Tag: TAR

Gesar Hotel

Shigatse is a place you don’t want to miss if you travel to Tibet. As the second largest city in Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), Shigatse is full of fascinating history and local culture. Shigatse is a modernized city where travelers can find many spots to enjoy the hospitality of the Tibetan people and their distinct culture. Such as that found at Gesar Hotel (“Kesar” in Tibetan). Gesar Hotel was founded by a nomad – Sonam Dorje – in 2012.
The beautiful reception area at Gesar Hotel.

Born in a very remote village, Sonam was not lucky enough to get education, but his ambition to start a business never went away. In 1994, Sonam became a father, and this was a life change that encouraged him to take first steps towards starting his own business. He wanted his kids to get better education and he was willing to do everything to support his family. Still, it took a few years before his dreams actually took flight.

Finally, in 2006, he founded his first construction company, and through this company he offered 200 job opportunities to his local community. Yet, Sonam was still not content continually seeing many young local people were struggling to support themselves. He wanted to help them discover and grow their skills. So he started building Gesar Hotel in 2008, and officially opened it on April 20^th, 2012. Now there are 70 employees at the hotel.

A guest room at Gesar Hotel.

Sonam came up with the name Gesar for the hotel because he grew up listening to his grandmother tell stories about King Gesar. Gesar is a hero in a lot of Tibetan’s hearts, so Sonam decorated the hotel in the theme of Gesar. Paintings on the wall in hotel will take you back in time, as all the paintings are about his life. When looking at the walls, it is not hard to get lost in the beauty of Tibetan art and this ancient culture.

Gesar hotel was the first hotel in Shigatse to be decorated in such a distinct Tibetan style, and guests are often amazed by the beautiful decorations and furniture found throughout. There are more then 150 rooms in the hotel, all of which are very clean and decorated with lovely, handcrafted Tibetan furniture.

A hall at Gesar.

You will also be amazed by the wonderful staff at the hotel. At Gesar Hotel, guests are treated as friends. The staff are very helpful, humble, kind, and they always try to make you feel comfortable. The manager of the hotel speaks fluent English, and he is always happy to help you and answer all your questions.

Sonam Dorje believes that Gesar Hotel is not only a business but also a part of the local culture. With so many employees, Sonam is having a great impact on a large part of the community. He hopes that he can help more young people with their family and future, and he also hopes that visitors will have a pleasant stay at Gesar Hotel.

If you are travelling through Shigatse, we highly recommend Gesar Hotel as a comfortable place to stay.

Contact Info:

地址：日喀则市龙江中路

电话：0892-8800088

Address: Long Jiang Middle Road

Phone: 0892-8800088

September 1, 2016
Tibet Travel Permit
1. What is a Tibet Travel Permit?

Firstly, a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) is NOT a visa or any other kind of stamp that goes in your passport. It is a completely separate document that is issued by the Tibet Tourism Bureau. It has two pages: the first page is the “permit” page and lists the name of the registered travel agency that is responsible for the organized tour as well as the dates and planned itinerary (place names within the TAR); the second page lists the names, passport numbers, nationality, age, and profession of each group member.

Without a Tibet Travel Permit, you cannot enter Tibet. You will not even be permitted to board a flight or a train to Lhasa. Foreign travelers must have the original permit in their possession; a copy is not permitted. Furthermore, it is highly likely that the smallest mistake on the permit will result in being prohibited to board your flight/train or to enter Tibet. This document and it’s accuracy are very important.

2. Who needs a Tibet Travel Permit?

With the exception of Hong Kong and Macau citizens, all foreigner travelers are required to process a TTP to enter Tibet. Diplomats, journalists, and certain professional media photographers are not permitted to enter on a TTP and must apply through the diplomatic channels of their respective countries, or media company they represent.

3. How do I process a Tibet Travel Permit?
The first step to processing a TTP is to obtain a Chinese tourist visa. You cannot process a TTP on your own. A registered travel agency in Tibet must be hired to process your Tibet Travel Permit for you. Why? The law in Tibet (TAR only) requires foreigners to book a tour with a registered Tibet travel agency and to have a guide accompany them for the duration of their time in Tibet. After you purchase a tour package or agree on an itinerary with your chosen Tibet travel agency, they need two items from you to process your TTP: 1. a scanned copy of your passport and, 2. a scanned copy of your Chinese visa.
Be aware that travel agencies in Tibet are prohibited by law from mailing the completed permit overseas, and do so at risk of losing their license. They are only permitted to mail the permit to a domestic address in China. Therefore Tibet travel agencies work with partner agencies in other Chinese cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, etc. to deliver the permit to travelers at their hotels before boarding their flight/train to Lhasa.

Chinese embassies and consulates cannot process Tibet Travel Permits*. Unbelievably, they have no authority to do so. Only the Tibet Tourism Bureau has the authority to issue a TTP, and the application must be made on your behalf by a registered travel agency.

*ENTERING TIBET FROM KATHMANDU. The one exception to this is for travelers who are entering Tibet from Kathmandu, Nepal. In this case a GROUP VISA needs to be applied for through the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu. For such visitors entering from Kathmandu, the group visa consists of one piece of paper that lists all travelers’ names. The group must both enter and exit the TAR together and the visit is limited to 15 days. Extensions are generally not permitted.

Chinese visas issued from other places are not valid for travel to China from Kathmandu.

