On the eastern edges of the Tibetan plateau, in the Kham region south of Kangding and Xinduqiao, lies Mount Gongga (Minya Konka), the 7,556-meter sentinel of the Mount Gongga mountain range. The mountain is the third largest peak outside of the Himalayas. At one point in the 1930s, its height was miscalculated and thought to be over 30,000 feet, which would have made it the tallest mountain in the world. The myth was short-lived as the National Geographic Society quickly disproved the claim. It does stand head and shoulders above every other peak in the region and its prominence from some of the deep, surrounding gorges make it easy to understand how some might have mis-calculated its height.
Viewing Minya Konka
Minya Konka lies shrouded in clouds amongst the other peaks of the Gongga Range
Catching an unhindered view of Mt. Gongga’s peak is a rare occurence as it typically carries with it its own weather system. Even when the rest of the sky is relatively cloudless, Gongga will still wear a shroud of clouds. The steep valleys surrounding Gongga make it difficult to see even though you may be walking through its own foothills. There are a few common vantage points available for viewing Gongga, though you still need a good dose of luck to see it. The Kangding Airport road provides a clear, though distant view of Gongga and the surrounding mountains. You can also potentially view it from the Riewuqie pass on the Gongga through-trek. There are parts of the 318 Highway between Yajiang and Kangding from where you can also see the mountain. But the best viewing spot for Gongga is at the pass above Zimei village.
A Wonderland of Adventure
Surrounded by awe inspiring landscapes
During late spring and early summer, Tibetans comb the valleys and mountains around Gongga for caterpillar fungus. More and more trekkers are finding their way to Mt. Gongga. There is a popular trail hike that begins just to the south of Kangding and ends in Zimei village, which visits one of the most isolated monasteries on the planet. Visitors have the option of even staying the night at the monastery itself, which was build over 700 years ago nestled into a steep valley on the western side of Minya Konka. It typically takes 5 to 8 days to traverse the 70-kilometer journey.
This 700 year old monastery is one of the most isolated on the planet
There have been many attempts to summit Mt. Gongga. And many fatalities. It has been successfully summitted only a few times, most recently in the summer of 2017 by a group from the Czech Republic. But for the average adventurer, Minya Konka is a veritable alpine playground. Boasting some of the most inspiring and breath-taking landscapes in the region, the Gongga Valley is a trekker’s, and mountain biker’s, dream. It doesn’t get any better than this.
Dartsendo (དར་རྩེ་མདོ། ) or Dardo (དར་མདོ། ) is a major gateway city on the eastern side of the Tibetan Plateau. Also known as Kangding (康定) in Chinese, it rises 2,600 meters above sea level and is the first Tibetan city you come to when traveling west from Chengdu. Kangding teeters on the Eastern edge of Tibet and, historically, has been a trading post between Tibetan and Han Chinese cultures. Bricks of tea came by horse over the mountains from Ya’an – the center of westward tea distribution in ancient China – while Tibetans bartered their nomad wares and yak milk products with the Chinese tea merchants.
Kangding is also the seat of political power for the majority of Kham Tibet. It is the county seat and prefectural capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan known as Garnze (甘孜 “Ganzi” in Chinese). Unlike most other towns further west and higher on the Tibetan plateau, Kangding is a turbid mixture of Tibetan and Han cultures with an approximately 50/50 split population of 100,000 people, with a small population of other ethinic minorities.
Fed by nearby Gongga Mt and Zheduo Mt, the river cuts Kangding in half and fills the streets with a constant roar
A small, but rapidly moving river divides the narrow valley city into Northwest and Southeast halves. The noise from the rushing waters echoes throughout the city streets. Summertime is accompanied by higher volumes of rainwater and thus higher volumes of river noise. Wind rips through the valley bringing with it a significant wind chill. Thus, even many Tibetans consider Kangding a colder place to spend the winter months than in their high plateau hometowns. Towering over the Southeast part of the town is the famous Paoma (“Running Horse”) Mountain. Residents and visitors regularly climb to the top of the hill for a view of the city, or for festivals or cultural events that the city hosts.
While in Kangding there are several places that travelers may wish to explore. With multiple monasteries, the Nanwu Monastery to the west side of town is the most active in the area, but the Ngachu Monastery might be one you wish to visit as it is conveniently located in town and has less traffic. The Lhamo Tse Monastery is about 2 kms from downtown, and Dentok Monastery lies at the top of Mt. Paoma, with travelers either taking the cable car or hiking to the top. Those wandering People’s Square in the morning are likely to find Tai Chi, but at night the square is filled with Tibetan or Western-style dancing. Most travelers enjoy joining in on the community fun.
