sight on the second floor of the main hall to see carvers work diligently at crafting delicate scripts here in reverse for printing. Wandering the temples, halls and town nearby, you may also run into some of the 200 monks who are housed at the Baiyu Monastery. While the village has amenities for the monks and villagers to live here, there really isn’t much else to offer for visitors. Other than the Jixiang Hotel, the town itself has no restaurants or guesthouses for tourists to stay and eat at, although if you are lucky, you may find a welcoming villager or monk who will offer you room and board and the possibility of a home-cooked meal. The stupa is a popular gathering area where striking up a conversation with the villagers isn’t uncommon.