4. How much does a Tibet Travel Permit cost?

The Tibet Tourism Bureau does not charge anything to issue the permit. Any cost associated with processing the TTP is charged by the travel agency that you hire, and is usually just included in your tour price. Such charges are understandable due to the time and hassle required by the agency to send staff in person to both submit the application and return to pick it up. Online submissions are not possible.

5. How long does it take to process a Tibet Travel Permit?

Processing a TTP can take up to two weeks. In theory, it can be completed as quickly as 3-4 days but often takes longer. This means that travel to TAR must be planned in advance by booking a tour with a registered travel agency ahead of time so they can obtain your TTP for you. Then they must get the original permit (not a copy) to you before you board your flight or train to Tibet.

6. From which cities can I enter Tibet with my Tibet Travel Permit?

Foreigners can enter Tibet with their TTP from any city within mainland China that offers a flight and/or train. This includes cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Xian, Xining, Kunming, etc. There are increasing numbers of cities that offer flights to Lhasa, including small county level airports in places like Kangding, Labrang (Xiahe), and Shangri-la.

*The ONLY international flight that operates to Tibet is from Kathmandu. All other flights originate from mainland China.

7. When is a Tibet Travel Permit checked while traveling in Tibet?

Foreign travelers are checked for their TTP at the following times and places:

the departure city for Lhasa, Tibet

train stations

airports

the entrance port on arrival in Tibet: Zhangmu, Lhasa, Tuotuohe River (when traveling overland from Xining)

each hotel/guesthouse visited in Tibet

major Tibet attraction sites (Potala Palace, Everest, etc.)

*Once you arrive in Tibet your guide will assume responsibility for your TTP and use it for checking you into your hotel, purchasing tickets to tourist attractions, and processing the permit when traveling outside of Lhasa.

Remember, a Tibet Travel Permit is only required if you plan to visit the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) where Lhasa and other iconic sites such as Yamdrok Lake and Everest are found. If you are interested in having the most culturally authentic experience possible in Tibet, this will be found in the Kham and Amdo areas outside of the TAR where there are far less tourists. For travel in Kham and Amdo Tibet, nothing more is required than a Chinese visa.
July 16, 2016
Tibetan Family Kitchen

Tibetan Family Kitchen is becoming a landmark in Lhasa for good reason. It was founded by a young and enthusiastic Tibetan couple in 2013. Namdon and Lumbum were tour guides for many years, but unfortunately in 2012 there were far too few tour groups to make a living. With the help and encouragement of Namdom’s sister, they decided to open a home-style restaurant, as both of them are great at making local Tibetan food and have experience in working with foreign guests. Seven years later they have progressed well beyond this small beginning.

Tibetan cooking classes offered at Tibetan Family Kitchen.

More than a restaurant offering mouth-watering Tibetan food, the cooking classes offered here are a cultural experience every traveler must include on their trip to this ancient city. Though the one room kitchen operation they started in back in 2013 has grown into a two-story restaurant with a roof-top patio near the old town, the friendliness and hospitality of the staff still ensures every guest experiences the warmth and welcome of a “family kitchen”. They also offer cooking classes if you are interested in the local food culture and learning how to make some of the dishes yourself.

Guests enjoying themselves at the Tibetan Family Kitchen

The unique entrance to the Tibetan Kitchen takes you straight past the open concept kitchen, before passing through to the dining area. As most kitchens are hidden in the back of restaurants, its almost as if Namdon is intentionally showing off one the cleanest kitchens in the whole city of Lhasa, and offering travelers peace of mind before they even order their food. If the weather is agreeable we highly recommend requesting a table on the roof-top which offers a special panorama view of the the city.

Rooftop dining offers panoramic views of Lhasa Tibet

Namdon and her husband Lumbum have years of guiding experience between the two of them, having taken foreign guests to Everest and beyond for many years. They have excellent English and are a great source of travel information both in Lhasa and all areas throughout Tibet. They are eager to please and only hope in return that foreign guests will have an enjoyable and memorable experience of Tibet.

The entrance to Tibetan Family Kitchen

Finding the entrance to the Tibetan Family Kitchen requires some careful searching. Use the address below and keep an eye out for the sign on top of the building, as well as the one on the street level. It is located on the second floor off of Dan Jie Lin Road leading to the Barkhor area. The entranceway is a small passageway up some stairs between local shops. It is well worth searching for!

Contact Info:

Address: 西藏拉萨市丹杰林路 6-2-5

Phone: 13889015053

Address: Dan Jie Lin Road 6-2-5

Phone: 13889015053

June 23, 2016
Sonam International Youth Hostel

Sonam International Youth Hostel was founded by a capable Tibetan lady, Nizhen, in 2008. As a result of the train to Lhasa opening in 2006, the tourism in the area developed greatly. As Nizhen had a few years of experience in running a hostel in mainland, China, she decided to open a Tibetan style hostel in Lhasa. The hostel was one of the first three in Lhasa. The name “Sonam” means “eternal blessing” in Tibetan. Nizhen came up with the name because she hopes people will be blessed by practicing kindness and compassion whilst they visit.
The hostel has been doing really well, and in 2013 it was chosen, as “the trusted hostel” from among 300 hotels by the local tourism bureau. There are 12 employees at the Sonam, and they are very kind and helpful to their guests.