There are plenty of options for day hikes around Kangding. A good source for information on nearby activities is Zhilam Hostel which is located on the west side of the valley on the hillside above Kangding Hotel. Outside of Kangding there is plenty to do as well. For active travellers there is the option of arranging a trek in the incomparable alpine wonderland of Mt. Gongga (Minya Konka in Tibetan) south of the city. The area around Gongga Mountain can accommodate any length of trek from one day to multi-day, and even extended backcountry treks for up to two weeks or more. For those who prefer a less active adventure, 40min by car west of the city sits a gorgeous alpine lake known locally as Mugecuo. Though the lake area has become commercialized with tourism in recent years, it still remains a good option for a scenic day trip.
Camping within one day’s trek of Kangding, near Gongga Mt. (Minya Konka)
Mugecuo is a local alpine lake about 40min drive from Kangding
There are multiple transportation options in and out of Kangding. The bus station sits at the northeast entrance to town just before the road drops toward Chengdu. There are multiple daily departures from Kangding to Chengdu and most major travel nodes in Eastern Tibet (Litang, Ganzi, Dege, etc.). Private vehicles are also for hire around the bus station. Travelers are now also able to fly into and out of Kangding via the recently built airport on the plateau, a 45min drive from the city. Leaving Kangding it is a 30km drive of nonstop climbing to the top of Zheduo Pass to reach the third highest airport in the world at 4,280m. On a clear day the airport has breathtaking views of the nearby Gongga and Yala mountain ranges.
Zheduo pass (4200m) between Kangding and the airport
Located near the border of Daofu County, Danba County, and Kangding County, of Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture, Yala Mountain (བཞག་བྲ།)is one of the most popular mountain treks in the Sichuan region. With snow covered peaks year round, Mt. Yala has an elevation of 5,820 meters and offers several trek options for mountain enthusiasts. The area around the border of Kangding that includes the mountain range is also a nature preserve.
History
Aside from being a large attraction for visitors to the area, it is also one of four holy mountains worshiped by the local Tibetans. It is mentioned in the Epic of King Gesar in this way and held highly by the locals in this regard. In ancient Tibetan texts, the mountain is referred to as “Shambhala the Second” and also “Oriental White Yak” and contains many religious and prayer flags hung all around the mountain. Its name in Chinese is Yala Xueshan. Tibetans have been coming to Mt. Yala for centuries to hang their prayer flags in honor of the mountain spirits.
Beautiful contrast with the grasslands and snow capped foothills. (As seen from Tagong)
Scenery
Surrounding Yala Mountain to the north and northwest are the Tagong (Lhagong) Grasslands, creating a stunning contrast between the snowy mountain side and the grasslands below. Nearby villages can also be reached, including Danba, one of the most beautiful valleys in the region. It is popular to begin a few days trek to the mountain starting at Kangding or an even closer point around Zhonglu village, to have the best experience.
Trekking route on the East (Back) side of Yala Mt
Trekking around or across Mt. Yala can take days and properly preparing should be a priority. Zhonggu sits at an altitude of around 3,000 meters and is a great location to ascend Mt. Yale’s eastern pass, which roughly sits around 4,216 meters. The trek is not steep and can be climbed with not too much difficulty. This can also make the change in elevation easier for those not used to such high altitudes. As Sichuan’s second highest mountain range, on a clear day you can see for miles, making this scenic trek very worthwhile indeed. Off in the distance, you may even be able to spot the peaks of Minya Konka, covered in snow.
Yala Mt offers both great trekking and backcountry cycling options
Planning a Trip to Mt. Yala
If you plan on making the long trek and camping out in the area, there are a few things you should prepare for. The temperatures can drop well below 0 degrees at night, so a good four season tent is recommended, as well as sleeping bags that can handle these sub-zero temperatures. Plenty of layers of clothing to adapt to the changing temperatures throughout the day is also critical. Talk to Zhilam Hostel in Kangding if you’re looking to hire a local guide on location in Kangding, or contact Extravagant Yak for a quote on an all inclusive package tour from Chengdu.
Lying in the vast expanse of the beautiful Ganzi Valley (甘孜) at an altitude of 3,800 meters, surrounded by the majestic Chola Mountain, green hills dotted with yaks and rocky ridges, is the active Ganzi town. Ganzi town (also known as Garnze, Ganze, and Kandze (དཀར་མཛེས་རྫོང་།)) is the capital of Ganzi County situated in Garze Autonomous Prefecture in western Sichuan Province of China. The town, about 385 kilometers northwest from Kangding town, overlooks the stunning snow-peaked mountains of Minya Konka (Mt. Gongga / Gongga Shan) range and has Rongcha River passing through it.
Ganzi Town
The lively market town is populated by a majority of Tibetan people, and is an interesting area in terms of landscape and culture as it is traditionally part of the Kham Tibetan region. The town radiates a strong sense of Tibetan tradition and culture as tough Khampas (the name given to the people of Kham) and yaks can be seen roaming around town. The main intersection is crowded with people, trucks, cabs, motorcycles, and even a few horses. A central street in the town is Chuanzang Road, which is lined with small shops selling traditional Tibetan clothing, jewelry and others accessories. There are also shops that display antiques, traditional Tibetan hand-carved furniture, as well as monk’s garments, and religious artefacts. The town also features modern supermarkets selling food, beer, Chinese wine, music CDs, and DVDs.