Entrance to Sonam Hostel

The hostel is a real home away from home for weary travelers. Entering off the busy main street through a small alley, you pass through a gateway into a traditional courtyard that blocks out the sounds of the city. The courtyard is an oasis of green life with grass, trees and a wooden deck that gives everything a slight cottage feel. There are a couple picnic tables to sit at while enjoying a cold drink, complete with umbrellas to shield from the sun during the middle of the day.

The Sonam Hostel has a wonderful courtyard for guests to enjoy.

The courtyard is surrounded by guest rooms and the café. The café sits on the first floor and offers decent western-friendly food and drinks. The breakfast at Sonum is particularly worthy of a mention. The décor of the café will be appreciated by those who like the slightly traditional and rustic feel that wood brings.

Sonam offers both dorm style rooms with shared bathing facilities, and private rooms with ensuite baths. All rooms are exceptionally clean and the staff reflects the warmth of Tibetan hospitality. There are washing machines available as well for travelers who have reached that point in their travels!

A single bed at Sonam

Sonam hostel is located away from the madness of Lhasa’s tourist core, but close enough to walk to the Potala Palace within 15 minutes. Also, within a few minute walk of the hostel you can reach the quiet banks of the Kyichu River for a walk through the manicured gardens along its banks. It is approximately a five to seven minute taxi ride to the Barkhor area.

If you have a chance to visit Lhasa, you will find your Tibetan home if you stay at Sonam Hostel.

Contact info:

地址：西藏拉萨市德吉南路11号

电话： +86 (0) 891-6927969

Address: 11 South De Ji Road, Lhasa, Tibet

Phone: +86 (0) 891-6927969

June 23, 2016
Metok Karpo Restaurant

Metok Karpo is a gem of a restaurant located near Barkor in central Lhasa. Though it is hidden away in a narrow alley beside the Snowlands restaurant, it is well worth the effort to track it down. The low doorway is on your right hand side if you are walking from the main street, and it is usually full of mostly local clientele due to the appeal of the authentic flavors of the nomadic cooks! Your presence will attract some friendly smiles so be sure to smile in return!
The entrance to Metok Karpo Restaurant.

The restaurant was founded by young Tibetan nomadic lady Thupten Choemo in 2008. She is a single mother with a daughter. While sending kids to school in Lhasa is free, there are some expenses for her daughter because they are from nomadic area. Choemo wants her daughter to get a good education. She has never run a business before in her life, but she is very interested in making Tibetan food. Her religion teaches her that everything one does should be done with one’s best effort, and so this spills over into not just her life, but her food as well. Therefore, Choemo believes that to make good food, you must put your heart and soul into every aspect of the preparation.

Once you step inside you encounter a very funky atmosphere reminiscent of a Spanish grotto. The small interior immediately gives it a family kitchen feel complimented by the warm smiles of Choemo. An English menu is offered for the convenience of foreign travelers, and everything on the menu is always fresh. As the hosts do not speak English (or Chinese for that matter), simply point at the menu items that appeal to your appetite!

Inside the Metok Karpo Restaurant

The menu is not extensive, but is diverse and represents the favorites of the local population. The Lhasa sweet tea brings welcome refreshment after a morning of visiting the sites around Lhasa. Cold beer is also on hand if that is your preferred refreshment. If you enjoy meat, the dishes with yak meat are extremely delicious, but for those who prefer vegetarian, the menu caters to this as well. For dessert there is usually fresh yoghurt available, and it often fits as a perfect way to finish your meal.

In the future, Choemo wants to expand her restaurant, and we wish her all the best as she makes her dream come true. If you find yourself traveling in Lhasa, we recommend you pay a visit to the lovely nomadic lady Choemo for a hearty meal.

Contact Info:

地址：丹杰林路 6-1-14.

电话： 08916326933

Address: Danjieling road No 6-1-14 (Five minutes walking distance to Jokhang temple in Barkor)

Phone: 08916326933

June 22, 2016
Yamdrok Yumtso (Yamdrok Lake)

Yamdrok, Yamdroktso (ཡར་འབྲོག་གཡུ་མཚོ། ), or Yamdrok Yumtso, is a breathtaking lake lying between the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, and the town of Gyantse. Yamdrok Lake is viewable along the old Friendship Highway that links Tibet with Nepal, and is a favorite route for those heading to Everest Base Camp. Sitting at an altitude of 4,441 meters above sea level, the lake is 130 kilometers in length and 70 kilometers in wide at its furthest spot. Yamdrok is the largest inland and freshwater lake on the northern Himalayan range with an average depth of 20 to 40 meters, and the deepest point being 60 meters.
Summer time views of the lake offer green carpeted slopes on the surrounding hills.

Yamdrok Lake has a unique coral shape with numerous streams feeding it from nearby mountains, hence the locals refer to it as Coral Lake. It is also sometimes called Green Jade Lake for its smooth surface similar to the fine jade, and its gorgeous color hues from the reflection of sunlight.

Religious Significance of Yamdrok Lake

Yamdrok Lake is one of the four largest sacred lakes of Tibet along with Lake Lhamo Latso, Lake Manasarovar, and Lake Namtso. According to Tibetans, the lake is considered as the life line of the inhabitants. It is said if the lake dries up, Tibet would become an inhabitable place. The lake is considered to be guarded by the goddess Dorje Gegkyi Tso. Tibetans perform pilgrimage to Yamdrok Lake and circumambulate around the lake in seven days to wash away their sins and earn merit. The lake’s spiritual energies are associated with the Second Buddha, Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. Moreover, Buddhists believe Lake Yamdrok helps them find the reincarnated soul of the Dalai Lama. There is also the famous Samding Monastery headed by a female reincarnation on a peninsula near the lake.

Yamdrok Lake with snow capped mountains in the backround

Natural Habitat in and around Yamdrok Lake

The crystal clear, freshwaters of the Yamdrok Lake and its surroundings are home to fish, migratory birds and flocks of sheep. Yamdrok Yumtso Lake has shoals of freshwater fish named Gymnocypris przewalskii, which swim to the shallow water to lay eggs every summer. The lake is the largest habitat for migratory birds in southern Tibet as well. During the season, the lake bank and its islands are dotted with numerous birds and their offspring. There are no wild animals in the region but local Tibetans can be seen grazing herds of goats, sheep and yaks on the rich summer pastures.

June 21, 2016
Lhasa

Lhasa (ལྷ་ས་) has been considered the capital of the Tibetan peoples since as early as the 7th century. After conquering several surrounding kingdoms and two significant political marriages with Chinese and Nepali princesses, Songtsan Gampo became the first leader of a unified Tibetan Empire. He began construction on a palace which formed the foundation and determined the design of the current Potala Palace. In 641, he built the Jokhang Temple to house a treasured gold statue of Siddartha Guattama dating back to the Buddha’s lifetime.
Pilgrims visit Lhasa from all corners of Tibet to worship at the Jokhang Temple

Modern day Lhasa is interesting in and of itself. Though there is a larger Chinese population in the city than Tibetans these days, they have predominatly settled on the Western side of the city. The Central and Eastern parts of town are where you will find the majority of the Tibetan population and all of the significant cultural sights.

When traveling to Lhasa, there are a few things to remember. Due to it’s location within the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), you will need both a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) and a Chinese Visa to enter Lhasa as a foreign traveler. Once you arrive, especially if you have come by air, it is important to remember that with such a dramatic change in elevation every traveler will experience at least minor discomfort. This includes minor headaches, disturbed sleep, lack of appetite, and sometimes minor dizziness, so take things easy for the first couple of days. The body naturally adjusts within two to three days, although some find themselves fine after the first day, but watch yourself and your traveling companions for elevation related symptoms. While the vast majority of people will be fine after two or three days, in serious cases medical evacuation may be neccessary, so don’t take this too lightly.

Drepung monastery sits on the north side of town with a beautiful view of the Lhasa valley

Lhasa (or Lasa (拉萨) in Mandarin) is home to many cultural relics, including three UNESCO world heritage sites – the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, and Norbulingka (and Summer Palace). The three most popular Gelugpa sect monasteries can all be accessed from Lhasa: Drepung and Sera monasteries sit just outside of the city; Ganden monastery is just over an hour away, so many make a day trip out of it. Sera Monastery is famous for their live debates starting at 3pm Monday to Friday (sometimes Saturday), and many visitors are drawn like a bug to the flame to watch these lively conversations. Barkhor Plaza and Old Town surrounds Jokhang Temple with bustling foot traffic. Souvenir shops, jewelry and clothing stores, and restaurants abound, which makes walking the stone paved alleys around Barkhor Plaza and Old Town a cultural experience in and of itself.

A variety of cuisine can be found in Lhasa, and often all within the same menu. You can enjoy a decent burger and fries while, your companion can choose anything from Nepali set meals to Indian curries or Tibetan momos. The majority of chefs at Lhasa’s best restaurants are Nepali.

Your guide can help you book tickets to visit the Potala Palace, which is a must see. The maze of candle lit rooms on the inside is fascinating, and the park on the backside of the palace is refreshingly beautiful. Take an evening after dinner to stroll in the square, and snap some night photography of the Potala Palace.

The beauty of the Potala Palace rises over Lhasa and is visible from anywhere in the Lhasa valley

Though the ticket price is high (seats start at approximately $60 USD), the live outdoor theater performance of Princess Wencheng is impossible to describe with words or capture with a camera. It has a cast of 800 members, along with live yaks, sheep, and horses all featured on the 150m wide stage. With the mountains south of Lhasa as the backdrop, the show begins at dark, and lasts for an hour and a half.

While visiting Lhasa, many travellers make their way outside of the city to Yamdrok Lake. Yamdrok is a freshwater lake over 72kms long, and it is one of the biggest sacred lakes in Tibet. Being located only 100km south of the city makes it a popular day trip.

For travelers who are interested, the New Year (Losar), Saga Dawa, and Chökor Düchen festivals are three of the biggest yearly festivals celebrated in Lhasa. Particularly the New Year and Saga Dawa festivals see the city splashed with colour, with thousands of pilgrims coming to the holy city from all corners of Tibet.