Ganzi Monastery
Ganzi Monastery, known as Ganzi Gompa in Tibetan, is found at the north of the town and belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This large monastery was built in 1642 by Mongols after they took control of the area. During the Chinese Revolution, the monastery was partially destroyed, but was later rebuilt in Han Chinese style with white tiles and plastic window panes.
Therefore, when compared with other monasteries, Ganzi Monastery has lost its original Tibetan charm and is now a fusion of Tibetan and Chinese architecture. With over 1,500 monks, the Ganzi Monastery is the largest Gelugpa religious site besides the Litang and Chamdo Monasteries in the Kham region. The halls and terraces of the monastery offer amazing views of the surrounding beautiful valley with its lofty hills and the bustling Ganzi town.
This 540-year old monastery is adorned with a considerable amount of gold. The walls of the grand main hall are lined with hundreds of small golden Buddha statues (Sakyamunis) while an inspiring, large statue of Jampa (Maitreya or Future Buddha) clad in a silk robe stands in a smaller hall to the west of the main hall. With many resident monks and devotees from the town and nearby areas circling the little chapels with giant prayer wheels, the temple is bustling throughout the day.
Mt. Kailash (Kang Rinpoche/གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ) in Western Tibet (TAR) is one of the most venerated religious sites in the world. Four separate religions consider the mountain holy, so it is no surprise that it is pilgrimaged by thousands each year. Conceivably, that number would most likely be greater if it weren’t so difficult to obtain permits to the area. Kailash is viewed by many in the Hindu-Buddhist worldview as the center of the world. Theories regarding its supernatural power abound, with some even claiming it is a pyramid that was built by aliens. Regardless of your personal belief, there are some very interesting facts about the mountain, many of which have only served to add to the various religious beliefs.
Kailash Trekkers at the foot of the mountain.
Mt. Kailash: The Holiest Mountain
Buddhism
Mt. Kailash is believed to be the abode of Demchok and Dorje Phagmo. Demchok is one of the Buddhist gods, and is also known as Samvara. Dorje Phagmo is the highest female reincarnation, and the third highest person ranking in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama.
No one has ever climbed Kailash, except the legendary Mila Repa (a sage), who apparently did battle with the forces of darkness on top of the mountain and won a victory for Tibetan Buddhism (see Bon below for the parallel).
Of note for Buddhists is the natural shape on the south face of the mountain. Also called, “the Swastika mountain”, the South face appears to have a natural swastika running from top to bottom and from side to side. This swastika is the result of a vertical cleft running down the center of the rock face, combined with a layer of horizontal strata that appears to complete the symbol. The swastika is used to depict spiritual strength in Buddhism, thus only elevating the significance of this holy mountain.
Hinduism
Hindus have come to believe that Kailash is the mountain spoken of in their epic tales: Mt. Meru – home of the gods. As such, Kailash is believed to be the residing place of Shiva, the god of destruction, and his consort Pirvati. For Hindus, making the difficult pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash and viewing the darshan (divine view) of Shiva’s dwelling place is said to attain release from the clutches of ignorance and delusion.
Jainism
Mount Kailash is known by the Jains of India as Astapada. It is believed that this mountain was the place where the first of their saints (tirthankara) – one by the name of Rishaba – entered Nirvana.
Bon (Ancient Tibetan Religion)
To the Bon-po believers, the mountain is called Tise, and is held as the seat of the sky goddess Sipaimen. It is also said to be here that the Buddhist sage Mila Repa (as previously mentioned), battled the Bon shaman Naro Bon-chung to displace Bon as the primary religion of Tibet. This battle of sorcery between the two religions is said to have taken place during the 12th century.
Kailash’s Natural Significance
However you choose to regard the religious significance of this peak, you cannot argue with its natural beauty, and geographical significance. Mt. Kailash has four faces perpendicular to each other, and each face aligns perfectly with the four cardinal directions. Four great rivers originate from this mountain and flow into the Indian subcontinent (Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra, and the Karnali which feeds into the Ganges), and this area is also key to the drainage system of the Tibetan plateau. Tibetan Buddhists call the mountain Kang Rimpoche, the ‘Precious One of Glacial Snow’, as the peak is snowcapped year-round.
Many travelers choose to trek around the base of Mt. Kailash and join the many pilgrims walking the kora around the mountain. The kora typically takes 3 days to complete (although it can be more) with Buddhists going clockwise, and Bon adherents counter-clockwise. Accommodation along the kora can be found in semi-permanent seasonal tents provided by local entrepreneurs making a living from both foreigners and local pilgrims alike. While hiking around the mountain is allowed, summiting the mountain is not. Permission has only been granted on a few occasions in history, none of which were successful in summiting. As could be expected, the sacredness of this mountain to the local Tibetan community means that there is significant resistance to climbers attempting to reach the summit. For the sake of peace, the Chinese Government maintains the mountain is off limits to climbers.