June 20, 2016
Shigatse (Rikaze)

Also known as Rikaze (日喀则), Shigatse (གཞིས་ཀ་རྩེ་ས་) is the second largest city in Central Tibet. It is a prefectural capital city with a population of over 700,000, and is most famously known for Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery is home to the Panchen Lama, the second highest lama in the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, and best survived the excesses of China’s cultural revolution. It still functions as an active monastic community today. Shigatse is easily accessed by road, rail or air from Lhasa, the provincial capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Tourists typically stop through on their way to Everest Base Camp and Nepal, therefore it is known as the “Gateway to Everest.”
The fastest and most direct way to Shigatse from Lhasa by vehicle is the newer Friendship Hwy (also known as the northern Friendship Hwy) that links Tibet with Nepal. This is a 270km trip that takes 5 hours due to strict speed control. It follows the Yarlung Tsampo river valley for most of the route where the farming lifestyle on the Tibetan plateau can be seen along the way. There is also a popular scenic route along the “old” Friendship Hwy that takes you over the Khamba La pass for a sweeping view of Yamdrok Lake, past the Karola Glacier, and through Gyantse – home of the largest stupa in Tibet. Most travelers will request to take the scenic route on one of the directions when traveling to and from Shigatse. A three hour train ride is an option as well.

Entrance to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.

While in Shigatse, a tour of Tashilhunpo Monastery is essential. For those interested in visiting the various chapels and halls within the monastery grounds it is best to go in the morning before they get locked up for lunch soon after 12:00pm. Photographers be aware that photography fees are collected in each chapel and can be as expensive as RMB 150 per chapel! Travelers can opt to join both the locals and pilgrims from afar to do the lingkhor (“holy path”) around the monastery. There are essentially two routes that can be taken. First, is the path around the immediate monastery grounds that can take up to one hour depending on your pace. There is also a longer route that takes you over to the Shigatze Dzong (fort), destroyed in the 1960s but rebuilt in 2007, which can take up to three hours. The fortress perches over the town and resembles the Potala Palace. Walking the lingkhor, or Kora, is a great way to mix with the locals, get some wonderful photos, and further acclimatize spending a day at 3,800 meters above sea level.

As most cities in China are growing rapidly in modernization, this town is no exception, meaning there are several good hotel options available. The Gesar Hotel, though not as convenient to the city center, has beautiful Tibetan themed rooms, a decent breakfast, and several good restaurants nearby. The Manasarova Hotel is in the city center, also Tibetan themed, but older and getting a little run down.

April 7, 2016
Chomolungma (Mt. Everest)

Also known as Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ། )in Tibetan, (珠穆朗玛峰 in Chinese), the mere mention of the name “Everest” already evokes enough pictures in our imaginations: ice axes, climbing ropes, avalanches, sherpas, basecamps and lots and lots of snow. The tallest point from sea level on planet earth (8,848m) is assisted to its dizzying heights by the craggy edge of the vaulted Tibetan plateau that it rests on. Since Sir Edmund Hilary’s successful summit in 1953, tens of thousands of climbers have attempted to add their names to the list. Some have given their lives trying. There are over 200 corpses on this mountain, and their remains are humbling reminders of the difficulty of the quest.
The approach to the mountain.

Less known facts about Everest are that it sits on the China Nepal border-the north face on the China side (also known as the “Tibet side”) and the south face on the Nepal side. There are two approaches to climbing this mountain, known respectively as the “South Col Route” and the “North Col Route.” There are two “Everest Base Camps,” on each respective side of the mountain. In fact, there are more than that at different elevations on the climb to the summit. However, tourists without a climbing permit can only visit the lowest Base Camp on either side. Which camp you plan to visit depends on which country you are in: China or Nepal. There is no border crossing at Mt. Everest, although there used to be a border crossing at Dram (Zhangmu) about an eight-hour drive to the West (on the China Tibet side). However, since the Nepal earthquakes in 2015, that border has been closed and another in the Gyirong Valley (even farther west) has been opened in its stead.

Windhorses (prayer flags) flap in the wind outside of the base camp.

The mountain is named in English after Sir George Everest who was the Surveyor General of India in the early 1800s. The original Tibetan name of the mountain, Mount Qomolangma, means “Holy Mother.” The Chinese also refer to the mountain as 圣母峰－ Shengmufeng (“Holy Mother Peak”). One Chinese perspective is that the mountain should not be referred to as “Everest” as that name was prescribed by foreign English geological surveyors in the late 19th century, but should rather be referred to internationally as Qomolangma. The Chinese transliteration of Qomolangma, 珠穆朗玛峰, has been established since the early 18th century.

Mt. Everest by night.

As of early 2015, there is a paved road from New Tingri to Everest Basecamp on the China (Tibet) side. The North Face of Everest arguably offers the most stunning views of the mountain. Many consider the north side views of Everest as the best. The ease of access on the China side has attracted much more tourism, though numbers of tourists are still lower on average than the Nepal side. On the north side, Chinese tourists are the vast majoriy. On the south side, foreign tourists outnumber local Nepalese.

Inside a tent hotel at Everest.

April 7, 2016
Tsetang ( Zedang)

Nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yarlung Tsampo River basin, Tsetang (རྩེད་ཐང་།) was the perfect place to start a new civilization. Referred to as Zedang in Chinese (泽当), Tibetans consider this quaint city the birthplace of their people. According to legend, the union of an ogress and a monkey led to the first Tibetan people. Regardless of how you believe the first Tibetans got to the Yarlung Tsangbo River valley basin, history does attest to this region being the cradle of the earliest Tibetan civilizations on the Qinghai Tibet Plateau. The Tibetan peoples spread out from Zedang over time, venturing to less fertile, harsher areas. The famed first emperor of the entire Tibetan plateau (33rd king), Songtsan Gampo and his father hail from this area.
Zedang is nestled in one of the most fertile regions of the Yearling River basin.

Visiting Zedang

As the fourth largest town in Tibet, Tsetang city is a bustling town with modern streets. It is the capital city of Shannan Prefecture with nearly 16,000 residents and governs 13 other counties in the region. There is little about the town itself that would merit a visit, but the surrounding area is full of history and beauty. Accommodation options are limited in this remote town, but the Tsetang Hotel offers surprising comfort with decent wifi and friendly staff. Breakfast is passable but certainly not memorable, while other meals would be best enjoyed somewhere else in town.

Around Tsetang

Samye monastery is known as the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and is only 30 km from Tsetang. It is a must see. In closer proximity (9km) is Yumbulagang, the first Tibetan palace for the first king of Tibet from the second century BCE. Songtsan Gampo used this as a summer palace in the seventh century CE and it was converted into a Gelugpa sect monastery in the 16th century CE. Yumbulagang is considered the oldest known dwelling in Tibet and its location combined with the style of construction makes it feel more like a fortress than a palace. The easy climb up the winding stairs is well worth the view of the valley from the top and visitors are permitted to enter the small chapel of this ancient palace turned monastery.

Samye Monastery Tsetang

South of Tsetang lies the vast Himalaya Mountain Range that stretches across the southern border of the Tibetan plateau, and to the north of town are the Nyanchen Tanggula mountains. It is in between these two ranges that the Yarlung Tsampo river runs and the valley becomes the widest and most fertile in the Tsetang area. The city sits on the south bank of the river. A popular three day trek in the area begins from Ganden Monastery outside Lhasa and heads south over the Shugu La and Chitu La passes before arriving at Samye Monastery (alternatively you can do it the other direction of course). From there you can hire a local vehicle to take you the 30km to Tsetang.

Transportation

It is a three and a half hour drive (160km) from Lhasa to Tsetang. The trip involves retracing the route to the Lhasa Gonggar Airport, before following the Yarlung Tsampo River as it flows east to Tsetang. Due to its proximity to the airport, some travelers choose to visit Tsetang before going to Lhasa. Besides avoiding retracing your steps after going to Lhasa, the big benefit to visiting Tsetang first is the lower elevation (the town sits at 3100m, more than 500m lower than Lhasa) which helps travelers adjust more naturally to the high elevation of the Tibetan plateau, especially on the first night.

April 1, 2016
Peiku Tso

Imagine you are a flea on the head of a king with a crown of peaks all around you. The stretch of road on the way to Peiku Tso is something like that. The king’s forehead is facing south with the crown jewel set upon the tallest point – Shisapangma – the 8,013 meter point that is the highest mountain completely within China. The plain that forms the valley between these majestic points is arid and cracked from the baking sun. Nearly 20 kilometers away you begin to see an almost fluorescent blue line on the horizon in the west. It wisps and worms in the heat waves. It is so blue, you think perhaps it is a mirage. It makes the clean deep blue sky look gray in comparison. The road takes you within a kilometer at its nearest point to the lake. The wind nearly blows your hat off as you approach the water and you see what seems to be the white crash of waves on the shoreline. But when you arrive, you are amazed to find there are no waves – in fact, hardly any ripples on the water. And the white strip you saw from a distance is actually a five meter wide strip of dried salt all along the shore. At eye level the lake seems pretty ordinary and you realize it had pulled some mirage-like tricks on you from a distance. The neon turquoise line you saw from a distance no longer appears as stark. But the setting of this jewel among these snowy gods and cotton ball clouds is priceless.

Lake Peiku Tso from a distance.

The 45 minute drive from the Friendship Highway to Peiku Tso is at least half the joy of this journey. Enjoy snapping pics from your vehicle at 80 km per hour. Make sure you have plenty of space on your memory card! You may also enjoy the view of Peiku Tso from the Shisapangma Basecamp. At around 5,800 meters, it is about a two hour drive from the ticket entrance of the road. From there you can enjoy a more comprehensive view of Peiku Tso’s beauty and shape.

March 14, 2016
Drepung Monastery

Historically, the most significant monastery in Tibetan Buddhism, Drepung Monastery(འབྲས་སྤུངས་དགོན་པ།) used to be the seat of political and religious power in Tibet (before the Potala Palace was built). This significance came in part due to its location just outside of Lhasa, and in part due to it being the primary seat of the Gelugpa sect. The Gelugpa sect practices celibacy, and an aesthetic lifestyle approach to breaking “attachment” with the world. Every Dalai Lama has been of this sect, and it is also known as the “Yellow Hat Sect.”
Drepung was founded in 1416 by a monk by the name of Jamyang Chöje, who was a disciple of Tsongkhapa (a reformer and the founder of the Gelugpa sect). Jamyang Chöje was a very charismatic monk, and within one year of completing the monastery, Drepung already had over 2000 monks living there. At its peak, Drepung Monastery used to be home to over 15,000 monks and was one of the most prestigious Buddhist institutions in the land. Now, there is a meager 300 monks living in Drepung and its sheer size makes the place feel almost like a ghost town.

Today the monastery holds seven colleges – Gomang, Loseling, Deyang, Shagkor, Gyelwa, Tosamling, Dulwa, and Ngagpa – and each teach different aspects of Tibetan Buddhism.

Visiting Drepung Monastery

Approximately 8kms west of Central Lhasa, and placed high on a steep mountainside, travellers will find Drepung Monastery. The alleyways are walled and narrow, and feel labyrinthine. The main meeting hall is massive and it is said it can fit up to 7,000 monks at a time. It is the largest meeting hall I have ever seen in a monastery. Adjacent to it is the kitchen, which is also said to be the largest kitchen in Tibet. It is easy to believe as the pots they use for cooking look like small swimming pools … for elephants.

Surrounding the monastery one will see a great number of residences with white roofs. Due to it’s location on Mount Gephel, and the number of white roofs that were required to house 15,000 monks, Drepung garnered the name of “rice heap” monastery.

Everywhere you look in Drepung is an opportunity for a photo, so keep your finger on the trigger. Be aware though about taking photos inside the temple areas and meeting halls. Usually there is a 20 to 50 yuan charge for photography inside these rooms.

March 14, 2016
Samye Monastery

History of Samye Monastery

Two hours drive southeast of Lhasa sits Samye Monastery(བསམ་ཡས་དགོན་པ།) – the oldest Buddhist training institution in Tibet, established in the lifetime of Padmasambhava in the eight century. The temple monastery compound is enclosed by a circular brick wall. It is said that from above, the circular wall and its contents resemble a Mandala – a Hindu and Buddhist representation of the universe. Mandalas are typically balanced uniformly with circle, square and triangle shapes throughout. Legend has it that Samye was constructed as a joint partnership between humans and demons – humans worked on it through the day and demons worked through the night.

Visiting Samye

Travelers can purchase an entrance ticket and enjoy access to the temple. There are three main levels to the temple in the center. The main level is stylistically Tibetan; the second level has a Chinese influence; and the third level, Indian. Though Samye Monastery now belongs to the majority Gelugpa sect, it still leans heavily toward its Nyingma sect origins, which is Tantric in nature. All around the typical cast of idols, there are offerings of tsampa and butter in overtly phallic molds. There are four identical stupas, apart from their color, outside the four corners of the temple. If you enjoy photography, a decent photo can be got of the whole compound from a hill nearby.

There is a convenience store oddly placed within the temple grounds. Surprisingly, the store has many import foods and drinks that are difficult to find in other areas in China. If you’re thirsting for a vanilla Coke, you have come to the right place!

Transportation

Visiting Samye is a day trip from either Lhasa or nearby Tsedang. Some people prefer to head directly to Tsedang after arriving at Lhasa Gonggar Airport and begin their trip by visiting the cradle of Tibet’s civilization (including Samye). As with travel throughout all of Central Tibet, you must pre-arrange transportation through the travel company that arranged your Tibet Travel Permit (TTP).

March 14, 2016
Ganden Monastery

Located 50 km northeast of Lhasa, Ganden Monastery (དགའ་ལྡན་དགོན་པ།)is a relatively quick trip outside of Lhasa for visitors who wish to see the monastery, and enjoy the beautiful view of the valley below. Ganden Monastery is the biggest of the Gelugpa Monasteries, and was the first founded in the sect.
Tsongkhapa was the founder of the Gelugpa sect (also known as Geluk), and through his work, he is revered as a reformer of Tibetan Buddhism. With the support of the local authorities and the people, Tsongkhapa founded Ganden Monastery in the 15 century. In order to enlarge the influence of the Gelugpa sect, and to help Tibetan Buddhism with the chaotic and disordered situation, Tsongkhapa performed the first Monlam Prayer Festival in Lhasa. This festival gathered more than 10,000 local people, monks, and nuns to pray, and even today the Gelugpa sect still keeps the tradition of the Monlam Festival alive. Starting after the Tibetan New Year, the festival lasts for 15 days and many come together around the community to perform rituals, pronounce blessings, and of course, to pray.

Kedrub Je and Gyatsab Je were the most influential of Tsonkhapa’ students, and when Tsonkhapa passed away in 1411, the abbotship of the monastery passed to these two students. These students were also the next in line to hold the post that came to be known as the Ganden Tripa – a position earned through merit, and is the title given to the leader of the Gelugpa sect. Thus, the Ganden Tripa transmission system was established, and today over 100 scholars have held the position.

Currently there are a couple hundred monks living in the Ganden Monastery, and guests are welcome to watch and observe as monks debate, chant their prayers, and go about their daily life. Some visitors take a few minutes to meditate and pray themselves, although there is no expectation placed on guests to do so if they do not feel comfortable. As with any monastery, the primary expectation is that guests would be respectful in their observation, and that they would not be disruptive of those who are there to worship.

March 14, 2016
Kang Rinpoche (Mt. Kailash)

Mt. Kailash (Kang Rinpoche/གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ) in Western Tibet (TAR) is one of the most venerated religious sites in the world. Four separate religions consider the mountain holy, so it is no surprise that it is pilgrimaged by thousands each year. Conceivably, that number would most likely be greater if it weren’t so difficult to obtain permits to the area. Kailash is viewed by many in the Hindu-Buddhist worldview as the center of the world. Theories regarding its supernatural power abound, with some even claiming it is a pyramid that was built by aliens. Regardless of your personal belief, there are some very interesting facts about the mountain, many of which have only served to add to the various religious beliefs.
Kailash Trekkers at the foot of the mountain.

Mt. Kailash: The Holiest Mountain

Buddhism

Mt. Kailash is believed to be the abode of Demchok and Dorje Phagmo. Demchok is one of the Buddhist gods, and is also known as Samvara. Dorje Phagmo is the highest female reincarnation, and the third highest person ranking in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama.

No one has ever climbed Kailash, except the legendary Mila Repa (a sage), who apparently did battle with the forces of darkness on top of the mountain and won a victory for Tibetan Buddhism (see Bon below for the parallel).

Of note for Buddhists is the natural shape on the south face of the mountain. Also called, “the Swastika mountain”, the South face appears to have a natural swastika running from top to bottom and from side to side. This swastika is the result of a vertical cleft running down the center of the rock face, combined with a layer of horizontal strata that appears to complete the symbol. The swastika is used to depict spiritual strength in Buddhism, thus only elevating the significance of this holy mountain.

Hinduism

Hindus have come to believe that Kailash is the mountain spoken of in their epic tales: Mt. Meru – home of the gods. As such, Kailash is believed to be the residing place of Shiva, the god of destruction, and his consort Pirvati. For Hindus, making the difficult pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash and viewing the darshan (divine view) of Shiva’s dwelling place is said to attain release from the clutches of ignorance and delusion.

Jainism

Mount Kailash is known by the Jains of India as Astapada. It is believed that this mountain was the place where the first of their saints (tirthankara) – one by the name of Rishaba – entered Nirvana.

Bon (Ancient Tibetan Religion)

To the Bon-po believers, the mountain is called Tise, and is held as the seat of the sky goddess Sipaimen. It is also said to be here that the Buddhist sage Mila Repa (as previously mentioned), battled the Bon shaman Naro Bon-chung to displace Bon as the primary religion of Tibet. This battle of sorcery between the two religions is said to have taken place during the 12th century.

Kailash’s Natural Significance

However you choose to regard the religious significance of this peak, you cannot argue with its natural beauty, and geographical significance. Mt. Kailash has four faces perpendicular to each other, and each face aligns perfectly with the four cardinal directions. Four great rivers originate from this mountain and flow into the Indian subcontinent (Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra, and the Karnali which feeds into the Ganges), and this area is also key to the drainage system of the Tibetan plateau. Tibetan Buddhists call the mountain Kang Rimpoche, the ‘Precious One of Glacial Snow’, as the peak is snowcapped year-round.

Many travelers choose to trek around the base of Mt. Kailash and join the many pilgrims walking the kora around the mountain. The kora typically takes 3 days to complete (although it can be more) with Buddhists going clockwise, and Bon adherents counter-clockwise. Accommodation along the kora can be found in semi-permanent seasonal tents provided by local entrepreneurs making a living from both foreigners and local pilgrims alike. While hiking around the mountain is allowed, summiting the mountain is not. Permission has only been granted on a few occasions in history, none of which were successful in summiting. As could be expected, the sacredness of this mountain to the local Tibetan community means that there is significant resistance to climbers attempting to reach the summit. For the sake of peace, the Chinese Government maintains the mountain is off limits to climbers.

March 14, 2016
Sera Monastery

Sera Monastery (སེ་ར་དགོན་པ།) is one of the most beautiful monastery compounds you will see in Tibet, and one of Lhasa’s several great religious institutes. Built on the gentle slope of a mountain overlooking Lhasa, its white stone roads and walkways feel almost Mediterranean. The roads are lined with beautiful trees and the debating courtyard looks like a private garden for kings. It appears cleaner and better maintained than most of the other monasteries. As you walk into the main meeting hall, look to your left before you enter the door. On the wall is the Tibetan Buddhist Circle of Life. Make sure your tour guide explains to you all of the parts of the image, as it will help you better understand the Tibetan worldview. If you have time, also stop by the bookstore, which has all of the Buddhist scriptures in paperback form, including some volumes in English.
Entrance to the main meeting hall at Sera Monastery.

Sera Monk Debates

Don’t linger too long at the bookstore and miss the main attraction at Sera Monastery: the debates. Between 3 and 5 pm (Mon-Fri), young monks can be found scattered in groups of two to four all throughout the courtyard practicing their philosophy through debating one another. It is an interesting form of debate, as the speaker makes each of his points with his whole body. The thrust of his argument climaxing with raised voice and an enthusiastic clap of the hands downward toward his “opponent.” Some of them add their own flavor to the gesture, which makes things quite entertaining. Some of the monks can’t keep from laughing, and you won’t either!

About Sera Monastery

Sera Monastery is part of the Gelgupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe. Sakya Yeshe was a disciple of Tsongkhapa, a revered reformer of Tibetan Buddhism, and the founder of the Gelgupa sect.

The monastery sits in a northern suburb of Lhasa at the base of Pubuchok Mountain (or Tatipu Hill). The monastery is still said to include 28 acres, or 11 hectares, of land. At it’s prime, Sera Monastery held 5 separate colleges of instruction and 5000 monks, but the monastery today is significantly smaller in size. Unlike a lot of others, this monastery managed to escape complete destruction during the Cultural Revolution, primarily losing some of the buildings related to the smaller of its five colleges. As a result, Sera has undergone restorations, and guests today can still visit the three remaining functioning educational institutes.

Sera Me College

This college was founded with the monastery. It is known for teaching the fundamental precepts of Tibetan Buddhism.

Sera Ngagpa College

This is also one of the oldest structures at Sera Monastery. The college itself specializes in Tantric studies.

Sera Je College

Sera Je teaches itinerant monks from outside of the TAR, and is the largest of the three functioning educational institutes at the monastery.

March 14, 2016